240zip Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I did a search and it seems many people are not using heat shields. Seems the ideal scenario would be to use a cold air box (like JDM OEM set-ups) but these simply don't exist in the US (except perhaps in TonyD's basement cache of parts). It would be nice is someone had a CAD template of a nice heat shield they'd be willing to share. Who makes heat shields for the triple carb set-ups? Any recommendations on what works? My set-up has ceramic coated unwrapped headers and Weber 42DCOE's with K&N filters. Is there a preference for material choice? Seems many JDM examples are made of stainless steel. I recall once I saw a piece about someone who made a heat shield that used some space-age material that was riveted to metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montezuma Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 I got to JDM examples at home, I will take some photos of them later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inZane 240 Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Here's one I've thought about purchasing that's available via ZCCJDM: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt81970/pd1277652/HEAT_SHIELD__DRIP_PAN__WEBER_SOLEX_MIKUNI_ I think it's made by Kamenari ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I don't think it's made by Kamenari. Their heatshield looks like this ... I saw one from the same site, a JDM one. But the link to it has been pulled. It used to cost around $225. I personally liked the design. If I were to fabricate one, it would be the 'L' design. The one you're talking about is rather simple and would be as effective as the Kamenari one pictured on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montezuma Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Those are the two I have.....so no picture necessary. I think the heat shield is a necessary evil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I made mine in my vise from a piece of galvanized sheet metal from Home Depot. Tin snips and a hammer are all you need. I made a cardboard template and then cut it out of metal. The end near the head is shaped and flared to fit snugly around the header pipes. I glued foil backed fiberglass mat to the under side. It works great at keeping the carbs very cool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 The header blanket MSA sells is very effective containing the heat given off by the headers. There is more than enough in the kit for a total blanket of the headers, with plenty left over for auxilliary application to other components like a heat shield for the brakes, switches and lines, etc... I was really suprised by how well it actually worked, easily put right against the head so everything is covered. As for the box, TWM was making one out of FRP. There are aluminum hand-fabbed pieces, the mind is the only limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zredbaron Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Fantastic thread idea. Here's an honorable mention, a cheap and easy idea for those that don't want it visible and want a bolt-on that "helps." https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5379 Here's my outgoing model which used asbestos on the underside... which really was space age material back when the race to the moon was still on! Haha. 240zip, I think I saw the same heat shield. Was it honeycombed material? Anyways, as per the pic, this was clearly back before I didn't know that header wraps were such a bad idea! It was crudely attached by tightening nuts onto all-thread rods curved behind the headers, and also a coated clothes hangar as a not-so-safe "safety wire." For my next iteration, I'm going to take the Kameari image and fabricate a template to design a shield and also a cold air box as 240zip mentioned. I'll take my sheet metal fabrication and have a professional fabricator make me a pretty one with pretty welds. (I'm hoping for a single piece, two if necessary.) As for heat insulation.... I'm looking into ceramic coating the outside of my intake manifold and the heat shield in entirety. I'll likely repaint the top half of the shield since the ceramic coating is a dirt sponge. (Swain White Lightning is my personal recommendation for ceramic coatings.)As with many of us, aesthetics are a top consideration. It's hard to dress up race motor that likes to play car show from time to time... Edited March 17, 2015 by zredbaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zredbaron Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) While we're on the topic of air box and visual appeal, if I do go the fabricated airbox route, then I will be getting rid of the TWM fiberglass box. It's a good box, but with my setup it rubs against the shock tower (Canon intake manifold's runners are longer than that of TWM) and I've had to patch the fiberglass internally more than once due to wear. After 15 years and several engine rebuilds, mine is visually shot as well from a show perspective. I don't really consider it worth the price of a new one ($400). Tony D, speaking of aesthetics, how did the blanket look over time? (Though I doubt I would want to hide my headers.)Hopefully this is contributing to the post rather than hijacking it! Edited March 17, 2015 by zredbaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryant67 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Mine at the moment is horrendously ugly, but I am working on something similar, but as a single sheet. As it stands, it's your basic kameari/zccjdm style one, with heat wrap on the underside, and an extra layer of aluminum attached with another layer of heat wrap again. the lower layer extends the heat shield coverage from where the intake manifold bolts to the head, to just beyond the front of the trumpets. The issue I have with most heat shields is that they barely cover the carbs, and nothing beyond that. Heat must bleed in from around, no? Or is going larger than just the carbs excessive precaution with no actual gain in heat protection? What's the ideal mounting point for these things? Generally most seem to go with bolting where the carbs attach to the intake manifold, but some use the extra bolts on the side of Mikunis, such as Datsun Spirit's (https://datsunspirit.com/products-page-2/performance/triple-carburetor-heat-shield/). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) While we're on the topic of air box and visual appeal, if I do go the fabricated airbox route, then I will be getting rid of the TWM fiberglass box. It's a good box, but with my setup it rubs against the shock tower (Canon intake manifold's runners are longer than that of TWM) and I've had to patch the fiberglass internally more than once due to wear. After 15 years and several engine rebuilds, mine is visually shot as well from a show perspective. I don't really consider it worth the price of a new one ($400). Hi Mark, As an alternative to the TWM one, there is this one from England. I don't think you have to pay tax, but there is shipping and customs. It should be under $300 delivered though and it is better quality than the TWM. It is essentially a copy - just made better. It will still rub the shock tower unless you do something different elsewhere in the induction set up. Edited March 22, 2015 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zredbaron Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Wow, that's way better, I agree Garrett! Good find.By the way I decided to take the "easy" route for heat as an intermediate. I ordered three of the underside steel shields from Pegasus racing (above) and I'm going to send them to Swain and get them ceramic coated with the same material I put on my headers. Not sure if I'll like it or how much it will help, but I'm going to give it a shot and call it good enough for the time being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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