Jump to content
HybridZ

How do I pull the L28ET if my car does not have the brackets?


dpuma8

Recommended Posts

I am ready to pull my engine this weekend but I am missing the front and rear bracket on the engine.

 

 

So how can I pull this engine with an engine crane safely and easily? Does anyone have a picture of the bracket in the back of the engine? I have the Haynes manual and it doesn't show me any pictures

Edited by dpuma8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They attached a metal loop on the rear most exhaust stud.

 

Personally I wrap the engine with a 25' tow strap to form a cradle and pull it. I have never had a problem doing it this way. It has been my prefered installation method as well when I dont want to scratch new block paint. There is the possibility of slipping, but I always use common sense with where I am rolling the engine hoist, how tight I wrap the engine, and where exactly I run the tow strap through to ensure it wont go anywhere even if the engine does shifts in the home-made cradle.

 

Im not one for stressing those exhaust studs any more than needed since they already get heated, cooled, and stretched way to much in my opinion. 10mm studs with slightly softer grade material should have been used... Nissan didnt get that one right until about 1998-2000 or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on the size of the chain and links your using, take off the valve cover and try removing a couple of headbolts and then put the bolts through the links and reinstall. Or try removing one of the upper trans bolts and do the same, find one on the front/side of the engine and do the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do I read this right that you have already removed the head?

 

I have a lifting chain with quick-links on the end. The quick links attach to two 1/4 thick, 1X3 pieces of strap steel (you can get the strap steel at Home Depot, etc) with two holes drilled in them---one around 3/8" the other slightly larger. The quick link attaches through the 3/8" hole. The other hole can be bolted to just about anything on the head (EGR VALVE STUD, intake manifold bolt...) If the head is removed, you can take a standard bolt and screw it into an open head-bolt hole and use this to lift the engine.

 

Using the chain links is not wise, the bolts can be stressed, they don't clamp straight, and can break. A small piece of strap attached with quick links will let you bolt to just about anything.

 

Using quick links allows me to swap to a flat 'hook' that will also hook into the stock lifting sling points if they are on there. Or use one hook on an existing sling point, and a flat one to bolt to the EGR, intake bolt, etc...

 

It's a very versatile bit of equipment to have in the tool box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

As Tony said just get a bolt and bolt it to the block. Personally I loop the chain so the bolt goes through 2 links with a washer or washers on the bolt and tighten till there is no slack in the chain. I dont see the need for strap as I use this method on short block chevy big big blocks all the time at work with no problems accept maybe bending the washer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always had a leveler handy and just run the brackets through head bolts. I've never had an issue. I'd imagine those bolts are one of the strongest points of the engine, and would much rather use them than the exhaust studs to life the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...