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Heat from LS1 in S30 engine bay


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Hi guys, I've got an LS1 in my 240Z and being summer over here where it gets hot, I have noticed the radiant heat coming through the firewall. I was able to remove the LH side headers (non drivers side for me in Australia) and wrap them in fibreglass heat wrap but not the RH side. There was a huge difference between the heat coming through where the passenger could feel it all coming into their side from the 'non-wrapped' header side. I have since been able to remove the LH side header by jacking the engine off its mounts and wrap that one as well but I'd like to hear how you guys have overcome similar heat issues after cramming a big engine in that little space. I heard a story where someone hole-sawed lots of holes to let engine bay air into the section below the windsheild where the wiper motor sits to get sucked out by air passing over the existing vents.

 

cheers

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I would say either a louvered hood or one of the ones with vents should help. Good sound deadening/insulation on the firewall, of course. Haven't heard of anyone doing the hole saw idea, but that may make a marginal difference but would make it look ugly. Some may or may not care about that. ;)

Edited by Savage42
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Hi guys, I've got an LS1 in my 240Z and being summer over here where it gets hot, I have noticed the radiant heat coming through the firewall. I was able to remove the LH side headers (non drivers side for me in Australia) and wrap them in fibreglass heat wrap but not the RH side. There was a huge difference between the heat coming through where the passenger could feel it all coming into their side from the 'non-wrapped' header side. I have since been able to remove the LH side header by jacking the engine off its mounts and wrap that one as well but I'd like to hear how you guys have overcome similar heat issues after cramming a big engine in that little space. I heard a story where someone hole-sawed lots of holes to let engine bay air into the section below the windsheild where the wiper motor sits to get sucked out by air passing over the existing vents.

The cowl is a high pressure area, so by cutting holes in it you'd get air coming into it from the engine compartment, you'd probably just push outside air into the engine compartment. Sounds like coating or wrapping the pipes would be the best solution.

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Proper insulation of the firewall, tranny tunnel, and floor is key. Wrapping the exhaust manifolds or headers will help some too.

 

The LS1 isn't an abnormally hot running engine, with the average operating temperature being between 180 and 210 degrees. Also, the motor doesn't sit any closer to the firewall on our cars then it does on the Camaro or Firebird... It's all about insulating that cabin. Get on it!

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Proper insulation of the firewall, tranny tunnel, and floor is key. Wrapping the exhaust manifolds or headers will help some too.

 

The LS1 isn't an abnormally hot running engine, with the average operating temperature being between 180 and 210 degrees. Also, the motor doesn't sit any closer to the firewall on our cars then it does on the Camaro or Firebird... It's all about insulating that cabin. Get on it!

 

Yes insulation is a good point. I do have some old stuff under my carpet but it is very thin. I will replace that with some thicker carpet underlay. The engine doesn't really run hot, i've set the thermo's to kick in at 190-200 deg F and they only turn on after it sits for a while at the lights or in traffic.

 

Since I've wrapped the headers I guess the heat is just transfered further along the exhaust so more heat will come through the floor now than the firewall :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

 

Is there any data on the differences of wrapping the headers versus having them ceramic coated? Is there any benefit to having them ceramic coated AND wrapping them?

 

I have a set of the JTR shorty headers - they're currently painted silver but I'm sure it won't last (I will be starting it up for the first time very shortly)

 

How does the wrapping effect the longevity of the headers?

 

I'm thinking about just painting them real good with a high heat paint and wrapping them unless that's not a good idea...

 

I also want to keep the radiant heat out of the passenger compartment, but if I can save the money on the ceramic coating and still get similar longevity by simply wrapping them that may be an ok trade off

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Ceramic coating would be the best option but I went with the wrap which was cheaper. It apparently helps your headers to rust a little quicker because it traps moisture but I think that is if you don't use it much and let it sit.

 

I ended up using some thermal insulation that goes inside dry walls and cut that out and layed it down under the carpet in the foot wells and trans tunnel and it worked sweet. The stuff is like a plastic for sale sign or election campain sign but not as rigid and with foil coating on both sides.

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  • 2 months later...

A friend of mine has a daily driver 77 280 with a 350. We have being trying to cure the extra hot firewall issues for a few years now.

 

What works the best is to replace the stock hood vents with MSA scoops. But turn the scoop openings to the front so cool air will be blown into the engine compartment. This made a huge difference in the temperature of the floor boards and firewall.

 

The scoops are designed to have the opening facing the window, but they didn't have any cooling effects on the firewall in that position. But lucky they are reversible.

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