yellowoctupus Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 FYI, just found another pile of old reciepts as I was cleaning, the coolant temp adapter kit was P/N EQU9851, it came with four adapters I think, and it ran me $10 at O'Reilly's auto parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 So, I went to the scrap yard yesterday looking for some aluminum and I just had to weigh the car across their scales. Front: 1430# Rear: 1520# Total: 2950# This was with 1/4-1/2 tank of fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 (edited) After who knows how many miles on my Z conversion (10k?), I finally tore apart the speedometer (1994 T-Bird) to see why the odometer didn't work, and it turns out all the little gears were broken. Pretty cool how it does work though. There's a little motor that 'pulses' once a second or so (at 27mph) and turns the whole mechanism a little tiny bit every pulse. (Maybe a stepper motor?) Thankfully it's separate from the speedometer motor, so the speedo does still work. FORD--->Speedometer and Tachometer checking/ calibration site: http://www.accutach.com/Documents/TestingTachSpeedoR1.pdf Took me about an hour to find that old link via google today. BUT, the testing procedure for speedometers worked like a charm. I happened to have a regulated 12v supply (use an old computer power supply if you don't have a formal unit) and a 15VAC wall transformer out of a 'jump start pack'. I was going to take pictures for a 'how to' but these guys did a great job of that already: http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/Instructions/Speedo%20-%20Odo%20Repair%20Inst..htm Edited March 10, 2013 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) So, after about two dozen times taking the odometer drive all apart, and back together etc I finally got it working. Took three tachs at the junkyard before I found one with good gears. Guess this isn't such a rare failure, eh? One of the gears I got looks like it's already been replaced too. Beats the heck out of me paying for repops! The cheapest I could find was $43 for the set. Neither one is bigger than a nickle. Crazy. I also took about a day to spruce my gauges up, fixing the 'gaps' left at the bottom, and getting the turn signal lights working with the stock Datsun arrows and getting a check engine and hi beam light on. They look really good in the car, down in the pods you can't even tell there's seams from things being pieced together. This picture is with flash so you can see what I did to get things 'right': I had my haz lights on to get this one. Should have turned on the hi beams and ignition for the other two, but that's ok. T Bird Gauge Cluster, Mark VIII should also work. Make sure to pick one that has the odometer and trip on the same gauge face. Mustangs have them split and they run together on a long rod IIRC. Kinda weird, and not good for splitting into separate pods. Backside shots. I liked the way the gauge pod worked out using the deeper pod, and cutting the hole in the back, but the light bulb placement seems to be better on the speedometer. (brighter at night) maybe some higher output bulbs would help too. These light mounts were a pain, but as mentioned before, they were positioned better for the Ford gauges. Maybe just moving the bulbs around on the other pod would help too. They work nice and smooth, better than most aftermarket gauges I've dealt with. Not as 'quick responding' but also not jumpy. VDO inner mechanisms/ electronics. Edited April 14, 2019 by yellowoctupus added pictures, removed dead links... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Just finished up the ultimate brake upgrade-- hydroboost! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111776-hydrobooster-application/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 (edited) Minor update, been driving the car between 140-80mi/day depending on my mood, and I'm getting 24+mpg. Might have to find some bigger tires/different rear end gears to get some better mileage. Not bad for a V8, but I think it can be a bit better ~27? So, this is my radio control; it has an input (on top) output (going to the black wire, then right to the amp) and now a volume knob, so you don't have to fish around for the Mp3 player, walkman whatever that's the input to adjust the volume. The switch is the power switch to the amp so it's not just ON when you don't want to be jammin' : Edited July 23, 2017 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsmark Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Your project is awesome and has really been a help with my 4.6 DOHC/T45 in a 260 project. Do you have any pics of how you got the tach and speedo to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 (edited) Cool another convert! Where are you on your swap? You realize that now YOU have to start putting up pics too The gauges took me too long to put in because I'm kinda anal. I trimmed down a bit of the speedo/tach pod to get things right, and they work pretty good now. I think I could have used two speedo pods and then the back lights would have been easier to work with, but I didn't want to chop up too many sets of gauges. Seeing how little they cost me, it really wouldn't matter, but oh well. They do work pretty well. Edited July 23, 2017 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsmark Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Cool another convert! Where are you on your swap? You realize that now YOU have to start putting up pics too The gauges took me too long to put in because I'm kinda anal. I trimmed down a bit of the speedo/tach pod to get things right, and they work pretty good now. I think I could have used two speedo pods and then the back lights would have been easier to work with, but I didn't want to chop up too many sets of gauges. Seeing how little they cost me, it really wouldn't matter, but oh well. They do work pretty well. I'm using a 95 mark viii motor with a 96-98 cobra intake, IMRC runners, cobra exhaust manifolds and a cobra T45. I've got the engine/ tranny in the car under its own weight. Everything is welded and shouldn't need to come back out for a while. Now I'm in the middle of all the little BS small tasks that waste your whole day. I've got the clutch master/ slave stuff pretty much done(used a bunch of your ideas). I think the exhaust is the next project to tackle then it's the wiring. This is my dads account because I gave up trying to get mine validated after about 10 attempts so the project is being documented on Ratsun.net pretty in depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Most excellent work so far. I'm guessing this is your write-up: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54796-1974-260z-46dohc/ Couple of things to note, the Mark 8 headers are nice because you can 'work' (cut/weld) them for better exit angles to get around frame rails, steering and what not. Wish I had that option when I dealt with exhaust and my stupid cast manifolds. Make sure you have the master cylinder you need for that stroke. I know the wilwood slave only comes in one size; I had to run a 1" master cylinder to get the full stroke out of the slave after I put in a new clutch. A 3/4" MC would probably work with a worn clutch though, so be careful (especially if you can still return the 3/4" one...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsmark Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Most excellent work so far. I'm guessing this is your write-up: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54796-1974-260z-46dohc/ Couple of things to note, the Mark 8 headers are nice because you can 'work' (cut/weld) them for better exit angles to get around frame rails, steering and what not. Wish I had that option when I dealt with exhaust and my stupid cast manifolds. Make sure you have the master cylinder you need for that stroke. I know the wilwood slave only comes in one size; I had to run a 1" master cylinder to get the full stroke out of the slave after I put in a new clutch. A 3/4" MC would probably work with a worn clutch though, so be careful (especially if you can still return the 3/4" one...). You found it. Thanks for the input. I have the mark viii headers but one side has a Cat built onto it and the other just doesn't look like it would flow very good, if i run into major issues with the exhaust i may revisit using them. I am starting to build the exhaust in the next couple day and have already had to pull the studs on the flanges and swap to bolts due to the proximity to the frame rails. When i talked to wilwood they say that the 3/4 master is what they recomend with their slave, so i'll give it a shot if it doesn't work i'll probably go to a 1". Looking at my slave in almost the same configuration you are running I am concerned about the amount of travel available and if it will be enough. The other thing I was curious about that i didn't see you mention was if you used the stock fuel lines and tank and if you have had any issues. I was planning on using the stock tank with a surge tank but haven't decided on fuel lines yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) Yeah, I'm kinda wondering how Wilwood would know the stroke you have on an old Z car at the pedal vs. what you need at the clutch arm. If I can find them, I'll put up a picture of the excel sheet I used to figure out the right master cylinder / slave cylinder arrangement. (EDIT, Found it. ) I think you'll run out of travel at your master cylinder early based on my measurements on this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97812-460zgt-project-build/?p=983253 Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 0.750 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 1.400 0.619 Volume (in3) Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 0.875 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 1.029 0.619 Volume (in3) Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 1.000 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 0.788 0.619 Volume (in3) SORRY about the crap format. Apparently this forum style doesn't like direct copy paste from Microsoft programs.... I just used the stock fuel lines. Literally, I don't think I even changed the fuel line length! I used the stock Z fuel filter and mounted it near where the battery tray is. I don't think I have a recent picture of that setup and how I mounted my MAF/ airfilter either. Why are you running a surge tank? To put a higher volume pump in? I'm not sure what the stock pump is rated for (gph at 36psi) but I seem to remember looking into it and realizing I would be fine. Edited May 29, 2013 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRAYZ Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Great build, I have a question, For the crossmember could you have used a tubular K member for your mounting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 I don't see why not. I didn't have a tubular xmember, but that would have saved some weight for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRAYZ Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Thanks I will start the hunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) FYI to me: Wilwood PN's for the o-rings. If replacements are purchased from McMaster Carr etc, they should be EPDM. (Glycol, DOT brake fluid compatible). 210-1330 small: SAE dash number = 210-1328 large: SAE dash number = After years of rebuilding my old ( and definitely worn out) slave cylinder, I finally broke down and paid $80 for a new unit. Two weeks later, all the fluid's gone again. I'm hoping it just had old seals and they went bad. Wilwood sent me another set of o-rings, but I'm still not real pleased about this. Edited February 2, 2014 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) Finally got rid of that stupid Wilwood pull cylinder. I actually broke down and bought a new one back around Christmas and it's given me nothing but problems. I actually had better luck with my old REALLY beat up one that I made a custom piston for. Went through about a half gallon of fluid in the last few months and a pile of o-rings... Ok, off my b*tchin' box. I got PN 12210 from Autozone $11.99, it's one of their common stocked items (I found it by digging around the back shelves of my local store.) You can't find the application at the store, but you actually can by searching their website. There's a tab for 'Vehicle Fitment' that I'm sure has been there for years, but I've never seen before. It fits: Mazda B2000 1986/1987 and Mazda B2200 1987-1993. It has a 3/4" bore, and over 1.3" of stroke before the piston starts to protrude from the bore. The weird thing that I'll have to check at the junkyard is I don't know what the inlet line fitting should be. It's M10x1 straight thread, but there's no seat at the bottom of the threads for an inverted flare, and even the 'long' tube nut bottoms before the line gets tight with a bubble flare. I ended up (I know, for shame) using a 1/8" NPT, and it went in about 3 or 4 threads, which is good enough for now, but I'm thinking maybe it's supposed to be a banjo fitting? Seems weird, but I sure saw some weird master/slave cylinders when I was digging through the Azone stock. I made up some brackets and mounted it to the side of the transmission, which worked ok, but I couldn't put it directly inline with the clutch arm, so I had to weld an extension bar offsetting the push rod about .75" to the side. I also had to make an extension to the pushrod that came with the slave, but I don't have any pictures. I basically just took an aluminum rod, threaded the end to take a button head screw and drilled the other end out to slide over the stock pushrod. (ie, the button head screw is the contact point on the clutch arm, and is adjustable.) Overall it works really well, it's still a pretty firm feel to the pedal, but the MC stroke required to get the transmission disengaged leaves the pedal a few inches from the floor. Not a big deal for me, but I think maybe now my wife can drive the car (she couldn't reach the floor with the clutch pedal before, which was required with the Wilwood pull cylinder). The bolts that have rusty rod welded to them may seem like overkill, but they're really hard to reach in the trans tunnel, and they acted like studs for the bracket to bolt to the trans to. Drop the assy in from the top, slide the blue bracket up onto the studs, put the nuts on, Done. For a one time installation, it's not a huge deal to hold the bolts on top, but when it's gotta come on and off 10 times in an hour the first time you're making it...it really is a time saver. Oh, and the big 'notch' cut out of the bracket is to clear the reverse switch and plug. Including finding the parts at Azone, this took from 6:30pm to 11:45pm. No dinner.... but it works Edited July 23, 2017 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notheredave Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I'm BACK good to see your work I will be reading it tonight...To catch up I am looking into custom dashes I will be posting pictures soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 (edited) DOHC time. Blew a head gasket going to work on Thursday, and well, why not. Off to find a Mark VIII at the local yard....wish me luck. Edited August 16, 2014 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Out with the old................ .........and in with the new. To be continued...1993 Mark VIII, 110k, failed smog, assumed still running at least OK. $180 for a complete engine at Pick n Pull. Sounds like the cheapest possible way to gain 70hp (Mark VIII 285 vs Mustang SOHC 215hp) AND drop 75#! The Teskid aluminum DOHC blocks are supposed to be crazy strong, and undeniably lighter. Internet specs for the two engines are 500# SOHC, 425# DOHC. WOW. (vin for my reference...) 1LNLM91V7PY761910 Edited July 23, 2017 by yellowoctupus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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