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The Spinde Pin Saga


Leon

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  • 1 year later...

After many many hours battling with mine, the solution ended up being a gallon of PB Blaster (I didn't even know they sold it by the gallon until then) and a paint tray.

 

1. Cut the spindle pins to separate the strut housing from the control arm

2. Fill paint tray with PB Blaster and soak the strut housing for a couple days (I did mine for 3-4 days each just to be sure)

3. Commence removal of spindle pins by your preferred method

 

 

I had probably spent somewhere between 40-80 hours total on my spindle pins before this (probably closer to 80 if you count driving around to shop after shop trying to get someone to press them out) and I don't think I ever even got mine to move AT ALL. I had finally taken them to a guy with a 15ton press who would try. He used an impact socket on top of the pin to press it through and just ended up destroy his socket. That was the point at which I was like "FML, I hope I don't have to buy new strut housings with the pins already removed" Then I got this tip from a guy who worked at a transmission shop who had similar issues and when I told him what it was for he laughed.

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Mine each took about 14 tons of pressure in a big press, and they didn't come out smoothly. Every time the pin moved, the whole world shook very loudly! All this was while the whole strut was still attached.

 

Thanks for bringing those memories back!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heat. Torch the cast metal of the strut housing, while applying pressure. It makes all the difference.

 

Yeah, without heat mine might have needed 50 tons of pressure!

 

Yes! Heat is critical, no matter which method you use!

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