studioti Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) First I'd like to say that I'm set on going with the Webers, because I'm shallow and how my engine looks/sounds is just as important as how it drives. I'm sure there are 10 different ways to reach my goal for 10x less, but heck...these are my pennies I've been saving, I'd like to blow it how i want. haha Where my car is now: • Newly rebuilt L28 F54 flat tops • Stock Cam • New stage1 port/polish P90 head • High compression mod. shaved .080" w/ longer valves, etc (BTW, i bought my tower shims from DEREK. Great product, great price, great communication +1 for him) • Approx Compression 10:1 • Currently running all stock EFI. • MSA 6-1 header: MSA 2.5 exhaust • 1st gen 5speed: R200 3.54 • Driving impression: love it, can't complain, big improvement of tired old stock L28 • Note: This is a weekend car, so daily driveability is not a first priority...more like third. But now the power bug has bit me and to top it off, I heard a set of Triple Webers roar at the recent MSA event and I was sold... My Goal: To modestly get 200rwhp or anything north. My budget: $2000 plus or minus the little things My Question: • DCOE 40 or DCOE 45? • What Cam? Lift? Duration? Springs? • What fuel pump? • What FPR? As for tuning, I have two very reliable sources with a knack for these Webers, so they'll be doing that for me. Please don't flame me about the search engine or tell me to read up on theories, I've done this. I just want a parts list of what others have bought in hopes to achieve the 200rwhp mark. Thanks to any that can help. Edited April 19, 2011 by studioti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Good decision. Period correct modding is always fun. I run 40DCOE18's on my stock '76 L28 with 32mm chokes. I think either carb will work for you. Obviously the 45's will ultimately give you more top end. Remember, smaller chokes size flows faster at low engine speeds for easier low end tuning (street). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Replace with stock P90. Add Turbo. 200HP, done. That's what I did, but I used Triple Mikuinis and had a bit more than 200RWHP... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studioti Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 Good decision. Period correct modding is always fun. I run 40DCOE18's on my stock '76 L28 with 32mm chokes. I think either carb will work for you. Obviously the 45's will ultimately give you more top end. Remember, smaller chokes size flows faster at low engine speeds for easier low end tuning (street). I've been a secret fan of your cars. Your silver s30zt is gorgeous and the engine bay is very tidy, but not over the top. Great job. I noticed that you recently built a carb car and i also have seen your video. I am heavily leaning towards the 40s as well. Do you care to share some insights as what "not" to do? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Call Ron at Isky cams and chat with him about what kind of cam/springs you should run. As for fuel pressure, I'm using an "OEM" replacement from autozone. It's a low pressure(3-5psi) fuel pump. Works fine, but I eventually want to change it out with an EFI fuel pump and get a regulator mounted in the firewall with new lines for a cleaner look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) I think the choice of cam & carb have to be done together. I have a port/polish P79 head from Braap with flat tops & Rebello street cam and it flows too well now for my 40DCOE-18 with 32mm chokes. I run out of air at 5000rpm but it could be adjusted with larger chokes. tuning is also awkward, my engine requires small main jets around 110-115 whereas previous stock N42 head with Scheinder stg II cam was running well with 140. You have to think about the behavior you want on your car. Mine pushes very hard at low rpm and it's very fun to drive on small roads. As stated before, it has to be tweaked to be efficient until red line around 6000rpm where my cam should still be efficient. Regarding fuel pump, I was running my mech pump at first but I found out very quickly it couldn't keep up. Electrical one is definitely a big plus: higher flow, carbs will be primed easily before you try to start the car. I have a carter unit so far but it is crazy loud (i think something is wrong with mine since you can read good comments about it and the noise it makes), I'll try a Red Facet pump next. Regarding driveability with Weber, it is linked with the fact vaccum from distributor is removed (you have then way less advance than required at low rpm / low load), it could be fixed with electronic ignition (EDIS + Megajolt for instance). If you change cam, you'll have also to think about timing, this is where you can get power from your setup. For that matter, I run a mallory unilite distributor, you can tune it but it is not super user friendly. Edited April 22, 2011 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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