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LLave

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LLave last won the day on July 1

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About LLave

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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    Rohnert Park, CA

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  1. I purchased all my materials but haven't begun fab yet. My plan is dual 2.5 using: JTR/Sanderson headers, long tubes would make more power, but I just don't have much room. X-pipe (If it fits, if not, h-pipe). MARMAN FLANGE - from ebay, they are a more forgiving V-band. Sort of like a ball flange meets a V-band. Dual Hooker Max Flow mufflers. Modified, I cut them apart and made them a bit a smaller. I have no idea how they will sound, I imagine a bit louder, but they are fairly quite (see muffler test data below) Speedway motors hangers (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SS-Exh-Hangers-Weld-On,184894.html) I intend on trying to leave space to add cats or a resonator if the car has too much LS rasp. Again, I haven't built anything yet, so I don't REALLY know what I am talking about. I hope to get to it later next month. Muffler Test All tests via an independent labAll tests @ 15” wc2 “ Straight Pipe 283 CFM2 ¼ “ Straight Pipe 365 CFM2 ½ “ Straight Pipe 521 CFM2 ¼” Typical Bent tailpipe 268 CFM2 ½” Typical Bent Tailpipe 417 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet_ Glass Pack Tips- No Louvers- Smooth 274 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet- Glass Pack Tips-Louvered 133 CFMSame as above set for reverse flow 141 CFM2 ¼” Cherry Bomb 239 CFM2 ½” Cherry Bomb 294 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Dynomax Super Turbo 278 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Ultraflow Bullet 512 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Gibson Superflow 267 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Flowmaster ( 2 Chamber) 249 CFM2 ½” Inlet Outlet Flowmaster ( 3 Chamber) 229 CFM2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet Thrush CVX 260 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Maremount Cherry Bomb 298 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Aero Chamber 324 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Hooker Max Flow 521 CFM2 ½” Inlet/Outlet Borla Turbo 373 CFM2 1/2" Inlet/Outlet Magnaflow 284 CFMStandard OEM 2 ¼” Inlet/Outlet 138-152 CFMStandard OEM 2 ½” Inlet/Outlet 161-197 CFMThe madrel bending of the pipes done by aftermarket exhaust companies is good for 2-4 h.p. depending on the severity of the stock bends. Most local exhaust places dont have a mandrel bender so changing the pipes out doesnt do anything if pipe size it not increased.My opinion, if its more noise and a little more power just add the best flowing stainless muffler to the current system and never do it again. If you increase pipe sizes, then a local shop and only stainless. Dont care about money but want ease and better gains than most local shops can offer with no pipe size increase, and aftermarket exhaust.NOISE does not mean power, some think it does is why Flowmasters are sold in the numbers they are!!! Thought I would add this review too.The results in HP order: 1.Flowtech Warlock (open) 374.2 hp/ 333.1 tq 2.Bassani Real Street 373.7 hp/ 333.8 tq 3.Hooker Maxflow 373.5 hp/ 333 tq 4.Borla XS 373.3 hp/ 332.6 tq 5.Magnaflow 372.8 / 332.5 tq 6.MAC 372.3 hp / 331.5 tq 7.Flowtech Afterburner 372.3 hp/ 330.1 tq 8.Hooker Aerochamber 372.1 hp/ 330.4 tq 9.Bassani 372 hp/ 333.5 tq 10.Spintech 371.6 hp/ 332.2 tq 11.Edelbrock Performer RPM 370.9 hp / 331.3 tq 12.Borla XR1 370 hp/ 334 tq 13.Flowtech Terminator 369.5 hp / 331.3 tq 14.Dynomax Ultra Flo 369.4 / 333.2 tq 15.Flowmaster 369.4 hp / 331.8 tq 16.Flowtech Warlock 366.3 hp / 325.3 tq 17.No muffs 365.2 hp / 330.1 tq Sound Off in Quietest to Loudest (Decibels): 1.Borla XS, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 110db at WOT. 2.Hooker Maxflow, 80db at idle, 90db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 3.Magnaflow, 82db at idle, 91 at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 4.Flowmaster, 82db at idle, 93 at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 5.Flowtech Warlock, 83db at idle, 92 at 2,000 rpm, 112db at WOT. 6.Dynomax UltraFlo, 83db at idle, 94 at 2,000 rpm, 113db at WOT. 7.Borla XR1, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 8.Bassani Street, 83db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, 120db at WOT. 9.Edelbrock RPM, 84db at idle, 93db at 2,000 rpm, 118db at WOT. 10.Bassani Real Street, 84db at idle, 96db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). 11.Flowtech Afterburner, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 115db at WOT. 12.Flowtech Terminator, 86db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 13.Hooker Aerochamber, 87db at idle, 94db at 2,000 rpm, 114db at WOT. 14.SpinTech, 87db at idle, 97db at 2,000 rpm, 116db at WOT. 15.MAC, 87db at idle, 98db at 2,000 rpm, 119db at WOT. 16.No Muffler, 91db at idle, 103db at 2,000 rpm, MAX. (120+db). http://forums.stangnet.com/archive/index.php/t-392314
  2. Stout! This car is not going anywhere. Looks great. That should do the trick. I can't image a diff with one time use fluid, that sounds like a lot of maintenance.
  3. How you doing buddy?
  4. LLave

    Toyota Brakes

    I actually have some I just took off my 260Z, calipers, rotors, brake line. They have been sitting for a few years and have a little rust. Yours for a six pack.
  5. LLave

    1971 LS1 powered 240z (SOLD)

    GLWS. If I wasn't so far along I would buy this... and probably many dollars ahead.
  6. LLave

    SPOT WELDING

    Buy one on craigslist and practice. Gas is required don't mess around with flux core. Or.... make a friend with a welder. Additional thought... I would give some serious consideration to how beneficial stitch welding you chassis will be. I did mine where I was already doing repairs, a "while I am in there" sort of thing. But it's a real pain in the ass. Stripping undercoating, paint, seam sealer, cleaning out the joint. Welding, screwing it up, grinding it back out and then rewelding. If you don't already have the skills and equipment, I would focus on other a parts of the build while you acquire skills/equipment. I don't mean this to be discouraging, just saying, don't over focus on a "need" to stitch weld your chassis.
  7. Impressive. It really goods great. I like the color combo
  8. Nice work! I love that advanced spay can technique. Painting the inside of the cowl is very difficult.
  9. Jim, I live in Santa Rosa, where we just went through major fires. I also have family in Redding. This is very close to home. I am sorry that you are going through this. If I can help let me know. You are about 4 hours away, but I will show up with truck and trailer should shit hit the fan. Stay safe.
  10. LLave

    Steering column clamshell rebuild

    Great work. Thant looks really good. Bookmarking for future reference.
  11. LLave

    Best LS Swap Kit?

    HybridZ THER IS NO BEST I really like Hokes kit. I ended up building my own for some reason... It seemed like a good idea at the time. I enjoyed the challenge and freedom, but really if I did it again I would just buy his kit. Hah.
  12. LLave

    Speedhunters feature of a local

    Love it. That LSA must be a tight fit under the hood!
  13. No direct tech to add, however I did save this snippet from the great John Coffey "" I get this question daily. Assuming you've spent money and time building adjustability into your suspension AND are willing actually adjust then these recommendations make sense. Otherwise, take the car to Pep Boys, tell the tech to "Make it all green", and hope your tires last a long time. Track/AutocrossFor 225 to 245 width radial DOT tires try these alignment settings:FrontCamber: 3 to 3.25 negCaster: 6 to 7 positive (even on both sides)Toe: 1/8" to 3/16" outRide height: 5 1/2" to 6" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.RearCamber: 2.5 to 3 negToe: 1/16" to 1/8" inRide height: 5 3/4" to 6 1/4" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.For tire widths over 245 try these alignment settings:FrontCamber: 2.75 to 3 negCaster: 6 to 7 positive (even on both sides)Toe: 1/16" to 1/8"" outRide height: 6" to 6 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.RearCamber: 2.25 to 2.5 negToe: 1/16" to 1/8" inRide height: 6 1/4" to 6 3/4" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.StreetFor 225 to 245 width radial DOT tires try these alignment settings:FrontCamber: 1.25 to 1.5 negCaster: 4 to 5 positive (even on both sides)Toe: 1/16" out or 0Ride height: 6" to 6 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.RearCamber: 1.25 to 1.5 negToe: 1/16" to 1/8" inRide height: 6 1/2" to 7" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.For tire widths over 245 try these alignment settings:FrontCamber: 1.25 to 1.5 negCaster: 4 to 5 positive (even on both sides)Toe: 1/16" out or 0Ride height: 6 1/2" to 7" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.RearCamber: 1.25 to 1.5 negToe: 1/16" to 1/8" inRide height: 7" to 7 1/2" measured at the front of the rocker outboard of the pinch weld seam.Caveat Emptor: These are starting points for you and your car. Be ready and willing to change them based on your preferences and local conditions. These alignment settings might be a bit tricky in the rain and even trickier in snow or ice. Your tires will wear a bit faster then the stock alignment settings. If that's a concern of yours, stay with the stock numbers and don't ask me dumb quesiton like, "Well... how much faster will they wear?" or "How many miles will the tires last with the Track alignment setting?" If you're asking those questions you shouldn't be reading this thread. Go buy a Honda... ""
  14. Car is looking great!
  15. LLave

    Seat and Seat Belt Upgrade For Street Car

    Thanks man. Upgraded OEM is sort of what I am going for.
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