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1970 240z

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  1. 1970 240z

    '78 280Z Fast Idle Actuator

    You could retrofit the 280z Electric Magnetic Vacuum switch and pull vacuum from somewhere on the intake while being electrically activated from the compressor circuit of the Vintage Air.
  2. 1970 240z

    '78 280Z Fast Idle Actuator

    PM sent
  3. #4 should be getting it's power from #4b, which in turn gets power from #3 by going through the switch. If your getting power at #4 when it's disconnected from #4b, then pull you headlight fuses, you may be getting a back feed of power through the fuses. also, Check the round connectors where the main harness connects to each headlight harness. Pull apart the connector, clean and test for power. These connectors can get dirty.
  4. Hope this helps (1977 280z): Here I've added the headlight circuit From the Fusible link into the Combo switch wire (Wht/Red) , then From the combo switch to the Fuse box (Red), then From the fuse box to the headlights. Common issue is bad/dirty connections at the Fusible links if your not getting power on the White/Red wire at the combo switch plug. As said earlier, the Key switch is not required to be on for power to be at the headlight circuit.
  5. 1970 240z

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    The honda civic motor plugged is wired correct for 240z's, the kia motor is wired correct for 280z's as cgsheen mentioned, I've have done both 77 & 78 280's myself with kia motors.
  6. Glad the diagram helped. I agree with seattlejester as the LED's are easier on switch not harder. I've run mine for 3 or 4 years with zero issues. As you've likely already found, there are write-ups describing rebuilding the switch.
  7. Hope this helps. Using a Test light or Multi-meter: Check for power at the fuse block(see diagram of fuse block), both ends of the fuse should have power. Power on one side and not the other means bad fuse or fuse connection. Check to see if you have power (from the fuse box) on #2 in diagram (Grn/Blk) wire at the connector on the column that leads to your Combo Switch. If so, Jumper #2 to #1 (Grn/Wht) which leads to the marker lights and your markers should light up. If lights work with jumper but not when plugged back into switch and in on position then switch is the issue. (1977 280z Wiring)
  8. As a side note, I replaced my turn signals with LEDs as well on my 77 280z. I didn't use any load resistors. I simply replaced my flashers with electronic ones from Rockauto, Oreilly's has them too. They've been working great for a couple years now.
  9. 1970 240z

    Will this plastic filler crack?

    Google "How to use a Stud Welder and Pull out a Dent", I think that should help improve your corner, or maybe you could rent one, or ask a body shop to straighten that one corner metal shaping it only.
  10. 1970 240z

    VG30ET swap

    I'm not a z31 guy, but i would think a turbo engine harness and maf
  11. 1970 240z

    Custom Fuel Rail

    Reach out to Pallnet, he has made many fuels rails for folks here. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/
  12. 1970 240z

    ZX Weatherstripping Supplier Found

    My t-top zx needs doors seals too, I hope he can offer them.
  13. Looks like I missed out on this run, it there going to be another?
  14. 1970 240z

    1977 280Z SWAP AC

    Will, I have a 77 280z with RB25DET Neo and I am running ac. I had no clearence issues with the RB AC compressor (looks to be the same as a 2000 sentra other than sentra has larger pulley). I did have a failure with my RB compressor so I switched to the 2000 Altima comprssor as it is more durable, I had to change the fittings on my lines at the compressor as the ports were located differently. The Altima is also physically larger. It still fit but was a tighter fit than the RB/Sentra compressor.