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1970 240z

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About 1970 240z

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  1. 1970 240z

    Wide body build thread! Fiberglass Mafia kit MOLDED

    Looks really nice! I'm building another car and am considering those flares too. I can't wait to see your beauty with the wheels on to fill out the new flares! I too went with the cut bumper when I did my car! 👍
  2. 1970 240z


    Beautiful! Nice color! The body work looks really really good, very straight.
  3. Also, I corrected my basic troubleshooting, the fuseable link servicing the headlight switch is the outer/front fuseable link.
  4. The fuse box "headlight" circuit (see diagram earlier in posts) has a White/black wire feeding to it from the Ignition relay & Fuel Injection so power could be coming from this circuit and back feeding back up to your switch if your key is "On". The High Beam position is likely providing a grounding route, the Low Beam position may have tarnished contacts and may not be completing the ground. I think we should focus on getting power to your large White/red stripe wire at the column. There is a 6 wire connector at the passenger foot area against the firewall. It is likely behind the plastic mount for the Dash harness connections, its possible this connection is dirty.
  5. You can bypass the High/Low switch to confirm the headlight circuit is working properly.
  6. Excellent on getting the turn signals working! Now on to your headlights. Here is a basic troubleshoots guide I put together for someone else, I believe you have done much of this but take a moment to review it to see if anything in it helps. Here’s a sorta step by step process for checking. 1) Start by checking the Engine bay main fusible links connections. The one closest to the fender (outer) and the front (away from the firewall) is the one that provides power to the headlight switch. These often get tarnished or corroded at the Blade connectors. Once these are cleaned and you’ve verified power on each side of the connection then move to the column. 2) Check the large White/red wire at the column; this is power from the main fusible links. This is where power enters your switch. When the switch is turned on, power exits the switch to the fuse box by way of the large Red wire with the bullet connection. At the fuse box the power is split into 2 circuits, one for each headlight. 3) Check for power at the two headlight fuses and ensure the fuses to the fuse-box connections are clean and good. 4) Since both headlights are affected, it’s not likely that these two separate power-circuits to the headlight bulbs are the issue. 5) The headlights share two common ground circuits, one for Low beam & one for High beam. Since both high & low beams are affected it is not likely these individual ground circuits from headlights back to the Turn Signal switch (High/Low selector). 6) There is a wire at the column that connects the Turn signal switch (High/Low selector) to the Headlight combo switch. Check that connection; this is where the ground circuit routes to the Head Light switch, which then continues out the large Black wire with the Blade connector to ground. There is no factory relay in the headlight circuit. There are aftermarket kits or people modify to add a relay. If yours has this mod. then the wiring and relay for this could be a suspect as well.
  7. For a 1977 280z: To bypass the Hazard switch to allow you turn signals to work, Jumper (on the harness side) the Green wire to the Green/yellow wire. If your turn signals work after applying the jumper then you know the Hazard Switch is an issue and not working, it likely will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Usually the contacts inside the switch are dirty and need to be cleaned.
  8. There is a way to by pass the Hazard switch with 1 jumper wire. I'll post how to do this once I review which 2 wires are involved. I've done this a couple of times when trouble shooting the Hazard switch. Also, (I'm sure you've done this) flick your headlights high to low and back afew times. I've seen where these old switches can get stuck in between modes and no headlights light.
  9. This is the flasher I'm using with my LED turn signals. I've used this on 2 cars (my 77, and a friend's 75) with no issues. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/tridon/novita,EL12,flasher,1013
  10. I recently was working on a 77 280z turn signal switch. As a by product I developed a headlight issues that sounds much like what your experiencing. I found that if the black ground wire running between (connecting) the turn signal switch and the headlight switch was not connected then the headlights would not come on. Driving/marker lights all worked but no headlights. Once reconnected all worked. Check that this wire is connected on your setup. It's the unmarked wire on the far right in the headlight combo switch diagram above.i I believe this wire completes the circuit to run the headlights through the high/low beam switch. As for power in your ground wire, that make sense as power ultimately starts at the + battery and needs to return to the - battery, effectively a circle. So as the power runs it's route it will show power along the way unless the circuit is broken/open (such as a switch).
  11. 1970 240z

    WTB: hood prop clip

    Hood props are typically held down with plastic clips. I just replaced my 77 280z with this and it worked great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hood-Prop-Rod-Support-Clamp-Clip-Holder-For-Nissan-Fairlady-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-/253595620722?hash=item3b0b7a1572
  12. This guy posted a few years ago that he makes them. You could reach out on the thread and see if he is still around and able to make them. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30390-pantera-look-a-like-rear-lid/?page=2 user's name: 280zforce
  13. Bawsfuls, sorry for the slow response, i just saw that you had some more questions. Did you get this resolved already?
  14. 1970 240z

    Switch needed

    That's the electric antenna switch location. Switch like this: https://zparts.com/index.php/product/antenna-switch-280z-console/ Or a Blank: