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Everything posted by Zetsaz

  1. Really excited to see how this thing turns out. Keep going back and fourth between some kind of turbo build or just a fun NA. Already have MS3x ready for anything.
  2. That's siiiiick. Excited to see how this thing turns out!
  3. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    That's the same reason I go back and forth on it in the future. If I did buy something like that in carbon, I would try to get a carbon or fiberglass hatch as well and match them to whatever paint I had on the rest of the car.
  4. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    I'd keep the rear bumper on. Only reason not to is for heavily modified cars or those that don't use the front. Weirdly enough, some of the cars from Star Road that have the full length front grill and bumper deletes are still using the rear bumper. I think it looks unbalanced. As far as the bonnet is concerned, for the cost of a new original one you could have one from carbon fiber. Of course some people have complained about small fitment issues with those as well, so it depends on what you're after.
  5. I believe the popular panasport set is the 16x7 +10. Seems a bit conservative. I've looked into sizing for this stuff obsessively and most people seem to be having the best success with 16x8 +4 on some of the rota sets. I wouldn't try to run any wider without a higher positive offset. Also refer to this thread
  6. This is mine. Same area you're pointing to. It's almost all the way in. The pin on yours on the front side is out in that picture. That piece shouldn't move in and out. Should only go side to side.
  7. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    That one is the one I have. I bought it on ebay, don't remember which is cheaper right now. Ships in a full size box so it's not folded up. Fitment is good, you just have to ignore the recessed bumper areas on the air dam. They don't go as far back as the recesses on the headlight buckets. Just line it up from the wheel wells and center the middle with the point of the hood and you're good. Skillard developed some turn signal backing plates for this stuff and I didn't realize why until I had it. The 240z turn signals barely have any material to hold onto. That's the only complaint. Buy the Xenon 3124 wherever it's cheapest and add the skillard plates and it'll be perfect.
  8. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    If you're going ducted, buy the urethane one directly from Xenon. Fitment is great and it doesn't ship folded over like MSA mails them. If you're looking for the fiberglass ducted then you're out of luck, MSA seems to have notoriously poor fitment on some of their fiberglass parts. I thought Retro-spec might make one, but they only have the non-ducted type 1.
  9. I'm sure someone more experienced can chime in. What you're experiencing sounds slightly different than what I had to fix and I'm not sure I can think of much off the top of my head that would cause that problem. I would check that the pin that that guy in the other thread has circled is a proper pin and wasn't replaced by a random bolt. It should have an E clip on one side if I'm remembering correctly. I would also double check the pin that holds the shift lever in place. A good idea to replace the shifter bushing while you're there if you haven't already. Super easy based on the Atlantic Z writeup. If it's neither of those things then the problem might be internal like the selector fork being broken. Similar problem to yours but I'm not sure they found the solution: http://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-stuck-in-first-gear-but-shifter-is-in-neutral-t602912.html Helpful insights into other possible solutions/causes though.
  10. Does the sticking only happen while you're driving, or does it happen while the car is sitting too? Do you feel anything strange about the clutch? I've repaired to slightly similar things on my first car and the Datsun, but nothing quite the same. Datsun was going into gear when it was off, but I couldn't get it to shift at all once it was on, and I couldn't put it out of neutral once it was running. I think the issue was a seized throwout bearing. Not necessarily the best way to go about it, but I fixed this by raising the back end and starting it in gear. Engine has a lot more power than I do so the bearing came loose and I was able to shift freely after that. This seems to be a more common issue on FWD cars. It's an issue with the linkages not working properly or not being properly connected.
  11. MCM S30 video

    I was wondering when they'd get one.
  12. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm
  13. Honestly if everything mechanical is working they're fun to drive. Even with all the rust. The Ratsun groups mindset almost makes sense to me when I drive it as is... almost.
  14. Some of you might have seen my post about wanting to buy this car. I've been a huge fan of Z cars since I was about 12 years old. I finally had the opportunity to buy a 280z at a ridiculously low price and I went for it. It has a clean title and an engine that'll start and that was about it. For those reading, the intent of this car is not to build a show quality car, or a performance monster; just me trying to apply all the things I've learned and been reading about for the last 7 years of trolling around online and staring at build threads and S30 pictures. It's also a learning experience for me, since I bought it dirt cheap and it has some rust issues and all that jazz I'm not afraid to tear into stuff. Pulled it home with my dad's tiny little Toyota pickup he uses as a daily to get to work about 3 minutes from home. This is the first problem I have to address with the car. And probably the only reason I got the car for $300 (Some people lack both patience to do things right, and the resources to pay someone else to do it right) The spare wheel well was cut out (very poorly) and a different tank was installed off some unknown car from a local junkyard. They didn't even bother to get one with a feeder line on the side, just went with what they got and left the fuel inlet hanging to the side. On the bright side, they did wire a nice Walbro fuel pump to it. Unfortunately that was jimmy-rigged too. The cables were attached after the fact and went straight to the battery and a switch in the cabin. The setup works for running the engine, but it's totally unusable. I'm not too bummed though, I'll probably be picking and buying the fuel tank from my brother-in-law's F-body Camaro. I removed the fuel pump switch and wired it to the stock connections. Worked perfectly and engine ran smooth. No idea why they didn't just do that the first time. Much easier. I removed all the old breather hoses from the mystery tank to clean things up, cut some of the excessively long fuel lines and started properly cutting the spare wheel area (on the bottom right of the pic you can see how much metal was left hanging down) so I could rig up the tank as it is while I work out other things in the engine until I get my hands on the Camaro tank and do a proper job. Pardon the long post that was catch-up/initial thoughts on the car. More to come from today's work in the next post.
  15. Looks about the same as the issue I'm having on mine. Still haven't found an exact fix for the latch side. I'm confused by the excessive gap on your hinge side though. Hopefully someone else has experienced the same thing.
  16. Quick picture and video with my brother driving after doing a quick adjustment on the AFM. Doesn't look half bad as is... just ignore the pitting and holes on the rear valence.... and don't open the hatch... and don't lift the carpet among other things haha. Gonna enjoy this for now and make it my base for all things mechanical until another shell is ready to have everything swapped over.
  17. Yeah, it's a bit of a bummer doing some of the visible metal work on the original car and then deciding it's not gonna be worth it for me, but I figured I'd cut my losses. At the absolute worst I'm maybe $1k plus my time into the shell I've decided isn't worth it. It's really not terrible considering most of that I can pay myself back in the experience and knowledge I've gained, plus the original parts that were in the car that I'll be swapping over. I've been pretty frugal and found a lot of deals where I could to make this thing work, and most of the bigger money I've spent on it has been on stuff I can very easily swapped over to another shell. Hard to go wrong when you start with a $300 car with a running engine! To be honest this was sort of the original plan. Buy this for how complete the interior/running gear was, swap over to another shell. Somewhere along the way I decided it could be saved, and to be honest it can! Just not by me. I'd have to invest a fair amount in tools that I'd only use maybe a handful of times after this project, my own time and mistakes, or about $8k in metal work from a shop to get it to my standards. I'm much farther ahead buying a really nice empty shell.
  18. "Yeah boooiiiiii" haha. Some nice work on this!
  19. California Datsun is an absolute disaster. Also, N42 head was used on early model 280z. Standard head on the L26 was an E88.
  20. Visually and hinge-wise, the 260 and early 280 (75/76, NOT 77/78) will bolt right up to a 240z and vice versa. The main difference is going to be the inside. They used different panels and armrests as well as a different style door panel clip. Doors are pretty tough to line up properly and most people seem to have issues getting a comfortable latch going. Remember that the tolerances on these cars are nothing like modern cars and swapping doors will likely require you to do some work to get them to line up the same. Also, these cars originally came with door hinge shims which seem to help. https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-z-door-hinge-shims Honestly, it probably wouldn't be terribly difficult to make them or just use generic panel alignment shims instead, but having something that's close to OEM spec always saves you trouble.
  21. Thoughts on 280zx Turbo Parts Car?

    Post is taken down. For me personally, piecing together an NA-T build was actually cheaper since I wanted to upgrade most things. If you're planning on putting major work into it, it's always cheaper to just find the few OEM pieces you need separately. If you're looking for a cheap-ish swap for a reasonable boost in power, then a donor car is definitely the better choice (though it was a better choice when ZX donors were $300).
  22. It's lightly primed just with some rattle can stuff for the time being. I'm currently debating whether or not I even want to proceed with more rust work. After the sandblast and doing a lot more work underneath, there's even more rot than I suspected. The outside of the car is passable now that it's even with the primer, but at this point there's just so much work or money involved just to get the shell to meet my standards that I'm looking into sourcing a better shell instead. I already have something potentially lined up that is going to be more cost effective for me and turn out better in the long run, and in the meantime I'll actually get to go out and enjoy this thing for a bit without worrying about rust for a while. Current plan is to just focus on anything that can be swapped over to a different shell, which is actually what most of my money has gone into anyway, so I'm not at a big loss right now no matter what I choose to do.
  23. New 370Z Category?

    I'll agree with this. I hadn't seen much but recently I've been seeing more LS/JZ swaps in those cars.