Zetsaz

PETG. Should hold up fine. Cousin said the biggest difference (since it's not in the trans tunnel like on a 240) will be UV resistance so it's fine since it's not exposed to sunlight really. We'll reprint in ABS if it's an issue. Apparently he would have just printed in ABS first time (even though he thinks it won't be necessary), but he only had neon green haha

New 3D printed fuel and brake line brackets done Hoping to get these while I'm home for the break. Cousin is shipping them out today. They're designed for stock, I'm hoping my situation is close enough that they're usable. Printed 10 just in case

I'll probably take you up on this! I really appreciate it Bit of something happening at my cousin's right now, too 👀

Oh sorry, considering your location I should have been more clear haha. My paint job was done in Utah He did more full jobs when he lived in California. Since he hadn't done it in ages he was up for it.

I paid $6300 for my paint job a couple summers ago. To be honest it may have been low for the level of work done (the $300 over is from triple stage since I chose to go with Lexus "Ultra Sonic Blue Mica 2.0" but slightly adjusted to be a bit darker so it only really POPPED in daylight) I will second @JMortensen, jobs like this are the sort most places will just have in the back while they're working on insurance work. I got mine done by a Mexican guy that used to do customs in California but has basically exclusively done insurance work lately. I was lucky enough that he was up for doing a full car because he hadn't in a very long time, but at less than a month start to finish as that shops only project he probably actually lost a tiny bit of money on the hours. If we had taken more time with it and spent closer to 7k+ it would have been closer to perfect. It's a great job and I'm happy for the price, but certain things just take more time and imperfections on anything done relatively fast start to show. I saved some helping with assembly, but agree with Jon again. Do all your prep to your standards, take it in taken apart so they know exactly which parts you want apart and what you want sprayed, then assemble yourself slowly.

Black Friday sales plus an extra discount since I didn't need the fuel rail made me cave. Brother took a pic for me when it arrived. Lots to do when I get home for Christmas! A lot of my family will actually be out of town when I'm home, so it'll mostly be working on the car when I'm not hanging with my twin sister/brother-in-law/nieces. Sold my engine hoist to a friend when I left WA, so I'm not sure I'll be under the car much to install the Apex crossmember (plus I don't want to be on the cold floor much. I'll probably assemble the crossmember and steering rack so it's ready to install in the spring then focus my time on drilling out the hole on the new intake necessary to clear the head cooling mod. Super excited to have the cleaner setup, much improved IAC location, and an intake that'll actually work better with the ported head.

Looks about like mind did after sandblasting at @jpndave's place and having his son help me weld haha. I remember they just sort of handed me the little blast pot and let me go to town in the "yard" of the new property haha

Thanks! Also related, things you're mentioning are why I went with BC coilovers. I like that the full strut body adjusts without affecting the spring preload. In the future if I want much better performance I'd just go with KW but I can't justify it with how little I drive the car now that I'm out of the country

Where did you get your silicone sheet for the shifter? Did you just cut your own hole? I need to do something similar. I have a stock boot flipped 180 with the shifter hole opened up but since it's formed for the opposite direction it's pulling slightly while in gear which isn't good.

Wanted to buy this but need to relocate my MS3x first. It's in the stock ecu location but much fatter, so these wouldn't work until then Just rear 6x9 speakers in a replacement taillight panel cover like the one MSA sells is your best bet then if you want something easy. You can always wire for front speakers and figure out what you want to do with those later.

Route your aftermarket FPR the way the manufacturer recommends, I have mine off the vacuum port in the middle of the intake between the 3-4 runners. Yes! Fast idle valve, but no, not necessary yet. Pretty sure your car also needs vacuum going to the bottom of the distributor for the vacuum advance. Fast idle isn't needed for heat, but you do need the vacuum canister with vacuum lines going the right places for the stock system to have heat. IIRC, the system defaults to AC mode if your lines are unplugged. Probably a failsafe so you're not cooking in the summer when people are more likely to drive a sports car.

Do you have the FSM? There's a section that can help you with vacuum line routing. I would double check where you have your lines routed to and see what's missing or incorrectly installed compared to stock. Realistically here aren't that many vacuum lines you NEED just to move, but stuff like the AAR definitely help for cold starts. Also looks like you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, so I would double check your vacuum to that. I forget what the FSM calls it, but it looks like you're also missing the little booster that pulls on the throttle linkage when the AC puts load on the engine. Kind of primitive but functional piece that would also be connected to the vacuum canister.

An enclosure for two 6x9 speakers that replaces the taillight cover panel like the one MSA sells is about the best sounding option without extensive work. Think about a modern coupe or sedan you've been in. It almost always has speakers behind the rear seats pointed up towards the glass. It's a more than good enough situation for the majority of uses. Stock location points the speakers right at each other and doesn't have ideal acoustics. Speakers on the storage compartment is also okay, but realistically, you're pointing them straight up instead of slightly towards you and they're taking up as much or more storage space than a panel that replaces the taillight cover. Those rear speaker adapters aren't a bad option if you don't care that much about loud audio and just want something since they likely won't fit something as big as a 6x9. That said, they're probably a better option than the stock location since they're about as discreet and will probably fit close to the same size speaker, but are at least aimed better. Adding front speakers is the bigger hang-up since space is at a premium. Do you care about front audio, or do you just want some tunes in the car?

Can confirm. For reference @A to Z, me and @Dat73z have very similar engine builds (as far as the turbo bits go), except I'm EFI with stock L28ET compression and I'm still at full boost by the low 3k rpm range, and some boost not that far off idle. At cruise speeds with my current gearing I'm going into boost the moment I push the gas pedal even in 5th. Around town it's not quite the instantaneous response my G37S had, but it's also lower displacement, lower compression, and doesn't have the modern VVL technology. With better compression I'm sure I'd be close enough to only notice if I was REALLY paying attention to rpm.

The issue with a build like this these days is that for the cost and effort you're really not getting much of a benefit over going with a modern turbo. The effort and cost to source or create a manifold for twins is more than creating a manifold for a twin scroll. that coupled with modern ball bearing turbos that spool faster and are more efficient than old designs means there's not much benefit (or at least not enough for most people to justify the increased cost and complexity) That said, Todaro Racing did a nice twin turbo VQ37 build, and Koshikubi engineering out of japan has a REALLY nice Twin L series being built right now that could provide some inspiration you can find them on instagram @koshikubi_engineering

Looking sweet! My apex subframe is on the way as well. Taking advantage of their sales. Figured I might as well go for it when I'm installing the new T3 steering rack and have to realign everything anyway.

What year is your vehicle? Hard to help without info since some things changed over the years, and may be different across cars with/without AC, and with/without California emissions stuff. You don't need special batter cables, the batter does lead to the fusible links, but not directly. Positive end goes to the starter which goes to the bundle splitting into the fusible links. The fusible links are basically an old version of fuses, but they don't go out in the same way, so sometimes it can be hard to tell unless you measure resistance and continuity across them. Most people upgrade the fusible links. There's an example on my Musician's Therapist thread where you can see how I did it, but also here: https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Holiday sales update: Those of you who know me know I've been very into photography lately. Recently Fujifilm announced their new X-T5, and I was tempted to preorder it as an upgrade to my X-E4 but decided that I didn't need the upgrade features on it for what I do (at least not now). So that money has gone towards black friday sales on some parts I've been craving. -Just ordered an Apex Engineered front crossmember. Already have the T3 steering rack waiting, but on top of the worn out rack, the bump steer and front geometry was not confidence inspiring, the rack will be fixing the bump steer issues as well as improving the front control arm angles, which are pointed up towards the outer ends even at my conservative ride height. -Debating ordering a Protunerz intake for their currently pretty nice discount. Other than the increased flow, I like the angle and clearance it provides to make things easier to work on, but more importantly, the built in provision on the throttle for the GM IAC valve I already have would be nice. Only downside is having to drill into the brand new flange to clear the cylinder head mod. Still thinking it over

I replaced my oe system with vintage air and the open hole has been a source of frustration. Can't remember which, but one of the European datsun builders actually 3D printed a replacement that fed into the vintage air system. I can confirm after several thousand miles (including round trip down the entire Pacific coast a couple Aprils ago) that you will have plenty of airflow into the car through that hole. In the mornings when it was cool on my pacific coast drive I had to have the heater on all the time. You don't notice it much as driver, but you get a cool breeze on your feet on the passenger side (or a hot breeze if it's summer). I attempted to just use some heat shield/insulations stuff, but a single drive and the air pressure behind it blew it off. You'll need to cap it off by taking the cowl panel off, or create some kind of plate from the dash side, either way you'll probably be drilling a bit. Only non-intrusive solution would be something like the 3d printed panel feeding into a new fan setup.

Hmmm... seems my post didn't include full comment. I was going to say the one area of concern would be the door to fender gap. Maybe it's just mine, but something about the hinge design had a tiny leading edge rub on mine at first when it was reassembled even though the gap seemed right. I would double check your clearances there before committing to a number, with enough tolerances to account for future paint.

unmeasured... bit scared to haha

I'm with you on preferring the more subtle look. Painting is fine but I knew that's what I wanted from the beginning and got my Mishimoto intercooler in black.

Gotta have something to do to keep me warm in those Utah winters haha. Honestly have rarely been quite this excited about a new product. So much of "this other part number works" and limited info on rebuilding these. Something new and ready to go out of the box is a welcome treat considering how much I'm a bit burned out on rebuilding stuff. There was another one last night! Again I'm far enough away to not really experience damage, but it was enough to make my bed feel like a hammock for a bit before evacuating my building. Almost felt like I was being rocked to sleep before my sleepy brain finally realized there was something I was supposed to be doing haha

Yes, I'm referring to the small slotted piece on the top rear that bolts to both the compressor and the main bracket. It's hard to tel if the small piece was used strictly for cost or if the curvature on it is strictly necessary to avoid fouling on the compressor, but I did see the turnbuckle on someone's (maybe on. instagram?)

Some "professional" shops are professional mostly because they have the tools to do it quickly and functionally, not necessarily pretty. There was a guy close to me in Washington that had a really impressive setup with hardlines on his car, but he doesn't offer that to most people in his shop just because it's much more pricey and time consuming. @rossman I have the same AC mount, and I actually recently saw someone who replaced that rear piece with a turnbuckle. Seems like it'd be a good solution for proper tension. I'll probably try to upgrade that bit on mine when I'm home this winter even though my lines aren't done.