Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

    70.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


JoeK last won the day on May 20 2017

JoeK had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About JoeK

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 02/17/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oakland, Ca
  • Interests
    Vintage Style, Vintage Trailers, Fine Woodworking, Random Odd Facts

Recent Profile Visitors

5358 profile views
  1. Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Custom is never cheap. But Wilwood rotor discs aren't what I'd call astronomical. I have a pair I bought to do this exact thing, I think they were like $50 each. But yes, the cost of the custom hats made me go another route, which was Odyssey rotors. Even so, I had a hard time finding a machinist who would even touch the job of modifying stock car parts. They were all concerned about liability. If someone made a custom run, it'd be better priced. Maybe even reasonable. I'd be in for a set too. I've got a pair of Wilwood discs just taking up space currently.
  2. Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Might be better to have some custom rotor hats made. The hats never wear out and when your rotors are worn you just order new ones from Summit or wherever.
  3. Seems like those starting instructions may still be relevant for the new power pack . And the seat covers look good too. Making me rethink buying new seats.
  4. Your memory is fine, it is 2 circuits but I'm pretty sure that all happens after the switch. The 12v+ goes from the battery to the switch to the fuse box, where it then splits up on it's way to the each head light. The high/low selector determines if high or low has a completed ground. Go brighter headlight and you are drawing more amperage. Plus I'll be combining both sides on one fuse, since I'm using a new wiring kit. The new wires are much larger, but the switch is the same size so I think its a weak point. Also I'll be running 12v+ through the high/low selector, and ground will be constant at the headlight. But I'm a carpenter, not an electrician let alone an automotive electrical guru, so take it all with a grain of salt (or a salt lick). This all just how I understand it and am hoping someone smarter than me will read this and tell me I'm an idiot (nicely please).
  5. They will still be grounded, just at the headlight. Right now the 12v goes through the switch and off to the headlight while the ground goes through the selector. Instead the 12v will go through the switch then through selector and off to the headlight. I think its simpler really, or at least I want think that 😁. I will definitely run relays, the contacts in the switches look tiny to me so I want to reduce the load on that side while also upgrading the headlights (likely to projectors with HIDs)
  6. I guess I need to figure out which bulbs I'm going to use, then find out how they are supposed to be run. I'm flipping the ground, so that the high selector will choose which gets the 12v, rather than the ground. The EZ Wire harness is set up this way, it doesn't even have any grounds, you have to supply your own. Thanks for the insights, keep 'em coming.
  7. Maybe this is a dumb question, but I’m having a hard time figuring out my wiring. When you have the low beams on, it is just a single filament in each lamp. When you turn on the high beams, should the low beams filament also stay lit, or are they separate? I’m rewiring my ‘71 with a new EZ Wire kit, and want to use the existing headlights and dimmer switches. As I understand it, the original setup not only uses a ground interrupt system but seperate fuses for each left and right headlight. Of course the ezwire kit isn’t set up for this, nor does it come with headlight relays. I don’t think I can use a relay kit made for the 240z because of the of seperate fuses per side in the original setup. Plus the ground interrupt makes it more complicated to my already confused state of mind. If the headlights should be all on when the high beams are on, that will help me to figure how to wire up a relay setup in some fashion.
  8. Looks clean. You mentioned you used the same EZ Wire body harness as I’m using on my build. Where did you mount fuse box? Any pictures would be helpful. Thanks,
  9. Maybe it’s user error, but this iPad takes kinda crappy photos. At least compared to my Samsung phone.
  10. It’s been 6 months since my last update. I’ve been getting stuff done, working steadily but still no leaps or bounds. Until last week when the family decided to visit family on the other coast and was kind enough to leave me behind. I was able to really tackle and complete some loose ends. Got the engine harness worked out. It had trunk lines that seemed long enough to put in a truck, and I wanted to move a few things around. So pretty much took it apart, sliced and diced it, a little shortening here and lengthening there and voila. A harness I sure as hell hope works. I made a boxed mount for the ECU and got it tucked up nicely next to the blower motor. I restored the entire HVAC system, and got that reinstalled. Rebuilt heater core, fresh paint, upgraded blower motor from a Kia. Radiator and fans mounted. All hoses run. Went through a lot of hoses finding what would fit. What worked for others didn’t seem to work for me. Ordered 3 different 45 degree thermostat elbows, and they all showed up with 60 degree angles. Still not sure if I like the location of the steam fitting and vent in the upper hose, might move down so at least it’s horizontal so I can get the air out of the system (if I ever get to that point). finished the majority of the cold air intake. Still need to mount the air filter, which arrives tomorrow. I have an adjustable stiffener arm by Spectre that I hope will work to hold the filter up. It just doesn’t seem like it will be that stable otherwise. Made a shifter boot out of neoprene and a retainer ring out of sheet metal. Had to hack a substantial amount out of the center console to make it fit over the MGW short shifter, and will need to figure out an interior boot at some point. Restored the dashboard and am really happy with how it turned out. We’ll see how long it lasts. 5 new Speedhut gauges, with new Millhouse pods for the smaller gauges. Sound mat on the entire interior. Used Rattletrap extreme. Great bond, same thickness as the big well known stuff but half the price. I don’t really know effective it will be, but certainly can tell the difference when knocking on the panels. Camaro tank installed, plumbed and wired. Just need to get fuel gauge worked out. Next up is the body harness. Have a 20 circuit EZ Wire harness and am trying to get my mind into it. Electrical is kinda my kriptonite, it makes me weak in the knees. Then I guess it’ll be time to throw some fluids into everything and see if she’ll start.
  11. And I think Photobucket changed the settings so that you have to pay money now to share pics
  12. TTT are adjustable without removal. What flares are those?
  13. Anybody take the plunge on these yet?
  14. Very nice looking. My set up is very similar to your routing, though I don't think I would have space to put the steam vent fitting in that spot. Mine is curretly lower down, about halfway along the vertical portion of the upper hose. Not sure if its in the right spot, worried I may not be able to bleed it if its not at the top like yours.
  15. Weld in Camber Plates Cover

    Pics would be grea. I need to do this too