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JoeK

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JoeK last won the day on May 20 2017

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About JoeK

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 02/17/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oakland, Ca
  • Interests
    Vintage Style, Vintage Trailers, Fine Woodworking, Random Odd Facts

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  1. As usual with this build, looks great. What will you do for the control arm mounts in the front? The original piece also held the front of the long nose diff, but also seemed to tie the left and right together. Now you've also got a brace across on that front mount. I haven't done the diff alignment yet on mine, but it currently looks like the pinion flange will hit the original cross brace.
  2. Yeah, I rushed my dash wiring, and now thinking I’ll likely spend what time I can get this weekend redoing it.
  3. Still plugging away at this. Took some time off to waste a bunch of time playing Call of Duty but back at the car again. Scratched a couple bald spots getting the car wired but it’s in and tested. Finishing that hopefully this weekend. Picked up my new driveshaft this afternoon, checked it for fit and found I’ll need to remove that ashtray recess in the tunnel.
  4. JoeK

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    Cool. I guess it's just another of those little differences between the different years. My car is a late '71. The squirrel cage fit just exactly with no trimming, though I did have to elongate the mounting holes slightly. As far as the wiring, my original fan motor has 2 wires with individual tabs, that I believe went to the housing.the plug from the housing has a 6 wire plug on the end.
  5. JoeK

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    Anybody know where to get the proper electrical plug for that fan? That fan right into my housing, no trimming. But need the plug to wire it up. Thanks, Joe
  6. JoeK

    List of S30 mods

    If you want build your own harness with labeled wire for less than the cost of a Painless kit, buy an EZWire kit and cut off the fuse block. EZ kit is good quality wire but less than half the cost of Painless. I think the whole EZ kit is nice, but I think the instructions blow.
  7. Thanks. I’m assuming it doesn’t matter if the car is running.
  8. Can someone tell if the turn signals are supposed to work with the key in the off or lock position?
  9. Yeah, I'm far from the expert on the subject but from the googling I did it seemed like the big difference between the 2 was gains in low end torque with long tubes. And it is all about the torque isn't it, especially when racing
  10. I ordered a rebuilt booster from Rockauto also, showed up 2 days later. Might cancel from your original seller, if they can't produce the darn thing.
  11. JoeK

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Custom is never cheap. But Wilwood rotor discs aren't what I'd call astronomical. I have a pair I bought to do this exact thing, I think they were like $50 each. But yes, the cost of the custom hats made me go another route, which was Odyssey rotors. Even so, I had a hard time finding a machinist who would even touch the job of modifying stock car parts. They were all concerned about liability. If someone made a custom run, it'd be better priced. Maybe even reasonable. I'd be in for a set too. I've got a pair of Wilwood discs just taking up space currently.
  12. JoeK

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Might be better to have some custom rotor hats made. The hats never wear out and when your rotors are worn you just order new ones from Summit or wherever.
  13. Seems like those starting instructions may still be relevant for the new power pack . And the seat covers look good too. Making me rethink buying new seats.
  14. Your memory is fine, it is 2 circuits but I'm pretty sure that all happens after the switch. The 12v+ goes from the battery to the switch to the fuse box, where it then splits up on it's way to the each head light. The high/low selector determines if high or low has a completed ground. Go brighter headlight and you are drawing more amperage. Plus I'll be combining both sides on one fuse, since I'm using a new wiring kit. The new wires are much larger, but the switch is the same size so I think its a weak point. Also I'll be running 12v+ through the high/low selector, and ground will be constant at the headlight. But I'm a carpenter, not an electrician let alone an automotive electrical guru, so take it all with a grain of salt (or a salt lick). This all just how I understand it and am hoping someone smarter than me will read this and tell me I'm an idiot (nicely please).
  15. They will still be grounded, just at the headlight. Right now the 12v goes through the switch and off to the headlight while the ground goes through the selector. Instead the 12v will go through the switch then through selector and off to the headlight. I think its simpler really, or at least I want think that 😁. I will definitely run relays, the contacts in the switches look tiny to me so I want to reduce the load on that side while also upgrading the headlights (likely to projectors with HIDs)
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