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Dat73z last won the day on April 6 2017

Dat73z had the most liked content!

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About Dat73z

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  1. Dat73z

    Varying Intercooler Piping Size

    No problem- to be clear, this shroud looks like to would work great with slightly smaller diameter fans and on those 3 core radiators where the cooling fins are flush with the endtanks to direct all of the cooling air into the fans. If you want to run the twin 12 spals it would be better to fab your own shroud. I'm talking to some folks now to get this cut on a waterjet to hopefully get a better finish than I can with tin snips.
  2. Dat73z

    Varying Intercooler Piping Size

    Thanks, yeah realized that yesterday as well when researching if there was an optimal air gap between the fans and cooling fins for a shroud. I was looking around and it looks like most aftermarket radiators have the cooling fins coming out to almost flush with the endtanks. The Mishimoto which is what I've been running has the cooling fins ~1/4" inset behind the endtanks I think because it's a 2 core so may be able to net another 3/4" clearance there. Going to measure and see this weekend/week or next when I get everything on. Found this pic of a Mishimoto radiator from their site where they welded on a shroud for the s30z radiator.
  3. Dat73z

    Varying Intercooler Piping Size

    For the curious, here is what twin SPAL 30101522 12" fans look like on a ZCarDepot shroud. The fans are slightly over 1" thick at the edges and taper to slightly over 2" thick at the motor. This matches the drawings from the SPAL website of course. The shroud is a bit undersized for these particular fans and feature a step at the edges. I'm not sure of the functional purpose of the step, but it adds roughly 3/4" to the assembly height or as I'd mentioned before ~1" if I consider the 1/4" step inwards on the Mishimoto radiator. Likely I'll fabricate my own flat AL shroud to better fit the radiator and fans.
  4. Dat73z

    Varying Intercooler Piping Size

    Another way to look at this is you need fans either way and you already have the intercooler piping kit. You could always get a larger single or the dual 12's and decide after mocking and measuring up if you want to fabricate or purchase a shroud. Best of luck on your install. Edit: Just purchased the 2x Spal 30101522 Puller Fan (12" Medium Profile) ~1300 CFM ~2.5" thick so I guess I'll know in a week or so.
  5. Dat73z

    Varying Intercooler Piping Size

    240z Turbo- interesting points on charge air density and piping diameters. I had not considered that. If at all possible I'd like to go 2.5" and be done with it but I'm thinking packaging will be the issue. Do you think the 2.25" piping on the hot side would make a noticeable difference in boost/turbo response at these power levels ~300whp? Albatross Cafe- I have yet to mount my electric fans. I have been running a Mishimoto radiator with the mechanical fan/clutch for years which has been working great in my weather and recently picked up the ZCarDepot 12" dual fan shroud. I have yet to purchase my electric fans but I'm looking at running the following SPAL models: Spal 30101522 Puller Fan (12" Medium Profile) ~1300 CFM ~2.5" thick Spal 30100467 Puller Fan (12" Low Profile) ~ 900CFM ~2" thick So far as I can tell I'll need the twin 12" medium profile fans for >2000 CFM to match the factory mechanical fan (or a combination of one medium, 1 low profile). Really the main constraint for me will be running the hot side pipe across the front of the engine with the fan shroud and electric fans. I could probably just mount the fans directly to the radiator and save an inch or so that way but would prefer to run the shroud as it gets over 100*F over here on summer days. Also I've been in contact with Craig @ Simtec (really nice and knowledgeable guy). He'll be fabricating the piping for me but I'll need to get him the measurements of my setup once I have it all mocked up.
  6. Hello, Are there any benefits (or drawbacks) to varying intercooler piping size between the hot side and cold side? I am considering running 2.25" from the turbo (T3/TO4E 50 trim 2" outlet) to intercooler (2.5" inlet/outlet) and 2.5" from intercooler to intake manifold (2.5" inlet). This is for packaging reasons to give more clearance for electric fans. Does it make more sense to just go 2.5" for all piping instead? Any thoughts on boost response for the 2.25 versus 2.5 (or hybrid 2.25/2.5) or is this negligible? I'm shooting for ~300whp L-series so I don't think the setup would be choked but in the future may consider going for more power. Thank you!
  7. Dat73z

    Transmission Countershaft Bearing Shim

    Update- got it all sorted. Should have checked this first: took everything apart again and tapped the inner counter bearing race with a socket. Reassembled and tapped around counter bearing with a rubber mallet. Remeasured around and found ~4.3-4.35 dimension A which indicates a 0.2-0.3 shim in the table. The shim from the SR20 transmission cover was a 0.3 so will be reusing that. Cover now sits flat against the bellhousing with the shim in place and no gasket. Thanks again for the help!
  8. Dat73z

    Transmission Countershaft Bearing Shim

    NewZed- good point on the "Allowable Clearance." I was scratching my head on what that was in reference to (e.g. is a gap of 0.16mm between the countershaft bearing and the front cover acceptable to account for thermal expansion or conversely if the cover fits flush to the bellhousing and there is no gap between the countershaft bearing and the cover is acceptable...it would have been helpful to have those measurements called out in the drawing unless I've missed it in the 30 page body of text).
  9. Dat73z

    Transmission Countershaft Bearing Shim

    NewZed, thanks for the thoughtful reply and detailed info. Yes, dimension A is slightly beyond the FSM chart (which I assume takes into account the thickness of the front cover gasket) so likely I'd be getting too much preload on the bearing just from the front cover with no shim. I'm going to attempt to tap the countershaft bearing inner race with an appropriately sized socket to ensure it is fully seated against the counter gear and re-measure just to be sure.
  10. Hello, I am currently mating a 280z 5 speed bellhousing to a SR20 transmission. All of the machining has been completed and shifting is smooth when assembled. I was taking measurements on the countershaft front bearing (larger 62mm) against the bellhousing and came up with ~4.85-4.9mm. Following the chapter in the service manual (http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Mt.pdf) MT30 (page 30 of 30 in PDF) I am slightly beyond the maximum allowable clearance listed in the table (4.71mm...which requires no shim). So I am somewhere on the order of 0.15-0.25mm out from the maximum clearance. Test fitting the front cover on the bellhousing with no gasket just -barely- touches the outer race of the countershaft bearing first and leaves a hair gap around the cover where the cover doesn't sit flush against the bellhousing. Does anyone have any insights on the following? Am I correct to assume I can run no countershaft bearing shim here and the front cover gasket will take up the additional room? I am assuming that since the outer race remains stationary and countershaft/inner race area in the front cover has been relieved/machined for movement this wouldn't cause any issues? Am I missing something major here (like needing to press the countershaft bearing in or something)? Thank you!
  11. I am actually still on that set of tires. I drive it nearly every day but my commute to work and the grocery store isn't that far . Weekend trips occasionally maybe a couple hundred miles each time. I figure I have ~6000 miles so far, maybe another 4-6k left on them. Not too much wet weather driving but I've noticed they aren't that great in the wet. With a 3.9 clsd rear end and close ratio 5 speed, triples and tight suspension I can easily kick out the rear in the rain. Overall I'm happy with the tires and can't wait to get the updated set.
  12. Thanks! I've found that is the ideal ride height on that tire/wheel setup to service the car. 2 finger gap all around and a low pro jack barely slides under the crossmember/diff. I was tucking tire before and the crossmember was basically on the ground. Absolute pain to get the car in the air.
  13. I would go with 225/50/15. Here is an older picture of my car on RKR 15x8 +0 225/50/15 R888 (old style). T3 suspension all around. Needs a light fender roll to clear the rear.
  14. Dat73z

    123ignition timing maps for 40DCOE's

    Yes, you have the general gist. In terms of adjusting valves yes intake/exhaust. This is part of getting each cylinder to be doing the same thing before you start tuning...you can adjust them cold for now to start. Check them again hot and you may need to rebalance the carbs slightly afterwards if the adjustment is large enough. My method of setting up triples is slightly different as I use a single wideband o2 but same principles. The tuning is an iterative process. Let's say my valves are adjusted cold before starting and no vacuum leaks: I start by disconnecting and zeroing everything out, new spark plugs. From there I set idle mixture screws evenly across the board (something like 1.5 turns out). From there I start the car and evenly adjust the idle mixtures to hit 12.5-13 AFR at idle. Now I'll use the STE still to sync the carbs. Carb to carb (1, 2, 3) then barrel to barrel. You'll notice some cylinders may need no adjustment while others may need moderate adjustment. If there is a wide range of adjustment bend throttle shafts or butterfly position is suspect. Unless the jetting is really far out the car should be drivable now. I'll usually drive around a bit until everything is warmed up and check the valves again, adjust as necessary. Drive the car around some more to warm everything up then double check the sync via STE tool. Jet for 12-13 AFR across the board and smooth power delivery. Edit: In terms of idle speed, I've noticed idle speed sits around 800-1100 after balancing and engine warmed up. I suppose you could also shoot for a rpm target, but I usually tune as above and just let the idle RPMs sit where they are happy when warm (800-1100 RPM).