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HybridZ

tube80z

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tube80z last won the day on February 24

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  1. I have a long history with sidedrafts and used to have tons of jets, emulsion tubes, etc. The advantage you'd see on just a 45 mm throttlebody is that you don't have the auxiliary venturi and the chokes. So you'll see more airflow with EFI than with the carbs. Do you need a larger throttlebody is the question? Do you currently see a vacuum in the manifold? If your engine makes over 300 HP then I'd be inclined to look at a 50s or 55s. I'd call Rebello and ask him for a recommendation as he'd know best. Cary
  2. Look up used NASCAR parts on eBay for some stuff (window nets, fire suppression, etc.). I'd check local club newsletters for used parts and any of the facebook groups for used racer stuff. But you probably already know all that. And you can ask around at some of the races/track days to see if you can find anything. Cary
  3. If you want to do a modern flush mount look this is probably what you need to do. I'm half-assing it with a different method for my car, at least at first. And that's gluing the windshield and then using RTV to fill the gap and smoothing it. I saw this back in the 80s and 90s on a few of the IMSA cars. I asked a pit member how they did this and that's what he told me. I'm also thinking about a 3D-printed rain gutter bridge to make air flow down the side of the car better. Cary
  4. Can you give a summary of what this method is? I went to that link, which required a signup and only found a group with a ton of emails.
  5. tube80z

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    Do you have an example picture you're trying to upload? You can send to me at tube80z@gmail.com
  6. A friend built an endurance car (Chumpcar/Lucky Dog) and was going to use a new Nissan gasket. I talked him into gluing the windshield and was amazed at the results. The difference between this and a normal gasket was the same having a strut bar or not. This car has been used hard, ridden some large curbs, and never cracked a windshield. I'm not saying it can't happen on the street but I'll be gluing in my street car's windshield when we get to that point. Cary
  7. Hard to say. The only L-series engine I weighed was a friend's race car long block and nothing but a Peterson dry sump, Alloy crank pulley, and dry sump drive. That was 325. So I don't know if that is going to be 50 lbs, but it's probably very close.
  8. The problem is HybridZ has no idea how to deal with a ".jfif" file extension so it only shows as a download. change it to ".jpg" or a ".png" and it should work fine. Hope that helps, Cary
  9. Hey Mike, great to hear from you. I'd also take a look at https://www.race-technology.com/gb/gopro software for pulling data on most newer gopro cameras. And if you want to be able to mix and match data Track Attack is nice software to use. It also can integrate most action cameras into a feed with overlaid data. Cary
  10. So sorry to hear the news Stony. Glad you're alright and we'll all morn the beast you created. Cary
  11. Hey Aydin, I would do one small mod that will save you down the road. Use a small section of flexible brake lines that goes from the masters to a block on the firewall that terminates the hard lines and has a high spot for a bleeder (one with a check valve). When I got this advice I thought it was stupid until I needed to fix a master that was leaky. I had it removed, new one installed, and blead in about 5 minutes. When a friend had a similar issue the hard line kept leaking and this similar process was a half hour or more. Cary
  12. The LV1 only came in vans as far as I know. The LV3 is more widely available but has displacement on demand (DOD) that needs to be removed. You can pull the balance shaft out and they work fine from what I've read. For some reason these are super pricey, which seems odd as there should be a bunch on the used market. They came in a number of trucks and small SUVs. The LV1 and LV3 are 100 pounds lighter than the equivalent V8. Scoggin Dicky has some dyno videos where they used a pulled LV3 with DOD delete and a new cam and it made 368 HP and had over 300 ft-lbs of torque at 2 or 2.5K.
  13. Almost all the new throttlebodies have them as a cam and you can either borrow one or make something similar. If you wanted to do it so that the linkage looked stock you probably could hide this under the dash or put the same on the firewall for the cable from the pedal would wrap onto. I think you could make different options to fine tune the response to where it works best for you. I stole the idea from John DeArman (sp?) who used to have a Z car technical magazine. And was a prolific poster on the old. alt.hotrod Usenet news channel. Cary
  14. One thing you can try to make the ITBs more drivable is to create a progressive throttle cam so the throttle moves a lot less on the initial pedal movement. I had a car with light-switch SUs and this helped add some drivability to the car. Cary
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