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tube80z

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tube80z last won the day on March 8 2014

tube80z had the most liked content!

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About tube80z

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  1. 240Z Pro-Touring Build

    My advice, from screwing up this a number of times, is to get the engine and tranny last. You never know how long it will take to complete these projects and what looked awesome now may be a lot less awesome in years to come. Not to mention potentially cheaper. Cary
  2. A friend who runs a EP car used the CFR 4 bolt variety and there wasn't any problem. They broke one too and then changed to the CFR part. I put one of them in and they looked nice and used good hardware for the studs. Cary
  3. ABS in a 240Z?

    Sounds like you're well down the road with the Teves unit then. I'll be curious to see how that works with slicks. I was going to suggest another option is the Ford FR500 unit that is programmed for slicks. Install is very similar but Ford motorsport has a much cheaper harness option. Cary
  4. Base model 280zx project

    Yeah, photobucket seems to have screwed almost all the car threads and other forums I view. It's understandable but it would have been nice if there was an easy way to migrate but then they couldn't hold people's pictures hostage.
  5. Pikes Peaks 2016

    I know we all like to fly the Z flag but if you do have to start over a newer platform could be a better move. Not only suspension is better but you get a stiffer chassis often and much better aero. Sure you can get there with a Z but you're going to need to do a lot of work rebuilding much of the car. So my vote from a racing results standpoint would be to look at some other platforms. Cary
  6. Pikes Peaks 2016

    Holy fill your pants you're not kidding. Time for a flat floor conversion? Or do you think everything else is too tweaked? Just happy you're not hurt.
  7. Pikes Peaks 2016

    Bummer for sure. Glad all the work you put into safety was worth it but too bad it had to get used. From the video it almost looked like the road had a drop going into the corner and compression braking was enough to lose the rear end. And on a hill there's rarely any room for run off. Cary
  8. Button clutches and recommendations or experience

    Their online material (http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/PDFs/Clutch%20Facts.pdf) states 400 TQ per disk. So you may want to verify. That sounds like it might be an okay way to go. My limited experience is that you raise the revs and do a couple quick dips to get the car rolling and then fully engage (pit driving). I think as long as you use the button and the stock flexplate it will be a little better. Mine is a button and ring gear that's mounted to the clutch cover. This is using a low ground clearance bellhousing and reverse starter. If you're planning to ebay a cheap cover I'd go with a Tilton as they had hardened pads for the disks to touch. I have a quartermaster cover and they are just hard anodized from the look of it. As to how loud they are it's fairly obnoxious when in neutral. It sounds like something is broken or about to fall off. Many of the street dual disk systems employ some kind of strapping between the disks to keep them from rattling back and forth. Cary
  9. I get the motion ratio changed but if you're using a stock arm and everything connects in the same place up top then you're not changing the geometry. And it's the geometry that determines the camber curve. It works the same way up front. Cary
  10. Button clutches and recommendations or experience

    You mention using this on the street. The clutch you mention is similar to a rally clutch where a 3 disc race setup is stacked up the same using two thicker cerametallic discs, which allows for more slip. This setup isn't as grabby but still is fairly violent on take up. And when in neutral they are loud with the discs banging about. If you plan on having good launches you're going to need more weight than the traditional button allows. This is streetable but doesn't have the best manners and you need to make sure you don't slip it too much. A number of friends are running these in CP autox cars and an LS2 powered XP RX-7. In the RX-7 it doesn't seem too hard to take off and not kill it but you need to raise the revs and be fairly quick on engagement. Jon Mortensen uses one in his XP car too if you want more of data points. I don't think you can go any smaller than 7.25 and still drive on the street. The smaller options don't have enough heat capacity. Although I know you didn't ask that. Hope that helps, Cary
  11. Is this site dead?

    I think you'll find the many things have been figured out over the years so some content areas don't see much new content. That can all change based on new donors cars being available or someone willing to push the ball a little further up hill. Cary
  12. Rb26 to Jerico bell housing

    I helped with a jerico to an L-series setup. We used the front from an automatic if I recall correctly. Then a big chunk of aluminum that bolted to both. It was turned to have a center hole that fit into the automatic bellhousing. I've seen variations on this theme over the years. Here's some pics of what it looked like, https://csgarage.com/blogs/csgarage/17986933-adams-s14-jerico. There's also the quicktime bellhousing, http://www.jegs.com/p/Quick-Time-Bellhousing/Quick-Time-Nissan-Engine-Adapter-Bellhousing/2834608/10002/-1 I've heard they will do custom versions if you give them a call. Cary
  13. Paul Henshaw is on both facebook and viczcar. You could try asking him. Cary
  14. Bolt-on struts?

    My only advice is to see what level of support you can get. A really good up front price doesn't mean a lot if they need to be shipped vast distances for rebuild or if there are no dealers close by with parts. A long time ago I bought the ground control double adjustable inserts. Loved them at first but after sitting over a winter they lost all their oil (store on the shelf) and GC wanted $100 a pop to service them. This time they don't seem to work as well (no dyno charts ever supplied) and they lost oil again the next year. Now they want $250 a piece to service and that was some time ago. I gave them to a friend and he said they now want more than I paid for them to be serviced. While it may cost more I'd want to work with a dealer that supplied dynos and rebuilds that weren't too costly as those add up over time. And a company that has a good inventory of parts that might even have race track support. That probably means different companies in different parts of the world. For a Z car that's used in a race environment you want to ideally use an inverted strut. This puts a stiffer part under bending load than the smaller shock shaft. And for the higher quality parts you should be looking at linear bearings or roller bearing top hats. These will reduce stiction when the suspension is bound under corner or braking load. Even things like the type of seal used on the shaft can make a difference. The one true standard across all these is that anything that ticks all those boxes is usually expensive. My personal feeling is that a S30 Z car isn't stiff enough to need anything more than a double adjustable shock. Hope this helps, Cary
  15. Idea for front knuckles.

    The problem with your drawing is that you didn't include the hub and where the wheel face will go. Ideally you want to go all the way down to the ground and see where this falls in relation to the tire's center on the ground. One problem that often arises is the front track grows when you try and make all this work. For a street car a ball joint is probably going to be lower maintenance. The joint you're looking to use is huge overkill for what's needed. One thing to remember is that you might want things like ball joints to bend or break if you hit a curb or other large object. If you don't have a "fuse" to blow then all that force will go find the next week link. You don't want that to be the frame rails. Hope that helps, Cary
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