PrincePaul

I guess they now what commonly is used thickness vise to create that multilayer windshield as they are just so many raw glass thicknesses. Compared to what I measured could be in manufacturing tolerances, over the years the glass is flowing also so maybe a bit from here and there.

Front is 6,76mm and rear 3,85 mm acc. to the glass manufacturer. I measured the following front: 6,52 mm and rear 3,66 mm. Hope this helps.

Seems that finally after a massive covid delay the first one got delivered. A friend of mine received its package this week: I hope the ones who ordered got theirs, too. Maybe I´m swapping out mine during the winter, as the car is finally road legal since last friday. So I postponed my own delivery a bit.

I send the list of people willing to buy one to the manufacturer a couple days back. They finished calculating the shipping costs for all outside Germany and will contact you individually via given email address. Leadtime is three weeks. If all who send me a message are staying committed we´re making it 😄 Thank you all. Dennis

Alright guys, the final prices are here. Frist there is still no supplier for the raw glass the manufacturer would need to produce lighter door glass or rear hatch glass....they are still working on it thou. But they will go in production with the windscreens now. There will be two thicknesses available. One that consists of two 1,6mm panes which actually got a bit cheaper and one that is made out of two 2,1mm panes. Both blue tinted like OEM. Both with DOT and E Sign. 2,1/2,1mm 240€ 1,6/1,6mm 390€ That price is excluding TAX but includes shipping within GERMANY. So for all others interested outside of germany the manufacturer needs your address to calculate the exact shipping costs. Now that its actually happening we need to get at least 10 orders in so they will start to produce. Iaw my list we have enough people interested but lets see who actually buys one in the end. I´d say the easiest is, that everyone who is willing to buy a new windshield sends me the full name, address, contact email and the quantity of desired windshield version and I forward it all together to the manufacturer. Lets see if, cause its some kind of group-buy, they add another discount... Have a nice weekend 🙂 9 Orders ATM. 3 of them are shipping quotes for now. Only 1 missing so it´ll start.

I don´t know yet. But from Germany it can´t be that much

Perfect, I guess with windshields we´re on a good way. Sides and rear hatch are still close to reach the numbers, but lets see at the time the manufacturer finds the right supplier.

UPDATE: At the moment there is no supplier for blue tinted glass in the right thicknesses in Europe. The manufacturer is looking into other markets to still produce it. For the Windshield they are gathering data for the necessary test to obtain the DOT and E approval. I ask for a Kit in clear glass as well, so lets see. These are the ones they start to produce now as lightweight version: Audi VW BMW Porsche Mazda Opel A4 B6 Golf 1 - 4 E30 / E30M 997 MX 5 NA Speedster S2 Coupé E36 E46 Atm in pre stage: Audi VW Nissan BMW A3 8L Golf 6 R 32 F 80 TT 8S Golf 7 R 33 F 90 A4 B6 / B7 R 34 R 35 I hope there will be a column Datsun, soon....

Perfect, we´re approaching the golden number Still no update from the manufacturer regarding the blue glass... lets see. They just created this new productline with "lighter" glass. Seems that they went in production with BMW E30, E36 and E46, VW Golf 1, 2, 3, 4 now. Fingers crossed S30 soon.

For all? Windshield, Rear Hatch glass and Door glass? To be honest I don´t know from where the manufacturer is shipping. Its a german company but they have multiple manufacturing plants. They are located all around the world, so lets see when everything gets more defined...

Yeah I also think that should be a solvable issue. As far as I know windshields are coming for sure. Atm I´m mostly looking in getting the interest up in Door and rear hatch glass so the company invests in making molds for it.

Hey guys, you might have seen my posts in the various facebook groups over the last couple of days, but finally I´ll post here too, after I gathered most infos about the commonly asked questions. I’ve a glass manufacturer on hand who will produce new glass for our S30 Z’s (2 seater) It will be thinner and therefore also lighter but still obtain all safety regulations including the E sign and also the DOT number. So fully street legal in Europe and the US including all necessary testing that goes with it. Some might think thinner means a weaker windshield and also a higher risk of damage due to stone chips or what not. I ask for a statement from the manufacturer which at least to me makes sense.... so due to the fact that it’s thinner it’s also more flexible and absorbs the impact better. As our cars are not relying on structure integrity of the windscreen, it also doesn’t change any rigidity of the car. Thicker and therefor harder glass is also more brittle. The windshield for example will be approximately 5kg lighter due to the reduction from 6,76mm to 3,96mm. We’re still looking into how to seal everything but it probably has to be glued into the window seal. Then we would still be able to use the standard gasket. But that’s also the case iaw the Nissan FSM, at least for the 280z. I’m looking for people who are also interested in new door glass and rear hatch glass as they have to build a new form for it. We need in total 10 pieces made to justify the cost for a form. The sides will be 3,15mm instead of stock 3,85mm. Same for the rear hatch window. Horizontal Heating will be possible in the aft one but can also ordered without heating. Vertical heating is still questionable due to low demand, probably. (another tool has to be made for "printing" it on the glass.) Prices are without TAX but including shipping in germany, for exact shipping quote send me your address via pm and I forward it to the manufacturer. Windshield: 390€ with 2x 1,6mm glass 240€ with 2x 2,1mm glass Still waiting on raw material for these ones... sadly...: Door and hatch glass: With 10 orders: 500-600€ a piece. With 20 orders 350€-450€ due to the tooling costs. These prices are very rough calculated as the manufacturer is still waiting for answers from their supplier regarding the blue tinted glass (like OEM) in the right thicknesses. So I hope they will go down by a lot. Should know more in that regard beginning of next week. Maybe it has to be clear, let’s see... Iaw the parts catalog at least windscreen and rear hatch glass are the same across 240/260/280z. Door windows have differences in the MJ, for now they would use a 78" 280z for the forms, I hope they´re able to use them for 240/260Z too, as the general form should be the same for the door glass, just the holes and the part which mates to the metallic window mechanism has another cutout... but lets see. Shipping and selling will be done through the manufacturer and is possible worldwide. Please comment for general interest. I´m only trying to get it going with the manufacturer. Let’s see if they actually start to produce it. Bigger group buys will get an additional 10-20% off. Alright, thats it 😄 comments welcome, please discuss the idea

No hole there on mine (78" 280Z)

@Miles I´ve bought that exact same MC from Arizona Z, too. Don´t know exactly if it is from a 79 280zx, but its a 15/16, PIC blow. Seems you´re able to help me out - the fitting on the right goes to the front brakes and the one on the left to the rears, just like on a stock 240,260 or 280z, right? I downloadet the service manual of a 280zx, but couldn´t find any infos. Thanks in advance. Thats how I routed it now. If the carbs clear the factory heatshield will bolt right up on that lower bolt of the prop valve. The spacer originally fitted will be gone then:

Good to know - I just got the quote yesterday in my inbox from the Swedish dealer, which is the closest to germany. CTS411 913 For sure cheaper to buy in the US than. Thanks for the link.

For the rear drums everybody seems to mention the carbotech brake shoes. I ask for a quote and they are 437€ shipped. For that amount you can almost swap to disks... Are they really that expensive over in the US, too?

Wanna revive this thread a second time? A couple of you might know the mighty car mods channel on youtube. At he moment they are doing a Fairlady build with an RB26 etc. They used the booster of a Toyota Hilux and where saying that its 40 years newer... so from a current gen Hilux? Does anybody know of that swap?

Thanks Probably go with the S12W now and 15/16 master. Rear drums just stock but new parts. Over at the http://www.classiczcars.com forum there are actually more guys running this exact setup.

Yeah seems that the 1988 l4 4runner setup is best suited together with rear disc conversion - balance wise. With the calculations in the beginning that setup would have 75/25 bias. So thats more off the MK63 (80/20) to the S12W (79/21), but the gained clearance to the wheel is a nice benefit. Ah... so many options. Stock seems to be the easiest - yes. I check that forum out - thanks for the tip.

I don`t know for what price you`ll get a efi setup with ITBs but tripple weber (just the hardware) is about 1500 +- 250€, and the efi ITBs alone is about 3500-4000$ https://www.efihardware.com/products/c388/Nissan-6-Cylinder-Throttle-Body-Kits The jenvey kit is not much cheaper where you have the weber look with injection. than you don`t even have all the sensors and the ecu. But as I said Weber for a mild performance gain together with cam, exhaust and intake is probably a good way. For myself I`m also kinda a nerd with electronic hardware and do a lot of pc related stuff. But thats why its even more appealing for me to do a carb conversion as of the modern cars have enough electronic to play around with. And my daily will always be such a car. So to go back to the roots - at least for me - is really interesting Thanks for the comments anyway, I just wanted to rectify that I don`t loose power or make the overall performance worse with converting from stock EFI to tripple Weber.

@Miles Thanks, yeah I read a lot of these threads. I think you already wrote some similar lines in the other ones. As far as I am aware of the other thread with bias calculations were always with rear disc conversion. So we all know that the original MK63 conversion works well. It was designed by nissan... so big vented brakes in the front and a drum in the back. Sumitomo build both calipers the MK63 and later the S12W and according to other threads they are not so different in design. BTW out of jdmjunkies.ch: MK63 Solid disk type including brake-pads: 4.300 KgsStandard two pot OEM including brake-pads: 4.445 Kgs what I found on an other side is 3,8 kg for the vented MK63 without pads - not really comparable. I guess the disc would be the most in weight difference between solid and vented. Can`t find any figures for the S12W, everybody is saying that its heavier but no one postet weights. For the distance from piston center to mounting point I didn`t found proper drawings yet. Because the one you find for MK63 say 261mm disc diameter with the non vented version. But that has to be 271mm as they used the stock rotor... I`ve seen another thread here with a guy who ran S12-8 vented and swapped to S12W due to better race pad availability and was saying that they are more or less the same - driving wise. The other Toyota vented version (different piston sizes in each caliper) should be the S12-8s but I can`t find a kit anywhere. So the question is: Is there a noticeable difference between the MK63 vented with 13/16 rear cylinder (FIA brake setup) and the S12W with 7/8 rear cylinder. Brake bias, weight etc - noticeable difference while driving, not only on the calculator. If there is a bigger difference in brake bias, is that changeable via a manual proportion valve or is it hopeless like with some rear disc swaps where even NO proportionvalve is not enough pressure to the rear.

The above mentioned thread was one of which I read the past couple of days and is exactly what I meant. The majority is going to a rear disc conversion straight away and there is not much information about combinations with rear drums. yeah the calculation is simple but to compare the two variances it should be sufficient. I will try to go a bit deeper into pad sizes and piston to mounting position distance later. benefits of a manual proportion valve would also be a bit reduced hose/line clutter in the engine bay. If I use this black one from willwood with two Front outputs. So there is no need for the Hydraulic block on the left side plus the original proportion valve. As I’m building new lines anyway I can get the right adapters for the willwood part straight on the lines. my way of thinking was if Nissan design a system like that it’s properly working and properly thought after. The question is am I right with my understanding of the competition catalog that they really just changed the front to mk63 and the rear cylinders and nothing else. yes unsprung weight is a thing. I have to find the article but there was a Swiss guy who weight both. The stock and the non vented 4 piston calipers and the Toyota’s were actually lighter. Of course the vented disks are heavier than the solid ones. So does the wider wheel/tire package I want to use. the question is what do you notice more. I don’t know. Probably a discussion for another thread. KW coilovers, poly bushings and swaybars should upgrade the suspension in a way that it should take care of. A bit off topic but the tc rod problems with poly bushings is still the same on 280z’s or only on 240’s? @NewZed what do you think about the calculations do they make sense to you? still hoping that someone who actually runs this system sees that thread

Ill have a look on that thread tomorrow. But the leverage shout be the same as the mounting points are the same. And with something that stays the same you don`t need to take it into account. If you check the length and width of the front brakes pads the just vary a couple mm. Now its definitely not the "real" brake bias. But for a comparison between sys A and B should be sufficient. Just have to check the distance between the mounting points and the cylinders but that should be also vary minimal from MK63 and S12W. I know of someone running that setup, but he is just driving normal. So I don`T know if he ever tried or checked which locks up first. thought that at least a couple are running that setup. Anyway, thanks for the link. Will study it tomorrow

Are you sure about that stage 4 kit? Because it says 43mm pistons. So that should be the S12W. I don`t worry about drums in the back. The all new VW up GTI for example weighs also around 1 to and has drums in the back like the Z. I just want to know if somebody runs them with the S12W in the front. Alright how about that: So the FIA Brakes are 4 piston with 41,3 mm dia the rear drum cylinder are 13/16" so 20,6375 mm dia. So in total you`ve 8 pistons up front which combined have 10717,168mm² while the backs are two pistons each side so four in total with 2676,048 mm² together. S12W are 43 mm dia and stock 280z rear drum cylinder are 7/8 so 22,225 mm dia. Same number of pistons so up front 11617,608 mm² and rear 3103,584 mm². That makes a 80/20 distribution with the MK63 FIA brakes and 78,9/21,1 with the S12W and stock drums. Mounting points are the same so you don`t have different leaver. Considering you run the same pad compounds. Which have almost the same dimensions as well. What do you think, can you calculate it like that? As far as my understanding goes that was all they changed when you upgraded to the MK63 brakes. Front calipers and the rear wheel cylinders. So even with a stock proportion valve the S12W should work. I mean its a 1% difference... I know thats not the real brake Distribution but to have a comparison value between these two systems.

Basically nothing without proper certification about the strengt and its function. I don`t know the specific test they have go trough to get that tiny piece of paper so I can bolt it on my car. But all these cnc machined aluminium suspension parts from T3 for example will never be road legal here. This whole certification process is so expensive that a lot of aftermarket parts are not available in germany. Even steel braided lines have to be certified in a specific way. So if I would buy some in the US which are pressure tested to amount X and lets say aircraft grade hoses what ever. They still won`t accept it even thou you know they are working fine. So everything has to look kinda OEM. That together with an old car they probably have never seen before makes it easier to get it trough. Wheels will be another story, sometimes your lucky and the rim has the material stamped in. So with the axle load they can check in their database if it works or not together with a clearance check and everything. Do you know a company which sells a 12-8 vented Kit? @seattlejester thats why I will replace any component which has orings or fluid contact with new parts. If the rear went the front should still work. Isn`t that the reason why the Z has this dual reservoir setup on the master? Tire sizes are not a big problem as long as they don`t rub and the speedo is still correct. So they drive up a ramp only with the front right and rear left so the car goes on full compression and there has to be a certain amount of space between the body panels and the tire. Steering has to be safe as well while doing that.