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NewZed last won the day on August 12

NewZed had the most liked content!

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About NewZed

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    Clandestine Moderator
  • Birthday 01/01/60

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    Washington County, Oregon
  1. Running cool (maybe?)

    The thermostat stays closed until the coolant in the engine reaches desired operating temperature. But your engine isn't heating heat up properly on the road, it just stays cold. And you live in the Bay area. It has to be producing enough heat to reach thermostat opening temperature. The radiator removes enough heat to keep the thermostat at the point of opening and closing, if enough air is flowing through it. But your engine goes above the thermostat set point eventually, in traffic. Seems like your fans aren't moving enough air. And running one pusher and one puller is odd. Maybe remove one, it's probably blocking or screwing up the other. Even better, remove both. Besides that, you haven't said if you're actually switching the "traffic" fan on in traffic. But you really shouldn't need it anyway. You've over-engineered, for a problem that doesn't exist. Those are two big clues, the staying cold on the road, and overheating while stopped. You have a plain old L28 and with stock parts in good condition shouldn't be having any problems at all. Focus on the basics. Maybe get rid of the electric fans and go back to what has worked, and still works, for millions of cars. Mechanical fans. Then you can put a stock temperature sender in and get rid of the Autometer gauge problem. Once you make it work the way it was intended to, you can put those parts back one at a time.
  2. Oil pump removal

    I think that I misread your post. I was thinking that you dropped the whole pump and the distributor shaft fell out. You should be able to just put the pump back together without worrying about orientation. Turn the rotor until is drops in to place. Still doesn't hurt to read the FSM to understand how things work.
  3. Running cool (maybe?)

    Looks like you might be overthinking some things and underthinking others. Close the heater valve and run with it closed, and determine what happens. It's very important. It might not be the source of your problem but you need to know.
  4. Oil pump removal

    Follow the instructions in the Factory Service Manual. Engine Mechanical and Engine Lubrication chapters both have them.
  5. Running cool (maybe?)

    The thermostat staying shut will cause the engine to heat up no matter what radiator you have. It's the only outlet from the head and engine. High pressure from a good pump might cause a bad thermostat to blow open though. Couldn't tell if your "new" thermostat was new new or new old. If you're using old thermostats try getting a new Nissan brand thermostat and starting over. You might improve getting to operating temperature but still have the creeping to 205 problem. They still have cross-reference charts to new thermostats. You can get one at your local Nissan dealer.
  6. Running cool (maybe?)

    The coolant gushing out problem just came up in another forum I hang out on. I had the same thing happen with my old clogged radiator. I think that it means that the radiator is not passing enough fluid to supply the pump inlet. The bottom hose has to be collapsing, causing an overall system volume decrease, and the coolant gets pushed to the top side. But the gushing is a sign that the thermostat opened. First though, you might try just closing the manual coolant flow valve through the core completely, and see what effect it has. It should force more fluid through the block and head and thermostat housing. If you see an effect it will be a clue about at least one of your problems.
  7. Running cool (maybe?)

    Is your fan on a temperature switch or does it use a controller? Where is its sensor located. The fact that the temperature creeps up to 205 shows that you have a cooling problem. The thermostat is actually a heating device. It stays closed until coolant temperature reaches its set point. But the coolant has to flow past the thermostat in order for the thermostat to equilibrate to the same temperature. So you actually have two odd problems. Do you have your heater core bypassed? Maybe the pump isn't pushing enough coolant to heat up the thermostat, with the bypass, and also not pushing enough to cool the engine.
  8. Fuel Pump problems.....again

    If you're sure that everything is right then the only solution is to replace the pump. Because it went bad, it had to have gone bad. It must be the pump because you are positive that everything was right when you put it together and magic would be required for anything to change. See the logic problem? If you're positive, then the only thing left is a bad pump. Maybe try a different brand of pump.
  9. Fuel Pump problems.....again

    You already had one bad pump. Maybe you got another. Switching carbs won't fix a bad fuel pump. Have you confirmed a good power supply and good grounding? That's a very basic electrical component troubleshooting step. Are you running it deadheaded or using the return lines. Are the return lines open? Are you using a filter before the inlet? Does it flow enough to supply a gravity fed pump? Those inlet filters can cause a lot of problems. Doesn't seem like you've double-checked the basic stuff. It worked for a while you should be able to make it work again. If the pump's not designed to deadhead or if you're cavitating due to inlet restriction you can wear the pump out faster.
  10. Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Isn't this almost exactly how the last 8.8 project started? Deja vu...
  11. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    You know, it didn't work for my email. I see your @ but did not get an email. I think that notifications have to be set to get emails. You might send him a PM by hovering over his avatar.
  12. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    He was on zcar.com a few days ago. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/412105-brake-issues.html Does the @ function work on Hybridz? @NewZed @AlbatrossCafe Yours looks wrong. @cgsheen
  13. Diff Swap Affecting Brakes?

    The brakes are completely separate from the differential. You could install a Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kia, etc. differential and not have to touch the brakes at all. At all, no bleeding, adjusting or anything, not even the parking brake.
  14. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    In the Nissan Factory Service Manual. It's from the days when people could read a page or more in one sitting. I'm a dinosaur.
  15. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    Stock to what? Nissan stock?