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NewZed last won the day on June 29

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About NewZed

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  • Birthday 01/01/1960

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  1. Somebody might be interested. At 15:50 if it doesn't autostart there.
  2. Have you set the two splined ends of the different axles side-by-side and compared? Might be a clue there. Kind of sounds like the taper that lets the axle slip through the locking circlip is too perpendicular. Might have to grind the corners down a bit. p.s. if you find that that is the problem, check the edges of the groove that the circlip drops in to also. I have a vague memory of aftermarket shafts getting stuck in a diff because the ramp was too steep to let the circlip slide over it.
  3. No offense intended but the early EFI systems are actually pretty simple. If you plan to be a real tuner it's a good system to learn on. Download the service manual and the EFI book and do the appropriate tests. If it starts but dies it seems like a fuel pump or pump control problem. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php
  4. Don't overlook the transmission mounts. They have rubber bushings also that can sag and let metal to metal contact occur. One option that seems to work well is to use an RTz style mount with the diff nose hanging from the GM transmission mount. Then you can completely eliminate the bottom mount and any noise transmission there. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html I went back through your thread and see that you didn't really address the diff mounting issues. A 1/8" piece of rubber? And you never came back with what happened if you insulated the
  5. Actually it's the shift rod opening that needs to be opened up slightly for the thicker shift rod, along with the gear clearance and the counterbearing work. Here are some references. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html And Hybridz member Nigel had a Motortopia page but it is gone now. I think he might have moved the info somewhere else but can't remember where. @Nigel
  6. This is rational. My diff noise reduced a surprising amount when I lined the back deck with bubble foil insulation. As Sanchez says, the less material you have over the metal deck the more noise will get through.
  7. Actually, what you've done is eliminated all of the wires out to those subsystems as the source of the short circuit. So you can focus on the switch like Miles suggested. Power comes in on single wires, but it goes back to the battery from any metal point on the body, including the steering column. Something is providing the path back right at the switch. But, it must be after the switch contacts, or right at the contacts, since you have to turn the switch on before it shorts.
  8. Unplug the connectors to each sub-system and try again. You might also use a meter and check for continuity instead of blowing fuses. Or put a test light across your fuse terminals. If it lights up there's current flowing. The plastic around the pins at the light sockets melts sometimes and the pins move together and short. Removing the bulb won't find that. And, besides that, removing the bulbs will not find a short circuit. The bulb is actually a resistive element. Disconnecting the each subcircuit will help you narrow it down.
  9. Also, if you "tighten up" the AFM you're actually reducing fuel. Implying the opposite of a vacuum leak. Maybe a blown FPR diaphragm?
  10. Not so sure that your symptoms point to a vacuum leak. How about fuel supply? Did you measure fuel pressure?
  11. I meant to edit out the part about the gears. When I was trying to get rid of the clunk/thump I found that the more I tightened up the diff mounts the more gear noise I got in the cabin. If you got a stock R200 from eBay then any gear weirdness probably stayed with the old diff. You can't just eyeball the diff mounts. Former owners do weird things and the parts are over 40 years old. You really need to get up close and make sure they're correct. The rubber in the front mount collapses and the metal from the top piece can rest on the crossmember. Metal to metal contact.
  12. Sounds like the gears aren't meshing well. If you don't get the differential isolated from the body you'll hear the gear howl. I'd focus on the mounts. The front mount and the mustache bar bushings. What do you know about them? Do the urethane mounts have the proper metal sleeve inside? Are they compressed against the body? Does the diff have a solid front mount, or a collapsed front mount? You want the path from the diff to the body to be interrupted by rubber or urethane.
  13. Try to find a wiring diagram of a BMW that uses the switch/sensor. Maybe the BMW boards.
  14. I went with those pads on my 76 and replaced them with Beck Arnley after just a short while. They didn't have any initial bite when you first pressed the pedal. Took extra effort to start the stopping process after you felt the pads hit the rotors. The Beck Arnley pads had great pedal feel, very noticeable. But they wore faster and dirtied up the rims. I never tried to lock them up and had 205's on so might not apply to what you're trying to do. If you still have drums on the back you might pull them and check the actual contact patch. Mine only contacted at the ends of the
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