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NewZed

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NewZed last won the day on January 10

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About NewZed

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  1. It's cutting and welding. It should be as strong as the original, which, obviously, is not very strong. Many people have replaced the complete roof, cut at the pillars, to get rid of a sun roof.
  2. No offense to SeattleJester. Just saying, this problem persists even though it's known. Not sure why. There should be a post like this at the top of the FAQ area, and in each sub-forum there. But, even better than this post, there should actually be some information about posting in the FAQ area. The title here says "posting FAQ" but there's not another word about posting in the FAQ area. People are still posting in the FAQ area and waiting for replies but it is not possible to reply to an FAQ post. This should not be hard. Just pin a post to the top of each FAQ sub-forum that says "people cannot reply to your post if you ask a question here". Someone could even just put those words at the top of each page so that people don't have to open the post. WARNING - people cannot reply to your questions here!
  3. How do you now that you're getting spark? It sounds more like your "matchbox", ignition module, on the distributor is bad, or the triggering mechanism inside the distributor. Starting fluid will tell you if the spark is good. The injectors won't open (shoot fuel out) if there's no spark. The ECU opens the injectors after each three sparks it sees. The simplest cheapest test you could do is to shoot some starting fluid in the intake manifold and see if it runs for a few seconds. If it won't you probably have a bad ignition module.
  4. How do you know the injectors are not opening? Have you tried starting fluid in the intake manifold to be sure that you have good air flow and cylinder pressure? If you have spark and everything else is right the engine should start and run for a second or two with starting fluid. You're not giving enough information to make good guesses.
  5. Adding on to Sjoost's comment - the vacuum lines in the engine bay can split or break. I had a problem with the small one that supplied the vacuum to the bottle from a port on the intake manifold. It would split at the manifold, I'd lose vacuum and all I got was cold air from the heater. Just filling out the potential causes.
  6. I think the heart of the question is around their claims. Does the WaveTrac drive the wheel on the ground if the other one is lifted, in a corner? They imply one thing but then water it down the more they talk about it. ABOUT WAVETRAC Wavetrac®: Designed from a clean sheet using state-of-the-art knowledge and engineering to be a better differential than any other. It uses a patented design to improve grip in low traction conditions. Wavetrac®: Gives you quicker acceleration and faster cornering by driving both drive wheels instead of just one. And, it offers improved no-load performance when compared to other helical gear differentials on the market. Precisely engineered wave profiles are placed on one side gear and its mating preload hub. As the two side gears rotate relative to each other, each wave surface climbs the other, causing them to move apart. Very quickly, this creates enough internal load within the Wavetrac® to STOP the zero axle-load condition. The zero axle-load condition is halted, and the drive torque is applied to the wheel on the ground (the gripping wheel)… keeping the power down. Some gear differentials rely solely on preload springs to combat loss of drive. The drawback is that you can’t add enough preload to prevent loss of drive without creating tremendous handling and wear problems at the same time. So, to avoid these problems, the preload from ordinary spring packs must be reduced to a level that renders them ineffective at preventing loss of drive. The Wavetrac® is the only differential that can automatically add more load internally when it’s required.
  7. Ford's Traction-Lok design uses the side gears as the ramps, and preload springs to keep them engaged. They say that the wheel with traction is always driven even with one off the ground. From a 2000 Workshop Manual.
  8. http://www.wavetrac.eu/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7
  9. I'm just trying to help. Sorry if I'm asking too much. Not sure what you mean by ball bearing. Almost all carb float valves are a brass needle and a rubber seat. Looks like your pump and regulator should work well together, so you probably just have to get your valve and floats working right. Good luck. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426 https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1498
  10. Do all of the carbs flood or just one or two? What pump? What regulator? There's a bunch of both. https://documents.holley.com/199r7914-3rev6.pdf
  11. This should be explained in the instructions with the kit, because it should have been addressed when the system was designed.
  12. So everything worked fine before with the mechanical fuel pump? Triple Webers, no return line, mechanical fuel pump, old parts in the carbs. You switched to an electric pump, and rebuilt the carbs while you were working on things? It's not going to be the wiring that is the problem. Either the pressure is too high or your new float bowl valve seats aren't sealing. Looks like you changed several things at the same time so it's hard to tell which is causing your problem. You might get a gauge and measure pressure. Don't rely on the written specifications. Also, make sure that the Holley regulator is designed to be deadheaded. It sounds like your regulator might be plumbed incorrectly. Show the plumbing diagram. Might also be that the Holley regulator spec means that it can handle 1-4 psi, not more. What pump are you using?
  13. Where do the wires go? It looks like a stock part with the cover removed. I have vague memories of a part with a fuse inside, like that one has. But the wires will tell you what it does. Follow them out.
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