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NewZed

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NewZed last won the day on December 15 2017

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About NewZed

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  • Birthday 01/01/60

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  1. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/4-speed
  2. Pretty sure it's just a round pin that locks the striker rod in place. Any hardware might have one that will work. Length is not too important either.
  3. Does "moved through all gears fine" mean that you turned the input shaft and saw the output shaft move, in each gear? Or did you just move the shift lever? If you did swap all of the parts, from flywheel to throwout bearing, and the bearing sleeve, the it seems like you've either jammed the pressure plate open somehow or the transmission is broken internally. I'd pull the rubber boot off of the clutch fork, look inside, and wiggle the fork to make sure that the throwout bearing sleeve is loose on the nose of the transmission. There should be play where the fork sits on the TOB sleeve. You might need a mirror or a camera to get a look since you're head probably won't fit close enough to see inside, and you'll probably want to disconnect the slave cylinder rod. If the pressure plate is applying pressure to the disc and the disc is splined to the input shaft then the input shaft has to turn. If it's turning then the output shaft has to turn when the trans is in gear. Are you sure that you din't leave the clutch disc out? That would make everything look normal but not work.
  4. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    Here's where the stink got big. I cleared up more about his problem in a few posts than he did in the whole thread. He's blowing up a simple problem in to a huge deal. He should have been able to tell them exactly what was wrong after the first fitting. Take a few measurements before putting it all back together and confirming 'binding". Take some responsibility for part of the problem. To screw up the basics of working with a machine shop, then call me "ignorant' is just too much. This is very basic Machine Shop 101 stuff. Child's play, if they had machine shop classes in grade school. I was just taking the other side to see what's what, but TZS showed what's happening with the "ignorant' comment. If I was DSS I'd give him his money back and say good riddance. Even if they get it right he'll probably screw something up and blame them for it.
  5. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    I responded to what you communicated in your writing. The ignorance is yours. You said the dust cap, or ridge in this case, contacted the strut casting. Therefore, if it is removed it cannot contact it anymore. Because it's not there anymore. Pretty simple and basic. If that is not the case, then we're stuck with your poor communication. You seem like one of those nightmare customers. Poor communication, maybe due to a lack of understanding, then throwing insults when people question your lack of knowledge or ability. Good luck.
  6. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    Well, it's more clear now. If you were telling them "hey, the dust shield is interfering with the casting and needs to be of smaller diameter and lower thickness" that's a lot different than just telling them "it's binding". The first gives them specific direction, the second is a riddle that they have to solve. My basic point is that clear communications will help them help you. Plus it helps people out here understand what the problem really is. You made it sound like they were completely incompetent, and made a part that wasn't even close to functional. A guy with a file could relieve that dust cap problem, if he really needed to. I could. How important is the race?
  7. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    Thanks for clarifying. Although, that issue can be easily confirmed with a simple measurement before assembly, from the seat surface to the flange. If the outside flange is contacting then you could add shims to the inner race seat. If you wanted to save the bad axles. Good luck. Here's an image from Whitehead showing the seat surface that would need to be shimmed. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whp-billet-chromoly-stub-axles-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/
  8. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    Of course, the guy at DSS should have realized this also and discussed it with you.
  9. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    You didn't understand what I was saying. The axle does not "fit" the strut casting. It "fits" inside the inner race of the bearings. The bearings "fit" the casting. The distance piece determines the position of the inner races of the bearings, determining their lateral position on the axle. When you say the axle binds in the casting, it doesn't make sense, unless you mean that the axle won't spin after you torque the nut. Bind isn't really descriptive enough. Yesterday I thought you meant that it wouldn't even fit in the casting, but now I think that you mean it won't spin after assembly. If you mean that the axle won't turn when you reassemble everything, it's probably because the distance piece is too short, causing the inner races to be pulled in too far, binding the bearings in their races. Did you remember to install the distance piece? And make sure that it matches the casting, as described in the FSM? The inner race bearing seat on the wheel side of the axle is the only dimension that might affect binding and only if it is so far offset that it allows one of the flanges to contact the casting. Otherwise it's the distance piece and the bearings, and only after torquing the nut.
  10. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    It seems that what you're saying is that DSS could not copy the dimensions of a stock axle correctly. Not really clear what the problem is on the fit though, since the axle just has to fit inside the bearings and have a proper seat on the flange side. Binding would most likely be between the bearing inner race and the shaft. Not a huge deal, you could have sent them bearings also, so they could check fit. Seems like there might be poor communication. On November 19 you had something that was about ready to go back together. Then Lee offered to make it better, apparently by making a brand new part, that they do not currently offer. Somehow, something came back wrong, but you haven't really described what. Is it possible that DSS is not 100% responsible for these problems? It's their first time making a full 240Z axle, if I read your posts right. Looks like they're in that classic old situation of getting hammered for being too helpful.
  11. Drive shaft shop CV conversion doesn't fit!

    Curious what you mean by the axles are binding in the housing. Only the bearings should actually touch the housing. Maybe I missed where you determined exactly where the binding was. Might help DSS get it right.
  12. That area is where the water drains down if it gets through the windshield, and the car is angled a certain way. The car has water marks under the passenger seat from the puddle that sat there for while. Only the Accessory relay didn't work though. The PO had a jumper wire ran up to the ignition switch for that.
  13. Could be worse. Here's the one that came out of my car, a 1976 model. The one in front of me now is actually my EFI relay, I was mixed up on my last post. Thanks for the tip on the wiring diagram.
  14. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Super Dan asked for moderator volunteers. A moderator might have some influence on how the site works. I know that RTz reorganized the whole site a few years ago when he was a mod. Super Dan is the exemplification of laissez-faire management. It's his site, he can do what he likes, or not do what he doesn't like, to keep the theme. I'm sure he'd be fine with somebody tuning things up to work better though.
  15. That is some nice detective work, and solution. Do you have the info on the replacement relay? They don't last forever, I have a dead one sitting in front of me right now. Luckily, my car came with a spare.
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