NewZed

The computer grounds the injectors every third spark. It uses the wire to pin 1 to monitor the ignition system. There's a pretty simple electrical system check in the 1980 EFI book. Check the circuits before getting crazy with parts. That's why they wrote the books. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing.

Seems like you might need a better wrench. A six point box end would be best. 12 mm I believe. p.s. forgot to mention the original impact wrench. Tighten up the wrench on the nut. Then hit it with a hammer. p.s. 2 - it will take a lot of heat to get the flange hot enough to hurt the seal. A torch on the nut should help. Doesn't have to be red hot. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-12mm-WaveDrive-Pro-Combination-Wrench-for-Regular-and-Rounded-Bolts/5001577325

Barely know what you're working with but I did find a crankshaft position sensor online for the 2jz and see that it's a two wire unit. That means it's a variable reluctor system. There will be continuity across those two pins in the sensor harness to the sensor. There should be a resistance of a few hundred ohms, typically. It's not clear what you mean when you say you measured with the plug connected and got continuity. Can't tell which side of the plug you're measuring, to the sensor or to the ECU. Anyway, the signal to the ECU is generated when the metal teeth of the trigger wheel pass by the sensor. The sensor has to be within a certain distance from the sensor, that's very important. There's spec but it's usually a few thousandths. Pretty close. The basic testing is to measure resistance across the two pins to be sure the coil is intact and will work. Then set the air gap. Then test that a signal is being generated. https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/90919-05037.html Here's a pretty good video about the basics. .

Probably just fine. The polyurethane products were developed as a performance improvement. More precise steering, less wheel movement. The aftermarket will hype and sell whatever they can.

Actually it's rubber in the back, poly in the front. The front bushing takes the force under braking on the Z's, under compression, and is the one that you don't want compressing too much, making the steering squishy. But the poly should not have split. It does take a lot of side forces as the rod moves up and down with the suspension. But usually it causes the rod end to fatigue and break off. Seems like you got a bad batch of polyurethane. Bad chemistry, or a knockoff.

Share.

https://www.schneidercams.com/270-60F-14_LET6.aspx Did Schneider give you an idea of what vacuum reading you should be able to get? Opening up the lash effectively "detunes" the cam. Less lift. Seems like an odd suggestion. Does your engine have any EGR remnants? The EGR passages have been known to rot inside the manifold and leak internally.

Might help your conversation to distinguish between "no signal" and "no signal showing in Tunerstudio". The first is a problem at or with the hall sensor itself, the second could be anywhere in between or at the computer.

Sounds like front wheel bearings. Your tires will wear out faster also.

I have, in the past, placed the plug wires on my L28 280Z engine in reverse rotation order. #1 was correct but the rest were placed in clockwise rather than counterclockwise order. The engine started and ran but it ran terribly. Since I had only replaced the wires as a tuneup on an engine that ran well I knew immediately that I had screwed up the firing order somehow. It must have been running on only two cylinders. 1 5 3 6 2 4 1 4 2 6 3 5 In short, maybe doublecheck your plug wire placement. Good luck.

Bring a Trailer is a good place to look. Search for "240Z" and you'll be able to get notified when a new one shows up. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/

I guess my basic point was that when signed in you "feel" like you're part of a large community. But, actually you're only part of the signed up and signed in community. On top of that, even the Facebook group you linked to is a Private Group". So I assume that after logging in I would have to be accepted in to the Private Group in order to see the classifieds. Why would anyone sell a 240Z in the Private group when they can put it on Marketplace and get a bigger audience? It's not a criticism, it's just an observation. The internet has changed from the original purpose of sharing information to one of capturing attention. Used to be you could see everything and you only had to "join" if you had something to say.

These Facebook links are kind of funny, relative to the other "are forums dying" thread. If a person does not have an account and sign in they can barely see anything. It's worse on Marketplace, you can look at about ten items before Facebook blocks you unless you sign in. So it's kind of a members-only craigslist.

Also don't see engine management shown. That can get expensive. The video is worth watching for anyone else interested. The guy should just finish it. The door gap is off. Might have been in a past accident. Could be a fun project for the right price.