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Fiberglass door panels w/speaker holes


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#41 ZT-R

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 10:13 AM

Will they still attach with the body pins like oem?

<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#42 rags

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 10:27 AM

Sure can. Drill holes in the panel and slip in the stock door clip. Presto. Attaches to the door like stock!

Will they still attach with the body pins like oem?


Yep.... I'm a wanna be tuner :redface:

 

"The only way you're truly going to know how well it will work is to build it yourself and not listen to ney-sayers.If I listened to them, I wouldn't have successfully built half the stuff I have. ;)" - Six_Shooter

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#43 Rayven14

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Posted 18 September 2011 - 07:01 PM

Okay couple of things: Ive made a bit of progress... pics attached. Those panels that were donated (although a great starting platfrorm) were hammered! I bondo'ed and sanded and bondo'ed and sanded and WOW!!!! finally got em to a point where they are almost perfect. I go back and fourth with more bondo and more sanding and for petes sake good enough there door panels!!!

Any hoots here are a few pics made good progress, got em pretty smooth but honestly Im not totally happy with the results. Im feelin like more bondo and more sanding. who knows!

Panel attachment: I found a great source for push pins to attach the panels, Ill post his info tommorrow ...cuz I left it in my office by accident.

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#44 ZT-R

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 02:46 AM

Looking good so far.

<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#45 Rayven14

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 04:39 PM

Okie dokie folks, I got the plug for the factory flat panels done, just have to let em breathe a bit (gas off) wet sand, polish, seal, wax wax wax and wax before I start the mold then its on to the panels with speaker provisions. Which is similar to the process above only I'll have a much better platform to start with.

Any hoot I know How we all like pics ...

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#46 ZmattZ

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 04:47 PM

I would want some, but they wouldnt fit with my cage. Now im not sure where to put speakers/tweeters, I wanted to keep them in front of the driver/passenger.
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#47 Rayven14

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 05:01 PM

More Pics ... for those of you on the fence.

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#48 ZT-R

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 06:04 PM

You move fast and you have a green thumb. Purdy flowers ya got there :)

<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#49 Rayven14

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 03:52 PM

Okay.....

Got the plug all sanded, sealed and waxed and polished. Gonna try to lay up some glass tommorrow or the next day, let the mold cure and cool and then start a run of the factory panels. Sometime next week Ill start the panels with the 6.5 speaker provisions.

So far so good!

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#50 rags

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 03:54 PM

Looks great Pete! Got a question about the panels with the 6.5 openings. How will the mounting ring be reinforced? MDX ring on the back side?

Joe

Yep.... I'm a wanna be tuner :redface:

 

"The only way you're truly going to know how well it will work is to build it yourself and not listen to ney-sayers.If I listened to them, I wouldn't have successfully built half the stuff I have. ;)" - Six_Shooter

the toys
'71 240Z 3 liter turbo
'74 260Z old school 327 4 speed SOLD to EvilC
'78 280Z LS1 T56
'87 Grand National

'11 C63 AMG


#51 Rayven14

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 04:36 PM

Joe,

Nope, not at all. Fiberglass is very very very strong! so there is no need to reinforce the speaker ring itself. Those little clips that come with your speakers will be more than enough to support the speaker. Once I get the other molds done Ill snap a picture of myself standing on top the the door panel right where the speaker mount is .... I go between 210- and 225 at my heaviest and I can stand on these things with no problem at ALL!!!

#52 ZT-R

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 05:14 PM

Sure can. Drill holes in the panel and slip in the stock door clip. Presto. Attaches to the door like stock!


Will they be predrilled or to each his own?

<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#53 rags

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 05:23 PM

I'm wanting to drill my own so if the holes are drilled in the wrong place it would be my fault. Not saying Pete would put them in the wrong place but receiving panels with holes in the wrong place would really suck :)

Yep.... I'm a wanna be tuner :redface:

 

"The only way you're truly going to know how well it will work is to build it yourself and not listen to ney-sayers.If I listened to them, I wouldn't have successfully built half the stuff I have. ;)" - Six_Shooter

the toys
'71 240Z 3 liter turbo
'74 260Z old school 327 4 speed SOLD to EvilC
'78 280Z LS1 T56
'87 Grand National

'11 C63 AMG


#54 Nelsonian

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 06:40 PM

Can't say enough good things about Pete's panels with speaker holes, very quality and strong. Also still waiting for that info on the mounting push pins...
Nelsonian, San Diego, CA.

#55 Rayven14

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 06:59 PM

ZTR, I will cut the speaker hole opening, thats a pretty standard size - I went to a local stereo shop the first time I made panels for my 510 and I noted that your everyday sony speaker was the same size mounting diameter as your high end Nakamichi. So I'll cut that hole as well as the door pull hole...those are all in the same location so thats not a big deal.

As far as drilling for the push pins, I know I drilled out quite a few before shipping in the past, but that was when I had a half of a door that I could clamp the panel to so the holes lined up perfect for the end user. I dont have that door anymore but the panels themselves are opaque so you can drill them out according to your own application

Rags, it wont be a big deal to drill em out... once you get the top metal part bonded to the lower fiberglass part... it all kinda lines up and you can just drill em out with your cordless

Nelsonian, Thank you! I appreciate positive feedback and it means alot to me that I am able to produce a quality product. Im gonna have to find that link for those pins.... hold on a minute ...or two.

#56 Rayven14

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 05:21 PM

Good news!!! and kinda sorta bad news.

Ok so the pins for attaching the door panels are in fact a GM bumper clip/pin/fastener. I cant locate any info on the guy I purchased them from but I do have a few dozen laying around here and there. So after a little searching I came up with this:

http://www.clipsandf...&page=1&cat=151

It the fourth row dead center.

So the pins are 1 3/4 long with a 5/16th diameter pin and a 3/4 head. They completely replace the old hook style pins that came with the car and are much easier to install IMO. So once you get everything lined up, drill out new (say 7/16th holes) install your new pins (you may wanna tape them in place so the upholstery guy doesnt lose em) get em covered and pop em in place. These pins are far superior to anything that came from the factory... Trust me!!!!

#57 Rayven14

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 08:21 AM

Ok I need help with some measurements, apparently I forgot to measure the hole for the door pull. So from the front (flat area) of the door I need to know the measurements for the door pull... and from the bottom of the door ... basically I need precise measurements as to where to cut the hole.

In addition, I need to know the location of the window crank.... ya know, a measurement from the bottom of the door and the front of the door... kinda of an x marks the spot kinda thing.

I also need to know the height of the window crank as Im starting these panels from scratch and dont want to make a panel that doesnt clear the power window pulley.

Thank folks

#58 ZT-R

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:25 AM

for the window crank i got 10 3/4" in from the front and 9 3/4" up from the bottom. BUT THIS WAS OFF THE DOOR ITSELF, NOT THE PANNEL. I would rather someone with a panel chime in.

Edited by ZT-R, 25 September 2011 - 10:27 AM.

<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#59 Rayven14

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 07:18 PM

so whats the height of the window regulator gear 1/2 or 3/4 or so?

#60 Rayven14

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 08:54 AM

Hey guys... I'm kinda waiting on those measurements before I start the other panels. More specifically I need to know the height of the window regulator / crank and the door pull location (measurements)

Thanks folks.




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