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10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

280z hybernation restore

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#1 tamo3

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 11:37 PM

I just picked up 1975 280z.

Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender.

 

The goal for this project is phased project.

1. To run the engine

2. Fix minor rust

3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion

4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap.

5. Paint the car

 

Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...

Attached File  tow.jpg   82.85KB   97 downloads



#2 billyssp

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 03:02 AM

Good luck with your project !!! Have to tried to fire the motor yet?


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#3 Leon

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 08:09 AM

Looks great Takashi, a very nice original body! I'll have to check that Z out sometime. :D



#4 tamo3

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 09:13 AM

Thanks Bill, Leon,

 

Here is small update.

Before fire up engine, I did basic fluid replacement.

 

Engine oil & filter change (5 qt for $15.99 @ Pepboy)
Antifreeze coolant change (10 qt for $14 @ Pepboy)
Attached File  oilchange.jpg   109.39KB   45 downloads

I bought cheapest oil since this is just testing purpose. I learned that Pepboy mobile coupon is really handy and beat the price from any other auto parts shop.

Next, gasoline change.
Drain 10 years old gas... Oh, man! She pees a lot!

Attached File  pee.jpg   86.29KB   91 downloads Attached File  pee2.jpg   97.68KB   94 downloads

 

Make appointment for the hazardous recycle.

http://www.sccgov.or...ogram-Home.aspx

 

Buy small portable gas tank and pump fresh new gas at gas station.


Edited by tamo3, 04 March 2013 - 09:14 AM.


#5 tamo3

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 09:28 AM

After drain oil, I opened up valve cover.

I expected camshaft might be rusted after 10 years.

 

Luckily, inside of valve cover is rust free!

Attached File  engine1.jpg   97.83KB   105 downloads Attached File  cam.jpg   100.8KB   107 downloads

Attached File  head.jpg   70.89KB   69 downloads

 

Once thing I'm wondering... My head is N42. I thought N42 has oil spray tube on cam tower, but this head does not have it.

This cam tower could be comes from N47 or later. But is it OK to combine different with them?



#6 tamo3

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 09:48 AM

Checking cam spec, look for information which cam start having internal oiler.

http://atlanticz.ca/...s/cam/index.htm This site does not mention oil hole.

 

I found information that '78 cam comes with internal oiler hole, but I'm not sure "E30" stamp on the cam tells something or not for the identification.

 

I'm not sure just using internal oiler cam with later cam tower works OK or not...



#7 tamo3

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 09:59 AM

Anyway, pour oil around camshaft, and closed valve cover and pour in rest of the new oil.

Pour in coolant as well.

Pour in new gas too.

 

 

Next thing is ignition check.

 

Swap to new battery.

Check distributor. Compare with 240z, around distributor is so crowded. It much harder to unlock the distributor cap.

Check to rotor, cap, and inside the distributor. It's looks OK condition.

 

Finally, turn ignition on! .......................... does not start engine as you expected...

 

Remove spark plug #1 and put it on the top of valve cover with wired.

Turn ignition to see whether I can see the flash on the spark plug. ...... No spark.

 

OK, change spark plug wire to NGK RC-NE61, and change coil to MSD Blaster 2. I need to order Blaster 2 bracket. original coil diameter is way too big.

 

I was puzzled whether I need to put ballast resistor as same as what I had on 240z, but for 280z, I don't need it.

 

 

I will double check with wiring map later.

 

Turn ignition again to see...

 

Attached File  sparkwire1.jpg   100.67KB   37 downloads

 

:icon10:  I can see flash now :icon10:

 

Reference of MSD Blaster 2 coil onto stock 280z

http://www.classiczc...28-76-280z.html


Edited by tamo3, 04 March 2013 - 10:08 AM.


#8 Moltar

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 11:34 AM

Nice looking Z! How much you pick it up for?



#9 tamo3

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 11:54 AM

Thank Moltar.

It was steal deal. Cheaper than majority of the parts car you can find SF Bay Area.



#10 tamo3

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Posted 05 March 2013 - 01:37 PM

Last night, I check fuel line, whether fuel is coming to injector or not.

 

Following trouble shooting on "280z Fuel injection book" page 37,

http://4moores.com/2...jectionbook.pdf

 

I want to check fuel pump.

In order to hear the sound of fuel pump (actually fuel dumper) I need to disable starting motor.

 

- Unplug shin line connect to solenoid on Starter motor.

- Turn ignition

 

... I can hear the fuel dumper's sound! Good, I don't have to buy another fuel pump!

 

Connect back the line and turn the ignition... Engine start revving!

 

 

 

I was surprise how easy to run the engine that hasn't been running after 10 years.

Since it was late night, I just shut off engine within 2 mins. The cold idle is still unstable, will check it back this weekend!



#11 Perfect240z

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 06:36 PM

What happened to the 240z you were working on?



#12 Leon

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 08:05 AM

What happened to the 240z you were working on?


I was wondering the same thing!

#13 tamo3

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 08:19 AM

240z... hmmmmm.... I sold her....

She has two major cancer. Once is floor pan on passenger's side and the other is rear hatch lid.

 

I was planning to mount R200, L28, install fat fuel line... i realized that decent body condition of 280z is much easier to archive this.

 

Then I met this lady and decide to just keep one.

 

Engine is running strong now!

 

But need to work on brake and clutch now.

Attached File  BMC_clutch.jpg   86.44KB   56 downloads

 

Brake fluid is completely leaked out down to the body and paint under the BMC area is pealed out.

I wonder what is the best way to adhoc fix paint for this area...

Attached File  under_BMC.jpg   95.87KB   64 downloads

 

 



#14 Perfect240z

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 09:52 AM

240z... hmmmmm.... I sold her....
She has two major cancer. Once is floor pan on passenger's side and the other is rear hatch lid.

I was planning to mount R200, L28, install fat fuel line... i realized that decent body condition of 280z is much easier to archive this.

Then I met this lady and decide to just keep one.

Engine is running strong now!


But need to work on brake and clutch now.
BMC_clutch.jpg

Brake fluid is completely leaked out down to the body and paint under the BMC area is pealed out.
I wonder what is the best way to adhoc fix paint for this area...
under_BMC.jpg


Ohh you sold her? Got it. Rust is def not a positive when wanting to drive a car you like.

#15 tamo3

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 12:17 PM

Working on rebuilding Toyota 4Runner S12W brake caliper.

One of the piston got stuck and couldn't removed.

 

I got advice from ClassicZ folks to mount caliper tot the Z to pump brake pedal to remove it.


Attached File  Brake_Caliper_Toyota4x4_mount_1.jpg   110.42KB   40 downloads

 

I realized that the spacer I got is for 240z and it's too thick for 280z.

Does anyone want to exchange Slivermine Spacer for 280z version with my 240z version?

 

Or I will sell this $90+shipping.

Attached File  spacer.jpg   18.23KB   34 downloads


Edited by tamo3, 11 April 2013 - 12:19 PM.


#16 tamo3

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 09:56 PM

Got all spare 4 suspensions from junk yard.

 

Attached File  suspension.jpg   83.7KB   42 downloads

 

I learned removing spindle pins is one of the hardest work for parting out Z.

 

Friend of mine kindly let me borrow spindle pin remover tool.

Based on his recommendation, I got yellow bottle of propane tank and big hammer from HFT.

Attached File  spindle_tools.jpg   122.78KB   61 downloads

 

Oh, boy, the 4lbs hammer is really heavy, but it's so powerful!

I was another lucky guy I can just removed spindle just using hammer with PB Blaster!

 

It didn't take 40 minutes to remove both spindles from the spare suspension :icon10:

Attached File  spindle_removed.jpg   104.09KB   51 downloads

Next thing is to remove own rear suspension to remove spindles.


Edited by tamo3, 22 April 2013 - 09:57 PM.


#17 Leon

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 08:18 AM

AH, Takashi! You lucky guy!!!

 

Both sets I've done took a weekend...



#18 tamo3

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 10:23 AM

Thanks Leon!

Most likely I will spend weeks to remove spindle pins on my current 280z since it's been sitting 10 years. I'm pretty sure it rusted... or the rubber bushing on control arm might cracked and loose, I might get lucky again :icon46:


Edited by tamo3, 23 April 2013 - 10:23 AM.


#19 Leon

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 10:37 AM

I hope you do! By the way, what is the reasoning behind the spare suspension?


Edited by Leon, 23 April 2013 - 10:37 AM.


#20 tamo3

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 11:15 AM

It's just for piece of mind purpose for Coilover conversion.

I'm looking at Bilstein coilover conversion or S13 Tein coilover conversion.

 

If I made mistake, I can use spare struts.







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