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tamo3

10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

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I just picked up 1975 280z.

Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender.

 

The goal for this project is phased project.

1. To run the engine

2. Fix minor rust

3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion

4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap.

5. Paint the car

 

Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...

post-25175-0-04911900-1362382617_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Bill, Leon,

 

Here is small update.

Before fire up engine, I did basic fluid replacement.

 

Engine oil & filter change (5 qt for $15.99 @ Pepboy)
Antifreeze coolant change (10 qt for $14 @ Pepboy)
post-25175-0-35597200-1362416925_thumb.jpg

I bought cheapest oil since this is just testing purpose. I learned that Pepboy mobile coupon is really handy and beat the price from any other auto parts shop.

Next, gasoline change.
Drain 10 years old gas... Oh, man! She pees a lot!

post-25175-0-61505200-1362416969_thumb.jpg post-25175-0-56445900-1362416975_thumb.jpg

 

Make appointment for the hazardous recycle.

http://www.sccgov.org/sites/deh/HMCD/Household%20Hazardous%20Waste%20Home/Pages/County-of-Santa-Clara-Household-Hazardous-Waste-Program-Home.aspx

 

Buy small portable gas tank and pump fresh new gas at gas station.

Edited by tamo3

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After drain oil, I opened up valve cover.

I expected camshaft might be rusted after 10 years.

 

Luckily, inside of valve cover is rust free!

post-25175-0-91014400-1362417965_thumb.jpg post-25175-0-33756900-1362417958_thumb.jpg

post-25175-0-79599000-1362417975_thumb.jpg

 

Once thing I'm wondering... My head is N42. I thought N42 has oil spray tube on cam tower, but this head does not have it.

This cam tower could be comes from N47 or later. But is it OK to combine different with them?

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Checking cam spec, look for information which cam start having internal oiler.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm This site does not mention oil hole.

 

I found information that '78 cam comes with internal oiler hole, but I'm not sure "E30" stamp on the cam tells something or not for the identification.

 

I'm not sure just using internal oiler cam with later cam tower works OK or not...

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Anyway, pour oil around camshaft, and closed valve cover and pour in rest of the new oil.

Pour in coolant as well.

Pour in new gas too.

 

 

Next thing is ignition check.

 

Swap to new battery.

Check distributor. Compare with 240z, around distributor is so crowded. It much harder to unlock the distributor cap.

Check to rotor, cap, and inside the distributor. It's looks OK condition.

 

Finally, turn ignition on! .......................... does not start engine as you expected...

 

Remove spark plug #1 and put it on the top of valve cover with wired.

Turn ignition to see whether I can see the flash on the spark plug. ...... No spark.

 

OK, change spark plug wire to NGK RC-NE61, and change coil to MSD Blaster 2. I need to order Blaster 2 bracket. original coil diameter is way too big.

 

I was puzzled whether I need to put ballast resistor as same as what I had on 240z, but for 280z, I don't need it.

 

 

I will double check with wiring map later.

 

Turn ignition again to see...

 

post-25175-0-60613700-1362419900_thumb.jpg

 

:icon10:  I can see flash now :icon10:

 

Reference of MSD Blaster 2 coil onto stock 280z

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/46724-msd-blaster-2-stock-efi-l28-76-280z.htmlhttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/46724-msd-blaster-2-stock-efi-l28-76-280z.html

Edited by tamo3

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Last night, I check fuel line, whether fuel is coming to injector or not.

 

Following trouble shooting on "280z Fuel injection book" page 37,

http://4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

 

I want to check fuel pump.

In order to hear the sound of fuel pump (actually fuel dumper) I need to disable starting motor.

 

- Unplug shin line connect to solenoid on Starter motor.

- Turn ignition

 

... I can hear the fuel dumper's sound! Good, I don't have to buy another fuel pump!

 

Connect back the line and turn the ignition... Engine start revving!

 

 

 

I was surprise how easy to run the engine that hasn't been running after 10 years.

Since it was late night, I just shut off engine within 2 mins. The cold idle is still unstable, will check it back this weekend!

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240z... hmmmmm.... I sold her....

She has two major cancer. Once is floor pan on passenger's side and the other is rear hatch lid.

 

I was planning to mount R200, L28, install fat fuel line... i realized that decent body condition of 280z is much easier to archive this.

 

Then I met this lady and decide to just keep one.

 

Engine is running strong now!

 

But need to work on brake and clutch now.

post-25175-0-07856500-1363191359_thumb.jpg

 

Brake fluid is completely leaked out down to the body and paint under the BMC area is pealed out.

I wonder what is the best way to adhoc fix paint for this area...

post-25175-0-97850400-1363191570_thumb.jpg

 

 

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240z... hmmmmm.... I sold her....

She has two major cancer. Once is floor pan on passenger's side and the other is rear hatch lid.

 

I was planning to mount R200, L28, install fat fuel line... i realized that decent body condition of 280z is much easier to archive this.

 

Then I met this lady and decide to just keep one.

 

Engine is running strong now!

 

But need to work on brake and clutch now.

BMC_clutch.jpg

 

Brake fluid is completely leaked out down to the body and paint under the BMC area is pealed out.

I wonder what is the best way to adhoc fix paint for this area...

under_BMC.jpg

Ohh you sold her? Got it. Rust is def not a positive when wanting to drive a car you like.

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Working on rebuilding Toyota 4Runner S12W brake caliper.

One of the piston got stuck and couldn't removed.

 

I got advice from ClassicZ folks to mount caliper tot the Z to pump brake pedal to remove it.


post-25175-0-72476800-1365711164_thumb.jpg

 

I realized that the spacer I got is for 240z and it's too thick for 280z.

Does anyone want to exchange Slivermine Spacer for 280z version with my 240z version?

 

Or I will sell this $90+shipping.

post-25175-0-57963200-1365711453_thumb.jpg

Edited by tamo3

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Got all spare 4 suspensions from junk yard.

 

post-25175-0-94700200-1366678985_thumb.jpg

 

I learned removing spindle pins is one of the hardest work for parting out Z.

 

Friend of mine kindly let me borrow spindle pin remover tool.

Based on his recommendation, I got yellow bottle of propane tank and big hammer from HFT.

post-25175-0-85688000-1366696277_thumb.jpg

 

Oh, boy, the 4lbs hammer is really heavy, but it's so powerful!

I was another lucky guy I can just removed spindle just using hammer with PB Blaster!

 

It didn't take 40 minutes to remove both spindles from the spare suspension :icon10:

post-25175-0-78043600-1366696617_thumb.jpg

Next thing is to remove own rear suspension to remove spindles.

Edited by tamo3

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Thanks Leon!

Most likely I will spend weeks to remove spindle pins on my current 280z since it's been sitting 10 years. I'm pretty sure it rusted... or the rubber bushing on control arm might cracked and loose, I might get lucky again :icon46:

Edited by tamo3

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Got it. So if you're using the spares then why remove and disassemble the current suspension? Why not leave it be and then swap everything over once you finish the coilovers? I think if you take your time and practice patience, you won't mess up. ;)

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Thanks Leon,

I might leave current suspension as is right now. Over the weekend, I was working on fixing brake and Clutch Master/Slave.

 

I kept try to bleed brake line just pumping brake pedal over and over. It was good exercise. I don't know how many time I step on the gas pedal. More than a couple of thousands times?

 

Then I realize there is a tool for helping bleeding line.

I bought HFT Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder for $25. I can connect to air compressor to bleed line so easily!

post-25175-0-49735900-1367257188_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-44261600-1367257195_thumb.jpg

 

 

Finally, I could've removed all the pistons from Toyota 4x4 caliper!

post-25175-0-12385700-1367257206_thumb.jpg

 

However, I couldn't get rid of air bubble and realize my 40 years brake rubber hose has crack...

post-25175-0-95838700-1367257327_thumb.jpg

 

I need to change this too..

post-25175-0-09797500-1367257320_thumb.jpg

 

 

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It's getting worse... :malebitch

 

After replacing clutch Master and slave and rubber hose and bleed it, I realize there is no traction from clutch withdraw lever.

 

What is the easiest way to trouble shoot this?

Do I need to remove engine?

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Hi spitz17,

 

Oh! You are the one! Your blue Z is so shinny nice!

A lots of try and error of my restoration since this is the 1st time(actually 2nd time if I include 240z?).

I don't have any experience of mechanical engineering, I learned everything here and classic Z and some Japanese magazine.

I try to update my progress, hope my try and error will help someone who is looking for solution for similar issue.

 

Great progress tamo!

 

I believe we met briefly at the Shokuji J-tin gathering last week (I had the blue Fairlady Z).

 

Looking forward to seeing the progression of your car.

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