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tooquick260

Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning

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Thought I would actually post my build in the project section since this is a project.

As the story goes my 1995 240sx was stolen on 10/21/12. Had SR20DET S15 with the S15 6speed, Nistune ECU management. Tomei 272/272 cams. 750cc injectors, Z32 MAF. AEM tru-boost controller. Ran the J30 dif with abs sensor that I used with a Digital decoder to convert signal for the speedo. Full gauge setup last tune done on the car in July put 305 HP to the rear wheels at 15lbs of boost. Car had working A/C. Fortune 500 coilovers, Isis rear adjustable suspension. Paint and body work done in July as well, Navan front bumper, side skirts and rear valiance.

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Here is a dyno pull!!

http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20110923_162204.mp4.html

Here is a run at the track!!

http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/1995%20Nissan%20240sx/20120113_185224.mp4.html

The gray 240 is a friend of mines, He runs deep into the 11's at the track makes 390hp runs sticky drag radials all with A/C!

Car was recovered 3 days later stripped. Did not have full coverage, my stupidity.

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Makes ya sick.


Now onto the next project. Found thru the internet in Salt Lake City Utah. Car originally bought by person when living in California. Car was originally green and repainted in the early 80’s red. Late model 1974 260Z. Car had updated DGV carbs installed. Western Star wheels and headlight covers with a rear deck louver.


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Car ran great for short trips to work and out. But my first road trip to a car show about 60 miles away the car overheated on the freeway cruising at 70mph. So switched out for a new radiator and thermostat.




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First upgrades was a twin pipe exhaust through twin glass packs. Sound is awesome. Power is limited. I was originally going do a head swap, raise the compression and run triple 2 barrels. I wanted to get 200+ hp. After driving the car for 3 months and missing the pull of a turbo, I decided to do a turbo. Didn’t help that a close friend drives a Golf daily with 400+ hp to the front wheels and owns a tuning shop. I decided from research (not deep enough to add a turbo to the 260Z motor because I am over 4 times that cost so far and still counting). Looking it over I thought with intercooler and buying all the parts that I could do this with only about $1500 out of pocket and I would have a turbo driver! HAHAHAHA.....

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Plans are to be a driver with some track use. Here are some of my trips to time attacks and road course racing.

http://s158.photobucket.com/user/melbellwood1/media/Tooquick260z/20130216_150116_zps0eee095d.mp4.html


At the point of putting the parts together and driving my car some issues started happening to the 40 year old car. The transmission that worked flawlessly started being difficult to put in first gear (after removal realized it was the slave cylinder no pressure). It developed an exhaust leak, thought it was the new exhaust that I installed. During removal of the intake realized that the #6 cylinder exhaust bolts were gone, yeah missing. Also the head gasket was leaking.

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I found great deals on all the parts and put them together. Turbo, ECU, AFM, wiring harness etc.


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Look at the boxes of parts WOW!

I located a P90 head and had it rebuilt and flycut. Bought some cam tower shims from Derek, member on hear from Ocala. I put new valves from the 75-78 head with some addition spring spacers got them lined up.

Before....

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After....

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Bolted to the head with cam timing done.

Cleaned the engine compartment and painted with a few coats of clear. Looks like a deep dark hole where all the money has gone. Who’s counting right!

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While this was going on my brother toasted his 1993 300zx by letting the timing belt break, can you say interference. With the tranny going bad(auto) and a/c problems and other issues he decided to part it out. So, I purchased a lot of the parts from him. Breaks, Diff, MAF, Master cylinder and booster, and drive shaft to put in my Z.

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To put all that stuff on I purchased the rear setup from TechnoToyTuning. Nice stuff. Rear Z32 diff mounts, coilovers with Tokico’s.

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Old and new clutch, I should hook now!!! Handle the projected 250 HP!

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So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke.

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He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed.


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Znke even machined the speed access hole for the S30 speedo cable. He got the 4.11 speedo gear that will work great with the Z32 4.09 rear diff.


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Tranny installed and mounted in Stock tranny mount!

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Street T installed to run the turbo oiling line.

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Electric fans installed,,,, Isis 12" fans

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Stay tuned for the process.......

Edited by tooquick260

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Awesome!

 

You and I are basically at the same stages of development. That's awesome!

 

excited to hear it fire up the first time. Your plans are to run the stock eccs system, Initially?

 

or to go standalone later on?

 

 

In for later :)

 

 

I am using the stock ecu and afm now. I wanted to do this on the low budget but as my dad said take your highest guess double it and then add an oops factor!

 

That's pretty gnarly!  Wonder how fitment of the miata tranny into the S30 chassis.  Plans for the driveshaft?

 

 

Once you cut and meld the 2 bellhousing, it slides right in. On the passener side there is a clip bolted to the S15 tranny for the breather hose that gets in the way of the chassis mount, just have to unbolt and get the tranny lined up to the motor input shaft in the fly wheel your done. The S15 6 speed tranny is used in the Japanese version of our  Nissan 240sx, its called the Sylvia. This model started in 1999 had this tranny which is made in the US mated to the SR20DET with VVT(Variable Valve Timing). Tranny also used in Mazda MX-5. 

 

The drive axle is being made. It is 31" from the front of the Diff to the seal in the back of the tranny. I am scavenging the ends from my brothers 300zx. It was an automatic and the slip sleeve matches on the front of the 2 peace drive axle and then use the rear of the axle. New drive shaft will be 1 peace.

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Not much to report. Took the intercooler pipe elbow and blow off valve to a friends. He welded in the adapter for me.

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Had him weld in a oil bung for the turbo drain line.

 

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Mounted fuel pump, fuel regulator and surge tank. Ran the fuel lines.

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Getting closer, the list is getting shorter.!

Edited by tooquick260

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Ok had to travel to (drive that is) to Rhode Island, Conneticut and the other states it takes to get there from here. 

 

First when I got the mustache bar and diff front mount I thought I could use the stock rear drop downs. But using the techno toy tuning peaces does not allow this as the drop downs and dog bone do not clear the rear of the Z32 Diff. So had to order those along with the dog bone from Techno Toy Tuning. That solved that problem.

 

Another problem using the Techno Toy Tuning rear diff mounts with the stock rear lower control arm is clearance. I had to do about a 1/4 inch of clearancing on the passenger side top rear control arm. Being that the right and left control arms are identical, with the way that they are made one side has a lip that sticks up where the other side sticks down. This means on the one sticking up interferes with the axle bolts. I just took a cutoff wheel and nipped it.

 

 

Got the Z32 rear brakes on utilizing the parking brake. I have the parking brake cable laid out and altered the adjust mount in the tunnel to accept the Z32 cables. This will allow them to be adjusted for the brake handle as well as still doing adjustments in the rear rotor for the internal brake shoes.

 

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While doing this I am replacing all the bushings. Really a pain but will be worth it! I am using some 5 lug Z32 N/A wheels running 225/45 tires. Had to use 4 to 5 lug spacers

 

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Have some more updates that I did today will post as soon as I can

Edited by tooquick260

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I am testing different style designs for colors on the valve color. I tried this red, its Aztec Red from Nissan. To orangy.

 

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So decided to just go with aluminum look on the Turbo lettering. I am going to paint the Nissan a brighter red. Then paint the outside line red, and polish the inside line like the Turbo is. I will update as it goes!

 

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i took the ball part of the throttle joint and drilled a hole in it, the one that is on the top of the accelerator pedal. then ran the throttle cable end through there. 

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Ran the T off of the oil sender outlet from the block for the pressure side of the turbo. I am using a -4 steel braided line in and a -6 to dump into the oil pan! Yes i am going to replace the kinked 90!

 

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More to come, I am home for  a few more days. The car is a roller. I should be picking up the drive axle in the next 2 days. Will post the install of that. Then finish the wiring and add fluids. Can you say fire in the hole I am ready!

Edited by tooquick260

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Ok more progress today but went backwards as well. As posted above I had the whole suspension in, brakes on mounted just waiting on the drive axle. The right rear wheel has about a 10% tow in and about 20% camber inward as well. I have fully adjusted the top mount of the Techno coilovers as far as I can. I am still running stock lower control arms and determined that I need adjustment. So tax money came in today and went right to Techno for there lower contol arms. They will be here Friday!

 

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Edited by tooquick260

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Ok, I have done more research and figured out that one wire was the 02 sensor wire. Other wires are connectors for the fuel pump relay which I don't have. Other one is the accessory relay holder with the fuel pump (green) plugged into it,,, wrong of course. The coil "T" looking wire plug is for an ignition on wire suppose to be a black with white tracer, the other leg side is a yellow with white tracer that goes to pug 2 on the main harness.

Does anyone know where to get or have an accessory relay?

I followed this diagram to a "T"

 

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Thanks to Nismopick on the other z blog site! Lots of information.

 

Edited by tooquick260

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Here are the installed lower control arms.

 

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Thanks for the pics. I noticed you didnt use any of the washers? how is it driving? everyone i have spoken to is telling me they are a must

Edited by CrayZ

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The washers are used to position the wheel forward or back in the wheel well. They go between the spindle and the "jam nut assembly" for lack of the proper term.. (the spindle pins slides through them) check out ZT-R's build thread he has pics of his installed

Edited by CrayZ

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Ok onto my not running issue. i am getting a different AFM to see if the problem persists. Other issues of way too much fuel. i think I need to pull the injectors and replace the o-rings. Just in my attempting to start the car maybe 15 times and a total run time of about 45 seconds I have fouled 2 sets of plugs.

 

With to much fuel would that make the vehicle not run or start and not run almost like it is flooded? When I changed the plugs the first attempt and car started and ran the best it has ever run since trying to start.

 

While I am waiting for the AFM, I am pulling the oil pan to redo the turbo drain pipe(was leaking anyways at the front 2 bolts under the oil pump) Have a -6 and going to go with a  -10 (3/4 ") inner diameter. Should be overkill but dont want to do it again. 

 

Any other ideas on running issues?

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Thought I was so close..... Always one more thing and something you have to redo.. Here is the final update for the week.

 

Still dont have the car running, have bought another AFM.

 

 

Took injectors out and checked all the "O" rings. They are all good. Checked the new plugs and they look clean. Have the fuel pressure dropped as best as I can tell to mid 30lbs.

Edited by tooquick260

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