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'73 G-Nose 5.3/T-56 Work In Progress

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So I picked up a pair of rear Brinkworth flares and taped them to the side of the car to see just how little my wheels/tires fill them out... I've got about 1.5" to work with to be more flush, so I'm going to buy two lower offset 15x10 wheels to replace the x8's I have now.  I think the 235/50 Toyo R888 will look better on a 10" wide wheel anyway, they bulge quite a bit on the 8s.  That should fill out the flare nicely.  The front mystery flares just needs a bit of spacer to fill out, and of course it could always be a lot lower. For now the flares will be painted black.

 

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Is this vid with open headers? What are your exhaust plans?

 

Yep, still open headers and obnoxiously loud.  I'm having no luck getting any of my buddies to trailer the car 15 miles to where I work (a co-worker is going to fab my exhaust).... so I'm working on getting a clerical error on the title sorted out with a notary and as soon as I have a license plate I'm just going to drive it there.  I am doing dual 3" stainless all the way back with a Summit racing x-pipe kit, universal high flow cats and Spintech super pro street mufflers tucked on either side of the fuel cell and 4" rolled tips.  I had Spintech's on my 04 GTO a few years ago and it sounded fantastic, I'm hoping this car will turn out similarly.  Its probably a surprise to most people that I want to run cats, but I think the LS engine sounds waaaay better with cats, not nearly as raspy.

 

Awesome looking car!  I like the color you picked.  Good luck with getting everything wrapped up and hope to see you enjoying the car this summer!

 

Thanks, its actually the color/paint I bought the roller with.  I would like to someday do a full color change.

 

I rolled the car outside and knocked the dust off over the weekend, realized I didn't have any decent pictures of the outside.

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Tail-light panels installed... I can't wait to see this view with exhaust tips!

 

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Dash, gauges, steering wheel:

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Hilariously tall shifter handle.  This is clearly not a show car, but I would like to do something different with the dash center panel eventually.  Still yet to place headlight switch and a couple other things there... In the background you can see the American Autowire Hwy 9 fuse panel. I've been very pleased with this kit - once I've tidied up all the wiring and don't feel embarrased by its messiness I'll take some pictures.

 

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LED lights added to gauges:

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One of my LEDs was dead so the volt gauge has the original AutoMeter bulb for now:

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The rear hatch area is pretty much done.  I have the side panels and taillight panel that I bought new when Black Dragon was going out of business, still need to install them, but I'm waiting until the wiring is 100% done.  I went to Lowes and bought a cheap 4x6' heavy rubber-bottom carpet mat and cut out for the rear floor.  Cheap, durable, possibly will deaden some sound.  Still want to do something with the strut towers as well.

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Speaking of the rear hatch, I never mentioned that I just bolted the stock hatch on for now.  My fiberglass hatch needs a lot of work and I don't feel like working on it right now.  The car is so close to driving, I just put this back on and mounted it with hood pins (the original latch was shaved by the previous owner).

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I bought a pair of these Trackspec hood vents to replace the vents currently in my hood.  I don't really know why, but I really don't like the vents and how they stick up - I think these flush mount vents will look much cooler.  They're arriving tomorrow via UPS, so I'll probably get the hood cut out for these soon:

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This is off-topic but I wanted to share a story about a chance run-in with another Z owner.  Back during the Thanksgiving holiday 2016, I visited some family in San Antonio, TX.  I was at my cousin Tim's house, showing him pictures of my car, and he said his neighbor had a bunch of Z cars in his basement.  Of course I was intrigued, and he suggested we walk down the street and knock on the door.  We caught the neighbor, Trey, on his way out the door... but he was super cool and gracious and took me down to the basement for a minute and I was STUNNED.  The guy has four Z cars under his house (and a plethora of parts).  Not the least of which was an immaculate right-hand-drive 240ZG, he told me he purchased it from a guy in the Air Force that brought it back to the States.  I'm only just now noticing the later taillights.  He also had a black L28 turbo 280z, an early series 1 awaiting restoration and another complete car that I believe he said was his first Z car he'd had since the 80s and had logged something like 300k miles.  Maybe he's a member on here? I assume he's known in some Datsun circles but I didn't get a chance to ask.  Needless to say, it made my trip!

 

It was pretty tight in there so I didn't get the best pictures, and kicking myself now for not getting a group shot or one or two of his other stuff.

 

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I got the Trackspec hood vents today.  They're pretty sweet pieces, but then they better be for the sticker price.  The ones I bought are supposed to be for a 1st gen Camaro.  They fit nicely too, and I'm in love with the look versus the old ones:

 

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Woo! Another Charlotte/Raleigh V8Z!

 

I hope to be at upcoming C&C meets in CLT and LKN :)  Apparently there were like 5-6 Z cars at the last LKN event, but I was in the garage running wiring.

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I really dig those vents on the hood!  Did you have to cut out any structural bracing on the underside?

 

Nope! They just barely fit inside the structural bracing, though I did have to drill through the lip/edge of the underside bracing for a couple of the rivets on the outer edge of each vent.  My hood is fiberglass, but the inner structure looks identical to an OEM metal hood.

Edited by Domesticated

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calZ    1

Also, would you please reveal the model / part # of those fine vents.  http://trackspecmotorsports.com/

 

Thank ya

 

If they're for a 1st gen Camaro like he said, then they would have to be these: http://trackspecmotorsports.com/shop-by-vehicle/camaro/first-generation-camaro-67-69/1st-generation-camaro-t1-hood-louvers.html

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Is that the ride height you plan to run? I wouldn't install the flares till your ride height is established.

 

No, I do plan to get coilovers and lower the car further, so no drilling or cutting until that happens.  I don't think the rear needs to go much lower with the Brinkworth flares, but the front does need to come down quite a lot.  I've got another car I'm hoping to liquidate soon to get some suspension parts and CV axles.  I plan to get a coilover that doesn't require weld-on camber plates; really wish I had bit the bullet on those before I painted the engine bay lol.

 

If you get a chance, can you give a length by width measurement on those vents. Very cool project by the way.

Jim

 

They are about 9 x 14.5"  I don't know why Trackspec doesn't put this information on their website, it would be nice if they would share the templates in PDF so you could lay them out on the car before buying.

 

Also, would you please reveal the model / part # of those fine vents.  http://trackspecmotorsports.com/

 

Thank ya

 

Correct, they're the 1st gen camaro t1 set.

Edited by Domesticated

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Today was exhaust day!

 

Materials:

JTR headers w/fabbed 3" 90-degree turnouts (were already on car)

Summit Racing ball/socket flanges (stainless steel) 

Thunderbird (ebay brand) 3" universal high flow cats (4" OD, stainless, I'm running cats to cut down on rasp)

Pypes 3" X-Pipe "trans tunnel" kit (stainless steel)

(4x) Summit Racing 90* mandrel bends (stainless)

Spintech Super Pro Street mufflers (#9441, mild steel)

4" polished tips (rolled, slanted edge)

 

I think it turned out really well and I couldn't be happier with the sound.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

A few updates, still waiting for title to come in from the state and I am hoping to have it this week so I can finally register the car.

 

I wanted to use an old-school foot operated dimmer switch and needed somewhere to mount that, so I went to a local Nascar parts recycling warehouse (SRIperformance.com - check them out if you're ever in the area) hoping to find something with dimple-die holes in it that I could retrofit as a dead pedal.  I did find a bracket that worked great, though the holes weren't dimple died.  I think it turned out great, and it is very comfortable for my left foot.

 

Dead pedal!

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I got all the wiring finished!  All lights, horn, turn signals, etc... are now functioning including a 3rd brake light and way too bright license plate light (both LED strip).  I found that the stock headlights were super dim, so I replaced the sealed beams with Hella H4 housings.  High beams look great now, low beams still very dim.  I don't think they're getting full voltage, either a wiring issue or something with the headlight switch or dimmer switch.   I may need to re-wire the headlights with relays so they have a good clean 12v source... will look into that further soon.  I can live with it for now.

 

Lit up:

 

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3rd brake light!  LED strip light, 1/2" aluminum 90* stock, and some brake light lens repair tape for a makeshift "housing"

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New H4 headlights:

 

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Heat shields/mats on catalytic converters, driver side touches floor, needs some finessing of the exhaust to be perfect.  Floor is noticeably cooler.

 

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I bought 10" wide rear wheels to replace the existing 8s, to get the most out of the 235 tire and fill out the fender flares a bit more.  They came in last week, so I got the rear tires switched over.

 

15x10 -25 et

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Front 225 on 8" vs Rear 235 on 10" width:

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On car:

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I decided that there isn't much room for adjustment or creativity when mounting the Brinkworth rear flares.  They pretty much have to go in one spot, so I went ahead and mounted them.  They still need some work to be perfect, but I am not going to waste a ton of time on them until I do the bodywork and repaint the entire car.  A quick scuff and flat black for now.   I've also painted the rocker to match up to the rear flare, and continued the red pinstripe from the front bumper.

 

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It really, REALLY needs coilovers now...

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And, when I was cutting up the rear quarter panels, I found a sickening, scary amount of bondo :(  Never had a magnet on the car before, seems the rear quarters are by far the worst spots, I can feel magnetism about everywhere else on the car.  The driver side had at least 3/8-1/2" of bondo over the wheel arch, the passenger side not as bad but still easily a 1/4"...   Some of you will probably cringe at my metal work here, I wasn't able to weld the inner fender sheetmetal to the rear quarter, so I riveted it together and covered with seam sealer.  After finding all that bondo and repair work, I really didn't have the drive to do it really nice.

 

First cut, this isn't a good sign... cutoff wheel goes pretty far before striking metal!

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Chunk of bondo I chipped off:

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Drivers side, yeah that's quite a lot of bondo...

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Cut, hammer, fold, and rivet together.  Cover with seam sealer.  Works for me.

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Custom Datsun/Bowtie horn button.  I forgot to take a picture in the car.  Purchased from revlimiter.net

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Coming up: Brake overhaul and CV axle swap.  I have on order new rotors for all four corners and Hawk HPS pads, should have that stuff this week.  For CV axles, I'm doing Z31T axles with flipped cages and modified stock companion flanges.  I bought a pair of 280z 27t spline stubs, and sent the companions to a guy on facebook to weld the adapters on.  Several v8 guys drag racing with these, they should be plenty strong for me... at least as strong as the stock stub axle! I still need to buy new wheel bearings and stub axle nuts, then I'll get to doing this swap.

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Z31T axles bought locally, in pretty good shape.  I am hoping that flipping the cages will be enough, if not I'll get shorter axle shafts.

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I want to lay the rest of my LMC sound control mat in the floor, get some on the firewall and in the doors, then I need to get some carpet in the front and on the trans tunnel.  I also need to install the panels in the rear of the car to cover the inner fenders and taillight area, and a few minor details like that.  But mostly, she's ready to drive!  I need to work on the tune a bit more, and I may get a Tilton 7/8 clutch master cylinder.  I'm not liking the 3/4 CNC master I currently have.  The engagement travel is fairly short, and the pedal is stiff toward the bottom of its travel, which I think is the rod going into the master less than straight. 

 

Oh! And Friday I am getting the windshield replaced. A friend of mine is a windshield installer, said he could get one and quoted me $220 installed so I am pulling the trigger on that!

Edited by Domesticated

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Miles    32
Posted (edited)

Re: Headlight Issue

 

There is a headlight relay harness developed by a HybridZ member named Dave that you can purchase from him or at MSA.

 

It is plug and play so no wire cutting/splicing.  Allows full voltage to your headlights and the use of higher wattage bulbs.  It also takes the load off of the  light switch.

 

Dave's website: http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/

 

MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651

Edited by Miles

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Posted (edited)

Re: Headlight Issue

 

There is a headlight relay harness developed by a HybridZ member named Dave that you can purchase from him or at MSA.

 

It is plug and play so no wire cutting/splicing.  Allows full voltage to your headlights and the use of higher wattage bulbs.  It also takes the load off of the  light switch.

 

Dave's website: http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/

 

MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651

 

That is pretty cool, but I don't actually have any factory wiring and I am not utilizing the column mounted combo switch.  All the wiring was ripped out and replaced with a universal hotrod harness/fuse panel, and I am using a GM-style headlight switch.  I will probably make something like that for my car using a relay when I have time and want to mess with wiring again.

Edited by Domesticated

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Even with the GM style switch use relays.  Cheap ones from the parts store work fine.  We found the breaker in the GM switch would trip after long loads.  Nothing like driving at night and the headlights go out.  They come back on when the breaker resets.  JMHO. Richard. 

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Even with the GM style switch use relays.  Cheap ones from the parts store work fine.  We found the breaker in the GM switch would trip after long loads.  Nothing like driving at night and the headlights go out.  They come back on when the breaker resets.  JMHO. Richard. 

 

That sounds like tons of fun.... not!

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Not really, Just run 2 relays to the harness where it splits the headlights from one wire to two.  It could be done at the dimmer switch if desired.  Run a battery wire to the relays and then just cut the wire to act as a trigger, 4 spade connectors and a ground wire and done.  JMHO, it is worth unless going to LEDs real soon.  Richard. 

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Not really, Just run 2 relays to the harness where it splits the headlights from one wire to two.  It could be done at the dimmer switch if desired.  Run a battery wire to the relays and then just cut the wire to act as a trigger, 4 spade connectors and a ground wire and done.  JMHO, it is worth unless going to LEDs real soon.  Richard. 

 

No, I was referring to the unreliable factory style turning off in the middle of the night!

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