Nice to see some progress. What short shifter are you using?
Posted 09 April 2017 - 05:07 PM
I honestly cant remember but ill dig around my files and see if I can find the company. It was a OEM shifter modified to shorter throw.
Drove it around runs a smidge lean off idle but out of idle and actual driving its not bad. Noticed oil pressure was alarmingly low (2js tend to run at about 5psi or so t idle) So decided to do an oil change. Went from 5w30 to 10w40 and it improved oil pressure. Since it was broken in there were plenty of metallic flakes, hopefully improves now. Did find a rubber piece in the oil, not sure if the oil pan was entirely clean or a piece from the head maybe dip stick grommet. I do have a vac leak of some sort as it stalls the car at a light or a stop. I think from the Tial BOV. I ordered the softer spring and O-ring, so I will monitor that once the parts come in.
Other wise the car runs but still needs refining.
Any ideas on improving fuel tank sloosh? I stuffed it with the foam but left the center open because of the float level for the gauge. So the gauge goes all over the place. Are there better systems or foam that wont interfere with the float.
Posted 09 April 2017 - 10:25 PM
Posted 10 April 2017 - 11:23 AM
I'm assuming you are using a fuel cell?
You just kind of get used to it. Really you only need to know when you start the car or are cruising. When you are on the throttle all the fuel goes to the back if you have a bottom sump so not a problem when you are breaking hard it might be bad if you are really low on fuel.
If it is bothersome you can add a baffled box to keep the fuel level more consistent around the sender, but performance wise that won't help in any way and would require quite a bit of fabrication.
Wouldn't you want a stronger spring for a loose BOV?
Posted 10 April 2017 - 03:26 PM
I was searching and found a tube style fuel sender which is great, but expensive $100. Compared to a float style its a tube and wont jump around as much.
I was talking with the company that sold the fuel cell and to modify it/ install baffles its $450 for a new tank which isnt terrible as the tank alone is $250 without options. I have the foam in there but ive heard some stories how it will soon break apart with regular fuel.
Well according to the tuner he wants to tune it with a softer spring and have it open. Right now it barely opens even under wot.
Posted 10 April 2017 - 03:47 PM
I have the tube style, it has a float in it as well and will still fluctuate quite a bit.
Center gauge in the group of 3 is the fuel.
Have the blow off valve open? That would be a massive boost leak in the system. Do you mean the wastegate?
Pretty confused lol, when I had a vacuum leak the engine would rev up as it was getting more air. So the car stalling would kind of point towards a bad IACV or if you are not running an IACV then the throttle body stop. When my car without the IACV was stalling I just turned the idle stop 1/2 a turn out and raised my idle from 600-900 or so and that solved the problem.
Edited by seattlejester, 10 April 2017 - 04:13 PM.
Posted 10 April 2017 - 04:49 PM
Nice cruising! Well yours does fluctuate but mine goes from full to empty to 1/4 and stops at the last point so its really hard to tell whats in the tank. I figure a tube style would also allow me to put more foam inside the tank since the middle is exposed due to the float arm being in the way.
No I dont mean WG I was told bov. I really didnt understand why he wanted it that way also but who am I to argue a professional tuner lol. I purchased the spring he preferred and I will install it and he will have to re-tune it the way he wants it to act. The bov didnt have an o-ring on the vband so that did have a leak but im not sure for his reasoning on the spring, maybe he means open with some throttle as opposed to not opening at all.
I suspect the no iac is doing something but when I ran the car at his shop it was fine. When i blip the throttle it wants to stall out but it idles perfectly at 850 so cant go to high on idle. Im waiting for the parts to really see what happens afterwards.
BTW your AFR's are perfect! mine is a bit lean idling and off throttle but on throttle its solid.
Posted 10 April 2017 - 10:25 PM
After reading about the foam deterioration wasn't too happy with it. People talking about it gumming up prepump filters and leaving them stranded and such, but if your sender is a float type then indeed a tube type would let you cram a lot more foam into it. Although mine will read 0 when I still have 3 gallons or so in it.
That is odd, never heard of that before. Usually the BOV are pretty easy to overcome and the boost keeps them shut when you are on power, and the vacuum helps pull them open when you are off. If it is too light then it would be a boost leak, if it is too heavy then you it might not open and you could get compressor stall at most. Would be unfortunate if he meant a smaller wastegate spring and just got confused.
I mean even professionals get confused. I work with doctors and they make silly mistakes just like the rest of us. Keep us updated, curious to see what happens.
Regardless, glad to see you got a tuner working on the car! Oh and managed to fit the treadstone manifold with the turbo.
Posted 11 April 2017 - 02:08 PM
I ordered a 6in tube when my tank is 7in deep. So that 1 inch will leave 2 gallons of fuel so when it reads empty ill really still have 2 gallons which is good. So that must be what you are dealing with. I did the math with some formula. I am scared for the foam but for this year ill go with the foam and then over the winter modify the tank with baffles.
He did clarify bov not wg because i did ask. But the smaller spring I dont think will be a big deal but once installed ill start the car and see how it acts before I install the MSD coil and ignition 6a box.
Nice! Good job, i really liked that manifold but running a T3 turbo just wasnt going to work with it.
Posted 16 April 2017 - 07:00 AM
Hey guys any input would be appreciated.
Im trying to install MSD 6a with the tach adapter and SS blaster coil anyone have experience with MSD install? All the threads I searched are from 2004-2006 so all the pics are broken.
It seemed straight forward and potentially may have fried the msd unit but this is what I have going on.
Following the tach adapter I accidentally had the tach wire on the positive and potentially could have fried the unit since the lines were crossed. BUT The unit has power and when it cranks the power goes out. Potentially also had to crimp the distributor wire might have crushed it or did a poor job not too sure, im more concerned with the wiring.
My confusion is (following tach diagram) I have BOTH reds hooked up to where the ignition coil harness positive which for me is black with red stripe. The black line hooked to the "negative" of the coil for me is purple. My confusion is should I leave the black hooked up and the red lines hooked up to a switch and leave the coil harness as is with just the negative hooked up. Any help would be appreciated.
I need to get this sorted out so I can go back to Evans Tuning. He said this was preventing my car from full potential, Spark blow out after 10psi.
Thanks guys! What I plan to do is take everything off and just have the SS coil and go from there.
Posted 23 April 2017 - 11:21 AM
Well bad news for me. The motor has a knock and doing a compression test it was at most 125 and lowest was 110. Persistent knock between 1500-3k that was load and upwards not as loud but its there.
The new black bov spring did indeed help with compression surge and the msd works. The tach adapter was screwing me up. Turns out for me i didnt need it but in general toyotas need it.
Posted 23 April 2017 - 03:32 PM
That is real shitty to hear.
Looking back metal shavings in the pan was not a good sign.
What are your plans?
Posted 23 April 2017 - 04:11 PM
Lol it wasnt a good sign but ignorance is bliss and I didnt wanna believe it. I knew early on the motor didnt seem right. It was hard to pin it on a bad motor with so much of the motor having issues.
Plans are this week start pulling stuff off and have the motor pulled for the weekend. I also plan to talk with the builder and see if he'll refund the money since he just closed his shop. I feel like I can rebuild the motor but I know its a tough task and I want the motor done asap to still enjoy it for the summer, so may take it to a professional.
Curious what the oil will look like once I drain it. All im hoping for is shot bearings and salvageable crank and block. Also hope to not take it to a machine shop because that will eat up weeks.
Posted 18 May 2017 - 03:42 PM
Damn just started following and Im going to run the exact same set up as you in my 1975. '93 Ge with a CD009. Really hoping for calm seas. How was the oil?
Posted 20 May 2017 - 09:08 AM
Well small update so machine shop was able to get the short block back together in a week which was awesome. Then Today just redecked the head because found a gouge in the head which leads me to believe in the future this motor would have blown if the bearings didnt go when they did.
Also found out they didnt put a stock twin turbo head gasket in which is a 1.3mm gasket instead they put a cometic 1.8mm gasket which I didnt ask for. So with the thinner gasket it should run better off boost.
While it was at the machine shop added some ARP rod bolts and main studs since it was all apart again. Worth the extra $200 for peace of mind.
Other than that, once my friend is off we could put the motor back together in a day. So hoping to have it up and running by end of may early june.
Soliz good luck, its all about just having a good headgasket, arp head studs, rod bolts and mains if you want. Its a solid motor, I just had some bad luck. The oil was bad lots of shavings. But going to run 10w40 and for break in going to use a upgraded filter that will get all the little stuff in the motor.
Posted 11 June 2017 - 07:21 AM
So me and my buddy finally finished the motor. Took way longer than expected because of all the hurdles. Found 9 out of 24 valves to be out of spec, with 2 being double the specs. So those valves were either stuck open or closed. Crazy how the car even ran or idled the way it did, props to the tuner. But now to spend a couple days to put the little stuff back together plus have to torque the crank pulley which will be a challenge.
Also for anyone interested to know. I have a Holset HE351CW those come T3. Most manifolds now and days come T4. I had to use a spacer to fit on the manifold which made it 8 bolts to worry about. Well, I decided I wanted to take that out and cut the T3 flange and add a T4 flange. Sent it to my machine shop and the welder did a really nice job. I did all the measurements to keep my exhaust and intake the same without modding them for a lower angle. Im really happy with it and I hope it lasts. SO many people were telling me it couldnt be done, so hopefully I can shove this in there face. I only spent $180 to mod it and got the turbo for like $400, so all in way cheaper than a brand new turbo.
Ill update once I get the motor in hopefully within this week or weekend.
Posted 4 weeks ago
Finally got the car running! Turns out my distributor wasnt sync'd in so it wasnt starting. Quick look in the manual showed me how to do that, another thing the GTE doesnt have to worry about. She turned over and did the 40min break in. My friend suggested a 2hr idle break in and in the process, 30min in the fuel pump gave out :/ So ordered another Bosch 044, this time with a check valve and a shut off valve for the fuel cell. Since I didnt think that part through and fuel will go everywhere when I swap out the pump and check the filers lol.
I had the pump sitting for years in the box, so im sure it didnt help to just start using.I knew it was going out when my fuel pressure started creeping lower and lower. Had power but tap with a hammer and it kicks on. Oh well atleast the motor runs enough to do a break in! Going to aim for 500ish miles before going for a real tune and hopefully get 400hp-500hp. It made 398 at 7psi on 9 screwed up valves and a knock lol.
Posted 2 weeks ago
Installed the pump on the first of July. Drove it around 100 miles then another bump on the road, injector drive for cylinder 1 took a dump. Had spark but injector wasnt coming on and could swap it around and the injector works but the wiring seemed to be the issue. Tested it seemed good but no power from ecu. Not the first time a driver went. Spare drivers apparently are no good. Luckily someone on ebay rebuilds them, so sending it out tomorrow.
Driving it off boost its fast as hell! The welded R200 for sure wont handle it lol(I have an LSD that needs to be put together), sounds like itll blow. Car needs new tires anyway so ill let them spin. Kind of want a new fuel cell thats baffled the foam stuff will eventually clog the filter again anyways. Also the fuel gauge drives me NUTS! how can I be on E and fill up with 6 gallons on a 17 gallon tank! Looking at a classic instruments fuel link interface that has a resistor in it to really level out the fuel gauge.
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