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1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

1jzvvti toyota inline6 ar-5

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#1 joa_taste

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Posted 30 October 2016 - 12:24 PM

Sorry I didn't know i hadn't any pics added.

 

I've been kind of lurking around these forums for 3+ years. I had bought a 74' 260z with plans on swapping in a Sr20det Redtop when I had first joined in 2012.

I actually had all the key components for this swap; motor/trans set, wiring specialties harness, fuel cell, Mckinney mounts, etc. etc.

But fate had a different plan for me, because after I wrecked my sisters car, I had to sell the whole project for payment.... It was a long very excruciating/frustrating month.

Anyways, I ended up selling the redtop to a 510 owner, and luckily for me more than him, I dodged a bullet. The original owner of the Sr20 had forgot to mention it needed a rebuild. Sucks.

 

I kind of have been more low-key for a while. I had bought a daily turbo AWD Volvo wagon, and did some minor bolt-on/suspension components. I thought this would hold me over forever, pfftt sike, I had a creeping lingering of wanting to go fast and stupid…. but European parts aren’t the cheapest. So I started searching for another project. I really wanted a Mk3 supra. When I were a bit younger I had one but couldn’t afford any upgrades, and after the second blown head gasket I tapped out.

So after searching I found a cheap shell that already had some chassis upgrades in Cali, it came with a r154 no motor, Tien coilovers and a clean title/paint. So I offered a deal and a date to pick it up that weekend, but when the day came the guy had sold it already.

-__-.

 

So my roommate had a friend that was selling a Datsun 260z. He hadn't posted it yet and wanted to sell it "cheaper" to friends of friends if that became the case. At first I said no because I didn't want to deal with the rust, fuel tank, Blah Blah. I thought about it for all but 10 minutes and curiosity killed that cat, quick.

I told my buddy you know what let’s go take a look, what’s that going to hurt.

 

Come to find out this guy put some good money into the car already. All four Willwood brakes, Rota Grids, BC suspension, new tie rods, new bushings, Mishimoto Rad, Pertronix Ignition, the list goes on. He even had a box with misc. parts that had triple carb’d short plenums. All for $2000. So I ran to the bank before he could change his mind. I mean yes it has rust of course but, only issue was since he had upgraded to the Pertronix/Flamethrower unit he couldn't get it started. 

Lol it also had no steering wheel, no seats, no electrical I.E no turn signals or headlights. So i bought a Grip Royal, put a spare seat, and wired in some lights.

 

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Got it running but I wanted something faster. At first I wanted to do a RB series motor, for the longest I thought of a Rb20 was the way to go. Then of course after dooming myself by watching youtube vids of swaps, I said why not get a RB25. I didn't want to do a swap and feel like I did the wrong swap, and not be satisfied….So then I contacted NASA and starting inquiring about jet engines….lol Just kidding.

Then for some reason I started looking into the JZ class, I think it was because deep down I’ve always wanted a 1.5jz MK3 supra. IDK, but when I looked over the 1j/2j swap for dummies that’s a sticky on this forum and, the countless info it had, I knew the 1j was a great idea. So I picked up a 1j-vvti out of a jzx100 from an airman who recently moved here.

It was still in the crate when I bought it. He actually had a few motors in his garage, two rb25s, a dismantled 2jz non-vvti, and a complete 1j-vvti which I bought.

 

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I almost went LSX but I wanted to keep it JDM, now that I think about it, a diesel turbo would’ve been pretty sweeeeeeeet.

 

Anyways after I got the 1j I let it sit in the garage for a bit. I figured I could buy a r154 later, not knowing how much they have gotten since they’re so sought after.

 

Before I started the swap I wanted to start doing things to the chassis.

When I bought it I thought it were the coolest looking car you’d see, like mad max style. I loved how it looked. But deep down I felt like the car wasn’t something I created. Like when I would get compliments, I felt like I was driving someone else’s project, if that makes sense. So I bought airdam/front bumper/Fender mirrors and loved the way it turned out.

 

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Made a bracket for a K-sport hydraulic handbrake. (don't mind the interior, after this swap i really need to fix this lol)

 

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Bought new wheels/zg flares Atari 15x10.5 thanks to my buddy in Reno, I bought his old set-up. I knew with the 1j, I would need more meat on my tires than just the 8". Or maybe thats what I told myself to justify buying his clean wheels lol.

 

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Gave him a clear coat and added this One Piece Anime sticker (I decided to dedicate this car to my nephews favorite anime character Sanji). I think it looks pretty cool, I feel like its kinda different. I like different.

 

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After I felt like the Rusted chassis was ready for some HP loving, I started sourcing out motor components. Went to Arizona for the rear sump oil pan, since the jzx100s come front. Hit up drift motion for some preventive maintenance parts, and did more research for this s**t show I was going to bring onto myself lol.

 

 

So when I was searching around I found countless info on the transmissions you could use over the R154. I knew I didn't want to pay for the expensive tranny I found to be not the smoothest, so I looked into the CD009, 300zx transmission, and w58(this would've been a mistake in the long run I feel). I was practically sold on the CD009, a buddy went with this transmission and told me how good this was. But, and this was a big but, I didn't want to have to mill anything down. I ended up stumbling across something interesting on the CLUBLEXUS forum and found some info on the Aisin Ar5 transmission out of a Solstice/Sky.

I kind of laughed at first, I didn't think it possible, but after doing some intense reading. I’ve found it’s a new and improved R154. Lol shifts like butter because its newer, can handle just about as much torque, and I don't have to mill down the bellhousing.

 

 

 

So I sourced one out for cheap down the road in Cali. I bought it from the 2007 Saturn sky, with the inter-trim design. If you want to go this route try and find a one pre 2006, or you’re going to have to make a bracket like it did. Which isn’t bad it just adds a few more steps.

So I had to switch from the solstice bell housing, to a 1j to r154 bell housing. It bolted right up. I would much rather do that than have to mill down my bellhousing, I did however have to dremmel my input shaft down just a few mm.

 

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Back to drift motion for some tranny components; custom pilot bearing, w58 pressure plate, w58 lightened flywheel, custom un-sprung clutch disc, rear main seal, etc. etc. This tranny/engine swap is getting pretty popular they were saying, I was on a waiting list for the custom Clutch disc for almost a month. I must say after buying the transmission, new clutch components, and even sourcing out a R200. I was still under the price of a used R154. So I bought a OBX LSD unit. After my swap is in I’ll switch to the upgraded bolts and washers.

 

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Since I had down time, I started to make brackets out of wood, big thanks to RUSSJZ-FED. I didn’t want to get stuck using the CX-racing mounts, not knowing how far I needed the motor. If you have seen this swap done before in this chassis please copy a link. I’m interested to see where it plays out.

 

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Anyways made my running mounts out of wood, and used the XJS mounts that Russ had suggested. I thought I would be sneaky and buy some 1jz swap brackets for the block/transmission for A 240sx off of Ebay. Figured it would save me time and I could always fabricate whatever I needed off of what was already made. -__- that was the wrong mistake. Out of all three parts I received, only the driver side mount worked lol. I then tried to get them to send me at least a replacement passenger side mount, which they were but they informed me that all their mounts are already premade. So do not buy this item from them, it will frustrate you and waste your time!!

 

 

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So I am at a point where I believe I’m ready to take the motor out and the new motor in.

That old motor Is as heavy as crap, jeez inline 6 cast-iron block lol, it’s a wonder how they made these motors. Ended up selling my motorset to my buddy up the street, now I have more funds for more dumbs lol.

 

 

 

Cleaned up my wiring a bit, since I had the motor out, and had hardwired my turn signals and my headlights. Started to put the new motor in and the catalytic converter was so in the way, so I cut it off. Lol. Not going to need that anymore.

 

I got all my parts for the gearbox bolted in and torqued down. Took a couple of pics for you guys to see what it looks like.

 

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So at this point I am far enough in this swap to feel like it'll be a full build thread and not the start of one. When I have time this weekend I am going to start making bridges from the motor to the chassis and see about how I need to make the tranny mount. I do however travel a bit for work, so it may take days for updates. All input is welcome, thanks for checking this thread out fellas.

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Edited by joa_taste, 25 November 2016 - 11:55 AM.


#2 seattlejester

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 12:41 PM

You're back on track!

 

I'm pretty sure the L series weighs less then the 1jz lol.

 

Are you sure on the W58 flywheel? When I looked into it, I was told to source a 1jz R154 flywheel or the depth wouldn't match.



#3 joa_taste

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Posted 31 October 2016 - 03:31 PM

Hahaha yeah! The L26 had totally destroyed my heavy duty dolly.

I read on the clublexus forum if you keep the slave master internal to go with w58 components. If you're going to use external slave master to go with R154 components.

#4 seattlejester

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 10:21 AM

Hmm interesting. I'm sure Aaron knows and you have probably done your fact checking. 

 

Seems like it will be a race between us! Keep the pictures coming.



#5 joa_taste

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Posted 01 November 2016 - 08:26 PM

I was worried at first when i first put the flywheel on. It looked like it was a bit too far. but its fine.

if you're interested heres the site i followed for my drivetrain setup.

 

Comprehensive AR5 Swap Thread - Lexus IS Forum

 

I know i have read your thread, so much great info. Keep up the good work brutha



#6 joa_taste

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Posted 02 November 2016 - 06:57 PM

So today I thought i would put the motor in and start the process of seeing how far the motor is going to sit. Also this would've been a perfect time to do my bridles from motor to chassis....

 

But my roommates brother had thought it were a great idea to pull the motor out of his RX7 today, so I had to change plans.

 

I did the wiring to my fuel pump/ hoses for fuel cell / clutch master cylinder.

 

So for the fuel cell, I went with a Jaz 12 gallon. When i was doing the swap for the SR20 years ago, I found it were a great idea to put the fuel cell in the spare tire area. So i did the exact same thing and copied what i did the first time. This time around, its a lot easier since I've done this before lol. I went with a walboro 255, for now, since im going to keep this fairly stock for awhile. After I get this bad boy running, I want to do other things before I do BPUs.

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So I had blocked off the second send on the bottom of the sump, and ran just one line to the OEM hard line. Silicone hoses are fine for me now, since im going to be stock. Ill upgrade later later. May seem a little ghetto ( put in the words of roommates) but this build is one of those fuggit as long as it works builds. Its so grimy i love it, its like whatever I throw at it, i feel it adds to the character of the car. Definitely not a look for everyone.

 

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I had also used the already placed hole in the spare tire area for the return line. So when i bought my fittings I went a little too big, so that is something I will just have to fix on another day. I went -8 fitting to 90 degree bend, and the fitting on the end is way too big for the hose I purchased. So i might buy another fitting or get a flanged hose. I don't know...

By the way, Im infamous for making little notes for myself lol. Gotta love Gaffers tape. :ph34r:  :ph34r:  :ph34r:  :ph34r:

 

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Heres where I decided to put my fuel pump. Had to use Gaffers tape yet again for the clamp lol.

 

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Added some more "character" to the car, taped off the OEM fuel tunnel. Just in case I forget or a roommate decides to take the car for a spin. I mean my roommates are dicks for taking each others cars for joy rides, but atleast they return the favor by putting gas in the tank.

 

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So I had to upgrade my Clutch master cylinder. Since i kept the OEM clutch master slave from the saturn sky.

Trying to upgrade the clutch line to a steel braided one, wasn't really ideal. First off they don't have a fitting out there to convert the line to whatever desired hose you want.

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So i had looked around the sky forums and come to find out they cut and weld to make a custom fitting... :mellow:  :mellow:  So I had to guess what...Cut and weld lol

 

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Anyways the Master had to be upgraded according the thread I've been somewhat using as a guideline for this gearbox. And the line in the cab to the actual clutch pedal took me a very very long time lol.. Well to put it back together, taking it apart was a breeze. Next time around im just going to unthread the part that goes from the master to the pedal, and then rethread the new one in.

Whoever is interested here is the site I've been using as a footprint.

 

Comprehensive AR5 Swap Thread - Lexus IS Forum

 

So I had upgraded to a 87/88 Landcruiser Master. Which of course I had to make fit. Weird thing is the bore size for the stock datsun fitting isn't metric??? 3/4 bore size for the master fit and threaded right thru ^____^. Not sure if i got lucky or not, but ill definitely take it. 

 

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On the opposing side i kept the hard line as well for this, and got a 3/4 fitting to -3 steel braided line. Which goes into the welded custom fitting, and into the Saturn Sky Clutch Slave master.

 

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Thats about all the time i had today.

I did however find a cool shift knob site via instagram, called Nostalgic Grains.. Bought one of their shift knobs, somewhat pricey but the quality is top notch.  :trippen:

 

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Does anyone know why majority of my pictures are being rotated on this site. When i take the pic its straight, even when its view from my laptop its straight. But then when it gets to this site its all bass ackwards.

 

 

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#7 joa_taste

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 09:06 PM

Update*

 

Today I was able to get the motor into the car and in place. It looks like i could've used the stock mounts and have the shifter in a position about center of the shift hole. Lol whoops should've waited. Probably could've went with the cx racing mounts.

 

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But i kept moving the motor around a bit to see the different positions and ways I could get it, and found a perfect place for it.

 

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The shifter is all the way back in the shift position, but with this being like how its now,  i like the amount of space I have in the front. Might be able to pull off using the old Rad position V mounted....Maybe....Possibly lol.

 

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Sucks tho, I must really like wasting time and effort because the only mount that I have that'll work will be the tranny mount, and yet i still want to fix it to make it fit better. 

 

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So tomorrow Ill start fabbing up better mounts for the chassis. I think ill have one of my bridals go straight from the block instead of down. 

 

 

On an unrelated note, I was tagged on a Z pic on instagram. I fell in love with this hood scoop, does anybody know what it is?

 

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#8 1969honda

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 01:52 PM

Looks like a newer gen Camaro SS center vent and hood buldge put on the stock hood or at least the Camaro vents in a universal 3-4" cowl?

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#9 joa_taste

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:51 PM

Sweet! Thanks bro I'll look into that.

#10 1969honda

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 07:54 PM

No problem! I think I screwed up though, that's the ZL1 scoop, lol. :P I've actually looked at the single row SS scoop and thought it might look decent on a Z.

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"Edited double post text, stupid tiny mobile screen

Edited by 1969honda, 12 November 2016 - 11:37 PM.


#11 InitialBoss

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 10:34 PM

Nice progress man! Keep it  up! I like the hood scoops too on that hood and Z!



#12 joa_taste

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 06:48 PM

No problem! I think I screwed up though, that's the ZL1 scoop, lol.  :P I've actually looked at the single row SS scoop and thought it might look decent on a Z.

attachicon.gif Camaro SS scoop.jpg

attachicon.gif 2014-2015-camaro-ss8-style-carbon-fiber-hood.jpg

"Edited double post text, stupid tiny mobile screen

 

I really really like that hood scoop. I need this in my life now lol.

 

 

Nice progress man! Keep it  up! I like the hood scoops too on that hood and Z!

 

Thank you!! 



#13 joa_taste

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 07:36 PM

UPDATE****

 

Sorry for the late reply, after much debating and head scratching on how to put this together with that. Or that together with this, I had went another route with the motor mounts. I drank the Kool aid and bought the Cxracing mounts that I didn't want to go with in the first place. Here's why. Hearing that some people have issues with their driveshafts not lining up going with homemade mounts, I decided to buy these.... With my luck Ill be one of the few lol. 

Maybe its just me trying to go the easy route lol.

 

Anyways since I had prematurely cut my old motor mounts <_< I had looked on eBay/Craigslist/Elist/Craigbay/ lol you get my drift, for a new crossmember. I actually found a decent looking one that came in from Colorado. Minimal rust. I think its funny im like anal about rust when my whole car is a rust can on wheels lol.

Got the crossmember in and sanded it down with my grinder and sprayed it to make it look all new. Came out pretty good if i do say so myself.

 

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Not gonna lie, this took me forever to put back on. The washers in between the part where the tie rod took me forever to put back on. I literally tried and tried, then took a walk because i were getting pissed then came back to it. Finally after an hour i got them back on and bolted in. Definitely not something I want to do again any time soon. Didn't think to snap some pics on this since it took me forever and I just wanted to be done with it.

 

So looking at my motor mounts from cxracing, I was bugging out for a little bit thinking that the actual mounts were flat mounted. You can see where you have to connect the part that goes to the block, and the little swindle looking thing theres a bolt that goes in between.

 

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I almost welded it lol, luckily i didn't do that. I literally had to leave everything loose until i got it in the right spot. Which was also a Bish because that motor is kinda wide in the Z bay so you literally have to have baby hands trying to tighten everything.

After I got the motor in looking at the mounts they aren't bad. Welds are pretty good nice polished metal.. Only thing is the motor mounts I bought didn't come with a transmission mount. Which was the easy part lol. Its super ghetto and basic but it works. lol bolted right up. Headaches over, not gonna lie i literally made like four different mounts out of wood and just didn't like any of them. So much time wasted.

 

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Anyways the suck thing about the cxracing mounts were that the tranny was pushed back a bit too far. So i cut it lol. I wasn't trying to waste more money and time getting something offline to push the shifter like 3 inches forward. After cutting the shifter position i like the feel of the shifter. It actually feels quite natural. I like this position.

 

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Also the motor sits a little too high for my cusco sway bar to go back on.....I wasn't too happy about this. There was a moment of silence for this loss lol.

 

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This is me showing my appreciation of not being able to work anymore. 

 

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Got some of the fittings in to finish the fuel set up. So i connected that, thats buttoned up. 

 

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So the next thing i had on my list was switch my washers and bolts to the rbryant ones on my OBX LSD. That went by super quick and easy. Snapped a few pics before i put everything back on.

 

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Notice the size of the washers. the one on the left is the OBX washer and the one on the right is the Rbryant washer. Noticeable difference. 

 

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So next i am going to switch out the R200 and put the R180 up for sale. Or just give it to my buddy and hope he makes some piping for me in exchange lol.

 

So next on my list of stuff to do.

-Intercooler

-source out a used turbo elbow. There is a Downpipe I've had over the years that was for my SR20 swap...It looks like with little fab it may fit. We shall see.

-Do a new oil drain feed maybe steelbraided

-bleed clutch

-Source out a driveshaft guy and get ready to pay 700+ im sure lol.

 

At the moment thats the top things on my list. Its one of those kind of lists that get bigger as it gets smaller lol. "TO DO"



#14 Geno750

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 10:03 PM

Measure the drive shaft length required and hit up shaftmasters

#15 joa_taste

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 11:35 PM

Measure the drive shaft length required and hit up shaftmasters


Nice! I'll call them up tomorrow. Thanks

#16 seattlejester

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 12:36 AM

My driveshaft was 300 or so from drivelines NW. If you send them the flanges and the measurements they can whip it up pretty easy. 

 

For the CX racing mounts, how did you bolt the pieces together? Can you slip a wrench behind the plate to tighten it once you have everything set or do you have to disassemble it and tighten it all then re-install it? I'm wondering if I will have to leave the engine on the crane while I pull everything apart to tighten the bolt/nut.

 

I think it is also stainless which is nice, on mine it definitely looked like someone mis-drilled a hole and filled it in and drilled another, quality isn't the best, but for ease it is hard to beat.



#17 joa_taste

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 09:27 AM

My driveshaft was 300 or so from drivelines NW. If you send them the flanges and the measurements they can whip it up pretty easy. 

 

For the CX racing mounts, how did you bolt the pieces together? Can you slip a wrench behind the plate to tighten it once you have everything set or do you have to disassemble it and tighten it all then re-install it? I'm wondering if I will have to leave the engine on the crane while I pull everything apart to tighten the bolt/nut.

 

I think it is also stainless which is nice, on mine it definitely looked like someone mis-drilled a hole and filled it in and drilled another, quality isn't the best, but for ease it is hard to beat.

 

I will look into them as well, thank you! I still need to get the part that bolts into the Aisin Ar5 before i do my measurements.

 

As for the motor mounts there are two points of being bolted together.

 

Attached File  IMG_4757 copy.jpg   63KB   1 downloads

 

The one to the left is the bolt that goes to the plate on the motor to the little swindle looking thing.

Then the ones to the right are from the swindle to the actual mount arms.

Lastly the ones i didn't circle are the ones that bolt down to the pre-existing motor mounts on the crossmember.

 

I used all rated bolts/nuts/washers for everything.

 

As for the second question. yes you can tighten everything down after everything is attached (which I did) but it took a little time since space is super tight. This made it very convenient with the whole not having to take the motor out, mounts off, blah blah blah. I left the motor on the crane getting them bolted up lowered it little at a time as i tightened. After I had everything in i let the motor take all weight on the crossmember, and left a jack in the rear of the car for the tranny.

 

All around he quality of mine were pretty nice. Its stainless so they don't rust, and it looks as if it were polished? Im not sure. I just wish the motor sat a little bit lower so I could use my Cusco Sway bar. Other than that im pretty happy with it, I think you will be too.



#18 seattlejester

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 11:39 AM

Excellent, I unpackaged mine to look at, but haven't fit them to the motor, sounds fairly easy.

 

You could slot or drill a hole vertically on the plate that mounts to the engine to get the motor to sit a bit lower, but I would almost rather have the engine sit taller then scrape the oil pan if that is why the spacing is the way it is.



#19 Geno750

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 11:52 AM

My one gripe with the cx mounts is the entire weight of the engine sits on two small bolts which he circled in red. I might weld those parts together after I get the engine in. It would also let me shift the motor in whatever direction I wanted too.

#20 joa_taste

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 04:02 PM

My one gripe with the cx mounts is the entire weight of the engine sits on two small bolts which he circled in red. I might weld those parts together after I get the engine in. It would also let me shift the motor in whatever direction I wanted too.

Theres an idea. I didn't think about that. I know these bolts i have are proven, so i didn't really think too much about it. I use the same bolts to rig heavier things at work. The only worry I would have would be interference with anything as far as the swindle arms go. When i was going to make my own mounts I found myself hitting a few things.

 

Excellent, I unpackaged mine to look at, but haven't fit them to the motor, sounds fairly easy.

 

You could slot or drill a hole vertically on the plate that mounts to the engine to get the motor to sit a bit lower, but I would almost rather have the engine sit taller then scrape the oil pan if that is why the spacing is the way it is.

Also true. It sits like a good 3-4 inches above the crossmember.







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