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Drivetrain swap talk

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Hey guys, with a lot of new cars out on the market, I was wondering if anyone has looked into new potential rear differential swaps.

 

I have seen a number of Infiniti G35s come up for sale for parts for very low prices. These are 3.5L V6 that come in either RWD or AWD. The rear differentials seem to be fairly priced. Curious if anything has looked into modifying one of these to fit our S30 chassis vehicles.

 

I am working on a 5.0 swap into my 77 280z that will require a much beefier rear end than my R180 open diff. Starting power goal will be around 250hp and 300ft/lbs at the wheels.

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Oh, geez didn't notice that, thanks.

 

I have done a bit of research on the rear differentials. G35s have quite a bit more power than a 5.0 puts out stock, rated for over 260hp and ft/lbs stock.

 

The 5spd MTs and ATs seem to have an open differential unless they have the tire and wheel package. However, the Open differential has an electronic system that seems to brake the slipping wheel enough to allow you to burn both tires.

 

The 6MT cars have V-LSD differentials that seem to be very stout, although I have read that hard tracking will heat up the viscous fluid and reduce it's effectiveness temporarily. There are quaife and OBX upgrades for these differentials. I believe these are the same differentials use in 350z and 370z cars which may explain the decent aftermarket following.

 

Looking up the VLSDs on ebay, I was able to find a few for around 200$.

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The G35/350z rear end is an R200 of the short nose variety. 

 

To run it you would need a custom mustache bar, forward mount, axles, potentially hubs and brakes depending on if you go with adapter or swap the rear end etc. 

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car

^ to do a full rear swap and get rid of the stub axles

Otherwise you would need the differential mounts, a longer drive shaft, and axles/adapters. 

 

If you go the adapter route, you go through all that effort and still have stub axles. The short nose r200 has more options in a way given they use the larger 12mm bolt hole, but you can run a bushing and run that same center on early long nose R200 which are straight bolt in with the curved mustache bar or you can run a later 300zx Z31 long nose which has the 12mm bolt hole to start with which means no bushings. In other words, I don't think it is worth while to swap to a short nose compared to a long nose if you aren't swapping to a hub type setup. Swapping to the correct length CV's will alleviate any problems with the axle bind and will move the weak point to the stub axles.

 

The current trend seems to be the ford 8.8 diff swap. Similarly you can swap out everything similar to the TTT kit, although wilfrit (sp) was the only one that made a full swap kit with intrepid hubs and upright adapters and I'm not sure if he is still active, so your option then is to keep the stub axles and run an adapter and axles to the 8.8 differential, which other than the ease/price of finding a good ratio and LSD the off the shelf adaptor components kind of negate the price. Granted if you have a problem down the road it will be easier/cheaper to replace.

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Last I had read, the 8.8 swap is almost just as much work as an R200 short nose, or maybe doing an IRS 8.8 is just as much work?

 

I have a perfect 8.8 for the swap, 3.73 geared, limited slip with discs. I don't really care about keeping the IRS, so if it is in fact easier and cheaper to swap in the 8.8, then I can definitely use that.

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I know everyone knows this already but 250hp/300ft-lbs is handled easily by the stock R200 long nose.  Until the 8.8 became the hottest topic, the long nose R200 was considered just fine for all mild V8 swaps and some fairly upgraded ones too.  Drag racers have run the R200 well into the 11s without issue (other than the lack of LSD options/ratios).

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I feel like swapping a V8 and a solid axle makes it seem like starting with a classic muscle car would be a cheaper start point. 

 

I mean given the skillset of a lot of individuals on here, the world is really your oyster. As long as the differential physically fits  back there, which there is quite a bit of room, you can really put whatever you want. The question then becomes how much of what drivetrain do you keep and how much fabrication you want to do. The benefit of staying stock/nissan long nose is the ease of install. Benefit of going to the shortnose is more options and generally cheaper parts as well as still serviceable readily. Going full TTT lets you get rid of the stub axles, get modern disc brakes, and use stock or stock style axles. Going IRS 8.8 lets you get dirt cheap differentials. Going wilfrit IRS 8.8 gets you the same benefits of TTT with the cheaper differentials. Doing it on your own, you are going to have to have some precision in your mounts if you don't want the diff to be mounted funny, figure out axles, and hubs. There are some people that have swapped over hubs from the drivetrain, say mustang, 240sx, bmw, etc. Most people don't go that far just out of convenience/use. 

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