So...probably time for a bit of an update I s'pose
Spent quite a bit of time trying to patch up the floor ~1 month or so just on the driver side.
Everytime I thought I was done, I'd find a little pin hole that would turn into ^
Eventually got sick of patching and decided I would play with the engine bay for a while
Tried Tal-Strip II on the engine bay, that stuff does wonders, but the warning label and ingredients mandate respirators and high ventilation.
Turned out that the roll bar interfered with the sliding action of the seat, and the steering wheel was about an 1-2 inches closer than ideal (past the wrist when seated fully back), and the head space was surprisingly bad, only to be worse if I used the sliders or wore a helmet. So...I drew up some specs for my own seat mounts.
While I was grinding out the stock seat mounts, the accidental bumps with the sawzall would tear holes where the seat mounts were mounted. So using the trusty "integrity testing hammer" we found the weak spots...bloody everywhere.
So after 8 months of trying to save the seat mounts and the floors, I decided to start over and do it right.
Managed to accomplish all this in a grand total of....1 day. Being stubborn sucks...
I decided that safety is a bloody large concern, and with the brake lines that crumbled, I really did not trust the rest of the system.
So full over haul starting with fresh calipers all around
And since MSA was having a sale, and the stock suspension wasn't going to do...
And this is how much it grew in one day, no joke
There is an equally large pile of tools at the garage waiting to be unpacked.
After finally fitting the last portion of the floor
I decided to celebrate by trying out some stitch welding
Definitely need to work on my spacing, but I was running near the end of the gas and the ground was apparently inadequate as it turned out much better when I moved the ground.
Not sure what to call him, I guess an alumni (although I still have a year to go)? Anyways he wanted to try blasting his wheels, and I said that I would be happy to supply the apparatus if he could manage to get it running reliably. After about an hour he had all the little tricks figured out. So before he came back for his next visit, my friend and I pulled the rear suspension.
The driver side brake fluid line crumbled, and the passenger side didn't even have a parking brake cable. I continually count my blessings for not having just painted the car and driving around as the PO suggested. Not sure how or if I'll be tackling the spindle pin and stub axle. The parts alone look to cost 300 (new spindles, lock pins, nuts, inner and outer bearings, seals, etc) and it's been a point of great distress in some builds I've read, so for now I'll be blasting it in one piece and use the stock bearings.
Also finally fully stripped the engine bay
My warnings and tips for front suspension removal:
*Remove the brake line before strut removal, if using new lines just cut the flexible portion.
To remove the steering tie rod, undo the castle nut and gingerly pull the pin, if the pin does not want to budge, persuade it with a small blunt nail. After the pin is removed and nut is off, use a pickle fork (tie rod separator if you want to be technical), wedge it in as far as it can go, hammer it in, and put your weight on it (do this only after making 100% sure the car is stable). If this does not help, use a block of wood or a brass bar and tap the threaded top and sides to break the grime and try again.
*When removing the tension rod, be very aware that it has...tension (surprise!) so tie something very heavy to the rod or have a friend put weight on it. Even with crumbling bushings the rod still managed to pop up right as the bolt was released.
*The stock end link has 3 nuts, 1 on top and 2 on bottom, you can remove all of them by cleverly employing a vice grip.
*The steering knuckle can be removed fairly easily. A few light taps will separate it from the strut.
*To remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, remove the castle nut and pin, then brace the knuckle and give the joint a good whack with a 2lb sledge hammer. If it starts mushrooming use brass or wood in between, I held it in my hands and tapped it with the sledge and the ball joint plopped right out.
*The strut is surprisingly weighty, be prepared when your friend takes out the last nut.
The following week my alumni friend stopped by and I got around to trying out the sand blaster.
Started with the cross member, but started running a little low on sand, so I switched to some smaller pieces
The blasted knuckle was actually the one that was worse off and look at how great that turned out!
Then a slightly more complex LCA, missed a few spots but turned out amazing.
So tomorrow I will be returning to blast the rest of the suspension and differential components as well as maybe apply some paint stripping to the larger body panels (suppose to be hot tomorrow and we found that the heat and sun make the reaction occur faster and strip more vigorously).
I thought about making a collector for the sand, but at 4$/50# it really didn't seem like it would be worth it.
The caulking gun has something called fire sealant, it's supposedly used to seal areas around pipes and can be painted over, so after the engine bay is finished welding I'll be applying this in the seams and seal everything up prior to paint.
Now for some contemplation...the driveline. I have a smoking L28 and a blown L24 (piston came up all the way, enough to mash the spark plug). So since either block will need to be taken apart, I figured I'll start with the L24 to learn a little more about what to do and not to do using the how to rebuild your nissan ohc book as a guide. After that I'll take stock of the condition of the head and the rods...then...
My potential build.
N42 L28 Block bored out to 89mm
E31 L24 Head with L28 valves
L24 Rods <- assuming they are in decent condition
KA24DE dished pistons
Fed by an SU carb using SM needles <-I'm not really sure where to get just the needles.
Should net me a solid 9:1 compression, plenty for the possible boost it will see and low enough not to worry about emissions
My friend works at an engine shop, so I'll hopefully be putting the motor together there. But they don't do machine work, so if anyone has recommendations in greater seattle I'd be more than happy to take a look.
Edited by seattlejester, 27 August 2011 - 02:27 AM.