Jump to content
HybridZ

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/24 in all areas

  1. Hi all new to the forum thought I would introduce myself. I'm an old school petrol head, as in the Ford Escort and Vauxhall viva days haha, I was born with oil in my blood the entire family are mechanics, just recently sold my Lexus is200 supercharged car so I'm now car less, hopefully I will be starting a new project soon, I also created a car magazine called stance auto magazine, a place for us all to share our car builds and modified whips, so let me extend an invitation to anyone who wants to share their car build story just drop me a DM or if you have some sik photography you want to share I also have a very popular Facebook page I can share them to for you, I'm always looking of new stuff , can you drop images below in forums, lol sorry been years since I was on a forum
    1 point
  2. A couple updates here. On Rayapp2's 81 slicktop turbo, I was able to decode and map out the 1981 turbo ECUs, those definitions are now available. The big thing here is he swapped to 60lb injectors and I successfully recoded the stock ECU for correct fueling. Found the new K value and rescaled the TP load scales and its happy. That car has further running issues that need to be solved, including the o2 swinging way more than my car does during closed loop, but the coding did its part. During this process I found a couple issues with what I was doing before, the rom chips I was using, ect. On my car I found the limits of fueling reliability on the stock AFM, which is about 200whp using virtual dyno to measure so probably inaccurate, but it should be within 10% of a real number. The boost on my car is back down to stock until I finalize a solution to make the fueling reliable. Moates has gone out of business, so my ostrich emulator is now unsupported and all the documentation is gone which is annoying. I was able to get Tunerpro working with emulation without offsetting the files, so everything gets a little easier there. Exactly how far can we go with this system? I have an idea, but its a couple months away from being fully tested. Edited 5/11 With the new lower latency W27C512 45z roms and some cheaper open source rom adapters I've eliminated a lot of bugs I used to have. With my innovate unit logging MAP RPM & o2, I can use MegaLogViewer to show some meaningful data. Actual O2 readings vs load, with a good Air Flow Meter I'm hitting close to the AFR table targets. Keep in mind MLV is displaying load as KPA from a map sensor, the load scale in the ECU is theoretical pulse width. Also here I'm battling boost drop with my intercooler and exhaust setup, so this is probably less than factory power output, but still demonstrates the efi working properly in these conditions.
    1 point
  3. Spent today packing up orders and only 5 outstanding. Looking forward to wrapping these all up once I work through the technical issues on these ones. 1. 7d2jz 2. MAG58 - PAID - SHIPPED 3. MAG58 - PAID- SHIPPED 4. Crespo79 - PAID- SHIPPED 5. Jeffrox - PAID- SHIPPED 6. jhm - PAID- SHIPPED 7. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 8. onthego- - PAID- SHIPPED 9. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 10. pepper - PAID- SHIPPED 11. ModernS30 - PAID- SHIPPED 12. Masonvonritchie - PAID- SHIPPED 13. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 14. rxx2rxx2 - PAID- SHIPPED 15. Sonethirty - PAID- SHIPPED 16. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 17. S30TRBO - PAID- SHIPPED 18. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 19. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 20. Kennysgreen280zt - PAID- SHIPPED 21. ElliottOhZ - PAID- SHIPPED 22. Oki570Z - PAID- SHIPPED 23. lowrider - PAID 24. lowrider - PAID 25. lowrider - PAID 26. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 27. jnjdragracing - PAID- SHIPPED 28. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 29. OldAndyAndTheSea - PAID 30. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 31. JonRHD - PAID- SHIPPED 32. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 33. 75280z - PAID- SHIPPED 34. CalZ - PAID 35. CalZ - PAID 36. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 37. LanceVance - PAID- SHIPPED 38. Stunt 39. Stunt 40. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 41. _akuma_no_zetto_ - PAID- SHIPPED 42. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 43. 1 tuff z - PAID- SHIPPED 44. Zlost - PAID- SHIPPED 45. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 46. AydinZ71 - PAID- SHIPPED 47. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 48. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 49. zredbaron - PAID- SHIPPED 50. airbrush-ed 51. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 52. Chris Damato (FB) - PAID- SHIPPED 53. evildky - PAID- SHIPPED 54. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 55. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 56. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 57. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 58. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 59. torqen2k1 - PAID- SHIPPED 60. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 61. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 62. Mayolives - PAID- SHIPPED 63. bkz72 - PAID- SHIPPED 64. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 65. Wizzurp - PAID- SHIPPED 66. Leon - PAID- SHIPPED 67. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 68. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 69. Gollum - PAID- SHIPPED 70. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 71. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 72. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 73. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 74. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 75. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 76. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 77. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 78. AB240z - PAID- SHIPPED 79. Zetsaz - PAID 80. Zetsaz - PAID 81. Zetsaz - PAID 82. Wedge 83. 24Oz - PAID 84. ihavearustedz - PAID- SHIPPED 85. clarkspeed - PAID- SHIPPED 86. niner11 - PAID- SHIPPED 87. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 88. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 89. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED 90. 1970 240z - PAID- SHIPPED
    1 point
  4. So a bit of an update. The engine is up for sale. Already sold the transmission as well as exhaust/cats I had. Why? Because every time I fit the engine I was faced with the reality that either I needed to change the oil pan, intake, throttle elbow out, and then buy several manifolds to see what fits, or make custom manifolds. I'd resigned to the reality that I'd just have to make manifolds. But I just don't have the time to sit down and hammer that out. It might be a 40 hour job if I could just hunker down and do it, after buying $500 worth of supplies. No big deal right? Except I simply don't get chunks of time like that (currently). I want to just finish a swap and drive the thing. So I was entirely ready to just go LS instead. Over the counter swap parts are available, so it was just budgeting the money and doing it. Selling everything would be the necessary shot in the arm to raise the capitol to just make it happen. ...excpet... ...HOLY T56 PRICES PEOPLE! I kept an eye out for over two months. Facebook marketplace. Craigslist. Ebay. I now know most of the T56/TR6060 ratio sets by heart, and I definitely had some preferences, but I had in my mind what a "good deal" would look like for various sets and nothing was ever close. If I was just tossing money at problems I'd just get a new T56 Magnum and be on my way. But that's $3600, before a flywheel, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. Then I realized that converting a K series wasn't actually as expensive as I thought it was. Started pricing everything out, and realized I could do nearly the entire swap for the price of just a new T56 Magnum. At first I was thinking I'd used the cheap and very plentiful BRZ/FRS transmission, but so many horror stories of them being wrecked. The strange thing is that so many things indicate it should be a strong transmission, and some people drift them (one of the hardest modes of abuse for driveline parts) at 500+hp without issue. I wonder if it's just a shift fork design issue. Who knows. So I shifted and started researching AP1/AP2 transmissions. Kept an eye out, and score! Paid $800. Not 100% known to be good yet, I'll have to do some inspecting before assuming, but the guy was pretty up front about his experience. He was running 700+whp and had been through several transmissions, and this was his third. It held until he did his E30 transmission swap, and then later sold the car. He said when pulled it was still shifting great and not making any noise. It then sat outside for a year (in a bag he claimed) so fingers crossed I'm not replacing bearings or synchros. The bearing prices for this aren't bad. I can get all bearings and orings/seals for under $300 shipped to my door. But the synchros add up. The 1-2 synchro is like $266 on it's own iirc. (comes as a whole assembly with the hub gear, shift ring, etc). But it gets better. The seller was also very strapped for space and trying to see what else he could toss at me, and threw this in for free: The tag was long gone, so it took me a bit to figure out what it is. It's a Precision 6262 with the Gen2 ball bearing cartridge. It has some mild turbine denting, but the housings look unscathed. Bearings have zero play (might be able to measure with a dial indicator, but can't feel it by hand) so I could probably run this as-is. But that said, I'm going to get this swap done NA first for several reasons (cost being one). Once I decide to go turbo, I can just swap in a new wheel (found a rebuild parts supplier with new wheels for $120), and voila a solid turbo pairing for this engine. Speaking of engines, I haven't gotten one yet. I had a line on one, but due to issues with the seller we couldn't meet up. He's about 2 hours from me, so not sure when I'll get the opportunity to reconnect and see if I can get a motor. But I did find this and picked it up locally yesterday: Hard to read, but that says "K to F Adapter". There are a few companies making these, ranging from $240-300 depending on manufacture and reseller, but I picked this one up for $200 and it seems like I'll have to source my own bolts and dowels. I might be able to keep that under $20 so this still feels like a deal (though I'd still have the ship the above new prices, so maybe it's not bad no matter what). I'm tracking all the parts in a spreadsheet (which I normally do anyway) and it's looking like the budget is landing around $3600. Now, there's some hand waiving in that others should be aware of. 1. I'm going to use the existing Megasquirt MS3X box I have. Getting hondata/k-tuner would easily add $600+ to this. 2. I plan to use the OEM exhaust manifold. I simply don't see any good reason not to. I don't care if I'm losing 10 or even 20 horsepower. It's worth it to me to save time and cost to just drive the thing. 3. I already had steel and bushings in stock for doing engine mounts for the 4.6. Would easily add another $50-100 that I'm saving. 4. I have no clue what the driveshaft will cost. The AP1 transmission is a fixed flange, not a sliding splined output, so I'll need to find a shop familiar with making a shaft that can give me that half in of compliance or so necessary. Also, I'll likely need to find a converter flange to go from the AP1 output to a u-joint to cancel out the vibrations from the rear R200 ujoint. As of now I've got $500 for the driveshaft solution, and that could easily go up. 5. I'm also planning to save a few buckets by using 2NRS's K to F intake flange adapter, to use a S2000 intake. The "better" alternative is the Skunk2 Ultra Street manifold which has a reversible plenum. It's $550 and then you're still needing your throttle body, fuel rail, etc. Some of these might be source able or mix-match able with OEM parts, but for $120 I can get an adapter to use a full intake/throttle pull off out of a S2000 and that solves the problem soup to nuts. And considering some people have made well over 250whp NA on the S2000 intake I'm going to say it's "good enough" for me. 6. I'm also not buying into the "use this oil pump, use this water pump, remove balance shafts" internet myth ethos. I understand why people do that, and suggest that. But a lot of people are making changes with very little implications as to the reality of the why. These are $900-1100 motors, all day long. They might go up like B series have, eventually. But for right now, they're still dirt cheap. When people like Richard Holdner go and dyno a completely stock K24A2 with balance shafts up over 8700rpm, 280+hp NA, and 600+hp boosted, you have to wonder where the failures are. And if you go looking, and find one, let me know. I know MotoIQ, 4Pistons, Drag Cartel and other big names all say the same thing. And I'm sure if I was building a 10k motor, I'd also go with a better oil pump, remove the balance shafts, and gain oil capacity as well as ground clearance at the same time. ...or I can just buy a spare motor to store in my garage. So stay tuned. I hope to have an engine in the next few weeks and start mocking things up.
    1 point
  5. Ah every time I think I understand something I learn some new information. I've uploaded a video example of how the AFR targets react over the RPM range. This may illustrate what I've been trying to explain on the lean out above 4000rpm. Also the video is slightly offset from the innovate & address tracing, but it gives you a general picture of what the afrs are at a given target. 2019-03-15 13-20-35_Trim.mp4
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...