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I am bringing this back from the dead as I am now digging into a vibration that I'm experiencing at anything above 60mph. I pulled my driveshaft and am getting an aluminum one made with spicer joints. Diff flange to rear of trans is 24" on the dot. I have already dropped off my old DS, and when it was installed it was snug, so the DS shop suggested a slightly shorter by about 0.25" I also looked into the actual alignment of my driveshaft using a laser level. The cross is about 0.75" off from center, which is just under 2*. I think that's fine, but someone please let me know if that's too much. Lastly, some general problems I have with the T3 kit after using it for 4ish years. The moustache bar hits the spare tire well, to the point that it's dented the metal. Below are the pictures, which most people don't see. It is keeping the diff inline though which is nice, but the spacing could use some work. The RT mount with a snubber also seems to have an issue that I just noticed since digging into it as well. Due to moving the diff rearwards, the snubber is now contacting the rotating pinion flange. It seems to have self clearanced, and when everything is snugged up I can still turn the flange by hand albeit with a little strength needed. I can't move the RT mount further backward due to the lip on the metal, I would have to drive that away to do that, I may try that and instead of the snubber, I will use the GM bushing that bolts to the diff. I am also going to change the front diff mount out for a T3 piece as from what I've read there is some slotting to be able to move the diff and align it better. I have recently also started the swap of my Koni struts into the strut housings, so I will post progress on that. I'll be getting new top hat bushings since one of mine just split in two when I was taking it apart, but I am essentially going through all my rear suspension at this point. The koni yellow 8641 1031SP1 is the same length and fit as the Tokico BZ3015 which is historically the strut people would use when they section the rear. I will report back with the fronts, it should be a 8641 1142 koni yellow vs a tokico BZ3099. The difference is the gland nut provided by Koni, the tokico has an inner ring that won't fit in the strut housing with the strut.

Hey Derek, you know my neighbor John at HyTech. Fun stuff. Someday a LY head if we could find the time?