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So.......it's been 7 years since my last post. The car basically sat in that drive way for a few years then pushed it in the garage for another4 years where the mice got to it. The gas in the tank and lines went to shit. I replaced the fuel pump and got it kind of running again. Obviously having the car sit outside for so long it pretty much ruined everything in the fuel system. This is where a project goes to die .....you lose interest and end up selling for cheap because it doesn't run. Well ......not this time. Last year the house where I was storing it had to be sold so I needed to find a home for it while getting it road worth again. My best friend who lives in Rochester, NY (I'm in Massachusetts) told me to trailer it to his place and we can work on it together. I know that the carbs need to get rebuilt so I decided to send them to Kyusha House. Here is the before pictures. And after Taka's absolutely amazing work.....

I don't know if you have ridden in modified Z cars, but 240Z's are LIGHT. 320 to the wheels it's basically a widow maker. Overkill on power is overkill on power. You reach a point where more power is useless, as you can't put it down, and the car is already dangerous as-is. It's a street car. With the power level you are talking about, additional bracing is necessary in the subframe and rails. Do you like reliability? Stock=reliability, modifying it for 40-50 horsepower could take away the reliability. stock 370Z engine is fine power wise bone stock for a 240Z. A lot of the modern cars with all the horsepwoer....that's in a car that weights OVER 4000 pounds. 2 tons. Completely different deal. Your weight is about half of those. Be sensible. Live Longer. And this setup....stock brakes are NOT good enough, nor is a stock suspension.

@hazesleepgod I’m in the midst of a VQ37VHR swapped 240Z at the moment, and while I’m still in the body and rust repair stage of mine I have gotten my VQ running on a palette with wiring and ECU done by Hexa Garage. Z1 sells what they call a 400hp package which is rated at the crank and most people I’ve talked to who dropped $5k on a tune, plenum, and exhaust combo (absurd price for stuff you can do if you are competent or go to an exhaust shop) said it woke the car up noticeably, but couldn’t help feel like they got robbed a bit. And some dyno charts show that the Z1 dyno results maybe on a dyno that reads high, as most purchasers dyno closer to 320 at the wheels after some dyno tune sessions. Ive put in tons of research to getting the most out of the VQ engine using NA power and ultimately one would spend thousands on the engine to reach over 400hp/tq to the wheels. The few I’ve seen doing this are dedicated race cars that need to meet class restrictions, and to get there they are going full race mode with crazy cams, oversized titanium valves, heavy valve springs with titanium retainers, heavy head porting, completely revised/custom intake plenum and lower manifold or ITB’s, and a number of other expensive modifications that require taking the engine apart like high comp pistons and even stroker kits. This equates to a car that that would be unbearable as anything other than a track car with $15-25k spent on an engine that loses a bunch of reliability because that peak power requires spinning it out to 9k RPM (lots of power up top, but not much under the curve). Ultimately you will have more reliability, more power, and better drive-ability with any forced induction at 1/3 the cost of making 400 to the wheels NA. I think Z1 sells a I decided that the VQ will be an absolute blast completely stock in any S30 chassis, at least that’s what I want. A few bolt-ons and a good tune can free up some power and get you over 300hp/tq to wheels especially with some lightened rotating mass via flywheel and rim/tire choice. Some intake plenum and lower manifold porting, headers (though the factory ones are already basically tubular stainless), less restrictive MAF tubes and air filters, and a free flowing exhaust can be done without opening up the engine and net you about 300-320 to the wheels. If you did want to go a bit further and open the engine you probably wouldn’t hurt drive-ability too much with a set of mild exhaust cams which might get you around 340-350 with the previous modifications to engine parts and drivetrain. If you wanted to go further and still have the car keep its manners some 12:1 pistons could get you right around 360 to the wheels though you would need access to high octane fuel or ethanol blends, upgrade the fuel system, and could never throw forced induction at it with out removing those pistons. The last 40hp to get you to 400 is where the prices and effort starting getting absurd and not worth it unless you race professionally or want to excuse to never have to go on a car cruise with your friends.