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Everything posted by Sanchez

  1. I will agree with everyone above that when dealing with unknown stock suspension on a Z to just play it safe given how easy it is to disassemble the entire strut tube. Those videos were likely done by people who had already redone their stock suspension so they know what kind of oil (if any) they put in the tubes and what struts they had (though cutting through a strut is something I would still never recommend). You definitely don’t want the oil to ignite from a spark and definitely don’t want a strut blowing up on you. If you really want to avoid renting a spring compressor you can do w
  2. Not really a progress update on the car, but I did just adopt a new helper who may eventually learn to fetch me tools. You can see a bit of the Z in the background. She’s settled in nicely at home so I can start bringing her to the garage and get back to the body work after this 2-3 week break.
  3. I’m gonna 2nd what @AydinZ71 said above about getting a LSD. The R200 itself can handle the VQ torque (the 370Z/G37 have a more modern version of the R200). It’s your Half-shafts that you need to be worried about. Techno Toy Tuning has great, but pricey, rear suspension setups that use a R200/230 or a Ford 8.8 complete with CV axles. The kit by @Invincibleextremes changes the entire rear suspension to use regularly available of the shelf parts from mustangs and neons with a Ford 8.8. And Apex Engineered has a whole subframe that allows for R200/230 and Ford 8.8 (I’m going with Apex, and they a
  4. I got mine from a Hybridz member, so I’m not really sure on the efficiency of shipping from Japan. As for welting it’s not necessary, really depends on the look you want and what sort of driving you do. My car will be a nice weather cruiser maybe the occasional track event and car meet, and where I live the roads are terribly rough so I’m planning to use it for peace of mind. I’ve seen plenty of pictures of them flush mounted though, it probably will just take some extra work to avoid gaps that would otherwise be filled with some pliable welting. I have the deluxe regular width fla
  5. @Gumiho3 Good to hear about Hexa Garage, I’ve been speaking with the owner and will probably get my harnes done in 1-2 months. You can use 16ga if you want, the stock is 18ga though for floor pan and firewall metal. If you’re good at welding and lap the patch it shouldn’t be difficult. I’m sticking to stock metal thickness throughout my repairs and doing the strengthening at specific stress points on the body later.
  6. I just got a set of Marugen Shokai flares and the fit is great and shouldn’t need welting like some flares do to sit flush with the body, but I would definitely suggest some kind of welting behind it. While the fiberglass seems good quality and tough any kind of chassis flex back there will slowly but surely start to pull pieces apart, crack it, or spiderweb whatever coating you put on it.
  7. If you plan on selling your car then for sure follow @grannyknot advice. Next owner may decide they want a bumper. If it’s going to be your life long car than smooth it and make it how you want it. I agree with @rturbo 930that a totally shaved and smooth roll pan looks a little plain. My plan for my roll pan is to make it from a new sheet of metal and have a buddy use his CNC machine to smoothly cut out the letters “DATSUN” in the back and put a lighted backing behind it to give it some character. But I don’t plan on selling my Z until it becomes impossible for me to drive.
  8. Good luck to you! Not saying that sarcastically, genuinely good luck. I agree we need to try and save as many Z’s as possible, and while that one is a big old mess those pictures make it look like somebody started to work on it a decade ago and gave up. Most of the rust looks surface too so it may not be too far gone, but I can tell you that you should definitely keep an open mind about looking around for a parts car otherwise you’ll be buying a lot of the missing pieces one by one and that will add up fast. You didn’t mention your auto mechanic skill level, but if you’re a quick-learning
  9. Firewall/kick panel coming together. Anybody else attempting to work this area I would definitely suggest breaking it into sections and not trying to make this as one piece. There’s just too many bends, folds, flanges required unless you have some industrial metal working tools.
  10. @Racer X 69 Thanks for the suggestion I’ll look into it. I’m gonna be grabbing some POR15 for the insides of frame rails, and have some weld through primer I put on these pieces for metal to metal and lap welds.
  11. Took a small break from the frame work to deal with some small areas that were bothering me like plugging holes from the factory and PO that I wasn’t going to need.
  12. @Sadeem28 My buddies and I have a YouTube channel and Instagram for the garage we work in. Haven’t updated much on Z because they’re moving along with their own projects and do all the editing and filming. I posted a YouTube link to the sandblasting video on the first page and our Instagram is: https://www.instagram.com/thecherrygarage_/
  13. @Rpm260z The ZeddFindings floor pans are great but they will require a lot of shaping to work and don’t include any of the kick panel leading up to the firewall so if yours are shot like mine it will take a bit of extra work. I would suggest not trying to take the easy route or use butt welds unless you are very experienced. When I go to my driver side I am going to cut the seat mounts out first, then do some test fitting and tracing of the replacement to get everything ready to go and lap weld it. @Sadeem28 This VQ motor fell into lap because I have a junkyard that parts
  14. Made so pretty good progress on metal work in the firewall/footwell/main rail area today. It’s amazing how much easier it to do metal work with just a harbor freight shrinker/stretcher and metal brake.
  15. Spoke with Apex Engineered yesterday about the progress of their VQ swap front crossmember, looks like they are making progress and this should be a huge jump in progress towards making VQ swaps even more simple in the long run. As you can see they are sticking to their regular crossmember be sign and have the supporting tube running what looks to be maybe 1 1/2” inches more forward. Looks quality to me so far for a prototype so I’ll be probably one of the first buyers to test it out and write about it here. Also for wiring I’ve been speaking with Matt over at Hexa Garage abou
  16. @Coelocanth81 Checkout the Drivetrain sub forum for a thread called “Thoughts on Apex Engineered Subframe” or something close to that. It was originally about the standard rear subframe they make, but it has info about both as well as some questions answered by the creator, @ohmster101. There is also a YouTube video of some guys who used the Track Attack subframe on a Hellcat swap Z you should check out. I haven’t seen any updates on the car since then though. I’ve decided to use their standard rear subframe to run a Ford 8.8 and there are a number of people here who hav
  17. Did some more cutting in firewall are before shaping any metal, also going to go to the local Harbor Freight and grab a 30” metal brake and a shrinker stretcher so I can actually get some of these bends looking nicer than my previous ones. I was always under the impression that the elongated trapezoid piece of metal that was on the frame rails behind the tension rod buckets was there to cover up an inspection/access port, but it would appear not. They must just be there for some added strengthening. Anyway, I’m hoping to get these pieces welded in this weekend.
  18. @rossman That's the plan. Our garage has an old 70-90gal (not sure on the actual capacity but it is functionally larger than my 55gal aquarium at home) air compressor that we got up and running recently, but unfortunately haven't been able to hook up to the individual bay outlets yet because hardware stores aren't able to cut and thread a pipe for us at the short lengths we need to connect the plumbing. I'll probably just run the air hose directly from the air output though once I stop by Harbor Freight to get a portable sand blasting setup. I have looked inside both my frame rails and th
  19. Got the damaged part of the firewall cut out today. I need to get some sheets of 18ga metal this week so I can get to fabricating. The main engine bay rail didn’t shift nearly as much as I expected when I loosened it so it should be pretty simple to get lined up again. I'm going to not be putting in a hole for the wire harness just yet because I plan on rewiring the car with modern electronics, and I am a big fan of using bulkheads for wiring. I’ve seen them last the abuse of offshore fishing boats I’ve worked on, so I'm sure they handle the minuscule abuse they would suffer at the
  20. As somebody who going through the process of tons of rust repair right now too, I can tell you that there is very little you want to just fiberglass over and forget. Maybe a few small pinholes or some pitting around some of the seams can be epoxied or glassed so that way weatherstripping can get a good tight seal, but for that just do metal and get a new rear hatch hinge boot from Zcardepot. Unless you are going for a completely clean and stock look with show quality welds everywhere all that stuff will be hidden and unnoticeable when done. Cut it out and repair with sheet metal it’s pretty mu
  21. So the passenger floor pan is almost completely finished. I’m having some issues with blow through even with adjusting the settings on the welder in some areas so I’ll need to get some copper plates and try to fill those in soon. Today I’m going to start tackling the kick panel/firewall and where my battery metal connects to the firewall, looks like I might need to purchase a shrinker/stretcher for that. Since I plan on doing a whole custom wire harness myself I will be deleting the factory harness hole (and A/C holes) for the time being since I would like to use bulkheads for everything on th
  22. @Ben280 I agree with you there, the heim joints for the AE kit are significantly better for handling, but it seems that the kit is very track car focused, but sacrifices for a lot of comfort for the street driver (and I live in STL which has the worst roads I’ve ever seen). But that price is really good and the construction seems bullet proof despite the R&D seeming a little rushed even to myself, and I am by no means a suspension expert. I agree again that bolt on style strut/coilover options would be nice, but in the same vain that option on the T3 version kinda sticks you with their coi
  23. @boostfed PM'd you about the flares
  24. Got in touch with my cousin who been doing body work for 20+ years and he’s gonna be lending me some tools and a hand for the body work coming up so hopefully it will speed up the progress. I’ll get the floor pan fully welded in and get some progress going on the firewall/battery tray area this Sunday.
  25. Progress has been slow, only get a few hours each Sunday to work on the Z because works for me going 6 days a week due to staffing issues the past month. Anyway the passenger floor pan is tacked in with a few butt welds around it. Hopefully the driver side should go a bit quicker using what I learned from this process. You will notice some crap welds in the photos if you look close enough, it’s what happens when you forget to turn on the shielding gas for a few tacks lol. I’m doing plug welds along the rocker and butt welds across the rest of the floor. I think I will end up fabricating my own
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