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Everything posted by Sanchez

  1. I’m definitely going to tie it all together from front to rear. Any reason for choosing 2”x2” and 0.125” thick metal? That seems like it might get tricky to weld to 18ga steel, at least for a novice welder like myself. How did you notch it and add metal for the holes where the subframe bolts with 2”x2” I measured that the middle of the bolt holes actually go into the lip/seam where the rail and fender wall meet?
  2. Try and get a quick video on your phone and upload it to YouTube or a video hosting website of your choosing, hearing the sound is a lot easier for us to diagnose than a description of a sound (though I will admit I’ve helped a few friends out of a jam with cars and boats based on a description of what they were hearing). Start with 30s of the sound filmed from right next to the diff (but not directly behind the straight piped car for the sake of everyone’s ears), and then 30s of the sound from in the cabin with the windows up. What immediately stands out to me is the fact you can hear the
  3. The wire harness from Hexa Garage should be arriving today, hopefully I’ll get the engine fired up in the next few weeks. I’ve moved on to the front chassis rails for repairs now and keep finding myself in the dilemma of: 1) Get pre-made rails like the ones from Zeddfindings or KFVintageJDM (minimum $500 after shipping) with stock strength and will still require bracing the sway bar area, and frame rails (another ~$400 from same vendors)… or… 2) custom rails using 14ga 2.5” square tube and butt weld it to the inner fender and firewall, then tie it into custom full length frame rails
  4. I had Eibach lowering springs while running some fairly tall tires on 14” rims (205/60r14) for the past 7 years and they were actually pretty good. Stiffer in the front and the rear progressive springs seemed to go from about stock stiffness to ~30% stiffer. Gave me about a 1” drop across the car with a very flat level stance. The only problem I ran into was I was on a tight budget and only changed the spring trying to get the ride height I wanted, and neglected my old worn out struts and bushings. The result from the stock dampening level of the worn out struts was that the progressive coils
  5. I just took a break from body work to take care of restoring a few small parts on the car and started with my whole heater/blower housing assembly. Aside from the actual heater core everything should be pretty easy to clean and paint. If you have a sandblasting cabinet you can get a really nice finish. Get a good sheet of cork gasket material and some adhesive foam like they use for sealing camper shells on trucks and you could have it painted in one day and assembled the next. As for the actual heater core I’ve seen some people using new aluminum cores from a 2000’s Ford sedan that requires a
  6. @Gumiho3 Glad to hear you got yours fired up! I placed my order about a week ago before reading this post. Sending mine out in the next few days once I price out shipping.
  7. Maiking some good progress, almost finished up with the final touches on the passenger floor pan and firewall/battery tray which is only about 20% of the body work the car needs but the rest should be faster and simpler stuff to recreate and weld around. @Gumiho3 Did you ever get your VQ fired up with Hexa's wiring harness and ECU flash?
  8. Progress made on the firewall recently. Got some large pieces tacked in but I don’t have the right clamps to get some of the corner really pushed into place so may wait a bit on those. Just had pay day and going to order the wiring harness and ECU tune from Hexa. Looking forward to firing this engine up in a few weeks given it’s been sitting for close to a year.
  9. @Gumiho3 Yeah let us know what Matt says about some of wires, it would be great for reference. My guess is that it is a battery current sensor plug, interestingly I recently replaced a battery on a friends Nissan Rogue and it has a battery current sensor. I’m not sure how important it is for function when the harness and ECU are stripped of dependencies, but my guess is it may have been an option on the G37’s if your harness came from one and probably protects the intelligent power distribution module in case of an over current situation. I can look at my buddies G37 this weekend pro
  10. @Gumiho3 Thanks for the pictures, those are the first I’ve seen of the Hexa harness around the forums and it looks pretty professionally done. Definitely find out what those wires do before hooking it all up though. Probably won’t harm anything if a few wires get crossed or ungrounded, probably just cause so CANBUS universal codes that systems aren’t talking to each other right. But better safe than sorry. @Sadeem28 Yes the fuel rail on the VQ37 needs 51psi constant, and I believe it is regulated at the intake pump. A 255lph pump should be just right and give you head room for s
  11. @Sadeem28 I expect I’ll be in the stages of body work through the end of the year and then get it primed around January 2022… hopefully. In the mean time I’m waiting on Apex Engineered to release their VQ front cross member. As for the wiring harness google Hexa Garage, check out this link (https://www.hexagarage.com/schassis-vq/vq-swap-universal-wiring), and send Matt an email too. He does the ECU modifications and base map that need to go with it also. The belt has me a little bit confused too, but I think you should be able to essentially run it just like an L24 without any o
  12. @Sadeem28 still chipping away very slowly at rust and body work. My time to work on it is pretty limited due to some changes at work the past few months. I am thinking of investing in a rotisserie with a friend because it’s also starting to beat up my back some of the bending and twisting required to do these panels on jack stands. As for the engine specifically, very shortly I will be sending out my wiring harness and ECU to Hexa Garage and hopefully firing up my engine soon since it’s been sitting for a bit over a year now. I think I should be able to fire it up without needing a s
  13. @Gotham22 Yeah the AC wiring complicated the wiring around the front cover a fair on the early Z’s. My 73 240Z had dealer installed AC that had already been removed when I purchased the car. I found about 5 wires associated with it bundled into the harness that were cut and terminated, but visible which made tracing some stuff difficult. And these wires weren’t referenced in the Haynes manual. The 280Z diagram may actually have AC wiring because it was probably a bit more common addition around the end of the 70’s. AC wiring is a good place to start, but have you done any (or previous
  14. From my recent experience with sorting out and selling the L28 from my 240Z, and helping a friend with a SpeedHut gauge install, it seems that even when the Z’s were new (Before previous owners started hacking up the harnesses for whatever reasons) is that there were a handful of stock wires that seemed to serve no purpose and don’t really go anywhere. My guess is that nearly all the harnesses from 70’s Z cars were designed with automatic transmission wiring and factory option wiring installed to save time and money. Unfortunately the Haynes manual doesn’t show these wires in specific diagrams
  15. @AydinZ71 Yeah the blower intake seems like an area pretty prone to rust and causing issues in the cowl. I’m surprised that I haven’t seen more impressive engineering solutions to the stock part other than just recreating it. My thoughts are, with the Civic or Kia blower motor a lot of people upgrade too, is how necessary is keeping the chimney the stock volume? Could I find a way to weld a plate in to flatten the area, cut a hole and weld some 2-3” diameter flared exhaust tube and not cause any bottleneck to the air flow? I plan on trying to figure out a way to make water drain better ar
  16. This Sunday I finished up all the welding of my passenger floor pan, ton of work having a buddy hold a flash light from the under the car to see all of the small holes here and there but it is fully in place (minus a frame rail, ordering those soon). Waiting on a sheet metal punch to finish up the firewall now that I have all the metal cut and then I have to figure something out for that little fan blower intake chimney in the cowl area that’s rusted through. I may just weld it smooth and make the system pull cabin air or modify it to take fresh air from the passenger side fresh air duct.
  17. If keeping it Nissan isn’t a priority than I think the LS is the best bet for reaching your power goals, but won’t get you that import sound you mentioned. I’ll throw in my own build engine the VQ37VHR but any VQ can get you close to the power you want with a bit of building and a turbo. Plenty of single turbo, twin turbo, and supercharger options, 8k redline and makes the car front-mid engine with the entire engine squeezing behind the front tires. More and more people are swapping to the VQ and more companies are making support for them. The manual trans that mates to them is pretty much bul
  18. I do agree with @Zetsaz that this thread could use more input and photos and information on performance/install of the AE subframe. It would be nice to hear and see more peoples experience with this part even though it seems like for the most part once the pieces are in your garage it is pretty straightforward to put in the car. Also saw the update on their website recently that the subframe is being updated to use the 370Z diff which gives the option of using an open carrier, VLSD (sport model, but have heard negative reviews on it by 370Z owners), or adjustable LSD (Nismo model). At
  19. I will agree with everyone above that when dealing with unknown stock suspension on a Z to just play it safe given how easy it is to disassemble the entire strut tube. Those videos were likely done by people who had already redone their stock suspension so they know what kind of oil (if any) they put in the tubes and what struts they had (though cutting through a strut is something I would still never recommend). You definitely don’t want the oil to ignite from a spark and definitely don’t want a strut blowing up on you. If you really want to avoid renting a spring compressor you can do w
  20. Not really a progress update on the car, but I did just adopt a new helper who may eventually learn to fetch me tools. You can see a bit of the Z in the background. She’s settled in nicely at home so I can start bringing her to the garage and get back to the body work after this 2-3 week break.
  21. I’m gonna 2nd what @AydinZ71 said above about getting a LSD. The R200 itself can handle the VQ torque (the 370Z/G37 have a more modern version of the R200). It’s your Half-shafts that you need to be worried about. Techno Toy Tuning has great, but pricey, rear suspension setups that use a R200/230 or a Ford 8.8 complete with CV axles. The kit by @Invincibleextremes changes the entire rear suspension to use regularly available of the shelf parts from mustangs and neons with a Ford 8.8. And Apex Engineered has a whole subframe that allows for R200/230 and Ford 8.8 (I’m going with Apex, and they a
  22. I got mine from a Hybridz member, so I’m not really sure on the efficiency of shipping from Japan. As for welting it’s not necessary, really depends on the look you want and what sort of driving you do. My car will be a nice weather cruiser maybe the occasional track event and car meet, and where I live the roads are terribly rough so I’m planning to use it for peace of mind. I’ve seen plenty of pictures of them flush mounted though, it probably will just take some extra work to avoid gaps that would otherwise be filled with some pliable welting. I have the deluxe regular width fla
  23. @Gumiho3 Good to hear about Hexa Garage, I’ve been speaking with the owner and will probably get my harnes done in 1-2 months. You can use 16ga if you want, the stock is 18ga though for floor pan and firewall metal. If you’re good at welding and lap the patch it shouldn’t be difficult. I’m sticking to stock metal thickness throughout my repairs and doing the strengthening at specific stress points on the body later.
  24. I just got a set of Marugen Shokai flares and the fit is great and shouldn’t need welting like some flares do to sit flush with the body, but I would definitely suggest some kind of welting behind it. While the fiberglass seems good quality and tough any kind of chassis flex back there will slowly but surely start to pull pieces apart, crack it, or spiderweb whatever coating you put on it.
  25. If you plan on selling your car then for sure follow @grannyknot advice. Next owner may decide they want a bumper. If it’s going to be your life long car than smooth it and make it how you want it. I agree with @rturbo 930that a totally shaved and smooth roll pan looks a little plain. My plan for my roll pan is to make it from a new sheet of metal and have a buddy use his CNC machine to smoothly cut out the letters “DATSUN” in the back and put a lighted backing behind it to give it some character. But I don’t plan on selling my Z until it becomes impossible for me to drive.
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