240Z Turbo

on a turbo motor rod bearings usually go from detonation that flattens the bearing and then it begins to spin. Definitely a rod bearing noise. DO NOT continue to run the motor like this. Debris can take out the cam lobes from clogging passages. The block should be completely disassembed and cleaned along with a thorough cleaning of the head. It is an awfully nice motor to do things half-ass!

Very Nice Indeed! BTW, what is the story with the R32 gearset you have there? Is that the RB25 tranny? Can it be made to fit into the silvia case as well?

From what I know it uses the VeilSide hydraulic torque split control system. Here is a pic of one from the Ex Vi Termini site: http://www.exvitermini.com/ BTW, I am so jealous! It won't be long until I am done and will purchase my front clip!

Update, called my buddy with the turbo350 behind his rotary powered RX7. His redline is 10,000 rpm and he has had no problems with the transmission seeing those rpms. BTW, a 3-speed is more suited for your application as it is a street/strip car. The typical rule of thumb for the glide is 3000lbs and 800hp. Although you can use the glide, it may not be best for you.

You don't have a formula for that in your SAE handbook?

Just did a search in Google with 'S30 RB26' and found a site with the AWD Z. It appears the front half of a GTR was grafted onto the car to do the swap. http://www.komycars.jp/drag/z.html

Stony, a turbo350 or powerglide will work well at 8000 rpm. My buddies turbo stang revs slightly past 8k with powerglide and bested 7.78@180. My other buddy had a rotary car with the turbo350 revving to 9k rpm and bested 9.2@138. Should not be a problem for the transmission, but I will ask specifically.

Just let me know, I have several sitting on my counter.

If you remove the line on the modulator there should be an adjustment on it. Mine uses an allen wrench. Adjust it in to raise the shift point(CW) and screw it out to lower the shift point(CCW). The modulator is pretty cheap, about $25. You need to get one for a turbo application, it has a silver dot on it. You may try calling Level 10 to get their opinion...ask for Pat.

these were the mods as given to me by Level 10 performance. Timing issues deal with the release of the 2nd gear band and the engagement of the 3rd gear clutches. Remember, the tranny has to release the 2nd gear band and at the same time engage the 3rd gear clutches, hence the necessity to have these events timed. I think the condition you have is commonly referred to as flair. My tranny also did that for a while, cannot remember what I did to solve it. If you did not drill the holes as specified it can cause these problems. Have you tried playing around with the modulator adjustment? Also, you can try placing a restrictor on the vacuum source for the modulator. This may help. Full line pressure is not bad on these trannies. It may help your problem, but I do not know. I am also not a tranny expert. BTW, could you tell a big difference after making these VB modifications? Did it shift much harder?

12psi shouldn't be an issue if it is tuned correctly. You are running rather low compression so that also helps. Your timing at 12psi should be in the 24deg range to be conservative.

That sounds like a timing problem. Have you done any mods to the tranny/valve body? I have the valve body mods online. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/4n71b/

Well, my motor is back 1" from the stock location so it made the fit rather tight. I mocked the 200-4R I originally wanted to do, but it was very close to the tunnel. 99% sure it would have worked, but the C4 is so much smaller for packaging. Perhaps in the future I will do the adapter for the GM/Olds tranny. I am not going to make a kit for this, but I will provide drawings for everything required. Just too much of a hassle at this point. I will keep you updated on the progress for those interested.

I will try to shoot you over a timing curve early this week. Takes a long time to enter into the table, but saves you the hassle of making one.

I have no way to make those comparisons. The runners are 1.375" all the way through which is about 21% more cross-sectional area than stock. Another advantage is that I have shortened the runners about .75" which should increase peak hp by 500-1000 RPM. The final advantage and biggest downfall of the stock jobber is plenum volume. My plenum has a volume of roughly 5.1L which is 1.8x of the stock displacement. I have no problems sending you one to try and give me some feedback. If you like the results I will give you a good deal, if not you can just return it to me.

Well, I machined a template for the C4 pump bolt pattern. I just lay it onto the 280zxt bellhousing and transfer over the holes. I drilled them out and then spot faced the holes on the inside in a mill. Anyway, I now have a nissan bell housing that bolts up to the C4 transmission. I am now working on getting a 9.5" converter made that uses the C4 top and the 280zxt front cover so it bolts to the stock 280zxt flexplate.

Joe, I can change the plenum volume and shape to whatever you desire. I do not know whether having a 90mm TB will buy you much, but I can make a 90mm work on the intake.

Mike, an adapter is not necessary. The front plate on the plenum will be cut/drilled for that particular TB as if it was designed for it. I then weld that plate to the plenum and it is ready to go.

He is still alive. I see the twin Greddy TDO6 17C's are doing well. Will it sit on a stand forever or will it actually run?

Want one

BTW, I have just been by Alex Costa's that he can get me 65mm/70mm/75mm aftermarket polished TB's. I believe they are about $130+ shipping

The size(length) depends on your particular setup. They are all cut-to-fit. Install takes about 1hr. Remove the gas pedal and drill out the rivit that holds the stock ball joint. This hole should be slightly larger than the pin at the end of the throttle cable. The stock hole in the firewall is slightly offset from the pedal. You will need to drill a hole in the firewall directly inline with the gas pedal. Now, slide the cable through the hole and place the pin through the gas pedal to attach the throttle cable. I hope this makes sense?

I do not think with the wastegate you will have cracking issues even if you choose not to use some flex section. I have run it both ways and my current wastegates do not use flex section.

Thank you, I try to atleast make it nice and do it right. Yes, you send me the TB and adapter, in your case, and I hook it up to make sure it will work with your particular TB. As I said before, if there are any specific holes that need to be placed on the manifold, PCV/vacuum ports/etc, you just need to let me know before hand. The manifold will bolt up with no issue and I will see about making mounts for the stock heat shield. As far as IC piping I cannot guarantee it will line up with what you currently have.