240Z Turbo

Damn I'm good!

Motorex says they now sell RB26DETT engine/trans(not front clip) for about $3200. This can be a basis of comparison if you list just engine/trans prices.

Rick, you should always check your actual timing with a timing light. While the motor is out, dial in TDC and make the marks so when it is running you can easily verify them with a timing light. WHOOPS!

Full T4 stuff on a rotary (two rotor) will usually require a P-trim with a .96 a/r housing. A good compressor matchup is a 60-1 or 62-1. This setup spools well on a rotary. Rotaries DO NOT like back pressure.

Started the front ahead of schedule!

Front will be done on Tuesday. Car almost complete! Last major thing is lower ic piping.

Contact Shaun at Upgrade Performance. Turbo's are all brand new garrett units with 1-year warranty. Price is about $575shipped to your door. Upgrade 850-671-1596

Tranny is next on the list after the car is running!

If flows 60lb/min which makes it a 550+hp turbo. I agree, in most applications for the street it is not a necessity.

Good turbo and will support from 550-700hp depending on turbine housing used. If you are interested my buddies shop can beat most any price you can find on that turbo. Spoolup is said to increase by 11% over standard turbo of same size. Upgrade Performance 850-671-1596

Those pieces are flat I purchased the airhorns from TWMinduction. Here are all the pics if you are interested: http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/newintake/ It is just bent on a break, not welded and ground down. Yes, I run dual 40mm HKS wastegates, one for each turbo. Those are the standard rod ends form MSC, hardened steel/chrome ball/brass bushing and cost about $4.25/per. The rods are chromoly with machined inserts. Yes, the old rectangular exhaust is still being used.

You can see the rod ends used to support the turbo to the header flange and to the base of the block for each turbo.

Yep, Cleve Meredith purachased the car and it sat at Sunbelt for while. The car was said to make 500hp but, used a H-trim TO4B turbo. The car dynoed 276hp@wheels as I remember detonating like a SOB. Car had an E31 head with some funky deck height on the piston to get compression down. Car was tuned for $hit as I looked at the tech timing/fuel map. What a shocker coming from TEP. Motor was dumped for a turbo motor with stock rebuild with the only performance mod being and HKS 1mm head gasket. The car then made over 350hp@wheels. The car was actually in nice shape as the pictures show. I learned 4.5years ago never again to deal with TEP. After spending about $4500 with them and getting crap attitude from Steve Nelson I said enough is enough. I later learned how much overcharged I was on parts I had ordered. I can only blame myself for that one. Those clowns need to realize that attitude and crap service will give you a bad wrap very fast. BTW, I remember Steve Nelson telling me the yellow car went low 11's! YEA RIGHT!

Well, I went 11.2@130 in my car which is about 475hp@wheels. If you launch hard on slicks by dumping the clutch then you may have problems. It is the shock that breaks them not accelerating with big hp.

Here is the specific information to do the VLSD swap ***Input shaft(diff)- must use from VLSD ***Cage(diff side)- #175 cage(from VLSD) ***Race(diff side)- #174 race (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) ***Shaft- OEM Replacement Axle # 87-7699-0 (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) (from 80-83 AMC Eagle 4WD 6cyl) ***Complete Tripod(wheel side)- # 87-7801-0 (from 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl) ***Tripod Housing(wheel side)- 280zxt So, using the AMC shaft the #174 race is placed on the shaft for the diff side and is compatible with the #175 cage. The complete tripod from the 80-87 AMC Eagle 4WD 4cyl fits onto the shaft and is also compatible with the 280zxt tripod housing. Whala....you have the shaft that works. The shaft is 13" long. As I said before you will want to use the 240z stub axle with the 280zxt companion flange and the passenger side will require a .5" spacer. Good Luck.

Maybe I can clarify since I figured out this swap. Here we go. Input shafts as pictured for the VLSD MUST be used as they are specific to that diff. The cage for the input shaft must also be used. The shaft is the front shaft from an AMC eagle 6cyl and it is about 13-13.5in long. You will use the race from the AMC shaft on the diff side and it works with the cage of the VLSD. The outer side of the shaft is all 280zxt stuff. You will use the 240Z stub axle with the 280zxt companion flange. The drivers side fits perfect and you DO NOT have to drop the a-arm to get it on, just compress the shaft and you are set to put it on. The passenger side requires a .5" spacer. I will post all the part #'s tomorrow and all the specific info on the shafts. My guy will build them if you send the input shafts and 280zxt outers for $200. Shafts/Boots/Seals/Outer caps/SS wide bands are all new parts. Ask ZGad as I had a set built for him and he dropped 2/10ths off his 60ft time with diff swap alone.

Not possible, diff is shorter...pinion gear won't work....to short for our longer diffs.

We swapped a bonestock longblock into a 3rd gen RX7 and fabbed our own intake and exhaust manifold. Haltech computer, 100lb injectors, Spearco, 62-1 turbo. The whole swap cost us about $3500 and we did all the fab work. The weight is slightly over 450lbs complete engine/tranny. The car went 11.7@118 on 1st pass breaking up on the top-end because of bad ignition. The car went 7.6@98mph in the 1/8th with a 1.9 60ft on that same pass. The car has made 400hp@wheels on pump gas with a 50shot of nitrous. We run 21-22 psi on pump gas and beat this motor to hell. This is HYBRIDZ.com.....give the guy some slack.....it is an excellent swap idea. So much room for some fancy header and custom intake.

Sorry, same pump is $115 from http://www.racetronix.com/ You will want to buy the installation kit and either the -6an or -8an inlet outlet fittings if you don't like the barb stuff.

other variables to consider are the efficiency of the intercooler and the efficiency of the turbo at the various boost levels. I used to run 19psi daily on an 8.1:1 motor and run 17-18psi daily on my 8.6:1 motor all on 93 octane. TimZ runs 24psi daily on his 7.4:1 motor and 94 octane gas. Your ability to tune also plays an important role in your ability to run alot of boost. AFR's on pump gas should be in the 11.5:1 range at high boost and pump gas. Timing will vary depending on the motor, but I run about 22deg at 18psi and used to run about 24deg with my other intercooler. When I used to run a starion intercooler I could only run about 13-14psi on pump gas and just by swapping to the larger Bell intercooler I was able to run about 5psi more boost just because of efficiency.

Them folks are what we call "HIGH-TECH REDNECKs!"

R200 LSD will from N/A 300zx (90+). You know Kyle Puckets 300zxTT was using the N/A rear and went 10.2@142 in a 3000lb +++ car.

E-mail me about a turbo when you are ready to make more power. I think you can expect to make 550hp@wheels. BTW, I bet the exhaust manifold is killing you as far as making power in the higher rpms. Just a thought.

I am with you on that one Shane. I do not chose to support Turbonetics if I can help it. They make almost NOTHING they sell and are just a middle man for most of the things they provide. Spearco does not make the intercoolers, but are units produced by Garrett from what I have been told along with a company in New York that makes there air-water cores. They are the same folks who make Vortek air-water coolers. Since Turbonetics acquired Spearco they have jacked the prices on cores several times. The most recent I saw was about 15-20% more in cost. I did not buy a Spearco for that very reason and will NEVER buy a turbo from those jokers. I can get better quality for far less direct from Garrett. BTW, I have also heard bad things about the deltagate. The problem as I know it results from excessive EGT's warping the valve causing it to stick. Might be a simple fix with better material, but is exactly why wastegate mfg's like Tial have a wastegate that uses the Deltagate flange.

The ports are round and will be matched to my port before use. My ports are D-shaped and the round holes you see are smaller than my D-shaped ports so as to allow me to properly port the header flange. The jobbers on the #1 and #6 are for the slip joint and allow those tubes to slightly move when hot, but not move too much as to lose the seal. Oh Yea, turbo's are 2x Mitsubishi 16G's. Larger 20G's will be upgraded after I graduate.