240Z Turbo

I am currently helping my buddy swap and sr20det into his 3rd gen RX-7. He has the motor mocked in the car and we cut the cross member and created a new cross member. I will post pics of the swap early next week. BTW, it is a clean swap with plenty of room and quite easy.

Nice header and you should be happy with the benefits over the stock cast piece. I would create some type of support system so that you reduce the stress on the header. It must allow the header to move around. I can draw up something Monday to show you how people have done this. Looks great.

I think TimZ and I had the discussion about dry ice and its inability to absorb heat from the system as oppossed to just regular ice.

200shot????? I like you! I thought the 100shot I ran was damn fun and I cannot imaging hitting a 200shot on that sucker. Hell, with 10psi and 100shot the car blew the drag radials out of the hole from a 2400rpm brake stall. Now, SSS510 run more boost and get a bigger turbo and I think 135mph is around the corner for you.

Just stick with the 2.8L motor to save money. Have the pistons prepped, peen/polish/resize/ARP and get a good set of forged pistons in an 8:1 configuration. I had Sunbelt port the head and used SS valves along with polishing the combustion chamber. I say this all the time, you MUST use a large turbo to make the power. If you want 600hp you MUST have a turbo that flows in the 960 CFM range and not some T04E. Also, consider the amount of boost you want to run. Do you want to have to run 30psi of boost to make 450rwhp? I don't! Porting the intake and exhaust manifold will help, but custom manifolds make it even easier to reach your desired hp goal. It is the sum total of all the mods that make the difference. A free flowing intake does you little if your exhaust/exhaust manifold is still restrictive. Lastly, nitrous never hurt!

If you like that turbo header you will definitely appreciate my new 321SS twin turbo header! Will post pic when finished.

send them to turbo240z@yahoo.com

If anyone has info or other pics please post.

Spearco cores(Garrett cores air-air) have gone up about 25% in cost over the past year since the merge with Turbonetics. If you want to know what flow to obtain you will ask the following: What power do I want to make? 500hp How much flow is needed across core with 1.1psi pressure drop to support 500hp? 500hp*1.6 = 800cfm@1.1psi drop So search the core maps and find a core that supports that flow and pressure drop across the core. This is not exact, but gives you the results you need for sizing an intercooler.

Not too difficult. Forged pistons are the only major thing on the bottom end and some mild head porting w/cam. Large turbo and Nitrous allows you to run low 11's even with a crappy launch. I should know 60ft-1.9 1/4ET-11.26 1/4MPH-129.5

And the winner is............... N42 Hurray, discussion over!

You can do it!

Evening out the exhaust pulses with equal length tubes will give much better response to your turbo, but many speculate the necessity for equal length when going for all out HP. If you search this turbo forum you will see Alex Costa's single turbo header design. Good easy design for a long tube turbo header. I think the SFP manifold will also be a big improvement over stock.

materials alone for my new 321SS header is about $1000 and a 304unit would be about $200-$250 less. I have been talking with South Florida trying to get a mild steel manifold built in the $850 range. It is not SS, but will have a 3yr warranty against cracking. Jeff, I think any header will be better than the stock jobber.

Hard to get a definitive answer, but his is what I know. The NISMO mega pump is just their hiflow pump with better spring. The turbo auto pump is supposedly the best, but I can't get hard #'s on its flow. If you were to buy a pump for a turbo, non-turbo from your local auto store it is all the same pump. Best bet, get the turbo pump from MSA for $69. I run it with no problems.

Lockhead, cutting the flange in some instances is the right thing to do, but not always. It is only a question of how the expansion of the tubes will affect the pulling of the header flange. You have to realize that the Z flange needs to be 9/16" thick so you will be hard pressed to substantially bend it due to forces created by the header pipes. This months turbo mag has a great article by Burns Stainless on how to properly build a header and things that can/will cause problems. How is it that with no experience you always have the answer? Put down your Maximum Boost book, arm chair Quarterback book, back seat driver book, film critic book and go out and get some practical experience.

The intake manifold is as follows. Ports are matched to gasket and hogged as big as can go with 1.5" velocity stacks on the inside of the plenum. Custom plenum and fuel rail will be included. Yes, it is an o-ring style setup with Honda type injectors used. It is setup to use a Mustang BBK TB as big as 70mm. The manifold has a custom heat shield for the plenum and the manifold is heat coated in black. Here is the latest pic and some pics of the intake buildup. I will probably sell the intake for $400 with the fuel rail/fuel rail mounts/fuel rail fittings. I have mucho hours in this manifold and the car went 11.2@130. Intake pics

I will be selling my custom intake with fuel rail as I have to build a new one to clear my new turbo setup. Donna, yes I can get the stuff cheaper than what you paid. I think the TBs were $60less than what you paid. SEnd me an e-mail and I will give you Shaun's #.

Nonsense, you should not have any problems with pulling out studs if done properly. If sectioned it will increase the possibility of pulling out a stud. The 304SS does expand 25% more than mild steel, but there are several things that need to be done to allow the SS to expand in the right direction. My header is a perfect example of what not to do with SS. My header in .125" mild steel would be perfect. Short straight runs that merge, as in my header, will crack everytime with the short pieces expanding in different directions. What to do? You must use bends before you merge the pipes and you should use a merge collector as that is where the most heat and stress is placed.

Joel, the 2004R has a .68 overdrive so you will want to use the 3.7 and not go lower.

Lockjaw, since you already paid me for the intercooler I can smack talk you again. How can you properly debate head choice when you don't even know what you are saying. Shimming the springs will help maintain the correct seat pressure. You need to shim the cam towers and adjust the lash to use the .080" longer valves. It is a horrible way to go, I know because I have the longer SS valves in my P90 head. It creates many problems if you do not shave the head because shimming also affects cam timing. TimZ uses the N42 and makes 431hp&472ft-lbs @wheels on 94octane. Hell, Don Potter also says the earlier heads provide the best platform for making big power on the L6. Blowup my motor with an E30 head????? Only for the lame tuner!

I run the larger exhaust valves, but have also heard that oversized exhaust valves gain little. I think you would be better served oversizing the intake valves and I wish I had done the same.

You can cut the perch and move it up above the tire to run more back spacing. Use a cutdown 2+2 rear spring. My 15x8 rim has a 275/50-15 Nitto Drag radial and the rim has a 4.5" backspacing. You CAN run this same tire with a 5.5" backspacing on the same setup, but I am not sure if it will clear the fender lip. I would think it would. I can remeasure the exact clearance my tire has with the strut tube and with 4.5" backspacing. BTW, watching the videos of my car racing, the passenger rear is bottomed out all the way down the track so I think I need more spring rate for racing. It really torques the car over.

Although I run the P90 I would probably do a big valve E30 or an N42 the next go around. Did you think about the fact that the valves on the P90 are sunk in .080" and never clear the combustion chamber? An E30 or E31 will clear the combustion chamber into the cylinder bore giving the air a 360deg flow path coming out/into the valve. The P90 sends charge right into the side of the combustion chamber. You can unshroud to reduce this effect. Also, the smaller combustion chambers will help to promote turbulence with a tighter squish area. Just my opinion.