jnewby

I just built this motor, and yes I measured the end play, and it was within limits. My First mistake was when bolting the engine and trans togather, things didn't quite fit like they were supposed too, so I tried to seat the torque converter in the transmission, It seemed to be well seated, so I proceeded to bolt it togather. Well at that time I heard the torque converter finally pop into place. I didn't think much about it, The motor ran great, for about 5 hours than started knocking. It never occured to me that "forceing" the trans to the engine would move the crank foward. The motor and trans (700R4) were out of an 88 truck. My questions are, What can I safely reuse? Is there any way to repair the block/crank? Has anyone else ran into this problem? Yes I feel like an Idiot, I just thought I would share my learning experience.

Most likely there is some slag on the ring gear, I put an Impact to the nut on the input flange with the diff out of the car. Cleaned the slag right off, Diff turns really easy now. lol

I would have to agree with PalmettoZ, I visit this website all the time, and it kinda breaks my heart when the first reply is search. I never really post much, I dig through piles of old info and broken links, but the answer is usually there, if not I use Google. The faq section is also a pretty good asset. You also might want to check your diff mounts.

If going to the jtr postion, you will have to run an electric fuel pump (passenger mount interfearence). I had to run a long waterpump, because no alt bracket (tried 3 different styles) would fit the short one. and you will have to run the smaller harmonic balencer (steering rack clearence), not to mention you might also have exhaust clearence problems and the new hood latch bracket(distributer clearence). also you will have to bang out your trans tunnel more. The jtr mounts do postion the engine lower, it does require more work though. summit raceing has all the intake manifolds height listed, so you can measure look on their web site and leave about 2 in to play with of course for murphys law, and engine movement .

I am running the hurricane manifold with vortec heads with jtr mounts and I have about 3 in of hood clearence, you should be fine with the air gap, there were a few people running them. just make sure the intake is for vortec heads.

I would have called, but it is such an hassle to call the states,(currently in Kuwait) Thanks Miles.

I am also in process of locating a carpet kit, I wasn't able to locate the Delux kit on their website. Is the custom kit the same?

Th-350 is the cheapest in most cases, with a 3 speed auto you will pulling a lot of rpms on the highway, trust me you want either a 4 speed auto or a 5 speed manual.

I looked around, and you are right. I drove it in way to far, backed it out problem fixed.

I have a sbc 350, 88 truck block and I am using a flat-tappet hydralic cam with a double roller timing set. I am having issues with the timing set binding, it appears the cam is out further than the crank gear. I believe it is due to the rear freeze plug. Does any one know how far the rear freeze plug is supposed to be driven in? I looked in my haynes manual and it says nothing. Thanks.

I used them on my previous 280z swap, they leaked on me, I would get good gaskets, there were other factors that may have caused mine to leak though.

lincoln mark VIII maybe.

NEO TECH imports is a very good shop in santee they do all kinds of nissan swaps they have sr20s but dont carry any rb26s give them a call at 619 613 0664.

the intake is for more torque than horse power but it is an amazing engine if you want tips try www.markVIII.org they have a lot of info.