spotfitz

From what I remember about the conversion: The calipers used on the V6 4 Runner were the same as the ones used on the Land Cruiser of the same year, '88. Meaning they were the S12W versus the S12 for the non-vented rotor, (which I'm using) if I remember correctly. Hope it helps.

Just when I thought I knew what I was going to do, you guys had to throw this at me. I had to go price one for myself. Most all the Q45 motors upto '93 go for alittle more then what you can get the '94+. I got a quote of $1600 for '94+ motor(no accessories) with harness. Auto tranny would run about $350. Now, to get the whole thing(motor,accessories,tranny and harness) I would think it would be about $2000. He never would give me a price. I would have to catch one just as it came in or have it on order. He would have to talk with "the boss" and see what the price for "all" would be. What if I pulled it? That question never came up. I couldn't even go into the warehouse to measure it. He did, but came back saying it was at the top of the rack. Oh well. It's a flip up in my book. It would have to be determined on whether the 300ZX 5 speed would make the fit or not. I could do a good built 350 w/auto for about $1500. I want the stick, which would bump the price up another $750-$1000, after the difference of trannies, depending on which way I wanted to go(T56). So BADZX, you are going 5 speed right, right?

I was just talking to a Z Club of Texas member today and we were discussing using the c pillar vents and putting the scoop over those, like the fast backs. It is a reasonably flat surface and he had seen smaller vents that could be used. Ducting for the rear brakes might be alitle harder, but not much harder then going from the roof. Maybe on my next project Z.

Greg, Already stabbing the tranny? I hope thats the case. You don't know how many days I've driven by your suburbia and thought about dropping by to see how the project was going. Hope everything works out for you.

I wish you all the luck I have. Make that all the good luck. Since your garage is already set up and everything. Can I bring my Z over? Are you using the same gun for painting that you used for primer? BTW, if you need some help with anything this weekend, let me know. [ August 18, 2001: Message edited by: spotfitz ]

Just when you think we're ahead of the game. Would be fun to see it in a Z though.

There was a post about parts for a T56 in one of the boards. I'm just now getting back on here, after a reformat. Do a search and I'm sure you'll come up with something.

Have you gotten the tach to work at all? If it is working, but jumping around, especially with an electrical circuit drawing current, (like a turn signal) then it is power draw. The MSD draws alot of juice considering what our original alternators produce. I don't have the dist. you discribe, but have noticed some funny things going on with the tach during high draws on the battery. I plan to upgrade the alternator to relieve this issue. Bad electrical connections could also be a problem. Hope it helps

There was word of an increase with the N36 compared to the N33, E33 or E36(all the earlier intakes. Using an early balance tube should remove any problems that you will encounter with throttle linkage and remove alot of unneccessary crap. I have an E33 on my '74 260 right now(if I remember right, I ground the # off before coating) and I had to use 240 throttle linkage to make it work. It will be the same story with the linkage when I go back to the N36 I still have, using the uncluttered balance tube. You might want to port match while you have things apart to possibly get all the extra ponies you can from the intake. Hope it helps. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/intake_header1.jpg You may have to copy/paste. I either screw it up everytime or geocities suck, or both

This is just another reason why I wanted to see your car RPMS. I'm half tempted to run over to the bone yard right now as I've been wanting to get new mirrors and couldn't decide which ones to get. You just made up my mind. I've still got some film left that I need to get developed soon. (hint hint)

I always wondered what the rims on my Z would look like if they were stripped and polished. Now I know. Thanks.

This is strange. (about 2 months ago) I called them on a Saturday and left a message and they promptly called me back on Monday, during the day, and left me a message. I called them back on Tuesday and he didn't have the right info I wanted on the headlight bucket conversion kit so he said he would call me right back. 15-25 minutes later he called back with some of my answers and spoke with me somemore. I got the idea that they really don't know what they have on their website, just know the parts from the part #'s. Call and leave a message asking about something real expensive and then lead into what you really want. Worked for me.

Just acouple months to early, but if by some chance you still have it then, yea right...

Just today I spotted a Z(don't know what year, YET) at a body shop just up the street from where I work and was wondering if anyone knew about it. It was a bright yellow. I plan to swing by there tomorrow and talk with the shop owner and possibly take some pictures. The one thing I did notice as I was driving by was the rear fascia area. The tail lights were big slots running horizontally. Very smooth looking. If you own this Z I want to hear details. I'll be dropping by tomorrow, about lunch time to check it out more. I hope to have pics for those interested in this customization.

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: This is how I did my lime green engine. [ June 28, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ] Which looks sweet!! BTW

My 7/74 is an early 260Z. I don't know when the switch occured.

I spoke with Showcar acouple times this week finding out what he had for this conv. As for the whole conversion kit, he didn't have the grill or headlight assemblies, which isn't that big of a deal. The "fender extensions" or headlight buckets were $79 a piece shipped to my door. The conv kit, which consisted of the filled in light buckets, front fiberglass bumper, and fenders with vents was close to $1k if I remember correctly. I wasn't really interested in the whole assembly anyways. I mostly wanted the buckets. I'll probably order them in acouple weeks. Very nice guy I spoke with. I could tell he sure ain't from around these here parts. Got to love Texas

Back 8 years, when I had my Toy p/u, I was making a bed cover for it and paid a friend to get the materials from a place he use to work so we could lay the glass over the aluminum frame I made. Some friend, he screwed me, but thats beside the point. After this, I had problems finding anyone that would sell one of the chemicals needed. There is a certain chemical that is used for fiberglass that is also a main component of the drug "speed" and most places won't sell it to you because of this. I don't recall the name of it, but it was needed for my project as I was told. Was I just getting BS'ed by the Laser boat company?

Looks real sweet BLKMGK. Be sure to get lots of close ups and some other angles, when it is actually out of the garage and going down the street. I know the feeling about the garage. I'm running out of room in the 2 car, with just the Z and all the body parts laying everywhere, including all the used sand paper. Sounds like a 2 step lesson when walking in there now. BTW, Anyone need some pretty nice silver/grey Z seats?

quote: Originally posted by Lone Star 1: The block is allready pretty smokey. I don't why but my car doesn't leave black stripes. It makes the tire screaching sounds but leaves no stripes. This car has stock suspension, it squats hard and just goes. When it hits 2nd the noise starts again for about 20 to 25 feet. Sometimes it changes lanes, and then 3rd gear hits hard and a little more screaching. By this time its time to find the brakes because your doing something against the law! My car has the R200 3.36 LSD. which makes crusing nice. eXcessive eXhibition of eXcelleration. I never have understood that one. [ May 24, 2001: Message edited by: spotfitz ]

quote: Originally posted by idealz: Guys, I just picked up a 74 260 after only owning the later 280s for 10 years. I haven't even touched the car yet but it has the early bumpers with the u-bracket BUT also has shocks in the rear. Can it be that this is the best of both worlds? It looks like the shocks simply rest against the inside surface of the bumper as there are not bolt flanges on them. Alas, the rear bumper was not on the car so I am guessing at this point. Craig Both front and back bumper brackets that came on the 260 are actually shocks. I think this was the first year of them. I have already eliminated the rear bumper and shocks on my Z(very dented and rusted and had a bracket on the inside for mounting), but kept the bumper on the front and let the air out of the shocks. I plan to run a bolt back through it once I have it at the right spot in relation to the body. Has any of you 240 owners with 1/8-1/4" clearance had some rubbing of the paint on the wrap around part of the bumper. I know mine would wiggle up and down when hitting bumps. As I have yet to remount the bumper and will be installing it when I get the Z painted I would really hate myself if I suddenly had some whiskers on my new paint by the bumpers.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Baldwin: Thanks for the reply, David. Only one! I'm going to get a header blanket to keep the carbs cooler, and reroute the fuel lines to keep them cooler, and replace the lousy Puralator fuel press. regulator with a Holley before I go to the track. In the future, I'll get a more serious fan and/or a more serious radiator. Dan I have been having a similiar problem. When sitting at a drive through to long the rpm's would drop 2-300 and when trying to pull away it would stumble and once I got going it would "even out". I have noticed one thing about the Purolator FPR. The pressure fluctuates. Mine has been known to fluctuate from 3-6 psi when the FPR is set at 3.5 psi. I've suspected this for sometime as I didn't have this problem prior to installing it. With a guage just behind it I think I have found the problem. I wouldn't think that when idling you can build up this pressure between the FPR and the carbs. I thought I may have been getting pirculation of the fuel in the lines/bowls from the heat from the ceramic coated headers, but after making a heat shield I can put my hand on the bottom of the carbs and hold them there, after I've been idling at operating temp for about 15 minutes. The domes are even cold to the touch. The FPR and guage are mounted on the pass. fender so heat soak of them shouldn't be the case. Fuel rail(which is also ceramic coated) insulation didn't help with the problem. I feel it's the FPR. Is yours the dial type like mine? I feel with the fluctuation it is allowing higher pressure on the gross jets, which inturn load up the carb causing the stumble. Sound like a theory? I have yet to replace my FPR, but plan to once I get her painted. Hope it helps.

quote: Originally posted by Owen: There was an interesting thing in the latest import magazines (forgot which one) about performance wheels and tires adding more weight overall in the end, interesting. Owen That would have been Turbo mag. Yes, even though I don't have a turbo I read the mag. It was a charity thing, ok. They had some good info in there about the extra weight and the difference in heights of various brands causing slower speeds and different torque ratings. They also had several pages of rims with the corresponding weights. Good reading while doing paperwork.

I haven't really looked into the single wiper that much. I was kicking around the idea back when I decided to pull my assembly out for "maintenance" afew months ago. They seemed to work better, but still not that great. I usually don't drive her when it's raining because I haven't replaced my gaskets,except the door seals. I'll be looking more into it as I start running out of panels to smooth out and start working on the modifications. As I'm doing body work now, I thought I "might as well" do most of the things I've been considering doing to the car. blueovalz's old 280 has one of the things I plan to do soon. Rear valance. I haven't decided if I want to use a fiberglass bumper or not have one at all. I think the rear valance seems alittle to flat looking, so I was thinking of rounding it alittle more and increasing the angle to give it more of a forward curve as it goes down. More like a roll pan. Mine has had some body work done to it so I'll probably start over with new metal. I have until Sept. to get all these things done. Thats when I'll either sell my truck or let it go back. I want a V8Z. Anyone want my truck? Right now it has 47K and in Sept. I'll take $13k for it. it's a '97 chevy with 350 w/ K&N cold air induction. D/FW area. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Truckzoom.jpg

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: I don't have a imaginary friend, I do have these other voices that apparently only I can hear. They tell me to do really neat stuff. Like use your buddy's chapstick on the cats butt. Lone Excuse me while I get up out of my chair! Too funny! BTW, didn't they say your door is ajar. What the hell is ajar? I know my grandmother use to can stuff in ajar, but what does it have to do with a door.