spotfitz

Being I'm on here several times a day, theres not much I don't read on this site. Kinda sad isn't it? I may miss them the first go around because of the traffic on here, but... I have a problem. I've been broke all week do to non-paying tenants and ofcourse Z parts. I could have bought alot of parts with what I'm owed. I'll be getting them developed Friday, get'em back Sunday. I'm really considering running an FTP from my home PC. Earthlink has a terrible FTP setup and I've always wanted to do it for other reasons. For future home of a certain Z Club website maybe? Don't hold me to that one though.

Very innovative! I like the idea. And cool looking nonetheless. Now if they could only put them out for about $20k I would think about having a seasonal 2 seater with that type of power to weight ratio. Oh wait. Alot of us are already working on having one of those.

I do remember someone putting a caddy motor in a bug, but I think we are talking alittle more work then just welding and wiring here. Would be kewl though. I think the hardest part would be finding the right setup. Which vehicle to take the swap from would have to be one of the most expensive parts of the deal considering I would hate to think how much money this would take if you actually paid a shop to do this swap. Pantera anyone?

I can't remember what ratio you had before and what you were going to do with it after the swap

YOU are a god sent. Ok, well Ross has something to do with it to But after looking I don't see a listing for them. Guess Ross will be getting an email real soon.

Coil overs! I've got all the control arms sandblasted and POR-15 applied. All the parts are waiting there for reassembly. I just don't like the idea of resting the adjustable sleeve on the weld of the old spring perches. I plan to find a washer to be welded to the weld, for the sleeve to rest on. Then I can get the tubes sandblasted, yada yada yada. I look forward to seeing your new seats and you again, ofcourse

Ok Grumpy, I got one for you. I need four washers, 1/4" X 2.02" ID X 2.375" OD or atleast something close that I can open up or fill weld. I spent countless hours looking over the net yesterday with the biggest being 2 1/8"OD. Anything? Anybody?

Thats funny considering I have a '78 tach in my '74 and I didn't need the adaptor. Did you find you had to have the adaptor after trying it without one?

Throttle opener control valve. It slows the deceleration of rpms when shifting gears. Only installed on manual vehicles.

Hyundai Excel are the same profile/shape as the impulse. I think I recall both being a late '80's model. The Excel had to be trimmed aswell. Hope it helps. Should be afew left out there in the yards.

I have yet to do it to my Z but I did do it on my Toy p/u which had a plastic/composite type insert. I used a plastic putty knife with good results, but in some spots had to use a small flat head screw driver with the sharp edges rounded off. I'm not looking forward to this on my Z. Hope it helped.

Why do I see this thing taking traction from the rear tires when starting up a steep driveway?

Ok, I know the towing was alittle pricey(not my fault), but could you hook a fellow Zer up?

As I am about to attempt the front and outer rears, I feel your pain. Mine have been sitting there for some time now. I have heard freezing them helps alot. This is what I plan to try. I'm also doing coil overs and a phantom grip, so I have other worries on my mind.

Say it isn't so! I do remember when HybridZ became an .org and did scavenge info from here but, I was also a zcar.com fan at the time until it hit a turn it was going to fast for or something. I don't see me ever leaving here until I either can't go out into the garage and work on the long lost cousin of Pete's Z(btw, going on 7 years, but I could always drive it until now ) or retire and restore old muscle cars because theres more money in it, in the states atleast. But then again, I'm sure I'll always have atleast one Z project lurking in the background, waiting for parts that are nolonger available. Got to love it!

If the body guy can't do a good paint job, this sometimes means he can't do good body work. Any dark color will show bad body work, whether it be metallic,pearl or fades. I once had a p/u painted a dark metallic blue with a black metallic fade about 4" up and in just the right light the black was just slightly visible(mostly under street lights). The paint job looked very good, but you could see every ripple in the body work(but everything I had done wasn't )which made the truck look bad, which is why I'm doing my own body work. To my point... If the body guy is afraid of doing the paint, get someone else to do the body work! You may have to pay alittle more, but a bad paint job is a bad paint job, but a $12,000 paint job over bad body work will still look like a paint job over bad body work. With good body work any paint job will look good... Hope it helps.

I love it Terry! Just today I was showing some people at my work your car. I actually got to spy this pic this morning from your gallery. Have you been holding out on us? Are you putting the rear spoiler back on?

Works great in SU's aswell!

My '74 oem springs are 4-4 1/8" od and the coil overs I have are 3 1/4" od. Hope it helps.

Phantom, if you want you can swing by and see everything I got from Mike first hand. I'll be working on the coil over setup this weekend and if I get to it I'll be putting in the phantom grip. No pun intended

I followed the diagram I think your talking about, http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm, . Which is basically connecting white/red to white/black and then connecting yellow to white/blue, where these would go into the regulator, but as mentioned in his article, if your regulator has been switched out before then you may have to determine if these wire color codes are correct tracing them back into the harness. I cut the wires off the regulator so I could do the mods to it instead of the existing car harness. I used the existing wires leading to the alternator with the fusable link inline and then had it checked at my local parts vendor for proper function. Enjoy email if you need more walk through.

labrat, Alright! Thanks for the heads up. I was wondering when this was coming up. I'll be there, but not in my Z this time. It's on jack stands, about to get coil overs and the phantom grip. Hopefully tomorrow. Speaking of Phantom, You want/need a ride to the races? I'll email you. I'm sure Rick will be announcing.

Just this morning I spotted a brand new Q35 infinity and it had some rather interesting rear led lights on it. The thing that doesn't help is they are rap-arounds, but after seeing some of Sleek Z's experiments, using these may be a possibility. The shape seems appealing to the eye, but how it would look on a Z remains to be seen.

Is it me or are parts of the pic "enhanced". Not that I don't like the rear tail light treatment, but something about the pic seems off. I have been watching this post since the beginning and am intrigued by some of the ideas represented and have considered some ideas in the past, not realizing some of the scope that maybe required for such an adventure. I hope to post some of my own ideas in the near future with autocad, if some are familiar. Thanks for bring up such a subject, Sleek Z. I watch with admiration. Hidden in the background and observing...

Being I've gone through this very same thing recently I must chime in. I use to have the previously mentioned co. lets call them @home, and had great connections with them, when I had a connection. Then I moved and it wasn't available, but DSL was available through SWBell if using their phone service. Always had a connection, but wasn't near as fast as the cable with @home. Then I find that earthlink has DSL in my area and the station is only 12000ft from my house and they were promising speeds "up to" 1.5mb download and 256k upload. I had to sign a contract for a year to get the hardware, which I already had, and the software, which I didn't want or need, but faster speeds is what I wanted. Ordered it and was going to wait until the hardware showed up(3weeks later) until I cancelled my other service. 2 days after my order my other service is not working because my new service put in the change order. Now I had nothing. Once the hardware got in and I basically installed the software to get the setup info and I uninstalled it, I was up and running and 500k download with spikes to 600k(twice as good as the other service, but no where near 1.5mb). Upload, which was suppose to be capped at 256k I would spike at 400k, Great! But then a week later the service went down, which was a day after you could get out of the agreement without paying anything. After a week of calling with no service I finally get someone out and they get it fixed. Now it will "time out" for about 30 secs for no apparent reason, which makes it almost as bad as a dail up.I'm back to where I was with the other service as of speed and I'm locked in for a year of service with them because I had to open the package to get the software out, just for the settings, or I can pay for the hardware$175. So, with all that I have said(apparently I also needed to vent), what can you get out of it. After talking with the tech that fixed the connection, all the companies are using the same routers at the same station, but thats where the problem is. Thats their way out. If you can find the companies that don't require an aggreement, then go for them, especially if you already have the hardware. Big company/Little company, it doesn't matter. Your phone lines in your area and how far you are from the station is the main factors on poor speeds and sometimes it's the phone companies poor lines that can screw everything up. angry dsl/cable/dial up user; Johnathan Sanders A.K.A spotfitz PS. The more people that get into these connections, the worse it is going to get! And don't go for the dish, you use dial up for your uploads!