spotfitz

If you really want the camaro radiator, I'll sell you mine. I wish I had gone for the Griffin actually. Not only is this thing small, but from word of mouth, prone to leaks(which I haven't had yet) and busted tanks if run to hot. It took me 3 months to get mine(for $140) and I've actually considered putting one of the stock ones I have back in. This is just my opinion ofcourse. Had it in for about 7 months now. Can give pics. I'll send you mine as soon as my Griffin comes in, once I order it after selling this one. So, in other words, it's working fine now but I know others that would work/look better then this.

What year Z? Is the alternator internally or externally regulated?

Not that I've changed my plans over the years, but just added afew that I think it would be good at, daily use for the fun at the street lights, some 1320's at Ennis/Mansfield and hopefully some road racing in the near future. Why is it that most Z fans hate the idea of a V8? Envy?

Being I own a 260(well, '74 US) I can understand your situation. Go relays as BLKMGK has suggested. They do make a world of difference. One thing you might want to try before this is checking the fuses, even if they look good. Sometimes you can turn one end but they still "look" good and test good. Really! both headlights can work with only one good fuse, but one side will be dim. Check with another fuse from a diferent block that is known to work(w/ same amperage) or buy new. The wipers, can also be a wiring problem, but before that try lubing the joints under the cowl(in front of the front window/wind screen, 4 screws under the back of the hood/bonnet). This can sometimes cause a big resistance and will result in a failure of the switch, which would be the next thing to check. You can pull the switch apart and clean all the contact surfaces with a very fine sanding paper or metal polish. Don't bend the tabs to much as you have to bend them back. If all else fails you coul go relays on this item aswell. Hope it helps

Thanks for the great idea! I just replaced my old beater of an oven. And I just so happen to have a 220 outlet in the garage. Now if only I can get my rear control arms in there.

Is it just me or is that thing sitting off level. Not that it would be a concern at the top speed of 50 with all the down draft and HP that Honda can now produce. On a lighter note. I wonder if some people have actually had their cars change lanes with a sudden side draft, using some of the wings I seen lately?

I just got done putting a GM 1 wire alternator on my 2.8L and checked the voltage and everything is great. I can even notice a difference in idle. I also took pics as I went for future write ups, like we need another for this conversion. I think the 260 is the bastard year, which is why I am documenting it. What I need to do now is make the change from amp to volt gauge and remove the shunt which is one of the last things I need to remove to finish up my engine bay clean up for future rebuilt 2.8L motor and eventual V8. I'll be looking for a 280 voltmeter to replace the one in my 260.(anyone?) What do I need to do to the wires to make the conversion? These wires are the two that are the "T" plug-in on the back of the alternator and the four wires going to the shunt. Two of the wires that go into and out of the shunt are the 12 gauge white/red stripe wire which is the output of the alternator(just connect them?). If this is so then I hook up the lamp and signal wires("T" connection) to the output stud on the alt. and just remove the shunt and connect the 12 gauge wires and the 16 gauge wires to their respected sizes. Follow me? Is this right? Any help would be most welcomed.

Well, got the alternator mounted on the block using an alternator bracket I had from an old 260 motor I bought. Heavy duty piece. Just had to do some cutting and then some bending on the adjuster bracket and it's good to go. I plan to start on the wiring tomorrow. This will be fun. Hopefully it will only take me acouple hours instead of acouple days like my last small projects have turned into. Why can't I leave good enough alone?

I haven't done mine yet(real soon) but I would think you would have to considering you'll be taking the moustache bar off to get the rear cover off. Removing the half shafts seems to be in order aswell, so there are only 8 more bolts holding the thing in there. I think it would be just as easy to drop it and put it up on the work bench. Not that this is an easy task, but better then being under the car pulling spiders out. I would like to hear how someone that has actually done it, done it though... Did you have to pull the diff.?

If at all possible, can I get some pics of these? Or, better yet, where are they. I wouldn't mind seeing them up close and personal. Just sent money for coil overs and inserts. Got the phantom grip ready for installing. Now if I could ever get my parts from MSA I could finish the head work and put the new motor in. I figure one more thing to do at the same time shouldn't delay things to much.

I'll be measuring for mine tonight and tomorrow, using the original adjuster bracket and the alternator belt as a guide. Lucky for me I just so happen to have a rebuilt block on the stand for me to test things out with. To bad I already primed the oil pump though

I'm pretty sure they are still in business. I do believe one of our board members runs that site, or something along those lines. I haven't worked on the bracket as of yet, but was planning on that and several other things to get to this 4 day weekend. I sure hope I get those parts from MSA that I ordered about 2 weeks ago I was just going to take some 1"x1" box tubing and weld some ears on that and then find the right spots to drill the holes for mounting, but I haven't given it much thought. What did you have in mind?

http://zcarcreations.sureshopping.com/searching.asp?cat=Electrical&cR=default That is where you can find the bracket. I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing as you are. I'm about to make my own bracket though. $$ ouch hint hint You can find the outline you can use for doing the electrical at that same site here: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto.htm

FWIW When I was putting in the R-200 I went for the new mount and strap. I basically replaced everything that was replacable with either new rubber or urethane. I had to literally jack the car up using the front of the diff to get the bolts started in the crossmember do to the tightness of the strap. I has no movement what so ever now and all my clunks and thunks went away. Was it worth the $75, yes because of the clunks. Will it hold up to a V8? Don't know yet, but I will eventually BTW, Mike: I need coil overs and struts. Can you help me out?

I was hoping I would see this day soon. For ideas ofcourse. Looks Great Pete. I look forward to hearing some times and seeing more pics. I need a new background. Thanks for sharing so much to our community over the years. I'm sure you will have years of joy from your Z. So, what do you have instore for upgrades now?

Being that I've been looking for something just like that here recently, but couldn't believe some of the prices they were asking for rust buckets nowadays, I would be more then willing to come take it off your hands. I'll come pick it up tomorrow after work, with cash in hand

Does your air box have the winter/summer valve at the front, just behind the very front of the "snorkel"? I thought those had a positive stop to keep from closing all the way, but i could be wrong. Hope it helps.

I just purchased a 100amp 1 wire alternator and it doesn't have a turn on rpm, which probably goes back to the amperage being so low. When I asked for the excite rpm they just looked at me funny because it stated 55 amp at idle, which I guess all depends on the idle speed of say 750? As blueovalz suggested, the higher the amperage the higher the excite rpm.

Thanks guys Well, I'm getting one from OReilly's. 1 wire excite, 55 amp idle and 115 amp cruising. Brand new, life time warranty and chrome plated for $120. Didn't tell me the excite rpm, but I doubt it's anything above 1500. Hoping it's more like 1100, which is about where my Z idles most of the time according to my tach Now if my alternator will keep going until I get this one in...

Was it '73 that GM started using internally regulated alternators. I'm about to purchase a GM alternator on Ebay to go in my Z so it is less of a wiring mess when it comes time for the V8 conversion, plus the extra amps won't hurt. Most of the auctions are '66-'72 and then '73-'86 and everything from '87-up are nolonger V-groove. Correct?

You asked for it! The paper that I received with my ceramic coated header states: Sodium Hydroxide is a common chemical additive in degreasers and is EXTREMELY CAUSTIC! In other words, stay away. For degreasing and/or general cleaning, Simple Green or soap and water. Solvents such as lacquer thinner and acetone will not harm the coating! Water spots, fingerprints, and light grime can be cleaned off using any glass cleaner. Use a soft cotton cloth. No Terry-cloth towels or shop rags. Restoring original brilliant shine, any metal polish that is recommended for aluminum or stainless steel will give fantastic results. On exhuast components test a small area, start the engine and allow component to get hot. Some metal polishes contain petroleum based ingredients that will "haze over" when heated. This "haze" can be removed by re-polishing the affected area. To remove burnt oil, take metal polish and apply it with a white Scoth Brite to the affected area. After the oil has been removed(some light staining may be left behind), polish the area out with metal polish and a soft cotton cloth. Hope all this typing helped you out. Man I need a scanner.

Glad I hopped on here today. Thanks for the heads up on the shipping and a big thanks for bringing this together for all of us. I didn't really need this right now, but I can't pass up deals like this when I think I have the money. Oh no, wait, I don't have the money right now. What was I thinking? I look forward to receiving and should be ordering afew suspension parts soon. I Will be going coil overs. I just haven't decided upon which rates yet. It's all finally starting to come together. I just hope after I buy all this stuff I'll have room in the garage to put it together. Again, thanks Mike!

Thanks so much for posting this. I had it on diskette long ago and the last time I went to look at it I got nothing but errors. Got to love modern technology.

I do believe Scottie-GNZ(member #105) measured his at 64" when he pulled it for the corvette IRS. Don't hold me to that, that may have been his vette IRS measurement. You might try emailing him direct. I'm sure he would be more then willing to answer you.

You might try compressing spring with a spring compressor and then set your collar where you want it, then set your allen set screw, then release the spring compressor. But I would look into the rubber ring aswell. Hope it helps