spotfitz

A friend of mine has one of these rare scoops on his car. They bolt onto the hood, or atleast thats how he had to do it. I think it did work in much the same way the hood vents work. You screw into a threaded hole or onto a stud, but I believe his were worthless and he just drilled through it. I for one would much rather have the one piece. I think it would be easy to make it more stable and more functional at the same time. Looking in through the sides and seeing a miniram may not help the sleeper image.

Thanks for the pics of the grill. I like the look! A friend of mine did something similiar with the squared light covers on flourescent lights. It looked good aswell. I worry about having brittle plastic infront of my radiator though.

Yes, that does look good. I would also like more shots of the grill area. That is one of my last areas to deal with. After 3 hours of cleaning out the garage I found my old grill. I don't plan on using that one now.

2' breaker and the floor jack handle, using the weight of the car is what I did. It's a fine line between just enough room and tire spin, when you already removed the drum brake components. I just wish I would have known about the 280 stub axles being stronger before I did the disc conversion. Sad part is I have the impacts, just don't have a big enough compressor, YET! I once read on the "other" site, rather then using the breaker bar on the nut, use it on the studs of the hub, put a simple 1/2" ratchet on the nut locked into the control arm and you have easy access to the studs for all your weight to push/pull with the biggest tube you can get for leverage. Replacing the studs is something you should do after this venture anyways.

Hey, nice parking job in the garage. Looking real good. Most of the hard work is done.

You can get a throw away camera for about $5(get the one with the flash!) and take it to get developed. They can put it on disc or diskette(not the 5 1/4 floppy though) along with the regular pics, for about $10-$15. The film developers will give you a Kodak program to use to bring it up. Works on most any pc. Even worked on a 486 at work. Hope it helps.

Come on Tim, go ahead and tell them about that nose stud with the chain running to your ear. Don't let him fool you people! The Die, Die, Die my darling Metallica shirt he was wearing on Dyno day was a dead give away. You head banger you. Well, yes, geocities/yahoo sucks, but here you go. You know the drill. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/mypic.JPG PS, I've been growing a beard lately. I'm sure mine will grey just as nicely as Tims in the near future as I'll soon be starting my V8 swap. And I'm hoping my Z will turn out to run just as quick as his.

This isn't your normal problem. Acouple nights ago while coming home my running lights go out. I found a popped fuse, replaced and everything was fine. But I couldn't find the reason for the popped fuse. Now, after driving to work/home with my lights on, upon stopping and turning off the lights, I noticed that when I put the brake lights on, my running lights come on also. As if the running lights were hooked up to the brake pedal. I'm sure it's a short of some kind somewhere. I would think it's the brake power wire arcing off on the running light power wire. I just can't figure out where it would do it! I thinking at the rear, but I've been looking for any sign of a broken grommet in the body for the harness, but with no luck. Anyone have a clue? I plan to chase wires down this weekend. I just put relays for the headlights in last weekend, which I HIGHLY recommend. Just wanted a heads up on this one. I've searched acouple different forums with no luck.

Gary, if you want, send your pics to me and I'll put them on the web for cut and paste, or email me directly and I'll give you some hints. You do know your my inspiration, right?

I know most of the people that posted a response are running turbo(which has higher ambient underhood temps), but I'll jump in here. When I got my header, intake and fuel rail ceramic coated(http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/intake_header1.jpg) I thought I wouldn't need a heat shield anymore. After afew drive thru delays or a long red light and some serious sputtering leaving the place each time I realized it was heat soak of the SU's. I made a heat shield(http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/heatshield.jpg) out of aluminum sheet(3/32"), ehich was bigger then original and polished both sides and mounted it in the original location. Unfortunately, I failed to clear coat or ceramic coat the heat shield, so it doesn't look as good now, but it's still functional! I won't say heat problems are a thing of the past, but I can grab the bottom of my SU's after a hard run and it's not hot at all. The domes are even cold. This wasn't the case before the heat shield. BTW, you'll probably have to copy and paste the links, thanks to yahoo being such an @$$

Thats a shame. Besides the little bit of rust I can see on the rocker, it appears to be a clean car. Looking over all the bumpers in todays cars and realizing the regulations of "5mph bumpers" is a joke, I don't think with our Z cars there are many options to protect us against a hard impact. Even a full blown cage and reinforcements to the bumpers connecting to that cage, our Z's will suffer significant damage. I would estimate the impact that it took to make this Z look the way it does, did not exceed 35mph. With that said to be true, who on this board thinks their Z could withstand a 5mph impact in a parkinglot and still drive away? Probably, most everyone, bumpers or not. Now, how many of those people think their Z could withstand a 35mph impact and still be willing to repair it after you get it towed home? Protecting ourselves and our loved ones is the main concern here. The car is just that, a car(except in Petes case ). Whether it is a Z car or what have you. It's the carbon based lifeforms inside that we have to consider the most. Cage it and don't worry about what happens to whats going to be left of the car. Reinforce if your inclined to do so. I am more worried about what that reinforcement can do to the passengers, as Dan suggested. Crumple zones in new cars are there for a reason. I'll be caging mine and reinforcing where I have to, just to keep flex down to a minimum. Other then that, a harness. What else can we do?

I have been fighting a similiar battle. I've had a miss(rough idle, surging, and sputters) for a long time now. After changing to MSD and changing out the carbs for ZTherapy's, changing the dist. for a known good one, checking timing over and over again. Double and tripple checking cam timing, oil pump/dist shaft location, I have come to the same conclusion. Play in the dist. to crank connection. I plan to replace this shaft to see if it helps or possibly go with a crank trigger. I really don't want to spend that much on this L series, because I'll be going V8, but I want to keep adding up kills before it goes under the knife.

I know for a fact that when I went to the track looking for atleast 15's with my straight 6 w/ stock(basically) everything(minus emissions). SS ZTherapy SU's, ceramic coated 6 to 1 header,intake, fuel rail, 3:90 R200, 5 speed with a (ok, time for discuss) 17 time(with a slipping clutch), yes I said 17's(again, clutch slipping in 2nd and 3rd.). I was very disturbed. After all the money I spent into this car and still only beating Honda's(badly, mind you). Without a V8 in these cars, you are lucky to get 12's without turbo. With a V8 you are easily in the 12's maybe even 11's, which is where I hope to be in the hopefully near future, with little effort. TPIS, miniramIII and T56 is a wonderful thing and within reach without a monthy payment. Keep giving me ideas and I'll run with it! I know enough to be very dangerous. Very, very dangerous. I will be in the 10's, trust me, I'm anal!! Let me be a prodigy. I love a challenge!

Moustache bar should be closest to the tank with ears facing forward. The diff mounts Big side should be facing forward. Try loosening the moustache bar some to get it to drop down, but have the mount mounted to the diff, so you only have one bolt(stud) to worry about. If it's to tight you may booger the threads this way though, but it worked great for me. Don't feel to bad about this. It took me three times of putting that stupid thing in to get it right. I've heard afew others on here have the same prob. Hope it helps

I have a chance to get some used(but fairly new) springs for my 260. The only problem is the guy doesn't know what brand or spring rate they are. The guy HE bought his car from was in the process of transforming it into a street racer and it was VERY low and very stiff. The set that was on this car(now for sale) is painted gold/bronze. He has two other pairs of springs. One pair being baby-blue and the other pair being off white/grey, all also for sale. My thoughts are the baby-blues are Eibach, but ofcourse spring rate is undetermined. The gold/bronze are my first consideration, because it's a complete set, but he considered them stiff. Being stiff isn't that bad, right? Can someone shed some light on the name brands of these springs by their color codes? Is there a code on them for spring rates?

I know for a fact that the early 260 bumpers are not the same as the 240 bumpers that mounted up close to the body. From what I've gathered, one difference is the small bracket that is on the very ends of the inside of the bumper that holds it to the body. My 260 didn't have these brackets. I decompressed the shocks and pushed them in, within 1/8" of the body. I then put a small screw in the shock to keep it in place. Mounting the ends to the body was a challenge, since there isn't much room in there to hold anything in place while bolting it to the body. Acouple manifold washers and a stainless steel bolt and nylon nut on each side and I was home free. Hope it helps. I should have pics soon.

You know, it seems your always bitchin' nowadays. I only got to run one time and my rear end broke With your swap, I do believe with your year, this will move the diff. back about 1 1/2" from it's original position, which should put it where it's suppose to be But you already know that. You should be able to use your original yokes and get one custom made for about $100-$150. A place I would recommend is Driveshaft King off 30 just west of Dallas about 2 miles. But don't you live in Plano? I hope your not trying to find a direct bolt on.

But did anyone catch the license plate?

About 2 years ago I bought an E31 from All Z Specialists, that had been untouched, for $150. I was also able to get alot of other parts off the same motor at the same time for no additional charge. Hope it helps

Looking real good. I now know where I need to go when I get this '78 I've been looking at buying. I guess RPMS and I will have to make an outing and flip a coin for who gets the first ride. Ok, you asked first Scott. BTW Scott, When am I going to see your new paint job. Mines almost ready for you to paint it.

Either ones will work with that diff. If I remember correctly, it was in '82 that they started making the transition from bolt-on to slip-in. Good luck with the swap.

When I did the 4 speed to 5 speed swap on my '74 I used the 5 speed drive shaft because the ujoints on the other shaft needed replacement and this one wasn't that bad. The difference in length is about 1/4-3/8" if I remember correctly. I plan to replace the bad joints and swap it out, one of these days. Probably soon since I have a tranny leak somewhere. Glad to hear the carb issue was resolved. I would atleast pull the domes and piston(carefully, not to bend the needles) and clean everything thoroughly. Could give you alittle more responsiveness and gas mileage. Not that we worry about gas mileage these days.

Cheap carb sync tool, a length of small dia. hose(vacuum hose works great) and your ear. Pull your air filter and put one end of the hose in a hand with about 1" sticking out. Put the other end up to your ear. While the car is running, put the 1" into the bore of the a carb, using your hand to set up a specific distance your inserting the hose. Now move to the other carb using the same distance into the bore of the carb. You may have to adjust the distance inserted depending on your vacuum/idle, but always use the same distance for each carb. By listening to the hiss from each carb you can tell which one is pulling more air then the other. Adjust to make the same hissing noise from each carb, while at the same time keeping your idle at a good level. Set balance adjustment with your head between the carbs, listening for the opening point of each and your good to go. Setting the mixture is about as easy. Ask and I'll fill you in. I do believe I got my unisync from MSA. Was about $30. Sad part is, I prefer previously described method. Hope it helps.

If the float is "sunk" then it could be one of two things. The fuel inlet needle valve could be stuck or your float has a leak. Pull the float and see if fuel drains from the float. Try submerging it under water and look for bubbles. While you have everything apart, clean clean clean. Put the top half of the float chamber back together(exactly) and flip it upside down. Blow air(with your mouth) through the overflow tube and move the float down(since it's upside down) and when the float stops the flow of air, hold float and measure the distance from the top of the float(remember, your upside down) to the seating edge of the lid. This measurement should be 1/2". If it's not, bend tab until you get it precisely 1/2". That should set the float properly. Put back together and see how it goes. Email me or post back here. I'll be back on tomorrow. This may be alittle brief, but it should get you going. Go to go now. I think I typed this in about 20 secs.

Welcome to the forum picsofupl, Running your tank empty allows your fuel pick up to suck up all the junk floating around in your tank. Changing the fuel filter should get you up and going better. Try that first. Your pick up may be clogged up aswell. You can try using compressed air through the lines going into the tank(while fuel cap is off) to clear out the screen. If that doesn't work you will have to drain and drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop with a cleaning vat(sp?). Get them to seal it after the cleaning. While you have the tank out you should inspect any fuel lines going to the tank, for brittleness/cracking. Replace with only fuel rated lines of the same size as what was pulled off. You could just go with a fuel cell, but thats a whole other can of worms. Good luck