spotfitz

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: And I had made one alteration which was to cut out the ears as one piece, with a strip of metal joining them together. This turned out not to be such a good idea. I thought it would make it easier when welding the ears to the ring, but it created much grinding work - definately not worth it. When they fabbed my brackets from the flat ones, they simply cut the ears off from where I told them to and at what angle and made a jig to put everything in position and "fill"weld from the one plate to the ears. The welder did a good job and it didn't need much grinding to make pretty. I was going to have them powder coated. You Really see them things going down the road.

quote: Originally posted by spotfitz: [QB]I have to put my $2 in here. Since I have already made brackets for the '82-'83 ZX caliper/rotor combo using the flat Maxima brackets off an '88, I can say that I used alot of the information off the drawings Danno made, for comparison purposes only. For the process of using the flat bracket to make the offset bracket I had to take every and all measurements I could get to make this modification work. When gathering information from the flat bracket and from measurements of my own equipment and comparing them to this public drawing I found all the offset, bore and center line measurements to be correct within reason.(don't jump me yet)Considering the bracket is a stamped item with "flashing" I would consider the drawings to be good enough for the brackets to work. And heres why. Even after many hours of measuring and test fitting and measuring some more and then numerous hours in AutoCad drawing them and finding more measurements were needed, I still had to do some modifying on my "CNC machined" brackets to make them work, this even after getting them back to the house only to find that the center bore was opened up on an off center state, do to the original center being off center by the manufacturer(did you get all that?). And even after acouple more hours with the machinist to fix this problem I still had to modify them to work. Depending on the method and/or material used to make these brackets they can be "adjusted" afterwords as I had to do. As a side note, if anyone wants my drawings for nothing more then to COMPARE with or take ideas from or anything else I am willing to share them. I do have to make a disclaimer. Although mine work for my application, I am in no way responsable for you &^%&^% them up! http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Bracket.JPG PS. I hate Geocities [QB]

I have to put my $2 in here. Since I have already made brackets for the '82-'83 ZX caliper/rotor combo using the flat Maxima brackets off an '88, I can say that I used alot of the information off the drawings Danno made, for comparison purposes only. For the process of using the flat bracket to make the offset bracket I had to take every and all measurements I could get to make this modification work. When gathering information from the flat bracket and from measurements of my own equipment and comparing them to this public drawing I found all the offset, bore and center line measurements to be correct within reason.(don't jump me yet)Considering the bracket is a stamped item with "flashing" I would consider the drawings to be good enough for the brackets to work. And heres why. Even after many hours of measuring and test fitting and measuring some more and then numerous hours in AutoCad drawing them and finding more measurements were needed, I still had to do some modifying on my "CNC machined" brackets to make them work, this even after getting them back to the house only to find that the center bore was opened up on an off center state, do to the original center being off center by the manufacturer(did you get all that?). And even after acouple more hours with the machinist to fix this problem I still had to modify them to work. Depending on the method and/or material used to make these brackets they can be "adjusted" afterwords as I had to do. As a side note, if anyone wants my drawings for nothing more then to COMPARE with or take ideas from or anything else I am willing to share them. I do have to make a disclaimer. Although mine work for my application, I am in no way responsable for you &^%&^% them up!

Yes, just one tip. Once I get done with my body work and you paint mine, be sure not to leave the zebra stripes. It's amazing how these "little" projects turn out to be more involved, daily. I was just planning to weld up my trim holes and float them into the existing layer of paint and be done. I'm now thinking of moving my headlights, removing drip rail, new hood vents, single windshield wiper, remove door handles......Will it ever end?

quote: Originally posted by Dan Juday: Boy that was quick. http://www.arizonazcar.com/buckets.html Oh wait, this is that grouch isn't it. I'll keep looking. I had been considering this mod do to recent pics from shows and this post intrigued me. After looking at what I have I also have both. Strange. Well, I figured, I "might as well" do this now since I am doing body work. Assuming that MR. Friendly isn't rude if I call him, do you think I would get hit with the $1K minumum order for fiberglass products? Has anyone installed these from Arizona Zcar? Do they mount in the same fashion or are they made to be molded to other fiberglass body moldings that they supply? I know a picture says a thousand words, but I guess I'm not listening.

quote: Originally posted by Frank280z: 700-? Is that for a complete airless system? Or just the gun? I'm looking into a Sharpe or an ATD model. Retails for about 120-150. I too do not know alot about these guns. The pics look the same between the gravity feed spray guns and the hvlp guns. Three regulators: paint flow, air flow, and material width spray pattern. Kind of confusing to be honest. There does seem to be an upscale hvlp gun manu. called Sata. Up there with DeVilbiss. Actually, that includes everything, including needle, nozzles, gun, hose and compressor. I don't recall the rating of the gun and pump. I'll look alittle more into it tomorrow. I'll "borrow" the mag. I do believe there was another brand that was alittle cheaper, but seemed alittle to cheap. I don't know if this brand has a cheaper one then $300, but I'll check up on it. I'll be needing one soon. Hopefully sooner then I think

I have been looking at the Fuji Q3 with interest. It was in a catalog at work. Seemed good for the price. It illustrated most their models and many other brands, but this brand seemed to have the most features and flexibility for the price. They ranged from $300-$700. Not bad for a stand alone system.

Yes, you are correct on both accounts or is that the fuel pump?. [This message has been edited by spotfitz (edited April 11, 2001).]

Terrible deal, BTW where is it at?

quote: Originally posted by CheeZer240: spot, what bracket did you use for this conversion, not the maxima bracket. It actually is a Maxima bracket, but from an '88 that was modified for the right offset. '82 ZX rotors and calipers on a '74Z. Here is a pic of just the bracket installed. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Bracket.JPG Again, you may have to copy and paste. I hate geocities Do to the upward angle of the bracket/calipers I was able to clear the sway bar and use the stock cables. I just had to switch sides with it to "shorten" them. The angle also forced me to remove the hard line bracket and move the flex line bracket as you can see in the first pic. ------------------ spotfitz

quote: Originally posted by blueovalz: I get a "this page not available" when I click on your URL. For some reason you'll have to copy and paste in your browser and it will work. Don't ask me why. I have no clue.

I finally ran out of film in the cam and got it developed today. I also have a good pic of what I did with the braided hose and brackets. I know this isn't nearly as impressive as Mikelly's, but I'm pleased(at this point in time) with the way they came out. And, just incase some of you are wondering. I didn't paint everything under there yet, because I have yet to do the outter control arm bushings and struts/springs. Maybe within the next couple of months though. Hope you enjoy. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Reardisc.jpg http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Hoses.jpg [This message has been edited by spotfitz (edited April 03, 2001).]

Owen, I would be interested in one. I also just hooked up my extra VCR to "watch" Gone in 60 sec. for the second time. In D/FW ------------------

I have pics of what I did, but their still in the camera. I removed the bracket from the housing altogether and relocated the body bracket to just forward of the strut, straight up from the half shafts, back on the body. There is still plenty of play with where my calipers ended up. My are at almost 45* up from horizontal allowing more play with the line. The line clears the tire by about 1 1/2" when suspension is fully compressed and easily clears the strut housing and is lower then the spring. I'll get the film developed as soon as I get the pics taken of the heat shield I just picked aluminum up for.

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: I had heard that the zx moustache bars won't work and you needed a 280z one? Please someone tell me that is incorrect and you can use the zx one! Much easier to find. I thought '79 and up had a trailing link suspension and didn't have a moustache bar at all. I know the '82 I pulled my R200 from didn't have a moustache bar and wasn't '79-'83 all the same, suspension wise?

I only used the slide hammer way, but I had the slide hammer and only needed to rent the attachment. While getting the attachment the guy at the counter asked if I needed the hammer and he told me it was only $15 rental, which I would get back, minus tax on the $15. All total, renting the hammer and attachment after returning it would cost about $4. Why risk it?

A great example of what alot of work can net you. Looks great Evan! Just more inspiration for me.

This is in NO WAY pointed towards Tony(I did not use him for this, but plan to use him in the future), but be careful when picking your "professional". I have gotten my intake,fuel rail and header coated by a coating shop and the header is now rusting($242). I have seen this same shops work before and it looked great. I even know of someone on this board that has used this shop without problems, so far(not installed yet). Get some of their customers #'s and call!

Pics. You are taking pics right. Right!?

If memory serves me correct, the dual pickup is for an auto. I would think that if you could use this with another ECU you could program different timing, but don't quote me on that.

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: I would love to find out where this one is from. He actually made the airdam himself. I think he was selling them at one time, but it's been awhile since I found his email. I've had one of his car pics as wallpaper for over a year now. I tried to email him about getting one, but never got a response. He is part/head of a Z club in Britain, if I remember correctly. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/NiceZ.jpg [This message has been edited by spotfitz (edited March 03, 2001).]

I am going to do a V8 Z. ? is, would it be best to get the car or the motor/tranny first? I have a friend in a Chevy dealership that could get me a motor/tranny pretty cheap and I have found a '79 Z. Since I'm still working on my '74 in the garage(which is where it will stay) I would think getting the motor ready would be better in my case, but if I wait to get the car I may have to find another and the harder it will become to get a good one. Opinions/circumstances needed.

Just thought I would let everyone know how my rear disc conversion/tranny&diff. swap went. After all the time and effort that went into looking for and then getting the brackets made(which was the hardest part of it all) and waiting on parts I finally got everything together last week. I've taken her out on afew runs to see if everything was ok. I then took her out on the highway to see what 5th gear actually felt like. Nice to see such a low rpm doing 70mph. I also got to see what 110 was like too(No traffic at 2a.m.). Man what a thrill. All in all, everything is great. New brake booster, front suspension work, struts and springs all around(here I come SCCA) is what I'll be working on next. After all that, I'll be pulling here apart for painting. I give it 2 months before that though. BTW, during the weekend I managed to hook up with one of the members here and got to see his very clean 280Z that is receiving a nicely done V8. This site and Greg's car has inspired me. Is it possible to have to many projects? I really want to start on a V8 Zcar RIGHT NOW! Anyone in D/FW area want to give me a ride in their HybridZ?

Hope your not near a major city. Same year or newer applies in the Metroplex.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: I seem to have only gotten one EBrake spring. I'm either gonna have to go scrounge around in the mud at the salvage yard or go to the dealer. It'll suck to have to pay $15 for a single spring when the calipers cost $25/pair. Would that spring thats missing be on the caliper marked left?(the right caliper has one and the left doesn't) Mine was missing when I pulled them from the yard. I just found this out today. I'm wondering if it came this way. If you plan to pull one from the yard, just buy something else and put it up on the counter with what ever else you got. More then likely they'll give the spring to you for free.