spotfitz

Wouldn't the length from tie rod end to tie rod end increase when tightening down the rack, do to the angle of the tie rods unless the ties rod ends are even with the rack? The rack being at a higher point on a horizontal plan, to the tie rods ends(or tie rod end center line), and then lowering the rack would lengthen the distance do to the angle, right? Am I making any since? Or in other words: Unless the tie rod ends are on the same horizontal plan(and parallel) as the rack, then any movement up or down would cause a toe in affect, unless calculated for in the alignment. I can visualize it, but hard to put in words.

Damn, just when I thought my day was going bad. I'll have another shot of crown for you. Will this Monday never end?

That was my first question. It looks as if it is outside of the seat belt pockets, but who cares if I need to go with 5 point! I really want to know if I need to climb over a bar to get in. I'm looking forward to future pics!

Ok, "Shy". Sorry, couldn't help it. If it is one thing I have found in the past 6 years of Z's, that no one, even if normally shy, is shy when it comes to Z's. You are addicted, thats why you are here. Talk about what you know or talk about what you would like to know, just to learn. Screw everyone else unless they are educated in Z's, then rest are ignorant. It's all a learning process. Thats why this forum is here!

I do remember the one conv. that was mentioned. Is was 383 powered with dual exhaust, but the link doesn't work anymore. This is something I came up with in my large collection of bookmarks. Hope it helps http://www.jasonjarvis.com/

Yes, do business with this guy! I won 2 of his auctions with "buy now" and on one I just put "save on shipping?" He shipped them both in the same package and returned the extra shipping charges to me. Very honest! I have a paper of everything he sells, including what he usually doesn't put up on auction, plus prices. Some of the stuff can be had for alittle cheaper from Vic or MSA, but he has quality stuff. I don't know how he works with the non"buy now"s but I never even had to talk with him, which got me worried until the package arrived 3 days later. I don't think he gave me a report though I would gladly do business with him again.

The stuff I have is: 39263 Dark Titanium Metallic made by SEM. It is actually a bumper coater in a spray can. I picked this info up from Zcar about 3 years ago. After seeing one of the original 240Z rebuilds in Courtesy Nissan's showroom, this is very very close to what that actual color was or is, if not the exact color. Without getting them to take their Z out of the showroom in the sun light I can't say it is exact.

Titanium metallic is what I have found to be the closest to the original color. Hope it helps

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html http://www.arizonazcar.com/spoil.html http://www.courtesy-nissan.com http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html http://www.zcarparts.com/ if they still have them I'm sure atleast 3 of these still carry them ranging from fiberglass to urethane. Let me know when you find the best deal. I've been considering the 3 piece myself. Or, you could see how much Scottie will take for his whole back hatch. Last I heard, he had a better one that he planned to put on. Hope it helps

I've got a rebuilt F54 with no flywheel. I was thinking of going aluminum or just lightening the flywheel I have off my old 2.6L, but I don't plan on having this engine in the car for more then 2 years(conversion starts). I'll already be in the hole for the block and rebuilding the E31 or E88 that I have and don't want to invest much more into this motor since I'll be doing the conversion later. Will the 2.6L flywheel work on the F54 without any problems. I know our L series are internally balanced, but I've also read about differences in turbo, coupe and 2+2 flywheels. The rebuilt F54 came out of a turbo and will be going in a '74 coupe. What are my choices. Sorry guys, I would search the archives, but I have No connection at home right now, do to my ISP having problems for 4 days now I need to make a choice by next week.

About 3" from the top edge of the hatch or 5" up from the back edge of the quarter window. Atleast thats where mine measures out on my '74 coupe. Hope it helps

Alright Phantom Finally making the jump. I was wondering when you were going to do it. I know you've been considering it for atleast acouple of years now. I'm sure Jerry isn't to keen on you doing this, but thats probably why your going through John's cars. I would hope to think you've found a new daily driver while this is going on. If not, email me. I have some leads at some up coming auctions in the area I for one can say, do it. After the little ride I had in Lone Star 1's Z out at Ennis I have expanded my options, so to speak. Let me know if I can help out in anyway. I have a good source of info gathered in bookmarks on my pc.

I have a 260 electronic ignition module(which did work before I pulled it to go MSD 6AL) and several distributors of various years with single and dual pick-ups, if you want them for cheap. Email me direct. I love to deal with swapping parts. Hint, hint

Acouple of things you might want to try. On each side of each carb there are bushings for the throttle shafts. Yours are probably worn. Try putting a small glob of grease over that area on each bushing to seal it from outside air. That may be your leaning problem. Check your float levels to be sure they are spot on. The measurement from the bottom of the top to the top of the float, once it has stopped fuel flow(or air flow in this case as you blow through it to determine when it does stop) should be 1/2". While you have those floats off you might want to check the gross jet screens for crud. More then likely the grease trick will work, but if you backfire through the carb again, you'll have to reapply the grease on the throttle shaft bushings. I've thought of trying silicone in this spot, but have yet to try it. Hope it helps.

I haven't had much luck with this either. The last time I had a window replaced I just bought the seal and called up a windshield shop. They can have you out and in, in no time, while still in your driveway for minimal dollars. Cutting the old rubber out from the back side worked for me once, but without help I broke the stupid thing trying to pick it up wrong. PS, most places WON'T mess with the chrome trimming in the seal, but with some luck and some lubricant it can be done pretty easily.

Try switching the sides the cables goto and moving that cable tension spring to a higher location. I don't remember where I put my spring, but once I swapped the cables around(your basically crossing them to take some of the length away) the spring did what it was suppose to do.You can just see the angle of the cable in this pic, just behind the caliper. I'm not sure what conversion you have done, but I thought this might help. You will probably have to cut and paste it. http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Reardisc.jpg

Another one to try is denatured alcohol. We use it for cleaning acrylic plastics at work. There are sand paper(not really paper but) that is like leather, for taking scratches out of plexiglass. I used it on airplane windows back during schooling and I tstill have it. It's rated in microns. As stated before, I would get a dumby lenses for any tests you perform.

I've had a '74 for about 5 years now and I was waiting the year I didn't have to take the sniffer test. 25 years and older are the rules for the D/FW metroplex. Some of the outer counties don't have anything but visual, but you need proof of residency in that county. If you plan to start the swap as soon as you get the Z, get the newest(best condition usually) Z you can get, which would be the '78. By the time you get the swap done it will be exempt, unless you get paid for working on the car, but then you would probably be able to inspect it yourself then, wouldn't you. The 280Z's are said to be heavier, but at the cost of a stiffer frame. Pull the bumpers and put 240 or early 260 bumpers on and most people can't tell the difference until they look at the interior.

Nick, Where in Ft.Worth are you. I live and work just east of there(about 5 minutes away). Want to hook up? Email me Here are some sites that may be of interest to you. It seems you have the same basic plan as I do for your Z. http://www.wopot.com:81/removal/ http://www.rolerdynamics.com/ http://www.cyberauto.com/ http://www.amstreetrod.com/catalog.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/Mallory/index.asp That should keep you busy for awhile. I do have more, just don't have the time to paste them all. Hope it helps

Yes, it sounds alot like a loose belt. Check for any loose belts. I use this method. You should be able to pick the longest span from one pulley to another and turn the belt no more then 90*. Something else that has helped me in the past is dishwashing liquid. Rub it on the V side of the belt everywhere you can reach and let dry. Sometimes two or more applications are needed, being you can only get to certain lengths of the belt at one time without turning the motor over. It helps get them sticky. There is also belt dressing, but I have never used it.

It's great to see you got it all back together, even if you did have some spare parts left over. I am begging to atleast see you fly by me in this monster when I come down there. I had been excited about just seeing your Z up on stands, but now I get to see it actually roll down the street with a big cloud billowing out the back end? I can't stand it! As always, a master piece. I'll try to get a vid cam for some filming while I'm down there. Just another addition to the burnout vids I've been seeing lately

There was a good acticle on IdealZ, but my link doesn't work anymore. This is a link from Zhome that may be of help. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

What, no digital camera for Christmas. Where are the pics? Just buy a disposable camera and get it developed to disc. This is a mod I've been wanting to do and I now have a welder I can borrow. I just need alittle more confidence.

East of Orlando? I'll be at Disney on the 1st. I'll be making a trip to see some family I haven't seen in many years. I'll be going I-4 east to 75 South(for about an hour). I would love to make this a vacation I'll never forget and look some of my fellow Z heads up down in Florida. I still consider all of you a part of my big family on the net. Meeting anyone from my old neck of the woods would be a blast. I just hope I get a fast rental for the track.

The ones on my 260 all work the same. As stated, they have a clip that holds them in. They release easier from the back, pushing out the nipple of the emblem. They will click and then slide out. C pillar, fender and hatch all came off the same way. Getting the hood emblem off without breaking it wasn't a problem. It was already broke