Here comes trouble

I plan to fabricate the door latch and post pictures on Yahoo.photo. Here is two Honda latches http://new.photos.yahoo.com/larryjohnson97438/album/576460762387538659

I will attempt to document my fabrication of the Honda door latch modification. I almost have a clue to "almost" how it works and by the grace of Rube Goldberg....... I will find out as I fabricate the (@#%$^&&**(*^%$) gizmo latch. Here are two Honda latches in my Yahoo Photos to begin Notice the actuating rod on one latch and that is why the VW will not work because it is a short hook latch. And your on your own in the Yahoo photos.........the program was changed..I lost my Mozilla web browser and got stuck with Microcrap Internet Explosion again. Yahoo hijacked my ancient monitor and my actual viewing space is now 6" x9" People tell me that my windoww 98 is obselete.http://new.photos.yahoo.com/larryjohnson97438/album/576460762387538659

The CVCC latch came from a junkyard in Springfield, Oregon and cost me $5.00............The wife tossed the last two I had. I carry the latest one in my pocket at all times ! I bought all the steel fabrication material in 4 foot lengths that cast just over $15.00. I cannot see the VW latch working since it has a hook catch on the end. The Honda has a straight rod to push the fabricated part in to release the door latch

I went and grabbed a CVCC latch today and bought the steel stock to build the latch adapter for about 6 GtO's. I am still confused about the diagram but after the parts are cut.................................maybe this dyslexic brain can visulize. The Honda latch has a key lock in the push button which is the reason I prefer it over the stock handles. I just have this bias against electro things that that go thunk. i bought a complete 1984 Nissan Maxima with the L6 overdrive automatic tranny to put in my GTO. Hopefully this year I will make a showing and get something done on the GTO. I have some dual down draft webers and hope to get the car running again. and more Hopefully tomorrow i can come up with a 240 Z choke cables.3 into 2 exhaust headers, mechaical fuel pump at the junk yard and some other parts. I have these pants with some real big pockets.

32/36 DGV dual carbs Z Main Jet primary....140 Main Jet secondary...135 Air jet primary ...165 Air Jet Secondary....160 Idle Jet secondary.........50 Idle Jet primary....55 Float needle and seat................2.0 Main venturi (choke tube)....26/27 Primary emulsion tube......F50 Secondary Emulsion tube...... f-6 more info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118404

weber dual downdraft 32/36 DGV 5A specifications for 240-280 Z Part Numbers Main Jet Primary....................#73801 . Main Jet Secondary................#73801 Secondary Idle Jet................ #74403 Primary Idle Jet....................#74403 Needle....................... .......#64900.001 Needle valve ..............# 79519.200 Primary emulsion tube...........# 61440.216 secondary emulsion tube ..... #611440.211 Primary Air Corrector jet.......#77201 Secondary Air corrector Jet . #77201 Main Primary jet....................#73801 Secondary main Jet .........#73801 . Float..............................# 41030.20 Power valve...... # 64235.016 Settings PrimaryMain Jet ............... 1.40 mm Secondary Main Jet................ . 1.35 mm Primary Idle Jet.................... .55mm secondary Idle Jet................. .50 mm Needle Valve........................ 2.00 mm Primary emulsion tube......... F50 secondary emulsion tube ..... F6 Primary Air Corrector jet....... 1.65 mm Secondary Air corrector Jet.....1.60 mm Primary Venturi..................... 26 mm secondary venturi..................27 mm Primary Auxillary Venturi..... 3.50 mm Seconadry Auxillary ventuiuri...3.50 mm Float measurement ..........46.5 mm Needle Valve ..................2.00 mm Pump Jet ......................2.00 mm.. Secondary idle jet ..... .50mm Primary idle jet ..... .55 mm Primary venturi ....26 mm Secondary venturi ....... 27 mm

Further North, the problem is even worse. I applied for a grant with Home Land Security to do research on the problem. An HLS official from Bagdad promised a Hum Vee and Junior Space Cadet badge to get me started on the research

Great tool . Since I have the garage, sheds , carport and third bedroom filled with Datsun junk, the jack will be handy in the truck bed of my wife's GMC. I have an L20 B there now two 280 Z seats and plans to pick up a ZX and 240 blocks tomorrow.

Owen has my my thanks and to all the others who have contributed so much to this site. I started in 2000 under some user name and then under Tomahawk Z in 2001 and then off for a couple years (on exile from society). After a long correspondence with Dave Linfoot v8 240 Z in Portland, we finally met in person today. I wish I could meet all the fellows that I have become acquainted with over the years. With all the help and support I recieved..............I am still in the project stage becuz........just too many modifications that I cannot resist. Must be my 217th change in brake modifications. Stuck between carburatoin, injection. V8 or v6 (I have 4 350 SBC's) but that 3.4 V6rtec V6 has my attention that is in the GMC Sierra that belongs to my wife ............................................................so it goes with the journey and the destination still out of site (Hybid Z that is)

Scoripan Z should be glad that Chelle has an operating example of their rear hatch. Kit cars are about modifications and any modification should be of interest even to the maker. No where did I get the impression that she was bad mouthing Scorpian Z. She must have about the most kick ass privately owned GTO replica in existence with your modified hatch.Take a deep breath and relax, you will get over it!

http://eugene.craigslist.org/car/206596889.html ferrari replica for sale - $4900 This car belongs to former member "Nezzie 76" Nathan Fleming who trashed my Tomahawk Zee by attempting to splash a mold from it while I was in federal prison. I sued him in court and came out $1800.00 for the damages to my Tomahawk. I did most of the real work on this VR car which included all the free welding, suspension work, roll bar and fabrication of the hardtop and body panel fit etc The VR car in my opinion is a lost cause due to rust from the donar Z car. The gas cap is mine that he stole off my Tomahawk http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/velorossa22/album?.dir=de72scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

JP got his Vello Rossa kit and I got motivated to renew work on the GTO. I bought a $100 1982 ZX parts car for the complete brake upgrade following Terry Oxendale's example. I was planning and obtainedthe Toyota 4X4 calipers one 300 ZX rotor but the adapter costs $110.00 and probably well worth it but for my application the ZX upgrade will be adequete and $100 for a complete ZX suits me fine.. I can store the engine. I will be starting the suspension modificatiions attempt to fabricate Terry's "poor man's rear toe in adjuster" , rear sway bar and the front tension rod adjuster via Mikekelly The sand blast cabinet is assembled. The six new Yahoo photos show the use of galvanized sheathing as a hood mold for fiberglass to decrease the gap between hood and fenders and cowl. I cut out my GTO cowl, shortened the fiberglass hood to incorporate the OEM cowl for better access. The original Alpha replicas used the OEM cowl I bought a new roll of galvanized sheathing at a garage sale for a dollor. I used a small sheet metal brake to bend a flange on the sheet metal to lay fiberglass against on the bottom of the hood decreasing the gap but providing a half inch fiberglass flange under the hood. Sheathing either aluminum or galvanized makes great molds since the fiberglass will not adhere. And when removed after fiberglass cures the metal is recycleable. I paid $47.00 for a gallon of Evercoat laminating resin at discount store. Price has doubled. My consolation is that this resin wets and lays the fiberglass up very good and a stored can will last a few years. ....http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http% 3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

The plates were designed to fit only the 240-280 Z without welding with a slight cut out at the top of the strut tower.. and have camber adjustment only - no castor adjustment. The monoball and attaching nut are only for the 240-280 z style strut cartridges and stock height strut tubes. The adjusting plate goes on top of the strut tower and the U shaped attachment plate goes on the bottom of the strut tower. Use of the plates should lower the the car at least two inches since the strut mounting insulator is not used and discarded. I plan to use 12 inch adjustable coilovers. This design can be modified to fit the 510 by the fabrication of a larger adusting plate and lower attachment plate.

Photos of plasma cut camber adjusting plates http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos The camber plate holes for the UB Machine monoball housings are (.015) undersize to allow a shoulder to be turned on the housing for more strength when welded to the camber plate (these pictures later). The top of the strut tower will have to be trimmed to allow the adjusting plate to slide (pictures later)....more camber photos........http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=a576

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=a576 I ordered 24 adjusting plates to be plasma cut yesterday and should be ready next week. Hopefully I will get back on this project. I will get some pictures out on the new cut adjusting plates when I recieve 'em http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

I have bought tools at garage sales that I still do not know what they are for but provide wonderment and entertainment for me. Just watching that vaccum gauge needle pulsating going up and down must be a comfort and worth the expense...great vaccum readings....you need a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge, compass and mirror mounted level.

In the Hybrid Z classified (MAYBE ''Project Cars") YNOT (Bill) has a Vello Rossa with interesting door and windshield modifcations

Aux..................go to Goodwill and stock up on cheap wallets...... go cruiising WalMart (s) with a used empty wallet in your back pocket and have a supply of condoms in the glove compartment

For an L20 B the dizzy is set 180 off but maybe still timed right. To my eyes # 1 plug wire is the only one connected correctly......Correct.Firing order counter clockwise is 1-3-4-2...LO0ks like engine is wired wrong :1-2-3-4.... LOL.. a 510 with a weber carb L20 B would still run wired this way... Don't kid yourself 510's were plentiful 10 years ago on the west coast and 2 door sedans were always in short supply. A rust free 2dr 510 is now like hen's teeth. Closest thing you can get to a full sized motorized skate board. If the wiring is wrong...ya got a running "seat of the pants car" for a grand that will get over 20 mpg and keep up with about everything on the street. IMO the modofied 510 will always have better re-sale value than a hybrid Z which means you will get your money out of a 510

reverse the louver openings which will give the panel a smoother appearance. with wider louvers in two or three rows with 2 or 3 louvers

Hi Tom..................I picked up some small oval ones at Harbour Freight that I will try to incorporate with a modified oval opening. The oval ones match the grille opening. I do not think that any lamp housing will actually fit. John Washington had some kind of 2 part lamp (?) that would work.

Hang in there................you now have more time with your dad

congrat(s)

The front suspension is not weak but hard to properly adjust..........check this out in Hybrid Z classifieds. http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=1654&sort=1&cat=15&page=1

I have 5 inch sleeves and proprely placed 4 ichers should work just as well. I have had good luck buying springs off eBay (about 5 sets at less than 1/2 price) but a PITA wading thru the "BUY IT NOW crap" ............. Search hints: use coil over (s) or coilover (s), select most inexpensive first, then search in Carerra, Qa1, hypercoil, hyperco, AFCO and anything you can think of...........................Call around and you may find someone to test the weight of the springs for you.