Here comes trouble

Once you have determined that the chain bright links, cam sproket and crankshaft gear are all lined up and piston and valve lifters indicate TDC (Stick your little finger or screw driver in the # 1 spark plug hole to feel piston at top of stroke)......... you can now replace the front cover and install the distribitor/oil pump shaft.... A auto manual should give you a photo of where the shaft male slot should be oreinted at 11:25 AM for proper placement of pump and dizzy. Secure the top of the shaft at the dizzy hole with a pair of needle nose vice grips at 11:25 AM . Look into the pump and align the pump's female slot to engage the shaft's male slot and bolt the oil pump to bottom of cover... At the top of cover, mount dizzy and dizzy rotar should be pointed at dizzy cap's #1 wire

Now if Mr. Goodman can tell us what body it is....I say "Stable Works"... the wheels and tires appear to have been selected ro fill in the wheel wells without proper lowering.

Never saw a T-Top on a 1st generation Z... Does it leak ? This mod will limit your style but the car already has an appealable style with wheels and T-Top IMHO....... Actually engine has impressive list if could run good...... Have you done an "Hybrid Z" extensive rust inspection. This car looks to have been pampered in the NorthWest and may have little rust if not located near the Ocean....$900 and a ZX parts car ...go for it.................Concentrate on getting it running with L 6 first. Which I believe is the first step and most important step

Years ago, I figured the best way to approach an auto repair shop was bent over pants down walking backwards prepared for some parts changing repairs or change parts until it runs right. I began buying two of the same kind of car. Almost never was the same part wore out on both cars. I could change parts from the running car to the non running car until I found the problem Learned to be a halfassed mechanic that way in the drive way with both hoods open on Saturday and Sunday. Now out of habit, I will just raise the hood on two cars if I am only working on one. (LOL) Actually over the years I found a good electrical auto repair shop and even a mechanical shop but still just about endangers me to take a car in for repair because they call the police when I get out bent over walking backwards with my pants down. KY or vaseline ?

George.... are you and Mr. Newman still on speaking terms ? Pull the distrinitor, remove oi pump...let oil pump/distribitor drop out . remove all bolts that connect oil pan to front cover and loosen additional bolts from oil pan without removing them Radiator has to be removed.. ........................the front cover has some "hidden" bolts going from water pump thru front cover to engine block .. Some times the front cover needs a little persuasion with mallet and wood block... but if resists comomg off..... check for a "hidden" bolt

Recieved the 2.170 " sleeves today. These sleeves are 5 inches in length (shrunk 1 1/2 inch from A1 Catalog page to my door) Here is a photo of the sleeves with used acme thread nuts and a lower spring perch courtesy of a flat steel washer with a 3 inch O.D. and a 2 1/8 inch ID enlarged 1/32" to 2 5/32".. The sleeves are very tight fit on the 280 Z strut tube. I used a scotch brite disc attached to an air grinder to polish the strut tube for allowance of the sleeve fit. Apparenrly when the threads for the gland nut were machined, the outside diameter of the strut tube was work enlarged slightly.............http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/8223&.dnm=59d6.jpg&.src=ph

According to legend and the folks that worked on it, the first big block Ford Shelby Cobra was called "the turd" A 390 CI engine by the way that Shelby wheedled out of FOMOCO

Silver Z prior to sex change and estrogen therapy.. Fairlady still has a hairy chest despite the massive dosage of estrogen http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=7542.jpg&.src=ph

Silver Zee after sex change operation http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Tomahawk Zee AKA: Cobra http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=2e76.jpg&.src=ph

Black Pearl and Blue Streak (The EPA requires that I provide a caution warning to viewers. "Proceed at your own risk" http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=5fca.jpg&.src=ph

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Z tard it was not that you were not thinkinglllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllthose resin fumes were tarding you in what VR John Washington refers to as brain damage. llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllcheap thrills then onset of migraine

My money was not on the DAP as a useful product for fiberglass work since I inexpensively used a lot for house painting as "houseomotive" bondo..I should have gave this stuff more credit ....Now, I want to try mixing a little polyester resin with the DAP !!! Exciting project.. as Terry suggested keep the pics coming.......

Chap... check out Eastwood catalog.... they have parts for for do it yourself e. wheels.. looks like a lot of the parts for sale could be fabricated. They even have a louver attachment for their $$$$$$$ bead roller which Harbour Freight has a clone bead roller for $99.00.. Eastwood sells the clone bead roller too (lol) . Got qute a set-up for rolling fender flares too.

Cru....Sectioning the struts in my opinion woud require camber plates for re-adjustment purposes after screwing up the camber..... sectioning struts is a PITA and labor intensive. I have done it on 2 - Z's. and screwed up one strut tube. (expensive mistake if you have no spares as I did) This modification of camber plates can be done without removal of the the rear strut pin (PITA MAJOR) which is required when sectioning struts. A person can add coilover sleeves and weld-in new lower spring perch by un-fastening the strut cartridge from the strut tower These camber plates with 5/8 inch monballs will require a strut cartridge with the OEM 12mm X 1.25 threads.I have and have sourced these nuts. The VW Jetta shorter strut cartridge has bigger Threads and would require a 3/4 " monoball and adapter for the larger thread size. .............................................edit..........Apparently the right sized monoball housings are being sent to me from UB Machine. A CNC plasma cutter operator has been located. The prototype camber plates should be done within 2 weeks. Looks like I have about all the parts sourced.... I may get creative and add on a caster adjustment to the plates by slotting the bottom washer. Looks like about 1/8 " in either direction could be slotted in for caster adjustment. This mod. will require the slotted washer to be welded to the top of strut tower. The strut tower will require slight (u-shaped) cutting and enlargement of the access hole for the strut cartridge nut. The (big) washer can be sourced locally The camber plates could ues another (big) washer on top the strut tower for strength if slotted and welded for caster adjustment ..............As I get the parts I will add pictures

My friend Ocbaar located a fellow with a CNC plasma cutter who will set up the program for the camber plate cut for $15.00 and cut the plates for $6.00 a piece and supply his own steel. UB Machine has the 5/8 " monoball housing for $12.50 a piece (#48-1010). I am waiting for them before the plasma cutting begins. The housing will most likely have to be machined for an outside diameter step (down) before attaching and spot welding to the camber plate..................................................UB Machine does a lot of racing parts manufacturing http://www.ubmachine.com/

Charlie... you are becoming a wiring wizard of late

zx rear diff is most likely a R 200 with a 3.7 to one.good re-sale value. 2+2 is probably R180 with 3.54 to one ratio. ...Pull the rear disc brakes..Brake master cylinder may be bigger (15/16).ZX Engine block is the most developed L6 and may have flat top pistons Actually the entire car is a gold mine of parts.. A 1983-84 automatic tranny out of a Maxima is a bolt up overdrive unit for the L 6 Z engine. Radiator may be larger. I am looking for a zx to strip for my project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Gee whiz... certain tribes of Plains Indians had this ritual commonly called the "sun dance" and did things similar to Jesus' ordeal for fun. Had a friend who was always in trouble at his government work for his honesty... he finally took my advice and became the worst employee imaginable and never was in trouble again. His honesty and hard work was a threat to the others not to mention his female supervisor he engaged in intercourse in the bathroom before she was promoted.I never personally witnessed the activity but I definitely heard it going on. She was 20 years his senior

Gee whiz! got busy looking at the other mods forgot to pay attention to wiring. Very interested in the rear lower control arm ""... I got the parts for the front adjustable tension rods from Race Basics and the parts for the adjustable front control arm are on their way from UB Machine. and the camber plate monoball housing arrived in 3/4 rather in 5/8's

George..................I have changed some Datsun aluminum heads and my first head change was an aborted "wedge affair". As a matter of practice from then on, I remove the radiator, timing chain cover, oil pump, distributor and the front bolts on the oil pan. That way... I am certain that the dowel in the crankshaft points up indicationg TDC. The bright links are in correct position to the timing chain notches, the oil pump and distribitor shaft is properly installed and the timing chain tensioner and spring did not get loose from it's mount. I am not saying the wedge method is wrong but in a lot of hands just about everything can go wrong requiring the entire front timing chain cover to be removed anyway.I have repaired and changed a lot of heads where the timing was off a tooth with the distribitor retarded or advanced to compensate with the carb idle screw out of adjustment to mask the timing problem.. With the timing chain cover removed , you have a complete visual and can detect any mistakes in timing and proper placement of all the parts. It ain't easy and a head gasket change is quite complicated for a novice and why shops charge over$400.00 for this job. Takes me about 2 days and I would rather take a good beating than change a head gasket.The 2 members posting can get you thru it with or without the wedge.. Learn to use a wrench in one hand and a manual in the other hand without getting the pages greasey

very interesting.........if it does not work out ...you can always paint the cardboard silver....waiting to see the finished product

You need 3 hoods. One for every day use, one for Sunday go to drag meeting and one for the 4th of July. I wear a felt hat in winter and a similar straw one for summer for my every day use, an american pie kepi for special use and a vintage straw picnic hat on the 4th of July.

If you are down river..it could be floated but the location is great for a drive thru restraunt or bed and breakfast with a private Z junkyard less than a 1/4 mile away.