zeiss150

Anyone know of a good dynojet place that will do tuning runs in my neck of the woods (covina california, by the 210 and 57 freeways) Anyone?

Oinojo! Awesome! I've been waiting for someone to dyno a N/A SU'd L28 for about 3 years now! I have a similar engine, so I've always wondered what kind of HP I would be looking at. What is your CR? Is it a stock long block, F54 with P79 head? How many miles are on the engine if its not a rebuild? How much was your dyno time and how many passes did you get? I live in Cali so I've been thinking about dynoing my Z. Oceanside might be a little far for me to go though. I am hopeing with the mods on my fresh 9.2:1 CR F54,N42head with header and 460 270 cam, 2.5"exaust, electric dizzy and SU's I might get 160 to the rear wheels.

Damn ... If only I could read whatever language that was in!

I think the square port works on the round it just doesn't flow as well because its not matched. MSA sells them for about $150 I think smog or no smoge whatever you need. found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Z-240-260-280-headers-square-port_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQitemZ8068227421QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Im sure someone will correct me if you can't use the square with the round, but I know the bolt pattern is the same.

Hey Ben. I believe in the "how to rebuild your datsun nissan sohc engine" book it has a section in the front detailing how to determine whether or not your engine needs to be rebuilt. For a blown head gasket you want to check cylinder pressure (you can get a gague at the parts store for about $20) if you have two cylinders right next to eachother that have low pressure then you probably have a blown head gasket (example... cylinders 4 and 5 have a psi of 45 and 55 but the rest of the cylinders have a psi of 160). check each of the 6 cylinders for equil pressure they should all be within 10psi of eachother I believe that if you get a minimum of 150psi accros the cylinders then the bottom end is just fine and doesn't nessarily need a rebuild. Another easy check for a head gasket leak is green coolant in your oil. Drain the oil in to a pan and let it set for about a half hour if you have green water bubbles floating on the top of your oil then you probably have a blown head gasket. Other indications for an engine rebuild are: how many miles does the engine have on it? If it has 150 thou + you might consider a rebuild. Also is it an automatic transmission or is it manual? if its an auto, the engine might be in better shape because its harder for the driver to abuse the engine. Lastly and most importantly ... the main reason that I recomend an engine rebuild instead of a swap is because of what you want to do with the car. In your first post you talked about putting in a V8, this would imply that you are looking to make some pretty substaintial horse power. If you swap an old engine in you might have problems with that engine a few thousand miles down the road. also any mods that you do on it to increase HP would not be as effective as they would be with a fresh rebuild. Keep in mind that the most RWHP (Rear Wheel Horse Power) that I have ever heard of comming out of a "slightly modified" L28 is about 180. With the heaver ZX body thats not going to get you a 12 sec 1/4 mile car... more like a 15sec at best. That is not to say that A 200 + RWHP N/A L28 cannot be built, but it is to say with "bolt on mods" it is unlikely to be built. If you wan't real HP out of an L28 then Turbo is your only option. There are two kinds of Z owners ... the first kind loves the Z car and enjoys the drive but when it comes to the mechanics of the car they would rather spend the money and have it fixed by a shop than get there hands dirty. There is nothing wrong with this kind of Z owner! The second kind of Z owner is the kind like myself and many, many others on this site, we dream about our Z's, we can't wait for the weekend so we can install the new part that is going to give us 2.5 more RWHP. We don't mind the Exaust smell, we visit Z forums online 2 or 3 times a day to help others with there Z's. Rebuilding an engine is not only a challenge but its FUN! For us the Z isn't just a car its a hobbie. What kind of Z owner are you? As to whether or not you have the skills to rebuild your L28, well... 3 years ago I barely knew how to change the oil on my car let alone rebuild an engine. I did what you did, I bought the books, did my research, studied, read, studied some more, made a bunch of mistakes, and I have learned how to do just about everything on my own. I am no super genius (as you can tell my my numorus spelling errors) but I have a passion for my Z. If you have a basic understanding of tools, you like a challange, and you don't give up easy, you can rebuild your engine! If you have ever built a model (car, airplane, ship, whatever) in your life, you can rebuild your engine. If you can hook up aduio and video equipment then you can rebuild your engine. Should you rebuild your engine... well, thats up to you. What kind of a Z owner are you? Good luck we are always here to help with whatever you decide. Matt- P.S. A turbo swap is more complicated but if your gonna take it all apart you might as well put it back together the way you REALY want it!

isn't barsleak just a temporary fix? I wouldn't put that $hit in my new engine. I would pull the tranny pull the clutch flywheel assembly and try to put the plug in with the engine still in the car. But it you have a cherry picker it would probably be faster to pull the engine. Thoes engines com out in about a half an hour. good luck

The distributor bushings are probably worn out. Check the inside of the distributor cap to see if the electrod points are are worn. The rotor might be making contact with the electrods in the cap (thats what happend to me) So I rebuilt the hole thing. There is an awesome website some where out in cyberspace that has step by step pictures how to rebuild it. I found this site http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distribase.html the other web site is at atlanctic Z clubs web site ... its not working at the time that im writing this. check out this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109218&highlight=distributor+rebuild Good luck let us know how it goes.

since you are puting it in to a 240 you can loose any smog stuff. Get yourself a NON EGR N-42 intake manifold, with some bigger injectors (420cc supra non turbo) custom fuel rail. ditch the stock ECU and get a stand alone system (megasquirt) get rid of that injector fan (its that turbo looking thing on the dirver side of the block) loose the Jpipe and put in an intercooler and cold air induction. Use a bigger down pipe off the turbo and go with a 2.5 inch or 3 inch exaust. loose the cat and get a turbo muffler. Loose the power stearing pump and AC. Get a 2 row pully. and you seem to be missing the distributor, You'll need that, get the one with the CAS built into it. Get a 60mm throttel body off a 240sx port the intake manifold to match it and then it just bolts on. then your gonna need a BOV and a boost controller. Just get rid of all of that smog grap and plug up all the holes on the manifold and you should be ok. I'm sure that I missed a million things but thats all I can think of off the top of my head. The mods I mentioned are if you want 300 RWHP. If you stay stock... it ain't gonna happen. Just my 2 cents:burnout:

no ask kicking NeedforZ:redface: nothing but love for the z community but... you could have just typed $500 (for example) instead of search. but no worries.

Well if your just gonna drop it in without rebuilding it I would go over the basics. compression, spark and fuel. But, if you're gonna rebuild it then it doesn't really matter what's wrong with it as long as it has all of its parts. If its an 83 then its gonna have a P90a head wich has hydrolic lifters. Thoes can be a bit of a problem if they are broken, well not so much broken but not working right. There are way's to repair the lifters but you cant buy new parts for them. make sure the distributor is there... its a special dizzy with crank angle sensor... you'll need it... get the computer, even if your gonna replace it with an after market computer. If you want A/C well grab that stuff too. don't for get the coil, and if its a manual trans grab that too. If its an auto trans that will probably be better for the state of the engine. there should be an oil cooler. I think thats it. As far as the turbo check if there is any oil running down the down pipe. You wont really know it the trubo need rebuilding untill you take it off and check for "cokeing" (burnt oil in the oil lines ) and also you need to check end play in the turbine. I hope that answered your questions. Oh and I only mentioned the Carbs because you can only get over 200 horse power with them on a N/A engine ... but you're right ... they didn't make a carb'ed turbo. Good luck.

hey How much are the Arazona pistons? and do they come in 20,40,60 thousandths over bore. Also do they come with rings? Does the better rod/ stroke raito give you a higher redline or does it just alow you to rev faster?

A N/A engine with give you about 180 RWHP and thats with a header and exaust and cam and electronic ignition and SU carbs and a bunch of other stuff. If you want over 200 RWHP on a N/A engine then you will need some serious head, intake, exaust and a super high compression ratio. Not cheep not easy. for anything over 200 WHP turbo is the way to go. With only a few inexpensive (reletively) mods you can get up to 300 WHP I think if you just raise the stock boost from 7 to 12 psi you can get a turbo to 220whp with out any mods. How do I know ... cause I have a N/A L28 with good mods on it and it only get 180 (guessing) WHP. anyone that I've ever seen post over that on a N/A is running tripples (carborators) and has had a bunch of head and intake work. 180 RWHP sure... 300RWHP ....no way not on a N/A.

I have the MSA header and I am still using my stock heat shield. It bolts to the intake manifold. I have the E88 intake manifold, it has 2 screws that hold the stock heat sheild on. I thought they all worked that way unless it was fuel injection. did you switch from FI to carbs? and even if you did the intake should have the mounting holes. If you lost the heat shield then maybe a 16 gauge sheet of aluminum with some mounting points for the springs on it. Or call up Z therapy and see if they have one. or scan ebay (I just did they dont have any right now ... just wait)

thanks for the info guys!

Hey guys what does the DE stand for in RB26DET and what does the RB stand for I'm just wondering cause it's on all the new nissan engines i.e. vg30de/VQ35de At least I know what the T stands for. timeing right? JUST KIDDING! turbo.

any time ... any question ... thats why I post here. I would rather answer new peoples question than have them use the search. Most of the Z people here want to help out, so, keep the faith!

OOOOOh my bad! I thought you were keeping the 240 body and tranplanting the Z32 engine. thanks for clearing that up. wow you sold the 240 and got the 300zx really fast... the guys here were still fighting over weather or not you should do it and you didn't even have the car any more... AWESOME! Good luck with your Z32.

that was SICK! Hey did anyone go to the West Coast Nationals? I missed it I had to work:(.

super funny. Hoov100 ditch'd this idea about 20 posts ago. good times Z people ... nothin like ego's to keep a post going . Thats pretty cool that you're going with the Z31(vg30?) motor are you gonna turbo that? And how much fabrication is needed to put that into your 240? Keep us posted!

I had that same problem I think the ll:25 is B.S. I'm running 15 degrees right now and it's a fun N/A Z to drive.

with flat top pistons 20thousands over bore and a 1mm head gasket with a P79 head that will give you a nice compression raito of 8.8:1. Put on a header and 2.5in. exaust. Add a 60mm throttle body use a little better ignition, larger fuel injectors and a better engine computer and you'll have real nice 170 t0 180 rear wheel horse power engine. As far as the cost... short block rebuild ... 20thou over bore new pistons and rings $300 gasket and seal kit $100 valve stem seals/ clean up your head $100 60mm throttle body $35 at the junk yard (you get one from a 240SX) megasquirt $300 header and exaust $200 larger injectors $75 now you could go the less expensive rout and and that would be new rings and bearings $150 gasket set $50 60mm tb $35 or just check the compression in each cylinder (150 psi I think) as long as there all with in a few psi of eachother just leave the short block alone. spend your money on the exaust and throttle body and cold air induction and a better ignition. It just depend on how much money you have to spend. There are about a million different ways to build a Z engine. Good luck let me know if you have any other questions P.S. the prices are just my best guess on how much I paid a few years ago.

If you don't have much mechanical experiance the you should just do a rebuild. A swap requires a lot of fabrication. Unless you know how to weld... An L28 is a pretty easy engine to rebuild. there is a book called "how to rebuild your nissan OHC engine" and its great. It has step by step pictures and instructions, its hard to mess it up. before you start read, read, read, ask questions and go slow and you will make a kick a$$ L28. Good luck. P.S. there is a lot of help on this site that can get you some more horse power for pretty cheap.

can't you by "performance springs" from MSA that you put in a standard oil pump that increase the pressure? I remember reading a thread about a guy that put the springs in and he was getting 90 psi at hot idel so he put back one of the standard springs and left one of the heavyer springs and presto change'o he had perfect oil pressure. Isn't the standard oil pump made out of aluminum? and wouldn't that be better for heat than a cast iron one?

the turbo itself has no computerized parts so if you're just adding the turbo then no... and even if you go with fuel injection (which I would Highly recomend!) the don't worry about the crappy turbo harnes ... just add the wireing for the new engine managment. If you read the book by Corky Bell, "Maximum boost" he has a section talking about carborated turbo engines and the problems that you can have with them. He also say's that he wouldn't recomend that set up. If you live in a cold area with a carborated turbo engine... good luck in getting it started. the kind of engine managment needed to get the most out of a turbo setup without blowing up the engine, NEEDS fuel injection with after market engine managment i.e. megasquirt, haltech. If you're gonna build a 3.2L turbo I would do a lot of research. Good Luck P.S. Corky's book has a picture of a tripple makuni blow through turbo nissian L28. Seems like the worst kind of turbo set up to me ... that just my uneducated 2 cents.