GLENN280ZX

Rear stub axles will inter-change., but you must use the proper c-v adpt. and use the 280zx c-v type axles. Up front you can use the 300 hubs directly on the 280 spindle. Be aware that after this you will have your hands full with the rotors and a proper caliper set-up.

Have you taken a look at the small sceen located in your feul pump? It's on the outlet side of the pump behind the hose barb adaptor. This happened to me and had the same symtom as you are discribing, cause's a lean condition. Found my problem after I fuel up and noticed that the stations pump was operating very slow (i got the bottom of their tank).It took me about a week to find it. Also did a feul pressure check while riding down the road when misfire was occurring, noticed drop to about 10pounds.

That will work for me in saving shipping..my territory extends to Homestead. Gonna be traveling to Orlando next week, may drop by and take a look at the proto-types if there are any. I'm looking to have power windows and the cool little speaker cove. Do you happen to know the fella with the z in J'ville with the panterea hatch? Like to get a look at that. Give me a call if the the stop by is good with ya..770-289-8388. Glenn

That's cool,know what it's like to help the family.Where in Fla. are ya? My job get's me all over Fla. CSX RR

Sign me up for a set. I'll pay in full if I get mine right now,might be a good idea to get a general idea for shipping cost's...I remember John C having to find shipping box's and a carrier to deliver his hoods this past spring.And can you be paid by PAY-PAL?

Just because the dist., is spinning does not meen that the oil pump is...I know I killed a crank and rod on a fresh eng. by not having the oil pump drive shaft properly in the oil pump. There is enough clearence in the dist., drive shaft and oil pump for this to happen. And just to inject, you will have oil pressure even if the head gasket was installed wrong side up. I have a long flat blade screw diver minus the handle that I use to prime my engines with, by chucking it in a drill. You do this by bolting up the O.P. with out the drive shaft. Makes a mess when you do install the shaft..but cheap ins. And after what you have done I think would be a step that I would do. Be sure to check your flats when you go to install every thing or your timing will give you fits when you do get oil pres., and you can't get the timing set properly. Hope this helps.

On the front buy the 0-offset hubs from Ross, he has to machine a small amount from the seal area and this gives you the proper clearence that you need.Then you must buy a set of cobra rotors, these are 13" and this is what Ross's hubs are machined for.The last kicker for the front is you decide what calipers you are going to use and make brackets,, you may be able to use AZ for this. Give Steve a call, he is real good about talking to ya about his products and their apps. At the rear you need 84-87 turbo axles and the out-side bearing, because the 300 axle has more meat in this area than the 280.and make sure that get and use the bearing spacer. This is the 1/4" spacer that is found at the inside bearing. The second item is the c-v axle companion flange, there are 3 different ones. The one you want is 1/4" shorter than the other 2 and make sure that you get the 300's axle nuts.For the half shafts you are going to use the the 280zx turbos, or the 82-83 c-v type, they are the same and when the proper companion flange is used this will be a total bolt in except for the caliper brackets. I don't know the year of the 300,for the flange because when I went to the Z BARN to gather parts for this,Roger turned me loose in the yard and all these rear end ass. were all on the ground. I have opp. to use the cobra rotors in the back also, so again you have to make caliper brackets here to, don't know of any one who has done this but AZ makes a 4-lug kit for the rear, but I don't think the caliper brackets will work. I used wilwood calipers front and rear and bought a hyd. park brake from AZ. and still used the stock porp. valve. Beware if you already have the wheels you plan on using,not that the rear spacing changes, but because the rotor is so shallow, the caliper may hit the inside of the wheel, not the outer rim but the stud area.I bought BOYD C. wheels, and had to fill out a work order in detail about what I had. I basically ordered a wheel for a late model cobra,I don't use fender flairs and the wheels are just inside the fender lips. This operation took me about 3 weekends to do.And with the exception of making the caliper brackets, it was really straight forward.Hope this helps.Oh my car is an '80 model

Opps, just reread the parts list sorry.

What year are you wokng on? On my '80 I have 17x10 Boyd's the rear with 6.5rear spaceing.

No, I opted for the hyd., park/ or lock that AZ offers. It only cost $30.00.I did fool around with the hand brk. when I was using the 300 rear calipers.

I have Ross's 0-offset hubs on the front of my car, they are direct bolt on. I am using Power slot 13" rotors and wilwood cals. In the back I'm using 300 stub axles and bearings and cv adpt. flanges, 280zx cv shafts, Power slot 13" rotors and wilwoods also. If you go past 11.5" rotors you must use 16" wheels or bigger to clear calipers. Hope this helps. You can do a little junk-yard'n and use a lot of stock parts to achieve the five lug.

No mouse-trap springs....hyd. for sure

Yeah Bleech, those wheels do look good. Hey david I have swapped all my brakes to 13" rotors and using MM hubs up front and still using the 300 axles out back, and using wilwood calipers all the way around.Let me know if your interested in my z31 stuff.

I have an AUTOMETER Ultra-light 2 5/8 in my clock hole with 6ft. of tubing and your right it is just enough.

Thanks, I'll check them out. That may be where I saw them at, it's been awhile sience I've looked at their cat.

Hey guy,s I once apoun a time I came across someone who had a listing for 'STEEL' fender flares for the 79-83 280zx's. Any of you have any sources?? I'd rather get steel than fiberglass, I know that JCR and Motrosports have glass. Thanks, GLENN

Use the machine shop for this!!

To add to this, if you are swapping to a rack set-up either manual or power you must use that x-member also, and there is a different x-member for:power-rack, man. rack and rec.ball. Yes there is a automatic trans assembly grease, made by valoline.

turbo bigger;will need air boot, harness connector different;need to change two wires and add turbo harness connector to car's harness. Look up 'BLUES' tech tips, he shows ya what you need to do w/pics.

I need someone in ONT., to help me get a 280zx na or turbo hood to 'SHOW CAR BODY PARTS' there. The hood does not net to be show quality or need scoops.They seem to have lost their mold and can make one from a stock steel hood.I will glady pay for the hoo, shipping(from ONT address) to show cars and for the asisstance in helping me. Thanks, Glenn

Hey, I just did the autometer swap today. I took my short cable to the locale speedo-repair shop told them I needed a 5/8 hook-up. And in 15min. it was ready to go for $5.00. He cut the orignal collar about 1/2" and swedged the new on. Simple and I thought kinda trick.

If you decide to go 1.75, hit me up here or at GLENN280ZX@HOTMAIL.COM. I have a stahl 1.75 (#28 check the stahl site). A fella named BOB MAGGIO had it on a 3.0. It's big and it's bad. But it can only be used in a 240-280Z not a ZX.

I have three p90's and lot's of stock turbo stuff. How much you wanna buy??

Hey David, Moser is located in In, the #1-260-726-6689.You can get all the info from that #.If you decide to go the 300 axle route hit me up here and I can work you up a package minus the cv-axles.

Hey David,what year zx are you working on? The above tech. works, but you should really use the drill press to drill,when you go to tap for studs the tap will follow a bad hole the same as a straight hole, this is how I done my first set of 280zx axles.Moser Engineering will drill, tap, and sell you 1/2" studs for $90.00.If you are working on a 82-83, than you can use the 300 rear set-up and that is 99% bolt in. not near as much work as my earlier thread on my '80.