fentin_fury

I agree with the Venom comment. New is a term they use lightly.

thanks for the input. I will be doing most of the mods - still debating on the external oil return. I won't be doing this until the end of the season though. I will update all as I progress. Q

if your theory is correct - there should be some signs of wear - if not break out the magic marker and mark up where you think the binding may be occuring and see if it wears off. I had a loud noise during hard acceleration/deceleration/turning and found that the tranny was just moving around to much and bottoming on the tranny mount - stiffened up the rubber mount and the noise went away. Although i now have another noise - and not a good one. My R200 gave up - bearings went away - pinion I believe. Rick S hooked me up with a R200 4:11 and Whiteheads is rebuilding that right now. Should be back up and running next week - if the clutch pack survived. Since it is on the hoist I will try to measure the play I have in the drive shaft and let you know. Good luck. Quentin

i hope things work out for you! q

sounds like you and I are related! Same issue just backed off before I through a bearing. I am doing quite a bit of investigation... see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122330 Q

I'll get a few - from where ever I get them. NP

from my research ALL RBs are subject to the same problem. Oil restrictor sizes and number are a function of oil pump, use, and hydraulic vs. solid valve pots. q

that is an interesting test - 5 seconds. Does anyone know the additional volume/pressure of the N1 pump vs. stock? Q to quote Matt "THE VOLUME OF THE STOCK/NISMO/N1 PUMP IS FINE FOR ALL BUT SUPER DRAG MOTORS. 90% of the RB26's I have built are 9,000rpm engines and have zero oil pressure drop at the gauge due to not enough pump volume using these pumps. The HKS and JUN pumps are for serious power motors turning serious rpm's. Oil flow is what keeps the bearings cool. High power creates lots of pressure on the oil/bearing, creating lots of heat which will kill the bearings. In this type of motor, you combat this by opening the oil clearances, which in turn flows more oil over the bearings, keeping them cool. This requires......drumroll please.........a higher volume pump. If you don't have a higher volume pump, oil pressure will drop in the upper R's and the bearings will die a horrible death."

I will upgrade the oil pump and was looking at the return yesterday. Have to figure out some plumbing. Will invest in a real oil pressure gauge as well keep all advised q

found them.....

I spent yesterday at Mosport and spent some time lapping the RBZ I noticed on the back stretch that during sustained high RPMs my oil pressure fades away! I do not starve for oil in tight turns etc but during high RPM sustained runs my pressure falls off. For the experienced crowd here - my questions are: Do we think this is oil pooling in the head? Will oil restrictors help? I have a large 7litre pan, well baffled, deep, oil cooler etc. I am running a stock oil pump. I read the australian thread "On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can; 1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard) 2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc. 3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump 4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block 5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil " I would have thought my extensive oil pan work and large capacity would have addressed this issue. I suspect the oil pump not liking sustained high rpms - anyone concur? Q S30 RB26 - BNR34 long block (stock). Upgraded turbos, standalone, etc.

how do I find XS engineering? Might be in need of the oil restrictors. Q

Jerry I am using the Magnaflow - sort of quiet - except under full boost! Rick (Brantford Nissan) heard it running at the swap meet - you can ask him Quentin

big TURBO - sounds great!

color of gear is based on your final drive ratio - based on your tire size and and rearend ratio you can pick the appropriate color to get the best estimate of your speed on the speedo. Per Datsun Garage YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

what type of autometer - mechanical or electrical. both will work with the nissan trans - you can bolt in a 300z mech drive into the rb25/sr20 trannies. Pick your geer color and away you go. I am using the electronic autometer with no problems. Q

Come to the swap meet ONTARIO Z-CAR ANNUAL SWAP MEET Saturday April 21, 2007, 10:00 am @ Whitehead Performance 134 Rivalda Road (at Weston Rd & Sheppard), Toronto

If you mean have I been - yes - it is the orange 72 that has been in the shop for a while q

excellent! Another RB guy in the neighbourhood:icon14: . I'm just getting my new sprtmax rims to fit - I will then be on the road - I'm sure we will cross paths this season. q

I posted some of my numbers a while back - RB26 though... Rough estimates only - but here we go... R32 Rb26 and 5 speed RWD tranny - $1750 R34 long block $5500 Turbo rebuilds $1800 Microtech LT12S, Wide band O2, coil pack driver - $2500 Drive Shaft $400 Motor mounts $250 Gasket set $240 N1 water pump $225 Timing Belt $30 Intercooler and piping $400 Exhaust $650 Injectors $550 fuel pump(s), fuel filter, serge tank, pressure reg, 240Z tank mod - $1000 Cage in car $2500 New guages - tack, speedo & boost $450 New Clutch, flywheel $500 oil cooler and plumbing - $200 oil pan, pickup, oil pan mods coatings - $240 other stuff - lsd, R31 turbo half shafts, adjustable T/C rods, 280Z stub axles (modified for R31T half shafts) CAD$ q

carless, Just an fyi i have a rb26 crank sitting around - bnr32 - measured it and it is within spec. I suspect that this is for your rb30 however. q

Rather than baffle my new tank I used a surge tank - requires two pumps and some additional fittings - but should prove impossible to starve in the corners. Q

well done! . q

The microtech lt12S which I chose works with the CAS and all the other nissan sensors. That was one reason I chose it. Additionally I could keep the coil on plug, the wide band O2, integrated MAP, and the Matrix mode were of interest to me. q

the fuel system is a stock tank with 1/2 outlet and returns added. These provide fuel and return to a surge tank mounted up front that is fed by a high volume fuel pump. The surge tank feeds the high pressure aeromotive pump via an external filter. Both pumps are controlled by the Microtech.