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Posts posted by toolman

  1. P1030548

      frame rail-rear crossmember to firewall


      close up view


    The frame rail extends from rear crossmember to engine firewall.  Checking out the front section of frame rail from firewall

    to core support.   Wire brushing the area for close inspection-looking for signs of corrosion.  if I decide to go all the way, have to

    add additional supports from strut towers to bumpers mounts and one between the bumper mounts.

    • Like 1
  2. P1030540

      corrosion on old frame rails


      replacement frame rails


      using magnets to support frame rail


      aligning rail


      rear frame reinforcement
       I decided to replaced the corroded  frame rails with 2 1/2" X 1" X 1/8" steel tubing.  These rails will run from the firewall to
    the rear frame member.   They will add additional structural strength to the body.   Transmision mounts can easily fabricated
    by attaching  crossmember to them.

       A 3/16" steel plate was welded to the rear frame to provide a strong location for jack stands.





  3. P1030534


    Bottom view of floor after welding and removal or cleco clips and screws.   As far as verdict on using

    structural adhesive is still pending.  It works fine for small metal patches without welding.  However,

    using it on parts that will be welded afterwards, there is some burning and smoke when welding.  So

    although they say you weld after it dries, I think there is contamination of the welding with the smoke.

    I have not had a chance to test the adhesive by prying a glued portion yet.  Will get back on that evaluation.

  4. glue gun

      New method of attaching replacement floor pan to car body-two part structural adhesive.



      After applying adhesive to both sides, the replacement floor pan and body must be held together for 4 hours to cure.


      Cleco clips and metal screws can be used to hold panels together.


    Bottom view of floor pan showing screws and cleco clips


      Using the structural adhesive to repair a small rusted area.
    Tomorrow, the cleco clips and screwscan removed after welding the seams together.  The screw holes will
    patched using the adhesive with a tooth pick and acid brush.





  5. P1030451

    exterior view of firewall and rocker panel


      interior view of firewall


       Put a cardboard on a floor jack under the hole in the floor.
     This is used to create a template for sheet metal replacement floor pan.  The hole was traced with a flet pen.   Notes and measurements were written on the cardboard for reference.  Always add additional sheet metal as you can always cut the extra material off.  Adding material later is more difficult.   I replaced the floor pan with 20 gauge sheet metal( the original was 22 gauge stuff).  The pan consists of
    both straight bends but have curved edges too.
    sharedmedia=gallery:images:35465]  fitting and cutting the pan


      aligning the pan






  6. P1030449

         I used a Sunex Toon #SX278C punch and flange air tooll.    There are various brand air punch and flange on the
    market.  They are all basically the same.  The cut line must be straight as the guide depends on the cut line for straightness.  The resulting flange does provide
    additional strength and leaves a flat surface when finished.


  7.   When I started restoring my 240Z, I checked the Net for new ideas and procedures.  I noticed a large number of restorers were not using Weld Thur Primer when

    when replacing new panels or repairing old ones.   Weld thur primer is must on areas to be welded.   It goes a long way to prevent future corrosion on that area.

    This because the heat from welding eliminates any paint or regular primer that was there previously.   Rust proofing the area helps a little but in most cases can get into those confined areas.  So corrosion can occur in only months after welding.  Check out- 

    So buy Weld Thur Primer (NAPA has it) and spray all sides of any weld( inside and outside) with it.   It will give additional peace of mind.


      welded area before


      welded area primed


  8. Found additional rust in front left side rocket panel.   So I constructed additional bracing for the engine compartment.   The bracing of 1" x 1" steel square tubing connects the firewall with the two strut towers.  The bracing is necessary if corrosion is found in the engine compartment frame rails. 



      rocker panel rust


      firewall bracing


      firewall bracing

    floor panel cutout

      floor pan cutout





  9. Shipping stuff here is a killer!!   Replacement floor set (both sides) without the rail upgrade shipped here by Post was over $400.   I still plan to do only one side floor panel at a time even with the body brace.   You never know if you might need some additional measurements.   Can't get it if you cut up both sides.

    My old transmission mount was removed when I first put Chevy 327 with Turbo 400 about 1974 or so.   I do plan to connect the front frame rails to the rear

    ones.   I will beef up the front side of the rear frame rails as I was thinking about putting a whole independent suspension and narrow it.   But for now, I'll

    leave the R200 differential in.  Also. I plan to upgrade the front frame rails for the LS3 motor.


    floor panel cutout 2

    floor panel cutout

  10. Orginially I was thought I could get away with repairing the frame rails.  But after cutting open the frame rails, corrosion made them unrepairable.   So rail replacement was  necessary.    After checking out the replacement floor pans and frame rails available, I decided to construct my own.   Normally one can get away without bracing the body to do the replacement.  But I

    found some corrosion on the front of driver side rocket panel.   Could not determine how strong the rockers were without cutting them open.  I constructed body bracing inside the car just above the floor pan.   The bracing was mounted to the two lower door hinges mounts.  The outer seat belt mounts were used for the other side of the body brace.  1" square steel tubing was used in a crossing pattern to provide support for the floor pan.  I want to make it bolted in instead of just welding it .Construction took about

    two days with all the fitting that necessary.


      floor panel corossion


       pics of removed rusted areas


       lower door hinge mount


        top view of the body bracing above the floor pan


        close up view of door hinge mount


       picture of repaired crack in rear transmission tunnel


       frame rail rust









  11. P1030385



    I forgot to mention that for safety reasons- a pair of rubber wheel chocks are placed under the curved wooden section( on each side) of the rotisserie.  Never hurts to be safe.


  12. Not to worry, I used to be a bodyman  before and am familiar with splicing vehicles.   As to the question about how much to tear down the car,  it depends

    what you are trying to fix.   The lighter that you can make the vehicle, the easier it will be rotate over.  Also keep the center of gravity low as possible makes

    rotating easier too.

  13.    In planning to do a restoration of my 240z, I knew that I would need a rotisserie to repair the floor panels properly.   Most

    automotive rotisseries run about $2000 not including shipping.   A used one would run about half that amount.   For me, the problem was most rotisseries are large and take up a lot of space.  As I have only a two car garage, this type of rotisserie was

    not an viable option.    After searching the Internet,  the idea of a tilt rotisserie was found.   The best version for me was a wooden tilt rotisserie.   This style is very compact and can easily disassembled after used. Second the cost is very low.  I spent

    less than $100 for lumber and hardware(bolts, nuts,screws and nuts).  With the vehicle on its side, the floor panel, frame rail, and rocker panel repair is readily accessible.  Construction time was roughly 3 to 4 days.



       head on view of rotisserie in sitting position


        rotisserie in tilted position





        front mounting bracket



        rear mounting bracket



  14. [sharedmedia=videos:videos:301]

     Another video of the results of using dry ice to remove undercoating.  Anybody has a good method of removing the paint on

    the interior of the car?   I was planning to using the 4 1/2 grinder with a wire wheel to do the exposed areas.   The confinded

    area would be sandblasted outdoors.


  15. Dry Ice for underseal removal

       Removing undercoating is usually one of most labor intense jobs when restoring a vehicle.   So when I heard about using
    dry ice to remove undercoating, I decided to try it.   Dry Ice is usually found at industrial welding stores.  The price runs from
    $2.00 to $3.00 per pound.   When using dry ice,  gloves and safety glasses worn to prevent frostbite.   First, I tried using dry
    ice right from the package and just laid the block on the undercoating.  The undercoating got to 15 degrees but didn't really
    remove large chunks of undercoating.   So I tried the next method- put the dry ice in a 5 gallon plastic bucket and smash it till
    it resembles snow.   Then I poured alcohol-92% (bought from CVS) into the bucket and mixed it till it was mud like. I checked
    the temperature and it was minus 15 degrees.  I packed the mixture on to the undercoating( packing snow).  After couple of
    minutes, undercoating made a cracking sound.  The undercoating was so frozen, it cracked.  Now all you have to do is to hit the
    undercoating with a hammer.   The undercoating came off in small to large chucks.  Inspecting the area shoes that there was
    hardly any undercoating remaining( came off very cleanly).   I worked a small area 12" x12" at a time to get the most of the dry
    ice-kept moving the ice around slowly.  I used about 15 pounds of dry ice and two bottle of alcohol to do the interior floor of
    the car.  Haven't tried this procedure on the undercoating on the bottom of the car yet.  Building the rotisserie now.


  16.   Overall the body is not too bad and repairable.   On the right side rocker panel might have be replaced on further inspection.  I might even cut the firewall and move it back 4" to 5" for better weight distribution.  Also might install square tubing into the frame rails and extend the rails to the rear cross member.   Checking out Hoke and other mount guys.  I wanted to try out a new method of repairing my cracked dashboard but it was too far gone,  Anybody make replacements?



  17. P1030287

      hatch hinge-no rust


      right lower hatch rust but repairable


      left lower hatch-rust but repairable


      right side floor board and sub frame-rust but repairable


      hatch hinges-no rust


      right lower inner ender-rust but repairable


      right side seat-repairable but might repace







  18. More pics


       Made part shelve to store the parts during the build as I have only a two car garage.  The shelve is made of 3/4"
    plywood 48" X 43" supported by 2" X 4"  boards anchor bolted to cement wall.  Top shelve will hold hood, fenders, doors, hatch, and etc.  Below the shelve
    the front and rear suspension parts will go.
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