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Domzs

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Everything posted by Domzs

  1. Totally agree . I did a turbo by-pass on my 84 , bought it with a bad turbo and the engine was extremely dirty . Figured I by-pass turbo ( as mentioned method ) and drive it for awhile before installing a new turbo . With low compression ratio and some restriction on intake and exhaust , it had performance of a 3 cylinders , at best .
  2. I don't remember JCI (JTR) offering those headers . From the picture , I don't think the driver side will clear the steering shaft . I could be wrong .
  3. I love pictures . I took a lot of pictures of my S30 build . Unfortunately , I didn't with my S130 build ( it took only 3 weekends to get it on the road ) . So take pictures of the area that you are working on , if you need dimensions , use measure tape(s) when taking pictures . You can look at the pictures on your down time to make your plan . Sometimes it's easier to see or figure out problems when you look at them on your computer screen . Keep at it .
  4. OE wiring shows : C1 connector ( no sure what color ) , pin 19 = ORG = 12v when key on/start , pin 20 and 57 = ORG = 12v all time .
  5. If I know what yr GTO , I can look it up for you . Type of transmission .
  6. IAT sensor won't keep the engine from running . Check to see what's missing , like spark and fuel . VAT removed ?
  7. Pump your brake pedal a few times . If pedal feels firm after pumping then you have air in the system . Compare old cylinder to the new to see if they are the same . Mainly , where the push rod goes in , make sure depths are the same . Good luck .
  8. It's hard to say if it's good or not with that picture . You need to check both sides of the clutch disc . Look at the material thickness against the rivets or wear indicator ( on some ) .
  9. I would replace it and recheck . If your turbo doesn't spin , you will have restrictions on both intake and exhaust . Good luck . Update us on the result .
  10. If the turbo doesn't spin , it's like having a banana up the tailpipe . .
  11. C5 , C6 , Fbody oil pans are the only ones with low clearance , don't know about AM pans . C6 ( LS3 ) offers a little more than Fbody . I wouldn't use C5 pan .
  12. Remember , most 5.3s or truck PCMs are DBW . Then you have to pay a tuner to delete VAT and other stuff , most will charge about $100 . Look at his store before ordering and PM him your needs . I bought 1 from him for my S30 , not painted . For $135 , it's a great deal .
  13. Here you go . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-ls1-swap-computer-pcm-ecm-/251328166692?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a84537b24&vxp=mtr
  14. Get on eBay . You can get one for less than $150 with VAT removed , emission deletion , and more . Bought one for my S130 for $100 , years ago , and one for my S30 for $125 about 2 years ago .
  15. Also try to turn the engine manually to see if it turns freely . If it doesn't , remove all drive belts and try again . Hopefully , just a bad starter , not a locked motor . Make sure the battery and cables are in good condition . Good luck .
  16. LSx in an S130 is a little harder than most people think , due to exhaust manifold/header clearance on the driver side ( steering shaft interference ) or have a custom made header , any block hugger header will fit pass side . Everything else is basically like the S30 swap . Must have modified Fbody oil pan to clear steering rack , not sure about gearbox setup ( if it's doable ) .
  17. Nobody beats 3M when it comes to adhesive . I couldn't find any clear , in small tube .
  18. Thanks Phantom . . I'm going to use the same clear silicone adhesive that i used on my LED tail lights , strong and has very high temp rating . Just takes a little longer to cured .
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