Domzs

Update . Hot glue can not handle Texas heat , one side came off . Time for plan B .

JTR(JCI) or Zstore . Would rec JTR . Zstore kit uses OE motor mounts , which are too weak for V8 .

It depends on your goals , abilities , and pocketbook . Why are you thinking V8 swap , what's wrong with the OE motor ?

You have to add on wires , sensor , and relay . Most fans will come with wiring kits . Make sure to use RELAY , if the kit doesn't have one .

Think so . Designed as a replacement . Not sure if it has the same thickness . Highly rec converting to electric fan , will be much better if you have converted A/C system .

Bought mine in 12/11/12 , paid $168 . Thought I paid less than $150 , price has gone up since . Using OE shroud with AM fan .

LUK is an AM brand . Not sure if GM used it from the factory . If it looks good then use it , why spend extra money if you don't have to . Pictures of the disc would help . And how long has the trans been sitting ? The T/O bearing is part of the slave cylinder .

It's an OK looking car . . JK .

I'm running Champion in my LS1 Z , works great in Texas heat . Love it . As I recalled , I paid less than $150 on eBay . Don't know much about the other brand .

Almost there .

B = battery ( + ) and P = park lamps , maybe .

Pin 11 does not mean you are looking at a connector with more than 11 pins to find pin 11 . Look at the whole picture , they are more than one connector . For example , a 6 pin connector is labeled 1-6 and a 4 pin connector is labeled 7-10 , so pin 10 is located in 4 pin connector . Hope that help . That's just how they did it .

Here's my guess . The mentioned Z has evolved into this . http://autosauer.blogspot.com/2010/03/datsun-240z.html

Not all connectors have numbers and/or letters . If you are looking at a wiring diagram , those numbers/letters is a way to ID connector or connector cavity ( pin terminal ) .

I would use white scotch brite pad and PB blaster ( spray on pad ) to clean up the cam , gently . As for cylinder walls , remove spark plugs and pour some ATF in them , manually turn the crank a few revolutions . Let it soak a little then crank ( w/ starter ) it to remove ATF . Good luck .

I think numbers indicate pin ( wire ) locations in the connector , most connectors have numbers and letters . Letters are a little confusing , like " E " . H = high and E = earth ( ground ) , just a guess .

Check your PCV system . If the I6 is bad then use what you have , V6 . No point of spend money on rebuilding the I6 if you have a good running turbo V6 .

300 HP goal is doable with the I6 turbo . Like i said , too much work to do a VGET swap and for a very little gain . The I6 is easier to work on than a V6 and you don't have to worry about doing timing belt every 60k . I would swap the Z31 computer system and turbo your I6 , that's my opinion . If you are going to do a swap then do a V8 swap , fab labor is about the same . I have an 84 turbo and a 91 NA , I hate working on them , especially the Z32 , the Z32 getting an LS soon . My LS conversion S30 and S130 are easier to work on .

IMO . Too much work for very little gain . Probably better to use your Z31 electronic parts to boost the I6 . I mean , 2.8L vs 3.0L .

Highly rec electric fan(s) . I think truck water pump is the only one is threaded for mechanical fan . It's doable if you have enough clearance for upper radiator hose and fan .

Looking forward to your build . Nice find . . Lots of pics , please .

Needs a fuel pump .

Sounds like a bad fuel pump . Try to tap it .

Use a test light or a voltmeter ( prefer ) to test the yellow wires for voltage , should be no voltage when off .

Reason for asking , because i have seen people by-passed the fan control by using ignition power to activate the fan ( fan runs when key is on ) . By doing that , the engine won't shut off with key off . Fan motor becomes an alternator when key is in off position , feeds enough power to keep the engine running .