Domzs

Very NICE !

From what I can see, the middle picture looks normal. Something is missing or broke off on the other pictures.

Try hazard flasher in place of turn signal flasher, cheaper.

Can you tell me what rotors you are using and where did you get the brackets? Thanks.

Traditional is my vote.

So yours are 5-lug? I'd like to use my 91 300ZX brake system on my 78 but don't want to convert to 5-lug, not ready to buy new wheels. My 91 will get an upgrade kit once I figured out how to use its brakes on my 78.

Yes.

PM sent .

What rotors are you using with Z32 rear calipers? What about E-brake?

I installed RTZ diff mount after I completed my LS swap . It did change my drive shaft angle .

Might have a mismatched intake manifold or gaskets to cylinder heads . Need more information on your engine and manifold combo .

It doesn't matter how your motor/trans sit as long as you have clearance and the driveline is phased ( in correct angle ) . I don't think GM performance oil pan will work . Fbody is the only one has enough ground clearance . A modified C6 oil pan might work too if your motor sits high enough . If you modify Fbody as I suggested ( not like mine ) , you will able to fill it to full capacity . Dipstick will indicate a little higher , just make a new " full " mark , oil will not interference with crankshaft . As for the wiring harness , you will need everything minus emissions . NO : rear O2s ( post cats ) , EVAP , secondary air injection ( if equipped ) , EGR ( if equipped ) . Make sure VAT is removed from PCM and all related emissions are deleted . Good luck .

He didn't mention that he has a stock 5.3 with mild cam and running a base tune.

Not so bad .

Nothing yet , it's not blown , just a little clunking . Going to go with 4-link 8.8 Ford soon ( this is my 83 ) , anticipating a turbo 6.x and will be an auto ( T400 ? ) . My 78 is still holding up , it's an auto trans , and I don't do any full throttle launch from a dead stop .

The 300zx diff. won't last with the T56 if you beat on it too much . I clunked mine ( with over 200k miles ) in a month with very little abuse .

Awesome find ! Good luck on your project .

Most block hugger headers will work on the pass. side ( center exit collector ) . Driver side is the main problem , steering shaft is in the way . 2010 Camaro shorty header might work on driver side ( rear exit collector ) . And you can order a single ( left or right ) header from Summit Racing , you don't have to buy a set then use only one .

Nice ! . Cost ?

You will need to do a little trimming to the mounting tabs to make it fit . After trimming , I used 4 plastic/sheet metal screws to secure the fan . Must use relays . I have GM alternator , so it doesn't affect much . Like I said , never saw high speed . Then again , I'm using 3 cores Champion radiator . It depends on how you wire it up , after 25 mph , the fan is useless ( does not need to be running ) .

Check your local OR parts store . Last time I checked , they were the cheapest and easier to deal with warranty .

Hayden brand , can't remember what size . Got it from OR , lifetime warranty . It has two speeds but the high speed has never came on , plenty of flow at low speed . It keeps my LS1 Z running cool in Texas heat . I would say it's an 17" , haven't found my receipt .

Here's my electric fan in an OE fan shroud with Champion 3 core radiator .

LOL . A lot , I bet .

Wow ! Don't see how some of you can do it . Took me 4 weekends to pull the motor out of the Fbody and the Z , and got it on the road . I would go crazy and discouraged to have a project takes that long . But now I'm doing all my detail work , like paint/body and interior . At least I can enjoy the Z while I'm doing other thing to it .