rztmartini

My long lost twin!

Its not black smoke, it leaves black soot on the ground when I start it cold. The smoke is a white color, at least it looks white when it fills the cabin It develops smoke most on off throttle deccelerattion when at high rpm (>3000). I have tried 2 different heads on there with the same problem: origional was N42, took it off because I was hoping it was valve seals. Put a P90 on from an engine that was not smoking.

I have used the "Restore" stuff, pic included. No change noticed. I guess I will try everything I can find.

As the title states, my temporary motor (L28 with P90) has developed a taste for engine oil rather than fuel. I would guess it is burning it at a rate of about 1 quart oil/3 gallons gas. It is so bad, it leaves a big black soot mark on the ground whenever I start it up and the smoke is killing me when I go off throttle at anything over 3000 rpm. My other engine (3.1) is awaiting pistons so I (hopefully) I won't be driving this motor for very much longer. I know its the rings, not the valve seals, and have tried that oil additive stuff, but I think its too far gone. Does any one have some suggestions to make life bear-able until the other motor is done??? I could care less about the end result of the pistons/block if there is a temporary solution that will end up trashing all moving parts in the long run. My lungs (and other drivers) will thank you greatly! -Smokescreen

Well when there are holes the size of your fist, air is definitely lighter than what used to be there!

No, not there either. Its at turnbull canyon

No, not GMR. It is in So. Cal tho...

Heres mine... dont mind the rust, nature's weight reduction!

Is there one? I have the 5 speed T5 out of a 1982 280ZX turbo. It was on my L28, but I'm wanting to put a 350 in. Is there any way I can use this transmission with a different bellhousing or adapter plate, or would it be less of a hassle to get another 5 speed that came on a chevy 350? Thanks!

i did not "assume" anything. the other pump that i measured was not a H4 pump, just figured it was a long shot that i ended up with 2 of the high flow volume pumps when I thought they were somewhat scarce. jeffp said that his turbo one may have been 40mm, so i am just going off of his word. so for the record, A M/T TURBO PUMP MAY OR MAY NOT BE HIGH FLOW, THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN TELL IS TO MEASURE THE ROTOR/CYLINDER HEIGHT. THE EXTERNAL MARKINGS MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE ANY INDICATION OF ITS FLOW CAPACITY. I AM NOT MAKING ANY GENERALIZING STATEMENTS, JUST REPORTING WHAT I HAVE MEASURED.

how much does the metal that you would be cutting out of the spare tire well weigh?

the axel should snap into place, there is a ring inside the diff that snaps onto the groove on the splines. you gotta kinda slam it in there, but the CV cover should be against the diff housing. in other words, you shouldnt be able to see any shiny parts.

i just measured the smaller one in the picture and it is 35mm. i opened up another pump that i had laying around and it happened to be 40mm. in the picture, the bigger pump was pulled off of a 83 automatic turbo. if someone else measured a manual trans turb pump and it was also 40mm, then it seems that all turbo pumps are the "high flow" type.

one thing to note: the carrier shims had to be rearranged in order to get the ring and pinion to mate correctly. on one side, there was a thick and thin shim, and on the other was only a thin (actually three different sizes). the left side had to be switched with the right side in order for them to mesh and be able to get the bearing caps on. this is my first differential rebuild/teardown, so i dont know exactly how much play is acceptable, but after swapping the gears, the amount of play seemed very small, perfectly acceptable to me. i painted the gear to check mating surface contact, and there was a good amount of smear. i guess the real test will be when it is sent down the quarter mile. the only snafoo (sp?) was that the bolts that hold the ring gear. on the 3.9 ring gear, it uses 10mm bolts, where the bolt holes that are in the LSD carrier and the 4.375 ring are 12mm. i used a bushing (12mm OD and 10mm ID) to take up the slack between the bolt and the hole. is there anything wrong with me doing this? so bad news for someone wanting to swap 4.375 gears into thier R200 open diff, cuz it wont fit. possibly because those gears came from a newer car, and used beefier hardware.

I was bored and decided to take apart the oil pump I took out of a 83 turbo-auto car, which supposedly has the high flow pump. auto-turbo pump on the left, N/A L28 pump on the right. you will notice that the cylinder is taller, that it does pump more oil per revolution of the inner impeller (if that is what you want to call it)

ok sounds good. I was actually trying to put the 3.9 onto the lsd carrier, the 4.375 is what came on the lsd. the ring gear looked too thick, and the pinion gear is actually bigger (10 tooth) than the 4.375 (8 tooth). thicker carrier flange (2 pieces of the lsd) + thicker ring gear + bigger pinion gear = too much? EDIT - Nevermind, I see that the entire carrier is offset to account for the two pieces of the LSD. pictorally, the two measured distances are the same. Thanks!

I have a 3.9 open diff (R200 out of a Z) and a 4.375 cLSD (R200 out of a skyline) and i am trying to put the 3.9 gears on the lsd center section. is this possible, because the 39 tooth ring (left side in the picture) is thicker than the 35 tooth ring on the LSD (right side). As you can see from the pic, the flange that the ring bolts to is a lot thicker because of the two halves of the lsd unit vs. the open carrier. so my question is this: is it possible to swap gears? or where can i get a lower gear ratio that might fit on the lsd (S13 or other)?

can anyone supply any info on these clutch disc's/plates such as dimensions and alloy/heat treat? I might make a run at producing some of these, and if there is an interest I could make a few more sets...

oil cap on? (ive never done that one before...)

i think that another added benefit to the A-arm design when compared to some of the other H-Arms (not all), is on-car adjustability. I have the earlier AZC rear control arms and while the toe is adjustable "on-car", the camber is not. getting the camber set is a pain, having to make a measurement, lift the car, take the "spindle bolt" out and adjust the heim joints, then lower the car and make another measurement.

I have wilwoods and ZG flares, 16x8 3.5" backspacing. dont know about if they will sit flush with the fenders cuz I have adjustable arms and camber plates, but *most* if not all 16" rims will fit over the wilwood calipers.

exactly, there are a lot of write-ups of how to do it and what not to do, etc...but if you dont have a way to get it cut/welded by either yourself or a shop then it would be pretty difficult. if you are sectioning the strut tubes to use shorter shock-inserts (for lower ride height) then you would want to read up on it.

not bolt on, but definitely worth it.

If they continued the slope of the hood down to the nose, I think it might give a better look, sorta like a "ZG" nose for the S130

would 265's be too wide to put on a 8" wide rim? centerline has a few lines of customizable styles, able to get your desired width and offset. I have 16x8 with 3.5" backspacing...so thats like around -13mm offset? they fit under the ZG's really nice, but i have camber plates and adjustable suspension arms so offset isnt as much of an issue depending on what brakes you have, would some lightweight 15" rims be out of the question?